Does anyone have any updates on the axles?

I am due for a replacement and am leaning towards this option. Drivers side needs replacement but I am thinking about just doing both at the same time.

What do you mean, updates? What kind of updates?

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How are they holding up to the abuse? earlier in the thread a lot of people had bought and planning to install but did not hear to much back.

I thought we all knew that they're working fine. As far as I know.

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Well, my driver side tore a boot somewhere. I can't see where, but I see fresh grease flung all inside my wheel well. Pretty annoyed, but at least it wasn't expensive. Should be good for a couple years still.

On a DTA axle? After how many miles?

My driver's side has a torn boot at 75k miles, and dealership said they can't get new OEM, only remanufactured, for $450....

Maybe about 10k.

Man... That kinda sucks. So I can pay 1/4 the price and maybe get 1/7 the use of it...

Does anyone know who stocks OEM axles? And maybe has them for less than $450 (and for a reman, at that)? The dealer I go through is usually great, I'm surprised they are saying they can't even get new ones anymore :grumble:

Mine lasted over 60k miles and is still fine. I'd bet 99% of them are. They look sturdier than OEM.

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I'm ordering some this week. Both of my axles are shot. Bad. Very bad. We will see how they hold up to some "light and mellow driving"


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How do you know the axles are shot? I checked mine and the boots are fine, however the passenger axle seems to have a lot of play. Can't tell if it is the bearing mount of the axle. The dealer says it is ok, buy I am not sure. It seems to have a lot of play.

It's fine, unless the boot is torn. There should be lots of play in a CV axle.

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Boot torn. Grease everywhere. Has been that way for a year or so. They both click very loudly now.


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Alright fuggit I'm gonna order a set. My passenger side looks fine so far but both for $140 vs $100 for one is worth it for backup.

Do you guys all replace the transmission seal when you swap out the axle? Is it required? Seems even more of a pain in the ass...

I didn't, and never had any problems. But some people have. Just depends how they look.

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Cool thanks man, I'll try to get away with it unless it looks obviously worn/damaged. Thanks for all the useful info

Sorry for double posting kinda...

I'm sure all cases are different but... Once a boot tears (mine looks like it JUST tore, the grease looks fresh), what kind of time frame typically before it starts clicking? Or miles whatever. Money is tight, my wife's car is having more serious issues take precedence, just wondering how long I might safely put it off..

Also, do they always start making noise? Has anyone had an oem one just snap?

It would only snap at the strip with slicks. Not sure how long you have, or what kinds of problems you'll have putting it off. I would think it will be fine to wait a few thousand miles.

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We're about to add another Pu to the list of DTA axles. Ordered the pair off of eBay based solely on this thread. Normally I'd skip the cheap part for risk of catastrophic fail at the track, but these are holding up for people throwing a lot more torque at them.

My d/s CV boot popped a hole and threw grease everywhere. I'd ignore it until it clicks, but that's a sure-fail at a track day tech inspection.
If the d/s axle and my unrelated caliper replacement go unusually smoothly and I have time I'll also do the passenger side for shits and giggles. Otherwise that one waits until I have nothing else to replace (or someone wants to buy it).

I ordered some today as well. They will be tested in a 560hp+ 5858 car


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Yeah, I figure if a few 400 and 500 hp cars can't fuck them up, there's nothing I'm going to do at the track to break them. Especially when the other options were $800/pair from Edge or $1000 for OEM.

DTA replacement done. It went disturbingly well. Runs great after my 10 minute test drive. The only issue I see will be in getting it back out if it fails. The inner joint on the OEM axle is locked in (aka, not just the boot). The DTA is clearly just the boot holding it together. The OEM I could just pull the entire assembly to pop it out of the tranny. The DTA will require a pry bar or proper tool.

5/14 is the next track day, so hopefully I'm not reporting a catastrophic failure on the 15th...

You've probably already installed them, but I would definitely recommend replacing that seal. I replaced my axles and after about 500 miles that seal began to leak. It's like $10 or so from Mazda and it saves you having to pull the axle out again which I've decided is one of my least favorite things to do.

Maybe I just got lucky, with all the times I removed my axles I never needed to replace the seals. But you're right, probably not a bad idea.

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Same here. I didnt have to replace the seal.

@Bingo; Do you have the part number for the seal? I will err on the side of caution and pick both sides up before I install. Thanks for the heads up

Yes sir. F003-27-238C.

Got my DTA axles delivered today.. Right off the bat I have a concern. So, moving the actual CV joints around, the side that goes into the trans rotates very smoothly, but the side that attaches to the hub does not. There is a moderate level of resistance and a very slight grindy feeling (like stirring a stick in a bucket of marbles)... Did anyone move these around before installation that can tell me if this is normal? Every CV I've ever handled has moved very smoothly, or they were bad and had play and clicked.

My driver's side is like this to some degree. Keep in mind the inner and outer joints are of two different designs like with all CV axles. I'm not worried about it personally. I'd rather it be tight than loose, that's for sure.

I beat on mine all last weekend at the dragon. Was really the first test for them. They did fine.

I attempted to install my new DTA driver's side axle today and things did not go well.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...501_144953.jpg

I started putting the axle into the trans, but it didn't want to go in for some reason, so I pulled on it a little to dislodge it from the transmission and the inner joint just fell apart. When I put the axle down to quickly grab a crowbar to dislodge it from the trans, it was literally at a 90 degree angle to the trans. No way I'm gonna be able to get this thing back together, feels like something is stuck on the axle still and something is preventing it from going back into the joint correctly, maybe the bearings are loose in there. I would pull the boot off to fix it myself, but this is hardly my responsibility. Clearly the lock ring was installed incorrectly or is missing altogether.

Meanwhile the Mazda axles, you can literally remove them by yanking on them in my experience, not that this is recommended...

The thread starter mentioned that they weren't locked joints like oem and were held together by the boot...


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Really? Mind showing me where?

sure scroll about 4 inches up to post #141 .... my bad tapa talk made it look like the original post for some reason.

Been running these for about 3mo with alot of launching on low power and flat foot shifting on stock suspension (for idea of boots tearing for those low life guys) no probs.

Ive had oem ms6 axle CVs come apart by yanking to hard. Have been able to put back together. Ive also had hard times getting axles to reset in trans but eventually got them in. If the lock ring was missing it would just seat and not stay in. Idk if it can be imstalled incorrectly. I assume its just stiff. Why I use whole knuckle to slam in.

OEM axles aren't locked together either. I just swapped in the DTA on my driver side today, was having some difficulty with clearance for the slide hammer to get the old one out, so I cut the inboard boot and pulled the axle apart very easily. The inboard boot seemed to be the only thing actually holding that side of the axle together.

The install went fairly smooth other than the clearance for the slide hammer and getting the control arm reattached at the bottom of the hub after the install.

These guys are right down the road from me. I might have to pick up a pair just in case.

I've still yet to have an issue with the driver side one I replaced. I do not launch though. And if I do it's lower range rpm because 500hp doesnt mix well with a fwd launch.

tapatalkin

I did end up figuring out how to put my DTA axle inner joint back together and now it is installed on the car. Zero issues so far. I just hate the way it pops out when you don't have the strut on the hub and you have to push it back together. I can't imagine that's good for the boot. I wish they had mimicked the OEM design where it locks in place.

Can anyone confirm if the DTA axles are really that much smaller than the oem axles?

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