Which to buy first...?
 

I'd like to purchase a test pipe and a motor mount, but they're both fairly pricey, so I'm looking to just buy one for now. I've installed a Mazdaspeed CAI and corksport downpipe. Should I buy a test pipe next (within the next year, I'm likely going to get aftermarket exhaust, too) or a motor mount? Also, do you guys think SURE is a better mount than street unit's?

Thanks!

For an RMM you want to go with CP-E for sure. I would reccomend SU test pipe as well. Love em both :bigok:

SURE RMM with track bushing.

Both..... Duh.

You can probably find both on here used for $100 or less for each. You're already VIP, put it to good use.

if you think the tp and rmm are pricey then this vehicle is not for you

First of all do you have a way to log your fuel pressure? With the mods you have you may have an issue with that later on down the road with the mods you are going to do. Not everyone has the problem but without a way to monitor it there's no way to know if you need a new pump or internals. You'll have to search about that topic because I still don't fully understand everything about that yet. I have the CPE RMM 75 duro and like it a lot it makes it a different car and its fairly cheap. A test pipe is just a pipe so its not imperative that you pay the most money for one.

If this vehicle wasn't for me, I wouldn't own one. ATM, it's pricey.

Okay thanks. Have you heard anything about the new Juggernaut mount that SURE has come out with? I am not too familiar with the mounts on the speed 6 and what some of the benefits of the aftermarket ones are.

I just installed the SURE rear motor mount. I did this LONG after successfully running a catless dp/rp combo. I got almost 50,000 miles out of the stock mount. Unless you plan to drag race the car a lot, I personally think that the RMM mod can wait until later. And, BTW, SU no longer makes the mount most people here have found to be so good. When I tried to buy one recently they recommended the SURE, so I got the SURE mount from SU.

Any good rear motor mount will introduce a significant amount of NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) compared to the stock unit. I went with the softest one SURE makes, the one designed for street use, and it still rattles the contents of my glove box when the car is at idle. So, be warned. It does tighten up the drive train considerably. That's what it's supposed to do. I used to miss the 2-3 shift when flatshifting as the stock RMM got past 30,000 miles and it worsened with time. Other that that, it served me well. The new one is rock solid and I hit 2-3 shift 100% of the time, but it does have vibration and does contribute to an overall sense of harshness in the sound of the drive train. It is very elegant in design and very well constructed.

Now, regarding the test pipe. Is your downipipe catted, or are you using the testpipe for your sole cat? I'm running full catless dp/rp into the stock CBE. Stock CBE flows extremely well, up to the maximum limits of the stock K04 turbo, so don't spend money on the CBE unless you just want a different sound or plan to go big turbo later.

The test pipe will help you make some more power. But if you have a catless dp and add the test pipe you may find that you are flowing so well that you are maxing out the wastegate on the turbo. Once the flow exceeds the wide open flow rate of the wastegate, it has to spin the turbo more and more. That is boost creep and can be dangerous.

Make sure you can monitor boost to see if you are getting any creep. If so, you may need to either put the stock midpipe back on or add some restriction somewhere on the exhaust side.

As others said, you do need to know your fuel pressure under load. You need some way to monitor that, either with data logging, or at least real time read out under load in a higher gear to make sure you are not exceeding the limits of the fuel pump. My stock pump is holding up well, but many others have not.

Another point: Are you getting and droning boominess in the sound of your exhaust at around 2,500 rpm with your downpipe? With the catless dp/rp combo, I got really bad drone, but by actually ADDING a big 3 inch straight through reso in the middle of my test pipe, I eliminated the drone and lost no power in doing so. That reso may also be adding just enough resistance to exhaust flow to keep me below the maximum limits of the wastegate. No creep.

I have a Speed3 so I'm not too familiar with the Speed6. My suggestion for a cheap, easy mod would be the Jbarone Short Shift Plate and Shifter Bushings. Its 95 bucks shipped great quality and its a really big difference in the feel of the shifting. Just installed those and they are really nice. Get the Stage 2 kit with the Bushings. Its actually really easy to install I did the bushings myself and I'm far from a mechanic.

Oh, gee. OP has a 6? I wish he'd have put his mods in his sig or otherwise told us. I know nothing about the mounts for a 6. And also, the exhaust is much different on the 6. Many here seem to acknowledge that it will actually pick up some power with aftermarket CBE whereas the 3 does not.

We are in the subpart of the forum for Speed 3 engine, transmission and drivetrain posts.

why buy a test pipe?? just have a muffler shop make you one for like 60 bucks, seriously

Upgrade your fp first.

Dis nigga just wrote you a book.
I didn't read it all but god damn, you the man for putting that time in

Thank you for your detailed reply. I definitely learned some new things from this post haha. Anyway, I have the Corksport downpipe, which is not catted. So if I have too much flow and begin to "creep", is there potential of blowing the turbo? What if I ended up getting the test pipe and aftermarket 3" exhaust, will my turbo be doomed because the flow is to great? I also can't really tell if I'm getting the droning from my downpipe. The reason is because for some reason, my test pipe has been hitting the passenger side of the body of the car, so most of the time I'm hearing an annoying rattling sound caused by it. I talked to Corksport, and supposedly they're getting back to me sometime tonight. Many mechanics that I 've taken it to are saying it is a defective pipe. I am going to look into how to monitor my fuel pressure. Again, thanks for your reply.

Boost creep is likely to blow your motor if it gets out of hand. You need to make sure you start monitoring your car's vitals if you have DP intake and whatnot. Dashhawk will do it all for you.

Go to therpmstore.com rmm for $90

Will the COBB AP give me all of that info also?

If your going to start racing the car..i would consider buying a rear dif mount... just my 2cents

comon now, even I can do a google search for this.

COBB AP