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| MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline Discussion of engine, tranny and drivelines. |
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Good to know... I guess that's a strong argument for the new NiResist hotsides
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| Will fuck up ur day ![]() Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Parrish, FL
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The moment your car gets to normal temp, that exhaust manifold is so hot, it will evaporate any water in the fiberglass.......that moisture thing is a fucking old wives tale. the silicone spray doesn't last for shit at the temps we generate anyways, and makes the fiberglass wrap all shitty. want good wrap? Thermo-tec Copper or DEI titanium. Those two are the best.
__________________ 07 MS3 The original Genpoo Hater PTE 5862cea ball bearing, plus some built stuff. Turismo Vids - Store your car vids and pics here! Blog your builds too! Click here for great deals at The RPM Store! PM me for pricing! I hear that honkey at Protégé Garage is pretty decent too. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yea I have DEI titanium ready to go, just looking at all the options as I will be running tests on my ported manifold and can change around the setup of the wrap while im doing it. I suspect the ceramic companies advise against it because most people wont use the titanium wrap, the fiberglass garbage from pep boys is what theyre worried about I work with boiler controls, heat transfer is affected by deposits from water itself. The process of the water evaporating with a wrap opposed to without a wrap may be different as far as how many deposits are trapped. Sorry, I look at all the negatives to find the positive, im mainly asking because it helps my testing if I get a few options to play with
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For the record when I talk about spraying the wrap I'm talking about header paint, not silicone spray. The stuff I used: VHT High Temperature Flameproof Header Paint | Canadian Tire I used DEI titanium, sprayed with the VHT paint and everything (manifold, DP and RP) is holding up nicely 6 months later. Another thing to keep in mind: if the ceramic company says "Sure, go ahead and wrap your coated part, it'll probably be fine", and it goes to shit, they/their coating gets the blame. CYA.
__________________ 2008.5 CWP: GTX 3071//Rapebuilt EM//Relentless pnp IM//JBR 3.5" WP//TurboXS DP/RP//TR8C/Cobb FMIC//GFS bpv//JBR 88/70/70a//Eibach Pro Kit//Koni Yellows//JBR RSB//RX8's Awaiting Install: DO Stage 2//3 Bar MAP//CPe Safeseals Winter Beater: 96 GMC K1500 5 speed 4x4 Needed: Driver mod [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Last edited by BigRedSpecial; 11-13-2013 at 11:20 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I use the dei ti wrap its amazing, just don't ever try to remove it after you bake it in, it will fall apart |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score most wraps will fall apart after several heat cycles. That's just how it is.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Metal expands and contracts with heating cycles. The ceramic coating only have so much give to them. Repeated heating cooling can and will make cracks in a coating over an extended period. A manifold is hot enough to evaporate water yes but have you ever actually poured water on a mani while at operating temp? It doesn't evaporate off immediately. It sits and boils first. So if it is caught up in a fabric(the heat wrap) it would probably take even longer to boil/evaporate. The water can and will find its way into the cracks of the coating and will rust the exposed metal(remember parts are sandblasted to expose the metal before the coating is applied) Of coarse all this would happen over time not one day to the next, but it is very probable and far from an old wives tale. Fixed
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You didn't say whether the manifold / header was SS or mild steel, but in either case ceramic coating it will reduce under hood temps. Wrapping it as well would be even better. As for wraps and corrosion, obviously if its mild steel it is HIGHLY recommended you coat it before wrapping to reduce or eliminate corrosion. With SS you don't have such immediate corrosion issues. It doesn't matter whether the pipes actually get wet or not. Moisture will still make its way into the wrap / uncoated pipe via condensation..... As for VHT and like type coatings providing "ceramic coating" in a can for $10.00, you'd need a qualified CSI unit to find any ceramic in there. All of those materials are traditional silicone based high temp paints, I.E. BBQ paint...... If applied properly, which they rarely are, they will provide a nice finish but they will offer little to no thermal or corrosion protection..... | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hahaha I didn't apply it for thermal protection... I know better than that. All I use it for is a sealing agent to prevent the wrap from absorbing water and oil in particular. It also holds the wrap in place better IME. I don't doubt that it's nothing more than high temp paint, but that's exactly what I bought it for. It's no replacement for real ceramic (obviously), but everywhere I've applied it it has held up well. It is temperamental when it comes to prep though. It is nice to hear someone involved in ceramics support wrapping them though, thanks for the input.
__________________ 2008.5 CWP: GTX 3071//Rapebuilt EM//Relentless pnp IM//JBR 3.5" WP//TurboXS DP/RP//TR8C/Cobb FMIC//GFS bpv//JBR 88/70/70a//Eibach Pro Kit//Koni Yellows//JBR RSB//RX8's Awaiting Install: DO Stage 2//3 Bar MAP//CPe Safeseals Winter Beater: 96 GMC K1500 5 speed 4x4 Needed: Driver mod [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
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