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| MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline Discussion of engine, tranny and drivelines. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score That happens to me also, no idea what it is but that pulsing your feeling goes threw my steering wheel/shifter also.... Are u only feeeling it in the clutch?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score could be your rear motor mount. i switched out mine from a SU to a CP-E yesterday and i'm getting it - not because of the mount but because i was having trouble getting one of the big bolts back on... gotta get back under there and check it. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks for the replies: It's not a motor mount issue, the vibration is isolated to the clutch pedal. 06speed6, That's what I think it is, or maybe a broken PP spring, but the clutch is bone stock with 26k miles on it. I wonder if Mazda will warranty it or if I'm on my own.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score sounds like the same symptoms IDRVSLO described three days before he blew... not trying to scare you.. just saying his last suspicion was a bend rod....
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| Yea, 3 guys who had bent rods, had the same issue going on.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score well, that would suck! Is there a thread that you can point me to that he/anyone else made? Thanks!
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Might be! I have no ticking/strange noise whatsoever coming from the motor at any speed RPM. Everyone with this same problem that blew their motors had a ticking noise.. yeah? If It's gonna blow I wish it would just do it quickly.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If your car is still within the warranty period, I would HIGHLY suggest you stop driving the car and put it back to stock ASAP. I'll just leave it at that...
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I have 26k miles.. so, yeah.. I have 10k more to go.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well, once it's back to stock, it's time to call the old stealership and set up an appointment for them to check out that vibration in the clutch pedal.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score With a bent rod, the vibration will be constant because the engine is out of balance. With a messed up pressure plate, it will be only in the clutch pedal and only when you are first pushing it down. IDRVSLO had a constant vibration if I remember right.
__________________ 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Tough call considering others experienced the same thing prior to failure. I should also mention that if the car sits for a bit and you first fire it up, the pedal does not vibrate... it takes a couple of minutes for it to start. Thanks for the help so far, I appreciate it.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Hmm.. considering the time it takes to start vibrating on a fresh start-up.. I wonder if it could be a hydraulic issue?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score IDRVSLO said he felt the vibration in his clutch pedal first... he went and got a new clutch setup because thats what he thought it was then 3 days after he got the clutch in, he blew. i dont think the new clutched changed the feel at vibrations in that range of the clutch engadgement. take advantage of that waranty.
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So I did some research on this... The only possible causes of a clutch pedal pulsation are... Drum roll... Bent crankshaft flange Warped flywheel Damaged pressure plate Improper torque on the pressure plate bolts Warped friction disc Damaged bellhousing Missalignment of the engine and transmission Damaged throw out bearing If the pulsation is also accompanied by a drop in engine rpm or the engine stalls at idle... Worn thrust bearings Engine main bearing failure
__________________ 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG | ||
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| Not Ranked : 0 score My clucth started to vibrate a few weeks ago.This really sucks to think I may have to change my rods now when I dont have a shop to do it and I never done that myself before.I guess I will have to find a shop and say goodbye to about $3k that I cant afford to spend now.Or I could put it all back to stock and sell to carmax or something.I really like this car tho since I get good power and good mpg.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Have the vibrations become more noticeable over time since it started. Are you hearing a difference in engine noises also. Like a slightly different ticking tone than the usual. What are your mods? I think Im in the same boat, it started about a month ago and the vibes are slowly becoming more noticeable. Its only when in gear when slight pressure is applied to pedal as soon as the pedal goes in about 1-2 inches it goes away. and I dont know about the cold or warm thing I always warm my car up before I drive it, I think I will go see about this today. I got 24k miles and engine mods are CAI/TBE(catless)/FMIC/BOV(recirc)/ITV22's |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I was just about to post that
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yup, unfortunately it looks like clutch pedal vibe = bent rod. It seems payin to play with this car is just too high a price. Until DCR figures shit out, which should be after my warranty runs out, stock will have to do.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Pull the oil pan and take a look up at your rods <-- an option.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ok this may be dumb but does the rod slightly bend more and more over time until it finally just snaps. Im assumming thats how it goes, because my vibrations are getting a little worse each week. What is changing the vibes to become stronger if its not the rod? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score To the OP another thing you should do is get a compression test done. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i had the same thing in my rsx basically from when i bought it at 17k, to when i sold it with 40k on it, it never affected anything in that car, i'd bet its a warped disk given the amount of power that gets sent through the clutch in these cars. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ill honestly believe the bent rod = clutch pedal pulsations if someone can tell me exactly how a rod can cause it on a car with a hydrolic clutch system that does not transfer engine vibrations to the pedal. The only possible thing that I can think of that even might be rod related is the crankshafts runout is out of spec (worn thrust bearing) and the bent rod is moving the crank back and forth causing the clutch assembly to move back and forth which causes the TO bearing to expand and contract which is felt in the pedal as a pulsation. I have yet to hear of a thrust bearing problem in this car.
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what pisses me off is EVERY time I try to think logical with this car and why it does what it does I get owned......
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no but really though i was like wtf my clutch is feeling weird all the vibration was crazy then i got in boost and weeeee boom.. and i mean the vibration was nasty like a foot massage was installed on my clutch pedel lol | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score My clutch does not vibrate very much at all and maybe it has been doing it for a long time and I just happen to notice it a few weeks ago.I wish PG would come out with those damn rods for the stock piston they have been talking about for months now.I would like to throw those on my car and be done with it before I have a hole in the block.
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One of the reasons you can move a clutch slave cylinder piston with hydralic, really brake fluid is that the brake fluid itself doesn't compress. So if you push the clutch pedal that fluid movement needs to transfer somewhere...ie cylinder moving forward and back...So if you put/add a vibration/noise/pressure/wave to the system the pedal is going to naturally feel it as the system re-releases the energy back that has been applied to it. Hope that helps. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Not to hyjack your thread, but ive had vibration in my clutch for months now and i havnt had any issues yet... Possible that it has nothing to do with a rod?
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Well, whatever it is I'm going to have the dealer deal with it. I purchased an aftermarket warranty through Warranty Direct that covers basically bumper-to-bumper to 100K and it cost me a 1020.00. If the dealer gives me any stink and I can't get anywhere I can fall back on Warranty Direct. I sort of hope it blows on the way to the dealer.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Thank you and I will.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Just got a call from Mazda. "This is normal. I have felt this with many other cars and it's never caused a problem" he tells me. I explained to him that I've had the car for 26k miles and it's never done it before... he replies: "It could just be dust in the collar, I wouldn't worry about it" hehe Great! Now what?
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| Let it blow bro...
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I have the same thing, only vibrates like the first half inch before you actually depress it, I think it's normal especially since I have full upgraded mounts. Once I depress it, it's not there anymore. I'd only worry about your engine blowing if it's constantly vibrating like these guys say, even when it's depressed...
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