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| MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline Discussion of engine, tranny and drivelines. |
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![]() | | #1 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Las Vegas, NV
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__________________ 2008 Ms3 Black Mica R.I.P. March 2008 - March 2016. MODS: HTP 3" intake, CX Racing FMIC with TR8 core, BNR S3, AP V3, Kozmic EGR delete, Matt Damond OCC, JBR short shift plate with bushings, HIDS, CP-E injector seals, TIG, 1 step colder plugs, Grimspeed EBCS, CS RMM, JBR passenger MM, motor craft tranny fluid, Autotech Internals Current: 08.5 Ms3 cwp GT: Built block (sp63 4032 pistons, eagle h beams, CA625+ rod bolts/head studs, arp main studs, key'd crank, supertech 55lb valve springs, bsd delete, Block/pistons/rings/bearings WPC treated), HTP 4" intake, bnr S5 turbo (when it comes out), HTP hotside under route pipes, TR8 core, custom made cold pipes, ST intake mani, TIG, CP-E downpipe, CNT CBE, autotech hpfp, AP V3, grimmspeed ebcs, GA v3, TWM short shift assembly, JBR short shift plate, HFS-4 Meth kit, HTP front mount custom meth tank, damond motor mount trilogy, damond 3 port pcv plate, dual damond catch cans (one vented), step colder plugs, corksport injector seals, GFB bov, 51r battery, Bilstein B8 shocks, OZ ultralegga rims, custom oem clutch with Kevlar, Gen 2 trans. 2003 Mazdaspeed protégé (spicy orange); pope E manifold and DP, injen cai, PoS fmic kit, Twisted motion gt2871 turbo, aem fic-6. |
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![]() Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Westchester, IL
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I do not know the part number. Why are you going with ARP over OEM?
__________________ 2013 MS3 Black Mica SLUGGISH RUGGISH BONE SLUNTWORKS SPEEDSHOP |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I just assume its better to go with a stronger bolt since its all apart anyways
__________________ 2008 Ms3 Black Mica R.I.P. March 2008 - March 2016. MODS: HTP 3" intake, CX Racing FMIC with TR8 core, BNR S3, AP V3, Kozmic EGR delete, Matt Damond OCC, JBR short shift plate with bushings, HIDS, CP-E injector seals, TIG, 1 step colder plugs, Grimspeed EBCS, CS RMM, JBR passenger MM, motor craft tranny fluid, Autotech Internals Current: 08.5 Ms3 cwp GT: Built block (sp63 4032 pistons, eagle h beams, CA625+ rod bolts/head studs, arp main studs, key'd crank, supertech 55lb valve springs, bsd delete, Block/pistons/rings/bearings WPC treated), HTP 4" intake, bnr S5 turbo (when it comes out), HTP hotside under route pipes, TR8 core, custom made cold pipes, ST intake mani, TIG, CP-E downpipe, CNT CBE, autotech hpfp, AP V3, grimmspeed ebcs, GA v3, TWM short shift assembly, JBR short shift plate, HFS-4 Meth kit, HTP front mount custom meth tank, damond motor mount trilogy, damond 3 port pcv plate, dual damond catch cans (one vented), step colder plugs, corksport injector seals, GFB bov, 51r battery, Bilstein B8 shocks, OZ ultralegga rims, custom oem clutch with Kevlar, Gen 2 trans. 2003 Mazdaspeed protégé (spicy orange); pope E manifold and DP, injen cai, PoS fmic kit, Twisted motion gt2871 turbo, aem fic-6. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score How do you know ARP is stronger? Is that just an assumption because it's an aftermarket part, therefore must be "better"? There's nothing wrong with an OEM bolt. In fact there's no reason not to go OEM
__________________ Blue Pu. "Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you." |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I used ARP for most of my build but still used the OEM crank and cam bolts. I just assumed the friction washers and bolts were all designed to work together. If you were keying or pinning things then the friction washer concern goes out the window.
__________________ 2009 MGM MS3 - / HTP 3"/ COBB AP, FMIC, RMM, & DP / AT Internals / Manley Rods & Pistons / ARP studs & bolts / Koyorad radiator / DM OCCs / ACT Clutch / Bilstein B16 / CS Camber Plates, Camber Arms, & Seals / JBR .125 RSB, BSD, 51R Battery Box & Raider's AD / StopTech Brakes |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I agree with the majority here. The ARP one is nice but not necessary.
__________________ I was given the option to edit this. Not sure if it worked or not. |
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