I replaced both because why not and me and my mechanic noticed the passenger side had a little side to side when mounted onto the joint connection that's bolted to the block that the passenger outer axle connected to but we didn't see if the OEM passenger axle (was still in good condition) had any give like the DTA passenger axle. So far 3mo of plenty of abuse on low power and still holding strong.

So did your DTA axles looked smaller than the oem units aswell?

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I thought they looked thicker.

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Mine were smaller.

We will see how they hold up to 570hp launches on drag radials this weekend

:)


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O rly??

Good luck sir!

Never been to the track. So don't expect anything but embarrassment lol.


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What radials?

Just some nt555 drag radials


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Well I shot DTA an email about ms6 rear axles. We'll see what they say.

I can't confirm the passenger side, but the driver side was identical. Here's a side-by-side.
The axle held up for track day #1 with no issues. I'm going to try to re-build the OEM so I have a backup (and for shits and giggles).

As John found out, the only issue noted so far is that the inner joint is only held together by the boot. I take care when installing so you don't have that joint fall apart.

[IMG]http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/a...psqyghzju0.jpg[/IMG]

Yeah, you literally need to bungee cord or strap the hub to the LCA while putting the strut and everything back together, just an FYI. The inner joint comes apart super easily.

Like ChaunceyM I have had zero issues with mine so far otherwise. When I had mine side-by-side, they were identical length.

I guess I should clarify. My passenger side was smaller.


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Get it guuurrrllll

Was the oem inner joint only held together by the boot?

Probably because these axles are cheap as fuck.

No, the OEM inner joint is held together quiet firmly. I just yanked on the axle itself to pop it out of the tranny.
I've never done an axle swap before, but from what I've read/heard, that is not always the case. Often they are only held together by the boot as there is not supposed to be any strain applied in that direction. Only to get it out of the tranny.

I had them on the k04. You'll still spin the hell out of em.

Pass side does not like a dead hook launchhttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...0f9b3c72e0.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...8efff922af.jpg


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Is that passenger side alot smaller in diameter than the oem 865ms3?

Yup


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I was on sellers eBay store and noticed that they now have a driver side axle listed specifically for Gen2's but it's almost $40 more. Any of the Pu's that installed the drivers side are you having issues? I wonder what could possibly make it $40 more...

I have a torn boot and a bad wheel bearing on the drivers side so I figured I'd replace this when I do the wheel bearing.

@daafisch; you can just call them up and ask. They've been very helpful and informative the few times I've called them.

Maybe, I sent them a message on eBay and they just told me "the techs said it deserved a different listing"

Make sure you get the DTA MZ 2313 driver side axle and the DTA MZ 2302 for the passenger side.

I was sent a DTA MZ 2301 which is for a Mazda 3 not the speed3.

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This is bullshit.
Also what would like to know what the difference is. The gen1 and gen2 axles should be exactly the same no?

I'm sure they are, but they needed a way to charge more. From the listings I saw, the "Gen2" axles were sold as singles and the same price as a pair of "Gen1" axles. Which is why I have a brand new DTA passenger side axle sitting in a box in the garage.

I did the same thing. Bought the pair and now have a passenger side sitting in the box.

I would buy someones pass axle for the gen 1

I noticed that too, but I spent the extra $40 and it fit fine on my 13' PU. Sorry a little late on the response.

I'm in need of a passenger side axel as well.

Seems like they're sold in pairs, and the passenger axel isn't available on it's own. There are some vendors that claim to be selling the ms3 passenger axel, but say it also fits the regular 3 :dunno:
I already purchased the drivers axel on it's own last year when the boot started leaking.

Just put a driver's side on. We'll see how it handles the track.

Any update on this axel?

I thrashed on it 3 track days (11 twenty minute sessions) last month (March) and its holding up fine. It does rust faster than the OEM but who really cares?

3 more track days planned later this month (April).

Performed fine again. They seem to be legit.

Update - 15 track days (over fifty 20 minute sessions) and going strong. 8 more track days this year - knock on wood.

If it does go I may try the one on Rock Auto (SURTRACK/TRAKMOTIVE MZ8171) - even cheaper!

Good to see that most people's DTA axles are still holding up. I plan on purchasing the pair for my 2012, not going to spend the $40 extra for the Gen 2 version if it's the exact same thing.

Go VIP - there's a pair in the FS section.

I found out how many licks to the center of the tootsie roll pop;

19 track days (over seventy 20 minute sessions) and the inner boot ripped and sprayed grease everywhere. It still got me home 60 miles away with minimal noise.

I ordered this one from Rock Auto (SURTRACK/TRAKMOTIVE MZ8171) to replace it. We shall see how it holds up.

My turn! Haha. If the pu axel for 118 isn't any thicker than the set for 140 I'll be buying the set for my pu. I have my clicky clicky clicky when turning left and after I put a tire with more meat on it i def noticed it got louder. Thankfully the speed isn't my daily and i can park.

Before i buy tho any of you want to sell your dta pass on your shelf?

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I emailed the axelstore and they told me the passenger RH 2010 to 2013 is half an inch longer then the one in the set for 140.

Can a gen 2 guy confirm this is a lie?

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