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 Old 11-27-2010, 08:51 PM   #1
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Default bye bye old clutch

apparently my old turbo wasn't the only thing that looked like shit....

we did a clutch swap today (well i really didnt do shit actually) and dropped out the stocker with 78k miles and put in the act street disc, flywheel, pressure plate combo.....

first off.........HOLY MOTHER OF GOD.... fuck working on imports and dropping trannies.... big props to tony (roy's buddy) did a great job.

heres the carnage.... pics dont show enough detail to see all the high spots on the flywheel/ pressure plate and all the chewed up friction material on what was left on the disc...

needless to say it was down to the bone....


stocker pressure plate








flywheel with its high spots in the greyish blue spots



heres the actual clutch disc... u need to see during daylight to fully appreciate it lol









and finally heres the throwout bearing that sounded like a keychain when spun.... a leaky slave cylinder that i replaced with the revised version... and pilot bearing that was a motherfucker to pull out




as far as the new clutch... pedal is stiff, and has alot less travel but grabs hard and send power str8 through.... car feels so much better and puts it down hard now....

now i gotta break it in for a while and go run next saturday at the track
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 Old 11-27-2010, 08:58 PM   #2
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how long did the whole job take?
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 Old 11-27-2010, 09:02 PM   #3
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well..... from 11am til about 5pm ...so about 6hrs ..... if we had a lift and tranny jacks etc would have been plenty quicker....
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 Old 11-27-2010, 09:08 PM   #4
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Fawk Lenny that fucker was done!!

Tell me about this revised slave cylinder, is this a factory pc?

Is it possible to do this in my backyard, are you gonna do a how to?
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 Old 11-27-2010, 09:13 PM   #5
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from what i have been told.... the slave cylinder we have is prone to leaking once combined with a stiffer pressure plate .....

I forget the part number for the new one starts with B and ends with B.... and from what I was told that means it is a revised part. mine indeed leaked immediately... i got lucky and the dealership had a new one.

as far as can u do this in your backyard.... yeah... u need a couple of jacks... a couple of extra hands....(like 2 more guys) and a shit ton of time....and patience... alot of work!!!

and sorry but i am not doing a how to.... I would feel comfortable speaking on rebuilding an automatic transmission and its components.... but manuals are not my area.... although I paid attention to when it was being done today.... alot of work man....and that fucken tranny is hard to control on the way back up.
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 Old 11-27-2010, 09:17 PM   #6
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GOOD FUCKING SHIT
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 Old 11-27-2010, 09:17 PM   #7
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im so not used to drive on a clutch that grabs that im on the brink of stalling at every stop light haha... ill get used to it
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 Old 11-27-2010, 10:47 PM   #8
 
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Vicodin FTMFW!!!!
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 Old 11-27-2010, 11:03 PM   #9
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indeed roy....i took sleep meds and will have to do.

btw i put 50 miles today.... tomorrow i gotta go see friends in south oc so ill add another 80-90 miles.... fucken shit grabs!!

def worthwhile
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 Old 11-28-2010, 12:39 AM   #10
 
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how much you pay for the kit and where u order it from?
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 Old 11-28-2010, 12:51 AM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by SpeedSixxx View Post
how much you pay for the kit and where u order it from?
He got it from mark at streetunit...
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 Old 11-28-2010, 12:58 AM   #12
 
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BTW, we weighed the stock dual mass flywheel and it came in at 27 lbs... The ACT flywheel was 16.5 lbs - including the packaging cardboard and plastic wrap...

So 10.5 lbs of rotational mass removed...
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 Old 11-28-2010, 01:06 AM   #13
 
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I love the 6 puck sprung and im not going to lie I did stall it a few times at 1st but you get used to it and I feel like I can launch the car better
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 Old 11-28-2010, 08:00 AM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by ST lenny127 View Post
well..... from 11am til about 5pm ...so about 6hrs ..... if we had a lift and tranny jacks etc would have been plenty quicker....
Quicker, if you'd actually done something huh?
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 Old 11-28-2010, 08:51 AM   #15
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so this is the 6 puck spring lenny?
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 Old 11-28-2010, 09:59 AM   #16
 
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Hey Lenny,

I have a question for you, how were you able to hold down the flywheel to torque down the flywheel bolts?
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 Old 11-28-2010, 10:39 AM   #17
 
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 Old 11-28-2010, 10:43 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by superskaterxes View Post
so this is the 6 puck spring lenny?
no..street disc.... they share all the same parts as the 6 puck except the disc....

Originally Posted by 11cruzito11 View Post
Hey Lenny,

I have a question for you, how were you able to hold down the flywheel to torque down the flywheel bolts?
air gun niggah ....compressed air is a wonderful thing lol

Originally Posted by predapio View Post
Quicker, if you'd actually done something huh?
we will NEVER find out
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Last edited by rodrigo; 11-28-2010 at 10:43 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 11-28-2010, 10:55 AM   #19
 
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[QUOTE=ST lenny127;632307]air gun niggah ....compressed air is a wonderful thing lol

I thought that you had to torque down exactly what the manual stated, did you use new flywheel bolts? I heard you can't re-use them.
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 Old 11-28-2010, 11:05 AM   #20
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we did torque them.... to 78 ratatattatatatattatatatattatatattatatatatattatatat attatatat 's

might have been 79 ......
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 Old 11-28-2010, 12:09 PM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by 11cruzito11 View Post
Hey Lenny,

I have a question for you, how were you able to hold down the flywheel to torque down the flywheel bolts?
We used a large prybar to wedge the teeth of the flywheel against the ground.. So when torquing the bolts, the flywheel teeth engaged with the prybar and kept the assembly from rotating
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 Old 11-28-2010, 12:25 PM   #22
 
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How did you know you needed a clutch ?? Was it slipping ?
Looks good man !! Have fun !
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 Old 11-28-2010, 01:40 PM   #23
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well when u launch hard with drag radials and 3rd gear zooms up in rpm but mph stays the same.... that is a hint....
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 Old 11-28-2010, 02:55 PM   #24
 
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Originally Posted by hnda etr View Post
We used a large prybar to wedge the teeth of the flywheel against the ground.. So when torquing the bolts, the flywheel teeth engaged with the prybar and kept the assembly from rotating
Thanks for the tip, today im planning on swapping my street disk to a 6 puck.
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 Old 11-30-2010, 07:44 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by ST lenny127 View Post
from what i have been told.... the slave cylinder we have is prone to leaking once combined with a stiffer pressure plate .....

I forget the part number for the new one starts with B and ends with B.... and from what I was told that means it is a revised part. mine indeed leaked immediately... i got lucky and the dealership had a new one.

as far as can u do this in your backyard.... yeah... u need a couple of jacks... a couple of extra hands....(like 2 more guys) and a shit ton of time....and patience... alot of work!!!

and sorry but i am not doing a how to.... I would feel comfortable speaking on rebuilding an automatic transmission and its components.... but manuals are not my area.... although I paid attention to when it was being done today.... alot of work man....and that fucken tranny is hard to control on the way back up.
FYI I have about 500 miles on my new ACT Street kit and OEM slave with no leaks so far. Keeping my fingers crossed, I didn't know about the issue with it.
Man Lenny your shit was d-o-n-e!
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Originally Posted by 11cruzito11 View Post
Hey Lenny,

I have a question for you, how were you able to hold down the flywheel to torque down the flywheel bolts?
put a wrench on the crank bolt on other side of engine.. use that to bind it down enough to torque the bolts down....
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 Old 12-01-2010, 01:25 PM   #27
 
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Originally Posted by Dano2010 View Post
FYI I have about 500 miles on my new ACT Street kit and OEM slave with no leaks so far. Keeping my fingers crossed, I didn't know about the issue with it.
Man Lenny your shit was d-o-n-e!
Lenny's slave leaked as soon as we disconnected it from the transmission... even before the ACT clutch was installed...

Fluid came pouring out of the orange dust boot...

Originally Posted by 11cruzito11 View Post
Thanks for the tip, today im planning on swapping my street disk to a 6 puck.
Status?
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 Old 12-01-2010, 02:05 PM   #28
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lol so much for torquing bolts haha. i never torque anything either cause im a impact nut too but on something important like this i would def be torquing it correctly.
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 Old 12-01-2010, 02:11 PM   #29
 
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Wow it does look razor think...What is the thickness of a "new" clutch material?
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 Old 12-01-2010, 02:42 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by hnda etr View Post
Lenny's slave leaked as soon as we disconnected it from the transmission... even before the ACT clutch was installed...

Fluid came pouring out of the orange dust boot...

shit Lenny is having a week of fail here...slave...rad hose....shifting.....he needs to get it out of the way before the BT install week after next!
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 Old 12-01-2010, 02:57 PM   #31
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 Old 12-01-2010, 03:03 PM   #32
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no worries here mate!
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 Old 12-01-2010, 09:56 PM   #33
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How much was the slave? Can you get the exact part #?

I need to plan my clutch job in the next few weeks, and I am a do it once kind of guy...
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 Old 12-01-2010, 10:01 PM   #34
 
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Originally Posted by hnda etr View Post
Status?
I have the tranny up now with the new 6-puck clutch, what a PITA haha. Damn driver axle is a bitch to take out. I have a nice trick I can share with people on how to hold the flywheel to torque down the bolts the 111 ft.lbs required.

Worked on it on Sunday for about 1.5 hours, 1.5 hours again on Monday and dropped tranny.

Today torqued down flywheel and put tranny up. Tomorrow I should assemble everything back.
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 Old 12-01-2010, 10:23 PM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by cld12pk2go View Post
How much was the slave? Can you get the exact part #?

I need to plan my clutch job in the next few weeks, and I am a do it once kind of guy...
Part number is B37F-41-920B

Cost is around $120 but you can get cheaper (~$99) through online Mazda parts or that other Mazda dealer that's on m3f...
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 Old 12-01-2010, 10:49 PM   #36
 
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gonna need this info.
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 Old 12-10-2010, 12:57 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by lenny127 View Post
from what i have been told.... the slave cylinder we have is prone to leaking once combined with a stiffer pressure plate .....

I forget the part number for the new one starts with B and ends with B.... and from what I was told that means it is a revised part. mine indeed leaked immediately... i got lucky and the dealership had a new one.

There's a one time seal inside the feeder nipple- the nipple that has the aluminum feed line coming from the master cylinder. It's pressure based. Once you disconnect that line from your slave cylinder you're shit out luck because it stretches when the line is pulled out.... the only option is to replace the slave cylinder.

Slave Cylinders don't just leak because of a new stiffer pressure plate.....just a fyi

EDIT: If you don't want to spend money buying a new slave cylinder don't disconnect it from the feeder line that's coming from the master cylinder. Plus, there's really no reason to remove it because you could move it out the way when pulling the tranny.
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 Old 12-10-2010, 01:08 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by 11cruzito11 View Post
I have the tranny up now with the new 6-puck clutch, what a PITA haha. Damn driver axle is a bitch to take out. I have a nice trick I can share with people on how to hold the flywheel to torque down the bolts the 111 ft.lbs required.

Worked on it on Sunday for about 1.5 hours, 1.5 hours again on Monday and dropped tranny.

Today torqued down flywheel and put tranny up. Tomorrow I should assemble everything back.
Share your trick man... don't just waive it around like that.... Is it the flat stock with two hole trick i mentioned to you a while back?
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 Old 12-10-2010, 06:14 PM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by trickytwelveinch View Post
There's a one time seal inside the feeder nipple- the nipple that has the aluminum feed line coming from the master cylinder. It's pressure based. Once you disconnect that line from your slave cylinder you're shit out luck because it stretches when the line is pulled out.... the only option is to replace the slave cylinder.

Slave Cylinders don't just leak because of a new stiffer pressure plate.....just a fyi

EDIT: If you don't want to spend money buying a new slave cylinder don't disconnect it from the feeder line that's coming from the master cylinder. Plus, there's really no reason to remove it because you could move it out the way when pulling the tranny.
Actually, it's a steel hard line, not aluminum - aluminum wouldn't be able to withstand the pressure.

Also, the seal that goes onto the fluid hardline (fits into the cylinder) is reusable. It's not a soft rubber that stretches out - it's a pretty firm rubber that you re-use. Buying a new slave cylinder wont help because that grommet is NOT included with a new slave cylinder you HAVE to reuse the one you have.

Also, the original part A version of the slave cylinders are prone to leaking - hence why Mazda now offers a countermeasure part with the "B" revision number.

And please explain to me how running a stiffer pressure plate, which requires more pressure from the slave cylinder piston to push it out, does NOT contribute to failure of the slave cylinder... After all, if it takes more pressure to push the clutch pedal down, it's logical that that increased pressure would contribute to increased wear and tear...

EDIT - I've done 2 slave cylinders now, so I have some experience with this...
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 Old 12-10-2010, 06:28 PM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
Share your trick man... don't just waive it around like that.... Is it the flat stock with two hole trick i mentioned to you a while back?
Is something like what "hnda etr" mentioned using a pry bar.

Let's see if I can explain it, damn I should of taking a picture of it.

Around the bell housing on the side close to the starter there is a slot that a guide goes into the tranny side. We used a 3/8 extension (like a 5inch one) and put it thru the hole in the guide so it would face forward. Then we used the pry bar to get a hold of the teeth on the flywheel and lean it to the 3/8 extension so it would grip the pry bar and stop the flywheel from moving.

Since the passenger mount is only holding the engine, i had one person holding the engine from moving sideways and another person holding the flywheel with the prybar while I torqued the bolts to the 111 ft.lbs.

Hopefully I explained it good, does someone know exactly what that "guide" is exactly called?

Last edited by 11cruzito11; 12-10-2010 at 06:30 PM. Reason: spelling
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