Cam friction washer has oil on it?

[Matrix311]

Mine was at least 160ftlb so it shouldn't slip I hope. Torque wrench was still clicking at 160ftlb

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[Nitr0EngiE]

I just found the thread where I did it two years ago I did 90 ft lb on oem bolt then about 120 degrees

I ran the shit out of it with 25 boost never slipped

[Tokay444]

Don't do anything to that crank bolt that isn't outlined in the manual.

[Nitr0EngiE]

Originally Posted by Matrix311 Mine was at least 160ftlb so it shouldn't slip I hope. Torque wrench was still clicking at 160ftlb Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

160 ain't shit I was at 90 degrees and my torque wrench just clicked 254 ft lb

I estimate my bolt is around 315 ft lb right now

Fuck the manual the only times it worked right for me is going over the spec. To each.his own but the manual is for stock power setups

You guys do what you want but I can't afford crank slip

The only difference this time between last is I used arp bolt instead of oem and I used arp lube instead of red loctite

[Tokay444]

Stretching that bolt farther than you're supposed to, can result in less clamping load.

[Nitr0EngiE]

Well honestly none here can tell me or you what the torque spec should be for the arp bolt anyways, the paper says 140 which is laughable

If the arp bolt is a complete piece of shit then we will find out because the oem bolt held up fine to just as much as what I just did and it's supposed to be 220k vs oem 145k

[phate]

Originally Posted by Nitr0EngiE Well honestly none here can tell me or you what the torque spec should be for the arp bolt anyways, the paper says 140 which is laughable If the arp bolt is a complete piece of shit then we will find out because the oem bolt held up fine to just as much as what I just did and it's supposed to be 220k vs oem 145k

I don't know how many times I've linked this for you, but, one more time:

Crank slip? maybe easy fix.

and

The most awaited build in MSF history

It seems like your conjecture of what is "better" than the Mazda procedures has gotten you into some trouble quite a few times with this engine. Why not just use what is proven to be good?

[Nitr0EngiE]

Originally Posted by phate I don't know how many times I've linked this for you, but, one more time: Crank slip? maybe easy fix. and The most awaited build in MSF history It seems like your conjecture of what is "better" than the Mazda procedures has gotten you into some trouble quite a few times with this engine. Why not just use what is proven to be good?

May I please inquire to which said failures of mine are due to not following the manual just curious.

And secondly there are several people who in those threads have gone over the torque and did something different successfully and Idid not see you give them shit for trying things different just because they are on the band wagon out gear heads

If it fails it's my fault none elses and I will own it

[dan7225]

Originally Posted by El_Diablo Uhh, no..... That would be a T-Bolt clamp.

Looked like a big band clamp for exhaust from the way it was zoomed in.

I really thought it was a good idea. It wasn't a joke.

[silvapain]

TTY bolts are meant to be loaded to their yield point; going higher reduces the clamping load.

http://web.mit.edu/course/3/3.11/www/modules/ss.pdf

[El_Diablo]

Originally Posted by dan7225 Looked like a big band clamp for exhaust from the way it was zoomed in. I really thought it was a good idea. It wasn't a joke.

An exhaust clamp wouldn't provide as much clamping force as a T-bolt clamp in this application.

[Matrix311]

Originally Posted by dan7225 exhaust clamp on TIP? nice, looks like that would work very well

Nope its a tbolt clamp. Htp provides to tbolt clamps for the install. It was a major pita to put this intake on let me tell ya.

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