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-   MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline (http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f10/)
-   -   Best SRI Available? (http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f10/best-sri-available-22835/)

jbarbaresi 03-06-2009 10:45 PM

Best SRI Available?
 
Hey guys I'm new to the Mazda and MS3 community. I'm looking to do some basic bolt ons in the near future and I'm looking for some advice. I've been looking through the threads and the only SRI I've really heard mention of is the COBB. Does anyone else have a short ram on the market or are we limited to that? For those of you who have the COBB, how do you like it and what are your impressions? Thanks for the advice.

Lvis 03-06-2009 11:39 PM

cp-e has a good sri also

wassup61 03-07-2009 01:48 AM

Both Cobb and CP-E have excellent products with Cobb having more units sold overall. They both do the same thing and both have roughly the same price range. I prefer the Cobb to the CP-E simply because of cost and velocity stack integrated into the MAF housing so smooth incoming airflow past the MAF.

-Jeff at PG

TRU-BOOST 03-07-2009 02:38 AM

The corksport piece gets my vote. For a few bucks more than the competitions sri, you get a sri AND inlet pipe. Its a full length system. If that were available when i was looking, i would have it. Check protege garage, they have it.

jbarbaresi 03-07-2009 06:48 AM

thanks for your input. i had some warranty issues on my old car because i had a catback, intake, suspension and a couple other mods. i've also been reading about how the ms3's spend a lot of time in for repairs. anyone had any issues like with intake installed? i know about the magnusson-moss act and how they have to prove your aftermarket part caused the issue, but try telling that to a dealership...

DaleNixon 03-07-2009 07:51 AM

Swap back to stock for dealer visits?

What sort of repairs do you foresee in your future?

jbarbaresi 03-07-2009 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaleNixon (Post 174315)
Swap back to stock for dealer visits?

What sort of repairs do you foresee in your future?

well, i'm hoping no repairs but just judging off of some of the things i've read in the forums these cars tend to be in the shop a lot for various issues. like i said i've modded before but this is my first turbo application and i plan on keeping thIS car till it doesn't run any more. i'm just debating on whether to wait till i'm closer to my warranty expiring or not, right now i only have 200mi on the car and don't know if it would be wise to start with the bolt ons before allowing some of the inevitable issues to identify themselves first so the dealers can't chalk it up to "an intake system", which we all know has no adverse effects on an engine. as far as swapping out for dealer visits, i guess that always an option as long as i stick with the bolt ons but once the mods start they don't usually stop, so i'm more thinking down the road when it comes to a fmic, bpv, suspension, and even dp to some extent is not the easiest to swap in and out without easy access to lifts and such.

ms3077 03-07-2009 10:29 AM

^ You make an excellent point. Personally, I'd wait until my car had at least 10k miles of hard driving on it. If no issues pop up after that I would go ahead with the SRI and only take the car in to the dealership for "warranty issues". I would be a little hesitate about taking my car in with MODS for oil changes and what have yous because they "TECHS, etc" might just take note of your MODS which could potentially cause problems for you down the road. I hear places like Tire Kingdom have service plans for pretty much any car, so you could take it to a place like that for general maintenance and keep the receipts. And like I said, if something fucks up just return it to stock for the dealership for warranty repairs.

P.S. I've only had experience with the Cobb SRI and loved it!

DaleNixon 03-07-2009 11:09 AM

TMIC, intake, inlet, bpv should be a joke to swap back if you needed repairs. I'm waiting on FMIC and tuning solutions until my warranty runs out or I pay the car off... whichever comes first!

AndyMS3 03-07-2009 11:13 AM

+1 for CorkSport full length intake. I really noticed my throttle response improve and gas mileage went up slightly.

Hypnotized 03-11-2009 04:08 PM

I also recomend the corksport. You cant beat what you get for the price.

jbarbaresi 03-11-2009 04:44 PM

sorry guys, i appreciate all your suggestions but i decided to go with the cp-e nano. feel free to either lock this thread or keep it open for future discussion on the topic. thanks again.

soul.survivor 03-11-2009 07:13 PM

good choice, you should get the inlet too though.

jbarbaresi 03-11-2009 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soul.survivor (Post 177630)
good choice, you should get the inlet too though.

i plan on it, just need to wait for them to produce another batch and get the couplers all together.

mordxp 03-23-2009 08:46 AM

cpe rocks!!

killa cam 03-23-2009 09:19 AM

Thank you for getting the cp-e nano! I just want to correct a little misinformation here...


Quote:

Originally Posted by wassup61 (Post 174243)
I prefer the Cobb to the CP-E simply because of cost and velocity stack integrated into the MAF housing so smooth incoming airflow past the MAF.

The cp-e nano has a built in velcoity stack as well. Only difference is that it is built into the filter, whereas cobbs is built into the housing. No difference...

jbarbaresi 03-23-2009 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by killa cam (Post 185428)
Thank you for getting the cp-e nano! I just want to correct a little misinformation here...

The cp-e nano has a built in velcoity stack as well. Only difference is that it is built into the filter, whereas cobbs is built into the housing. No difference...

+1 i noticed this as well when I was installing my nano. thanks for the products!

soul.survivor 03-27-2009 04:46 PM

The nano is best. My LTFTs are -2 to 0 at idle and cruise, +5 at WOT. Some guys with Cobb's intake have crazy high LTFTs.

jbarbaresi 03-27-2009 05:35 PM

hey, kind of off topic but i installed my nano about a week ago and now i notice my windshield wiper fluid doesn't spray any longer, front or rear. could that be related to the install/battery disconnect or are they not related? i checked to make sure the fluid was topped off too. only 450 miles on the car. thanks.

TRU-BOOST 03-27-2009 06:03 PM

Fuel trims dont mean shit. It simply shows what percentage of fuel correction the ecu is making based off of what the MAF says it "should" need. Being close to zero means there is little to no correction needed. But even with crazy high LTFT's it doesnt do a damn thing to effect the way the car runs. It just says the ecu is compensating for airflow that is not identicle to the stock flow. You could have LTFT of 100% and the car will drive just as good as one with 0. Thats the whole idea behind fuel trims. Its the ecu's ability to adjust to change in air flow. Its the STFT that you dont want far off. Sometimes they will be if you reset the ecu. After some miles the STFT will settle and the LTFT become the new "base" map. Dont let somethin like LTFT be the deciding factor on an intake. Hell i can make my LTFT sit anywhere between 3 and 35% depending on what position i tighten the MAF sensor in the pipe, and how the MAF tube is clocked in relation to the rest of the pipes. The car will run the same.... It doesnt mean shit


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