Clutch install

[Chimmike]

Swapping clutches/fw this weekend.

What should I look out for? Any tips/tricks?

Also, what size is the axle nut? Need to pick up a socket.

[Chimmike]

Nobody? Rly?

[MSFer87]

It's a grand time I ended up using my friends lift. As far as I remember it was something along the lines of this. So either get it on your lift of put her up on jack stands.
Remove wheels
Remove battery and battery tray (this should expose the trans mount)
Drain the trains fluid
Remove axles (this includes axles nuts believe it's a 22mm don't quote me on that rent the axle socket set from Advance Auto Zone) this includes breaking loose lower ball joints to separate it. Remove the bracket on the passenger side that connects the block to the downpipe this is how you remove the intermediate shaft on the passenger side.
Remove the intercooler and intake
Remove the wiring harness that runs along the trans. (This is a big PITA because of all the small bolts)
Remove the starter, and the slave cylinder (becareful not to damage the plastic piston in the slave cylinder upon removal)
Begin removing the trans housing bolts.
Remove the RMM
I then put a jack under the trans and jacked it up to the bottom of the case, and began removing the TMM
I will continue writing this later but my computer is going to die. Also refer to Rodrigos clutch install writeup.............

[Manny]

got new fw bolts? loctite the trans mount. I'd say removing the axles is the hardest part. Passenger is easy, driver side might be easier to take off once the trans is pulled off the motor.

[JLee1469]

@MATT DAMOND @silvapain @Ckmazdaspeed3

Safe to say their experts as they did 3 clutch takedown/installs in a week

[qtrmile beast]

No need to remove the passenger axle and the axle nut should be a 36mm...

[Chimmike]

Originally Posted by qtrmile beast No need to remove the passenger axle and the axle nut should be a 36mm...

36mm? On a MS3?

And no need to remove passenger axle for the clutch install? so just pull the trans with the axle still in? lol. I've never done that on other fwd clutch installs but eh, if it works.

Any tricks on breaking loose the lower ball joint portion? I'm planning on using my impact gun for that.

[MSFer87]

I removed the passenger axle. Then again I took the whole trans out so I don't see how you could do that. As far at the lower ball joint remove the pinch bolt, and get the proper sized fork for the lower ball joint. Or else you will tear the ball joint boints like my dumbass.

[greg08]

the axle nut is a 35mm. and i suggest using a 3/8 drive rachet with skinny 6 inch and 3 inch extensions for trans bell housing bolts. youll need to pry the steering linkage ball joints and such, and then impact the nuts off. because the bolts and nuts spin as one if you dont.. its an easy job. i just put my clutchmaster 6puck in by myself. PM me if you got any questions

[silvapain]

Leave the axle bolted to the knuckle and pull the while combo out as one. It's just the tie rod end, strut pinch bolt, and LCA ball joint bolt to pull then.


Tapadatass

[Chimmike]

ugh. Sounds like a trip to Napa for ball joint forks at lunch today then. 35mm ? goddamn.

@greg08 how did you pry the ball joints/what did you use?

[silvapain]

I don't use pickle forks for ball joints. They are prone to damaging boots. I use pitman arm pullers.

When you reassemble, be generous with the moly grease on the ball joints and strut bodies. That way it'll be easy to pull again in the future.

EDIT: using a pitman arm puller will only work of you do decide to pull the axles out of the knuckles. You can't put the puller in with the axle in place.

Tapadatass

[Ckmazdaspeed3]

The moly grease also got rid of some squeaking that I had.

.... We used super tall jack stands and jacked up one side, then the next, then the next side higher and then the last side higher. We also used a motorcycle jack stand to drop the tranny. I only mention this cuz u really want like three feet under there to work.

Other than that, the only pita was the suspension removal I thought. The rest is straight forward. Of course the tranny is tough and awkward to get in and out.

Oh yeah, and drop the subframe, it only takes fifteen minutes or so and makes tranny removal tons easier.

Different size pry bars and air tools are huge too.

[qtrmile beast]

Originally Posted by chimmike 36mm? On a MS3? And no need to remove passenger axle for the clutch install? so just pull the trans with the axle still in? lol. I've never done that on other fwd clutch installs but eh, if it works. Any tricks on breaking loose the lower ball joint portion? I'm planning on using my impact gun for that.

ok i was corrected on the axle nut size.. i am usually working on the speed and have only done about 4-5 speed3s and that was a while ago. But this is how i would do the install:

follow this part of what jdmoptiontune said:

Remove wheels
Remove battery and battery tray (this should expose the trans mount)
Drain the trains fluid
Remove axles (this includes axles nuts believe it's a 22mm don't quote me on that rent the axle socket set from Advance Auto Zone) this includes breaking loose lower ball joints to separate it. Remove the bracket on the passenger side that connects the block to the downpipe

Remove the intercooler and intake
Remove the wiring harness that runs along the trans. (This is a big PITA because of all the small bolts)
Remove the starter, and the slave cylinder (becareful not to damage the plastic piston in the slave cylinder upon removal)
Begin removing the trans housing bolts.
Remove the RMM
I then put a jack under the trans and jacked it up to the bottom of the case, and began removing the TMM

Now as far as HOW to get the tranny out with the passenger side axle(intermediate shaft) still attached is when you do what:

silvapain said:

Leave the axle bolted to the knuckle and pull the while combo out as one. It's just the tie rod end, strut pinch bolt, and LCA ball joint bolt to pull then.

Also i want to add you have undo the sway bar end link..

Once you have done that then you will enough room to slide the tranny toward the driverside of the car and you will have enough room to slide the off the intermediate shaft. If it is EASIER for you to remove the shaft then do so...i am not going to fight about it. But i tell you what i have pulled and reinstalled a speed3 tranny ON THE GROUND in about 4.5 hours.. so i THINK i know what i am doing...

[Ckmazdaspeed3]

So here are a few key photos:

first, our ghetto approach to the jack and rejack


Keep a Matt Damond around for help... He looks like a moron, but he is very smart and meticulous



removing the tranny with motorcycle jack



and to keep track of bolt placement and direction... which we (I) failed on the third time and put one in backwards and cracked the tranny



Probably didn't need all of this, but I am bored and want to use these photos.

[Chimmike]

Thanks for the tips guys.

Gotta order the axle sockets from NAPA. I'm just kinda worried about unbolting the balljoints.

[Chimmike]

either you guys are all smoking some shit, or ms3's of different years are different, but my 07 GT speed3 axle nuts are certainly NOT 35mm or 36mm. Smaller. bigger than 30mm, but fuckin smaller than 35mm.

WTF.

[socks]

I always thought it was 32.

I would remove the axle without removing the knuckle or the control arms... use a socket on an extension, and place it long ways between the trans housing and the balancer of the axle, and tap on it til you get the lock-ring out of groove.

I also didnt remove any of the power steering stuff.

good luck

[Chimmike]

hm......I can't picture what you're saying but I'll have to look at it.

So you never removed the knuckle? My whole idea was to loosen the knuckle enough to pull the axle out of it and the trans itself.

[Tomas]

Originally Posted by socks I always thought it was 32. I would remove the axle without removing the knuckle or the control arms... use a socket on an extension, and place it long ways between the trans housing and the balancer of the axle, and tap on it til you get the lock-ring out of groove. I also didnt remove any of the power steering stuff. good luck

^^^ This.
And I used a chisel and a hammer to separate the d side axle from the gear box. Insert chisel between box and CV joint and tap sideways till it comes loose.

Also lightly wirebrush DM flywheel if you are reusing.

[laxplayermjd]

the way i did my speed 6 was i dropped the whole subframe out. To not have to deal with tearing boots or pressing out the joints on the knuckle. I disconnected everything on the subframe side with the bushings. Ive always found this was easier except that you need to tighten all those bolts back up with the suspension loaded or your bushings with wear out quickly.

To get and axle out ive always just used a prybar between the trans and axle shaft. If it doesnt pop out give a slight tap on the axle with a hammer while prying.

I left my transfer case and passenger side axle attached.

Im pretty sure not having a transfer case will make it much easier for you.

Speed6 axle nut is 35mm, another most common size is 32mm

[Chimmike]

I'm just resigned to the fact now that NO install of any sort of complication will ever go smoothly for me on this car.
DS axle would NOT come out of the hub/knuckle. I hammered it enough to fucking flatten it out some, now I'ma have to bust out the air grinder and fucking grind it back down to get the axle nut over it.

Trans/motor are separated but I need to remove an IC pipe to move it all forward and pull the trans out after separating from the motor more. Then I can finally swap the clutch.

[silvapain]

When banging on a threaded rod, always put a nut on flush with the end. That will prevent the rod from mushrooming.


Tapadatass

[silvapain]

Also, I use a three-jaw puller to get axles off knuckles. The axle end has a dimple in the center for the puller to seat in.


Tapadatass

[qtrmile beast]

Originally Posted by socks I always thought it was 32. I would remove the axle without removing the knuckle or the control arms... good luck

how will you remove the axle without either disconnecting the subframe, knuckle, swaybar endlink or shock????

Originally Posted by chimmike I'm just resigned to the fact now that NO install of any sort of complication will ever go smoothly for me on this car. DS axle would NOT come out of the hub/knuckle. I hammered it enough to fucking flatten it out some, now I'ma have to bust out the air grinder and fucking grind it back down to get the axle nut over it. Trans/motor are separated but I need to remove an IC pipe to move it all forward and pull the trans out after separating from the motor more. Then I can finally swap the clutch.

Also you would want to not bang on it tooo much as the vibrations can cause the wheel bearing to fail!!!! so be careful also you can possibly use heat to get it loose as well..

[Chimmike]

Yeah, heat is a good idea, but at this point I have the axle out of the trans but still in the knuckle. Will finish separating today and swap on the new flywheel and clutch. I think realigning the whole shebang will be easier, but FML, things never go smoothly for me, lol.

[Macedawg]

Originally Posted by silvapain Also, I use a three-jaw puller to get axles off knuckles. The axle end has a dimple in the center for the puller to seat in. Tapadatass

thats how i've taken them off in the past

[Chimmike]

I'm not even sure how I'd get the axle out of the knuckle honestly, not sure how a puller would work in this case?

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by chimmike I'm not even sure how I'd get the axle out of the knuckle honestly, not sure how a puller would work in this case?

You clamp the jaws around the knuckle and align the bolt on the axle. Tightening the bolt will push the axle out.


Tapadatass

[socks]

i didnt have to use a puller, just tap it with a rubber mallet, and it will slowly slide it out. Then, turn the knuckle one way or the other, (if you are working on the drivers side, steer the steering wheel that way, and you can pull the axle out of it towards the front of the car.

[Chimmike]

Originally Posted by socks i didnt have to use a puller, just tap it with a rubber mallet, and it will slowly slide it out. Then, turn the knuckle one way or the other, (if you are working on the drivers side, steer the steering wheel that way, and you can pull the axle out of it towards the front of the car.

Mine didn't budge. It seems like it's welded in. Tried a rubber mallet, dead blow mallet, and finally a 3lb sledge, nothing.

[socks]

sounds like you'll have to use a puller. lol.

[qtrmile beast]

if you have the axle out of the tranny then i would now worry about the axle at this point. All you have to do is pull the control arm out of the way so that the axle will not get damaged and reinstall it once the tranny is back attached to the motor after the clutch install..

[Chimmike]

Trans is out, axles still in knuckles. Stock clutch and flywheel are out too.

[laxplayermjd]

normally i use a airhammer to get axles out if that doesnt work. put the nut on, have one person hold a ball peen hammer, have another swing the 5lb sledge until it breaks loose

[kmac]

Just took mine out last night after work . It was a lot less painless then I thought . Nothing have me a problem I had it out in about 45 min to an hour on the lift.

[Chimmike]

lift. bastard.

[Ckmazdaspeed3]

Just remembered a HUGE piece of advice. If you are using te manual cuz u haven't done this before, it is wrong in regards to which way you face the friction plate!!! At least the manual we used was (I can't remember if it was a gendone or genpu manual though.

[Chimmike]

I'm following ACT instructions, which only refer to FSM for FW bolt torque specs. Speaking of, I need to torque FW down, but couldn't hold it from spinning myself. lol.

[kmac]

Put a bolt on the ent block and rest a pry bar against it and put it between the teeth to keep it from spinning . I think the bolts r 111 to 118 ft/lbs.