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| MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline Discussion of engine, tranny and drivelines. |
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| Engineered Tuning ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada
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| Not Ranked : 0 score This is a must read for ANYONE in the turbo game. I own it and love that book. It's a bit technologically outdated now but the basic principles still apply and always will.
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Seems like there's a lot of forum myths about why these cars blow and I'm positive that alot of it comes from the owners not wanting to own up to abusive driving habits.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to 94jedi For This Useful Post: | MarkyMark (02-18-2009) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Grim;quote...don't even worry about blowing the motor,i beat my car hard like a redheaded step child and it has given me no problems.you are getting too paranoid man indeed....paranoia..been there and i said "FUCK IT" and kept the Speed...drive correctly/keep the car at a reasonable power level/ 300whp tops, IMO, keep the rpms in the power range 3-6000 rpms and all should be ok. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- quote ...Gong Show FWIW, I chatted with my local Mazda service manager yesterday. They have yet to see a MS3 come in with a blown motor. I know that doesn't mean a lot, but I think these are still VERY limited cases. i was at my Mazda dealer that installed all my mods...and shazaaaaaaam Gomer...no blown Speed3 engines there as well....a replaced smoking turbo on a couple of Speed6's and all in all the Speed3 has been a reliable car stock or slightly bolted////you want more power than 300 whp then built it like Y2 mentioned, or take some chances and blame no one but yourself if something happens, otherwise less is more with this car if you want to be on the safe side...and i decided that i have 3 years left on my engine warranty...and being this car may be a little tempermental..LOL i am choosing the safe path and keeping things in balance and power at a stock/bolted level till my warranty is up. The will see...
__________________ Current.. 2009 BMW 135i Twin Turbo, Sedonna Red Metallic, M Sport Pkg, Premium Pkg, Cold Weather Pkg with heated seats, Xenons,M Sport steering wheel, BMW Factory Sport Exhaust..300hp, 300 Tq.. in reality..320 hp 320 tq stock SOON: BMS JB3....tune, ICarbon rear diffuser, ....all under warranty... . Past/Sold...2007 MazdaSpeed3,CP-E TBE, CAI, Advan Rs Gunmetal, TWM STS with bushings TWM Desert Eagle shift knob,, Defi Amber boost gauge, HKS BOV with CP-E flange..also tried CP-E Nano SRI (MazdaSpeed CAI, Rota TQ Hyperblack, are FOR SALE 4 months old) |
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1. Lugging the engine at low RPMs when there isn't much oil flow results in poor lubrication under high stress on the bearings 2. A high amount of torque at low RPM can cause detonation, but this car pulls timing until after TDC (negative timing advance) for a reason when you spool up 3. The engine is moving so slowly that the rotating assembly is "hammered" on each power stroke due to low inertia of the assembly. You'd have to lug the engine pretty badly though. If you're thinking about all this as an issue, then you should not get off the gas immediately at high RPM - the tensile forces become great on the rods very quickly under high vacuum. Last edited by Lex; 02-18-2009 at 02:17 PM. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The thing with these motors is no one has blown up full throttle really, i dont think anyone has pushed the limits of the motor yet. whoosh had what, 386awhp on the mzr, and he never blew, neither did chris with his 35r, shit if whoosh had that motor in a speed 3 he would have dynoed over 400whp easy, while still on the stock block So until someone blows up because of to much power and not creep, load, or open closed loop or whatever other bullshit is in the mazda ecu, no one knows the limits of the stock motor |
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![]() When I started with this car, I was getting to 6th gear as quickly as possible no matter what speed I was cruising at. Now I cruise in 3rd up to 30 and 4th up to 40. I shift into 5th at 45 and don't touch 6th until I'm going at least 60.
__________________ Gay car #1: 2001 Miata (Gay White) Gay car #2: 2011 Mazda 2 (Gay Blue) | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score For once, some great knowledge in this thread. Car forums are great places to sensationalize and parrot urban legends. As I've mentioned in other threads, CAI hydolocking, underdrive pulleys, motors blowing constantly, pop rocks and Coke making your stomach explode, etc...date back decades. This isn't Jerry Springer. You figure just about everyone on this board has modded their car to some degree. A lot know WTF they're doing but there are some that don't. You're going to see a few busted motors and those people are going to be ALL over this board about it. Most run just fine. I've had many online chats with Corky as the BEGI folks are on the Miata forums quite a bit. He had convinced me to go turbo with my supercharged Miata. Very few people know as much about turbos as Corky. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Hmm nice way to throw in my face smart guy. JK it is very uncommon to blow your motor haha. Guess we can answer the question of this thread. hahahaha
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![]() | | #94 | ![]() |
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honestly i know what your saying but it sort of proves my point in that most of the motors that blew were due to lack of knowledge/or other error as creep etc | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score yep. 100% gonna blow up and kill 3 babies. you bought a mazda, not a well engineered car
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Here's another read. Before bashing the DISI MZR engine, take a look at what it took to take a 2.2 litre Ecotec to the different power levels. Also note that the engine blew stock at ~250crank hp when it was designed for 160 crank. This sounds about right as the upper level that you can take a stock motor - around 50-60% above rated power. This puts the MS3 stock motor at high risk anywhere above 400 crank hp if you're not being stupid about it. Considering 15% drivetrain loss, this makes the motor "safe" below 350whp. No these numbers are not exact, but they give you an idea. I wouldn't ride 350whp, I would keep it around 300-320whp for longevity and a great reliable fun ride - again if you're smart about it. Remember that wear in every form is accelerated as more heat and more force in placed on the assembly. No rod is meant to last for ever and no engine is meant to last for ever. Every material has a lifetime and a number of cycles it can go through before it yields. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score what about 350 tq? (this is probabbly a stupid question i know but wouldnt the tq reach 350 before the hp) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score HP is calculated from torque. It throws RPM in the mix. Our cars have higher torque numbers compared to hp. torque measures the real force applied to the components but hp establishes a relationship between how much torque you have at what RPM. If you have 350 ft lbs of torque at 7000 RPM you'd have 466 hp. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Maximum Boost = entry level knowledge to mod/build a turbo car. I read it. Twice. My background is chemical engineering, and I thought it was an excellent read. The bottom line is that modding turbo cars requires significant understanding of the basic principles or epic fuckups can rapidly result. Enjoy.
__________________ 08 MS3: ATP GTX3071 at 26PSI , AEM Dryflow 21-2147DK, CP-E 3.25'' MAF, CP-E Nviscid TIP, PG FMIC piping with Treadstone TR11 core, Cobb BPV, Ported IM, PG v1 manifold, CP-E catted DP, CNT CBE, KMD v2, Grimspeed EBCS, Alkycontrol Meth injection (M10 with 100% meth), E40 fuel, Cobb AP (ATR= WIN), ACT ZX4-HDSS, 3-Bar MAP, JBR RSB, and CP-E 60 Duro Engine Mount Set. (297.3WHP/366.9WTQ - on K04, 469.2WHP/420.7WTQ - on GTX3071) Last edited by cld12pk2go; 02-25-2009 at 05:34 PM. |
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