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 Old 08-25-2016, 01:16 PM   #1
 
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Default ARP's crank bolt?

Been digging around and I want to use an ARP crank bolt, trying to find the exact one for our motor, and the only thing I've found in old posts is part number: 251-2501 but they weren't 100% sure, has anyone bought one and know the correct part number for it?
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 Old 08-25-2016, 01:58 PM   #2
 
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I do not know the part number.

Why are you going with ARP over OEM?
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 Old 08-25-2016, 04:09 PM   #3
 
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I just assume its better to go with a stronger bolt since its all apart anyways
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08.5 Ms3 cwp GT: Built block (sp63 4032 pistons, eagle h beams, CA625+ rod bolts/head studs, arp main studs, key'd crank, supertech 55lb valve springs, bsd delete, Block/pistons/rings/bearings WPC treated), HTP 4" intake, bnr S5 turbo (when it comes out), HTP hotside under route pipes, TR8 core, custom made cold pipes, ST intake mani, TIG, CP-E downpipe, CNT CBE, autotech hpfp, AP V3, grimmspeed ebcs, GA v3, TWM short shift assembly, JBR short shift plate, HFS-4 Meth kit, HTP front mount custom meth tank, damond motor mount trilogy, damond 3 port pcv plate, dual damond catch cans (one vented), step colder plugs, corksport injector seals, GFB bov, 51r battery, Bilstein B8 shocks, OZ ultralegga rims, custom oem clutch with Kevlar, Gen 2 trans.

2003 Mazdaspeed protégé (spicy orange); pope E manifold and DP, injen cai, PoS fmic kit, Twisted motion gt2871 turbo, aem fic-6.
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 Old 08-31-2016, 02:06 AM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by HaXiR View Post
I just assume its better to go with a stronger bolt since its all apart anyways
I'm sure ARP would be fine but I dont think anyone has found any problems with the stock ones as long as you buy new and you know that will be the right one... If it aint broke why change it
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 Old 08-31-2016, 05:13 AM   #5
 
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How do you know ARP is stronger? Is that just an assumption because it's an aftermarket part, therefore must be "better"?

There's nothing wrong with an OEM bolt. In fact there's no reason not to go OEM
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 Old 08-31-2016, 08:21 AM   #6
 
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I used ARP for most of my build but still used the OEM crank and cam bolts. I just assumed the friction washers and bolts were all designed to work together. If you were keying or pinning things then the friction washer concern goes out the window.
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 Old 09-02-2016, 01:27 PM   #7
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I agree with the majority here. The ARP one is nice but not necessary.
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