Bad GT3076R, smoked bearings/oil starvation
 

SO my turbo shit the bed last night due to oil starvation(I dont wish to go into specifics right now) but the bearings are fucked it wont build boost and makes sounds, grinding and bad sounds.


As far as I know NORMAL bearings the good ones are completely sealed all the way around, I have no idea what a Turbo bearing looks like but I imagine its something close to the very high grade bearings using in performance roller skates or something completely sealed But I could be wrong.

anyways do you think the turbo is fucking up my oil and will cause me issues with my rod/main bearings or cam caps or anything like this ? oil contamination ? my turbo smells like burnt oil the kind of smell you get when oil gets on the exhaust manifold and burns off not the smell from the car actually burning it.

but when i take off oil cap on the valve cover and smell, the air inside crank smells normal oil with some heavy fuel smell mixed in but nothing like BURNT engine oil or anything spectacular. So the question is can I get away with putting around with my fail turbo that is trying its best to spin still .... but is fucked.

When I left wal mart for getting oil to put in the car and I got home the smell grew stronger so I know the inside of turbo is screaming for help and skorn

Is there a safe way to stop the turbo wheels from spinning at all ? Can I lock it down with something with it installed on car to prevent wheel from moving at all ? LAWL turbo delete mod

at the very least ill do an oil change right now before I leave anywhere again, and I can inspect for metal chips and contamination the oil only had 1400 miles on it.

Well I think blocking the turbo is a bad idea as to where is the exhaust gases going to go? Everything else.....idk. You don't have another car to drive for now? Maybe borrow a friends or relatives car till you get a new CHRA?

no not block the turbo, lock the wheel to prevent further damage

Keep the housing but take out the fan? Would be my best guess. I don't see how you lock it without it fucking up even more.

best bet: get on craigslist and find a late 90s/early 00's Honda to get around with until you have the cash for a rebuild. The CHRA rebuild from ATP is only like $700.

block the turbo???? not sure how you do this? The main thing that you are really worried about it the oil that passes through the turbo. This is where the smoke will be coming from from a blown turbo. The only thing that you can do is block the oil feed line and let the turbo seize itself up. This is going to be a very loud process with the turbo rattling around like that.

I really dont suggest that you drive with it like that at all unless it is to get you home in an emergency!!!! not to drive everyday. The problem with this every day is due to the turbo destroying itself you could have metal shaving and small parts being thrown around through the I/C pipes or back up through the manifold to the motor..

Another suggestion if you are doing this for an everyday purpose is take turbo off and take it to a welding place and put a small tack weld on the turbine wheel to the turbine housing so that the turbo will now move at all this way no parts can fly around. This suggestion is if your money is really looking bad.

Again i suggest that if possible you DONT drive the car at all with the turbo blown but if this is all you are left with this use these other options.. Good luck...

Call D&w turbo over in NY i believe and they have a 3076 CHRA for less than 700 FYI... Also if you already have a garrett turbo then i think garret has program to get a cheaper CHRA of the same kind because you already have one...

Garrett CHRA Exchange Program, GT35R - Honda-Tech here is the thread that i found this out from and it is true.

thanks for the input guys, i have it parked now I just drove it home at like 1700 rpm or less the whole way to prevent turbo from really reapin havok, after i put more oil in it just to test the waters a bit I pushed it a bit and it went to 5 pounds but i def know the turbo is fucked now, I am guessing the turbo is the last thing to get oil over everything else and my bottom end should be ok it looks like i was close to over 2.5 qts low on oil almost 3 ? i gotta look at the jug i just emptied half of....

I think its already mostly completely destroyed i dont even hear it spin at idle anymore and it barely gets it to 0 vacuum from 20-23inhg

and I confirmed no boost leaks of any kind or vacuum leaks the fuel trims are fucking perfect it was like -1.5 ltft at idle so its not a ridiculous leak, usually when its a leak I can hear the turbo still working and hear the leak itself make noise.

EDIT: I wanted a GTX3582R anyway, I might part out this turbo or sell it as parts at the very least the exhaust housing is worth something t3/vband .83 ar

oh nice $4-500 is even better.

Who sells the SS Oil feed lines with built in restrictor pills ?

If you want you can get the turbine housing honed to fit the 3582 turbo wheel FYI to save a couple of bucks.. then you can get the GTX for about 1500 i believe..

Thanks for stopping in guys, I will be working on a replacement =)

ATP can give you the right -4 line to bolt into the block and just send you the correct restrictor for the turbo.

but I'm not confident your bearings are toast because of too much oil. That would usually kill seals, not fry your bearings.

Sounds like yours is a starvation issue dude. Something got blocked up, or your oil drain line is too long or kinked causing a backup issue.

I was only attributing needing a restrictor pill for my OIL LOSS issue which lead to my starvation and smoked bearings, I am thinking ahead for the new turbo.

I implemented a REALLY extravagant PCV setup thinking I was losing oil in my pcv system and or venturi but I still losing oil and it dont seem to be burning it past the rings it must be dissapearing into downpipe, I will know when I look in turbine housing.
@chimmike;

Garrett ball bearing replacement program. $500 for brand new CHRA

Contact ATP directly, and mention the replacement program, they will give you shipping information, you send them your fucked up CHRA, then they send you brand new one for the above mentioned price.

this is the biggest 3076 they offer as this was the one that i had on my car.. It has a 60mm compressor wheel and all the others have a 56mm wheel..

https://www.dwperformance.com/Pages/...n=700177-5013S

They are an official garrett dealer so they can honor that program as well if you so choose them.

good shit thanks guys

very appreciated leg work !

I will see if either will alow a sidegrade to 35R or gtx35r

Short answer NO already tried that the deal is only for the same CHRA as i was told...

I thought the gtx/hta 3076's were the biggest 3076s compressor wheel wise.

As for oil loss.........are you sure it was from blowby past the turbo oil seals?

You'd have spun a rod bearing because of low oil before starving the turbo......turbo doesn't use very much oil at all. Something else is your problem.

then its oil contamination, or foreign objects.....

No the gtx is smaller slightly but its lighter due to a billet wheel so it will flow better than mine..

GT3076 spec CHRA
Turbochargers, Garrett GT CHRA Ball Bearing, GT3076R - MTQ Sonic - Sonic Performance

Garrett GTX3076R Turbocharger

This one has a 54mm inducer..

Forced Performance Turbochargers: FP HTA GT3076R Ball Bearing Turbocharger

right. And a restrictor would exaggerate that problem.

So find out why the oil is either contaminated or has foreign objects.

do you run a magnetic oil drain plug? What oil weight/filter?

What sort of catch can setup do you have? And how much boost and how many miles on that turbo?

I am pretty positive I already know what the contamination is from

I took material from block at pcv plate because my plate is flat and seals the top chamber of the block so to add more ports to my plate See attached picture. I masked ALL the holes before cutting and used paper towels everywhere to block debri inlet of turbo, outlet, all intake ports on head, both the big holes in pcv cavity in block i had it really tightly packed and i spent alot of time doing sow but with Point of view in Drive way I neglected to plug dipstick hole... and i JUST put a FRESH oil change with 0 miles on it literally never driven

I noticed after I had used brake cleaner to Spray off all the Aluminum shards and shit and then I even used air compressor to clean it all up after spraying and was working my way down the face of the block and I saw the dipstick hole unplugged and full of fucking shit .... and im like FAIL!!!. i Sprayed a hole can of brake cleaner into the pan and drained the oil and sprayed another can through it all ways i could and used air to spray it out and let it sit and dry out inside awhile and a good long while later i put fresh oil in and drove it fine for 1500 miles, I was just about to change oil again.

IN hindsight I wish I took off oilpan completely and wish I did third oil change within 100-200 miles or even less So please spare me that suggestion and grief I am already kicking myself for it. I was confident it was not going to be an issue and that i had cleaned it all out with my massive amounts of spray and 6 fresh qts of oil simply draining would clear it out then more spray after that but hey lesson learned.

Its all basically aluminum DUST in the oil and I hope the clearances in normal rod and main bearings are enough to have tolerated this issue better than sealed turbo bearings

OK my PCV Setup

IM -> Check Valve -> Smaller catch can(will replace as soon as i can) to right of K and N Filter -> Big Black hose going thru IM runners and connecting to top left PCV plate port

Top Right PCV Fitting Goes direct to Venturi in exhaust.

Bottom Fitting Goes to very very bottom of bigger catchcan and serves as a Drain to crankecase and I have a restrictor pill in this Line to prevent massive unwanted flow thru that direction.

BOTH VC Fittings with ported baffle plates go Direct to Big catch can Upper Right, then Two more Fittings come out of TOP of this can and into My Turbo inlet/intake and the inside of the Greddy Can I turned into swiss cheese 7 port can(only using 5; 2 are plugged) has the upper half filled with Stainless Steel industrial restaurant grade Scrubbies and they do not Frey off or anything like that very strong shit wont rust.

One of the lines going from Greddy CC to Inlet i had to downstep to match smaller tap in the pipe, but I plan on tapping 2 more 1/2 NPT and putting a total of 3 5/8 hoses direct from CC to Inlet for maximum venting. If i have to, I at least was 2 full 5/8

EDIT: Turbo has 20-24k miles on it ran at 24PSI pretty much the entire time at least 80%

Castrol gtx 5w-30 oil and spin on mazda filter

No I dont have magnetic plug, however it would not have picked up my aluminum dust.

heres the work I put in to Kill said turbo lol

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...-tampa-145025/

ha I would change your oil one last time after all of those runs.