ACT Street Clutch Install... need help
 

The mechanic installing my ACT street clutch has everything assembled but has run into a problem. The clutch is engaging when the pedal is almost against the floor, and when the pedal is pushed back in, the clutch doesn't disengage. The mechanic is calling ACT tech service to see if they can help.

Does this sound like a slave cylinder problem? I've read through several threads on the ACT clutch install, and I'm not sure if a leaking slave creates this type of problem.

Also, in one thread, someone mentioned that there's a proportioning valve that can be adjusted, apparently to adjust the clutch engagement height. I'm waiting for a PM reply to find out where this valve is located.

I'd appreaciate any help.

It sounds like a hydraulic pressure issue. We went into troubleshooting it here, starting around post 10: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ve-died-64303/.

If its the slave, its an easy fix. Was it bled properly? Was it replaced? Here's another thread showing the troubleshooting of the slave cylinder operation: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...-issues-66068/

Post #9 in the second thread may be the most helpful, first.

Thanks for the help !

It turns out that after they bled it out, that fixed the problem !

Just ran across these two links today as I have the ACT HDDG6 kit installed and noticed I lost a lot of pedal travel and the release is just barely off the floor. Good stuff in these two how-to's, though it seems you got one of them taken care of...

Adjusting pedal travel and release points (15 minute job max)...

How-To: MS6 Clutch adjustment

...and bleeding the slave cylinder (the one you done, but others might find it useful)...

How bleed the MazdaSpeed 6 clutch slave cyclinder - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 / Mazda Atenza Forum

...note these are for the Speed 6 but I'm thinking it will be very similar if not identical and still useful for us. I'm going to do mine sometime today when I can squeeze it in during the playoffs. My really only minor complaint is the shortened clutch travel overall and the near the floorboard release point. I don't know why the tech changed it to this or if the clutch kit did it itself and he just didn't adjust it but it seems fairly straightforward. But leave it to me to screw something up. lol

p.s. out of curiosity what brake/clutch fluid did you use? I don't know what my guy used but was thinking of changing it out to the Valvoline Dot 3 & 4 Synthetic fluid as it has some pretty awesome specs for an over-the-counter readily available fluid.

Thanks for the links! I'll definately check out the pedal travel adjustment.

I'm going to change the fluid to Ford Manual Transaxle fluid # XT-M5-QS, plus the Friction Modifier (both sold at Ford dealer). I used them both before and they worked well. There's a sticky "Transmssion Cured" in the MS3 Engine, Transmission & Driveline section that discusses different trans oils.

After now putting on about 70 miles, the clutch seems to be releasing a bit higher. Maybe I'm just imagining it.

I need to re-install my TurbineTech front engine mount, and I'm sure I'll hear a lot my transmission noise.

The lighter weight fly wheel didn't change as much as I thought it would, but it's fine.

The amount of force that you need to apply to push in the clutch is already beginning to hurt my ankle... but that's because I'm an old man.

I agree on everything you just said. Lol. I had the Ford Honey in too and loved it. I also agree the flywheel didn't change it as much in terms of driveability as I thought it would. Also, I've heard others say the same thing, that the release point does rise over time. I've seen that mentioned a few times already. Also, it is really strong force clutch. I'm using a different set of leg muscles or something cause my leg was sore today. lol. Also probably cause I'm pushing 40 now.

Wait until you hit 46. Pretty soon I'll be using a cane to push down the clutch.