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MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline Discussion of engine, tranny and drivelines. |
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() I've been searching the forums and been finding some information about whats going on with it. Been doing all the steps I've been reading but still can't figure this out. Awhile back my motor blew up a week after I paid the car off lol (figures right) so I replaced the motor from gearheads. While I was in there I replaced the clutch, flywheel with a light weight aluminum flywheel, slave cylinder. Long story short after getting everyrhing back together car starts right up no problems there. But it won't go into gear while it's running. While the car it's off it goes into gear with no problem. If I put the car in gear and try to start it the car jerks forward. I've bled the system a bunch of times and still the same issue. While under the car had a buddy press in the clutch and the fork moves but it doesn't look like it's moving enough. How much travle should the slave/fork move? Anyone run into this before? |
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After riding the clutch a few times, it allowed that green coating on the new flywheels surface to wear off and it's been perfect ever since. It might just be that green coating that needs to wear off.
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() So you just put the car in the street and tried starting the car in gear a couple times?? I have a findanza flywheel also. I was scared something was installed wrong. So after you did that it was ok? Mine won't go into any gear when the car is running. But goes in smooth with the car off |
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() Ok sl I tried starting the car in first gear to let it judder forward a bunch of time. It kicked over one time and car started taken off down the road ahaha. But anyway. I tried this a bunch of time and still having the same issue. Can't get it into gear with it running. But now if it's running and I try to put it in first gear it still won't go in but the car starts to slowly creep forward... any ideas? |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Did you install the clutch disk backwards? Is the slave cyl moving? You could have air in the lines. Was the hydraulic system opened up when you changed everything out?
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Once I got moving in 1st, as soon as I pushed the clutch pedal in to shift to 2nd or 3rd, it would judder, and pushing the shifter into the next gear would sometimes grind, as if the clutch was not fully disengaged. I had to shift hard a few times just to get home from the shop. If I were you I would try to get into 1st and slip the clutch a couple times to wear down that green coating that comes on the Fidanza flywheels. You say it shifts fine when your moving, but that getting it into 1st is an issue? Remember that the clearance between the clutch disc and flywheel is very small, so theoretically that green coating may cause the clutch disc to stay partly engaged until it fully wears off. I feel your angst, keep us updated ![]()
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() I can't get it into gear at all when it's running. When it's running and if I push it towards first gear (doesn't engage) it starts to move forward. But it's not fully engaged. You have any idea how much travle the slave is supposed to have? Mine moves about half an inch when compressed and released. I'm wondering the the throw out bearing isn't moving. Just going crazy with this car. It's been off the road for about a year. Saving up for parts to put everything. Took so long because I have 5 kids at home. So projects take a back burner. But now it's driving me crazy. And trying to figure this out. |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() I'll say it here too. If the clutch was installed per the manual, the disk is likely backwards.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Speed support vehicle. 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it) History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.) 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() Little update: bled the slave once again this time with a hand vacuum pump. Got a lot of air out the system. Went in the car and pumped up peddle.(car off) I noticed a weird noise. Almost a hissing noise when releasing the clutch peddle. Almost sounds like air being sucked in. Hard to tell by myself pumping it inside the car and can't really hear it under the hood where it's coming from. I THINK I may have a line leaking. Like a bad o ring or something. Hopefully tomorrow with a help from a buddy I can really see what's going on. Or if that noise is normal and I never noticed it before |
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Are you certain you installed the clutch disc correctly? It is marked "flywheel side". Before you do anything else ensure your clutch pedal is adjusted properly. There is a rod attached to the pedal that pushes into the master cylinder in the firewall. Check that it has a very slight amount of play before it depresses the rod into the master. There are how-to's on here. Just search. If you think you have a leak pull out the battery. The master is there under the brake booster on the firewall. Have a look at it and check for leaks. Also from inside the car as well. Another place to check is the rubber line from the frame rail to the hard line on the slave cylinder. Is the slave you put in an OEM unit?
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() Yeah I'm pretty sure everything is installed the right way. The speed 3 don't have an adjournment on the master. I think only the speed 6 does. I had a bleeder bottle on it last night and I was hearing a hissing coming from under the battery. When I get done work today I'm going to take it a part and disconnect the lines going t the master and check the orings. And yes OEM slave |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() I would be surprise if your problem is not air or a leak but i have heard about clutch pedal frame to break with the install of an heavy duty clutch....I run the heaviest ACT and didnt break the pedal after few years...But my slave went out on the first drive with the new clutch pressure plate...it is free to look at it to make sure the pedal rod get all the travel.
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() FWIW, my new Luk disk was not marked for flywheel side.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Speed support vehicle. 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it) History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.) 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() not sure but i think the disc center would grind against fw bolts if backwards....?
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() I agree. The springs face the pressure plate. Other wise it would hit the flywheel |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() I actually installed mine per the manual the first time. It fit fine. Fortunately I figured it out before I put the trans back on.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Speed support vehicle. 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it) History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.) 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Your first step is to check slave travel. There should be 1/2-5/8" travel. If not, it's a hydraulic issue. If you have that much travel, it's a clutch assembly issue.
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() Ok so I pulled the master cylinder out behind the clutch peddle.. is the rod supposed to have any kinds of tenting to it at all? ( unit is all plastic, not like the ms6 that has a metal rod) because the rod is very floppy. No gentian to it at all. If I press the rod in or pull it out I don't feel any pressure or suction. Anyone know if the cylinder rod is supposed to have any kind of tention?? |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Were you drunk when you typed this ^^? Are you saying the actuator rod from the clutch pedal into the master is made of plastic? I find that hard to believe, but ok. Yes, it should be hard to press in and have a little tension. There will be some freeplay/takeup that occurs before the master is actuated. Is that what you mean? Is the master leaking? Did you measure the travel per Phates video?
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() Nope not drunk. It's fully plastic. But I bench bled the master at work. And it seems to be working fine. |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Wow, plastic! Anything to save a buck on production.
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() Update!!!!!! Finally got a chance to work on the car again. Had no time for a while me and the wife had a baby!!! Anyway pulled the Trans found out the pressure plate dile pin holes were a little off and too tight when bolted to the flywheel. Grinded out the holes a hair. Put everything back together... Zoomzoom. Back up and running!!! Thanks for the help fellas!! |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() congratz for the baby and happy that you figured out! if i understand correctly, the bend dowell pin was forcing a gap between FW and PP ?
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks. No it was causing too much contact. It wouldn't disengage. Too much pressure on the plate. When I first unbolted the plate the clutch was stuck to the flywheel. I had to pop it off with a plastic tool bc of all the pressure. But it's all good now. Just a headache lol |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Nice, thanks for updating your thread with the fix. Congrats on the parasite
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