Blown Clutch
 

well the old girl at 40k lost her clutch. I would appreciate advice on a source of a how to for clutch replacement.

Also I will be going to a lighten flywheel and all new parts here. Any advice on best clutch manufacturer other than OEM? Anyone one here have a good guy to go to for best price. Yea I know ACT sucks

Many Thanks

How the hell did you blow it at 40k? I am at 50k and have done more 1/4 mile runs than I care to admit including one where I glazed the clutch really bad. Still holds like day one.

From everything i have read you are better off going with the stock clutch again than any of the aftermarket offerings.

fuck someone type @ Tech/Sales @ EM with the correct reference. or send him a PM OP.

^+1
Mine failed from defect at 28k

Contact stefan.Either the eagle motorsport or clutchmasters kits will do. Hes give top notch customer service

Well I am on my 4th set of tires as well will be getting my 5th set in a month or so. I guess I just am hard on this stuff. Mine just wore out I guess. 3rd gear roll on produces a lot of slip and i do a lot of 3rd gear roll ons. I am going to drop the coin so if we got a guy that we do business with then I will do the deed....if stefan is the man then he is the man

what is stefan contact information

i will point him towards this thread OP

PM OP with offerings. But symptoms of how your clutch works now and why you think its shot would ultimately help the forum considering you started a thread about it. It will help others diagnose their cars later on down the road as a reference.

Fidanza flywheel is tasty, but it chatters. I've been running it with stock clutch plate and pressure plate for ~10k miles. No, it doesn't affect driveability.

Thats a useless post^ We own speed 6 not Mazda6

How hard can it be to get the driver-side axle off. Well insane. Had to build a special tool. And of course other stuff just keeps getting in the way here. Some day I will get the clutch out. Or I will sell the car for scrap metal:censored:

i know a buddy of mine who is selling a brand new out of the box ACT clutch kit with fly wheel for 500 if you want me to get you in contact with him.

No I think I have all the parts at this point. Just gotzzzs to get the MF out

Drop the subframe, I did it with out dropping the steering rack.

You will need to get the axles off the hub, and easier to get the passenger axle off.

I spent 4 hours trying to get the drivers side off, and still didn't get it out. 1 hour to get the subframe off.

Using the tool I built I now have the driver-side axle off......nice. Almost have it out. Not sure if the sub-frame needs to be dropped...will let you know

Well It Is Out
 

It is as I thought. The clutch is not worn out it is instead suffering from insufficient clamping pressure. When it let go it glazed both the flywheel and pressure plate, Neither the pressure plate or the flywheel show any signs of wear. Putting in a clutch without upping the clamping pressure will only insure this happens often:grumpy:

Eh dont feel bad I blew my first clutch at 25k. downshifted to second on the highway on accident >.<

Whole thing split in half. I was going 80. If you under stock power Id recommend stock clutch cuz they actually hold out really well. Me and my old foreman (fully bolted speed 3) used stock clutches in both our cars. Hes worked for mazda for 16 years so I trusted his advice =P

OP...
 

...you're going to resurface that flywheel, right?

Nice tool btw (lol).

^ No need. He is installing a Fidanza and new clutch kit.

Im going to disagree with you. The OEM clutch material is very very conservative as far as Organic material is concerned. It contains a very low metal content and as you can see their is none left on yours and you can also see the clutch disc itself has practically reached the limits of the pucks. Their are occasions where the pp will fail of course and allow the disc material to just spin and spin heating up and not having enough clamp force to hold your disc to the flywheel. Your flywheel and pp show more signs of overheating than I have seen in a very long time. From my standpoint looks like your pp failed SAC mechanism failed. One reason I had the CM non-SAC high clamp load pp developed. For guys with high spec cars. We cant take the risc of SAC failing.

inches
 

I have now clean all of it up....The inside of the clutch actually delaminated ( the 2 inch ring of the clutch both side nearest to the hub) . This was done with a third gear roll on. I cleaned up the pressure plate and it looks fine....no more than a couple thousandths of wear. Flywheel the same. No the clamping pressure got marginal as the clutch wore. I will mic the new and old clutch and post results. in inches

.293 old .338 new

The clamp load of the pp increases with wear so if you feel as if the clamp load got marginal or worse than that confirms my original suspicions that the pp failed you.

More details why the subframe removal makes it easyer, and more info on the custom tool.

Great pictures btw!

pictures for all
 

I built the car for 40-120 roll ons. I do not drag this car. Here are some pics of the old clutch

The pucks are what you should be measuring. Their is actually quite a bit of the puck still their as I can see on the top of the surface of the first picture. But picture two and three depict that the pucks wore differently from the ID surface and the OD surface. One cause of a clutch disc looking like that would be your pedal travel. You may want to check that when installing the new kit just to eliminate that as being a cause.

Can you snap a pic looking at the top of the pp so I can see where the springs are positioned.

I will do that

Here is a few pics. Let me know it I got what you want

Yeah thats what I was looking for.

and.....and.........and

Install your new clutch and enjoy :)

I will do that my friend. Have a great weekend. I will do a little write up anyone wants one.

Taking the sub-frame is easy.....eight bolts makes things easier....am working on a write up with pictures

This man diserves VIP. The tool alone was pure class.

i just used pry bars to get the axles out of my six. and i didnt see it possible to get the trans out without dropping the subframe.

Soooo
 

Now you being the person that reads this thread you are smarter than most. So you buy yourself a new flywheel and clutch and pressure plate and thinks that you got it made. BUT being smarter than the average person you test fit the pressure late and flywheel with out that new clutch cause you have been to the prom and not got any. And lo and behold they will not go together....you think the dowel pens are off you thinks that 850.00 dollars was for nothing........but being so smart......you discover what has happen. The flywheel inside diameter is a little smaller than the stock one....so you get out the grinder and fix that ford pressure plate (you grind off those little tabs that are hitting) and Zoom ZOOM you is ready to go.

That should not have been an issue for you. Fidanzas have been sold with SPEC clutches and OEM clutches left and right and no issues until now.....

was not a clutch issue....was a pressure plate issue

Clutch = Disc and pp.

So like I said it is not something that you should have had a problem with as people have run the hell out of Fidanza flywheels on stock pp. So I dont understand why this is the only car that had to do that........

Could have been one that slipped through the cracks.