@SeeMeGovan;

So reading thru this thread in noticing every one is talking about just the drivers side? Anything on the pass side axel? Especially considering that it was already noted that or want as very as stock part. Mine is clunking at the half shaft and need it replaced asap, but I'm afraid of that thin Axel snapping. Anybody?

Should be fine. Speedy 3 put 500 hp abuse to them. And seemed to hold up fine. I have yet to install. Probably get to it mid July lol

I decided to have my half shaft rebuilt locally instead for same price as aftermarket one :)

I've had these axles on the shelf for about a year now, as a "just in case". I recently found my driver side boot is torn, so looks like I will be doing this within the next few weeks.

For all the guys that have installed the driver side, what is the best method to allow access to the axle? Pull the whole strut assembly? Or can I unbolt the control arms from the subframe and that will give me enough access? Any input would be appreciated.

IIRC I just removed the hub and left the strut hanging. Just moved it out of the way. The C-clip has a tendency of binding, and can be a bitch to get out; I used a slide hammer and a modified CV axle puller from Autozone and it came out more easily. Still had to beat the shit out of it but at least the forces applied are in the correct direction.

Yes, I saw your earlier post about the slide hammer and will definitely be renting that sucker. I'd hate to remove the complete hub though. I would hate to tear the ball joint boot.

Wait...didn't remove the hub. Left it moved over to the side, supported by something so it wasn't at a severe angle. Memory is a bit fuzzy, sorry.

Haha, not a problem. Yea I've removed tons of axles on other cars, and I always just pull the strut and push the hub/control arm down and twist the hub out of the way. The problem is my bilstein struts are like bonded in my hubs and I really don't feel like pounding the crap out of them. Lol. I would rather unbolt the control arms from the back at the subframe if possible.

Use the scissor jack to pry it out; easy peasy. Brace it against the hub and the perch and crack away.

Since the Spec Stage2+ clutch wears out quite fast I'm thinking I should change the axles next time I will replace it (I chose to refurbish the OEM clutch to a specialized shop). So I ordered a set of these axles, let's see how this goes. the factory axles have about 171k kms on them (roughly 110k miles) and sometimes when I start moving the car they click even if the axle nuts are torqued properly.

How many miles are on yours?
I'm at roughly 65k on mine, with not a hint of slipping at 400whp (knocks on wood).

Mine has about 25k miles/40k kms on it. It doesn't slip or anything, but when I rebuilt the motor just a while ago it was like 50% worn. I'm not slipping it excessively but probably it doesn't like too much bumper to bumper traffic which I have to do quite a lot.

Hello All. My passenger side cv axle has the inside boot torn, and has started to click.

I thought maybe just the inside half of the axle could be replaced, so I went to the Dealership to find out that only the d/s can be ordered in halves, the p/s is only available as one unit, and for $478. The service manager was a little horrified when he saw the price, and that the price for just the boots were $110 and $70. I guess there is a specific groove (or something?) on the oem boot that other versions don't have?


So...my question for everyone is, what are the part numbers/suppliers that will work for our cars? I've found some DriveTech ones on Amazon.com. I think the DriveTech part # for the p/s is MZ2302? I think MZ8149 is the one for the n/a 3 and 5.

MazdaSpeed 3 07-09 2.3L M/T Turbo D/S & P/S Front Cv Half Shaft MZ2313 MZ2302 | MacAutoParts
This is the pair of cv axles, supposedly for speed3s, though the photo/part number doesn't seem right once cross referenced.

Looking at the difference between MZ2302 and MZ8149 on amazon, there is a 7 lb difference in shipping weight, though the length on the MZ8149 is way wrong in that listing, so that's not too helpful...

Thanks in advance everyone.

Did you read the thread?

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I did. Have I missed something?

Maybe not, I'm on Tapatalk. But I thought that the axles were on eBay.

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The link to the axles is on the first page. So you missed something...

That's what I was thinking.

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I saw the link, just not the part #. I found it though, MZ2302 and MZ2313 from DriveTech on that Ebay link. FYI Amazon has them individually for those interested.

I finally received my set of axles today. I will install them in about one month when I'll also replace the clutch (Spec Stage2+ wears out a bit too fast in city driving).

Sorry for the bump. Is the axle still holding up well?

well.. my car has been down for 3 months.. so, technically... yes lol.

Lolz. Ok. Well, I take it they held your 500 just fine until it went down? I know you mentioned launch practice, did you run slicks on them at all? Burnouts?

Also, check things in the next day or two, and may be pm'ing you about those spacers.

It's held 500hp for a few thousand miles. I run nt05s, and they're basically slicks. I don't launch or burn out much, kind of a waste of rubber at 500hp fwd unless at a track, which still isn't much.

I took the car down to go twinscroll. Up nowish. still no issues with the axle.
And go put batteries in that damn patriot I sent you!!!


tapatalkin

Fair enough. Thanks for the info.

I'll get that parrot up and running. Maybe grab a video for ya!

Makes me want to break axles. $169 for both front MS6 axles that are not junk is crazy.

Just to note:

Bought and swapped driver's side DTA axle this weekend and the Axle nut is 36mm for the DTA. The stock axle nut size is OEM 35mm on the Mazdaspeed 6 (which is an odd size in itself). Luckily. I have done enough axles in my lifetime that I also had a 36mm 1/2" socket. Slightly different than a true hex/6/8 point axle nut socket, but work fine.

Build quality seems great so far (all of about 50 miles lol)!

Little bump. In need of a new front passenger axle, anyone with a 6 get these yet?

Also did we ever make any headway on getting rear axles?

The drive shaft shop makes 2 different sets of rear axles for the 6. Different hp ratings, can't remember what the exact hp number is

I was under the impression they only make one kind. Also, $400 per axle isn't really worth it to me if I can get a pair of new ones for $180. The rears aren't as weak as people make them out to be.

You are right. They offered 2 different sets a couple years ago now they are only offering one 500hp set.

Are these OEM or aftermarket new rear axles?? If so, point in the direction of $180 OEM axles please!

Did you even read the thread? LOL

:thinking:

Ofcourse I didn't...............that's why I bought and installed a set already............


Please go back and properly read what I quoted. The way Mazdazilla made it seem was that he could get new axles for 180 a piece, hence my question.

It's almost as if you didn't bother to read the string of text yourself :wall:

I guess I just figured it was common sense he's referring to the DTA axles.

Point is the fronts are $180 not the rears which he does not offer on ebay which is what @RalliartRsX; was saying...

I said if. As in, it would be awesome IF DTA offered rear axles for $180/pair. They do for the fronts, don't see why they wouldn't be able to for the rear.

They way you said "if" sounded like you were saying "im not going to pay $400 since I can get then for $180."
Anyways someone message the guy and tell him we want rears. IDK if/when I will need then but would be nice to know they were available. I think I am starting to develop some play somewhere in my drivetrain that I can feel when I engage the clutch sometimes.

I told him a year ago. He said if there is enough need, he will. So call or message them.