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 Old 07-14-2012, 07:01 AM   #41
 
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Originally Posted by franz View Post
Where are you going to get the tank filled and how much is it?

Check out MAP and their DEI products. Its not mazdaspeed specific, but you could rig up an intake cooler or intercooler...uh cooler.
welding supply shop, 20 bux, fire dept's are a possibility as well
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 Old 07-14-2012, 09:11 AM   #42
 
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Thanks for the feedback guys.
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 Old 07-14-2012, 09:25 AM   #43
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I ran the co2 sprayer on my fmic on my 350z. It'd cool it........for a brief second then that was it.

methanol injection, e85 are both better options combined with a good fmic.
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 Old 07-14-2012, 09:38 AM   #44
 
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@Voltwings did you make a thread about your setup at all? If not, put up some pics somewhere to show it off. I'm curious to see how you run it.
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 Old 07-14-2012, 11:11 AM   #45
 
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For those who were interested, i don't know that this is entirely thread worthy but ill put it up here.

Item 1 is just a T off of the windshield washer line which can be found on the passenger side fender, i think a pack of 20 will run you like $2 at Home Depot. That line is just the thick generic stuff they sell at ACE for like 87 cents a foot or something. Its what i use for fuel line on my small engine applications ( pocket bikes, go karts...) so it can take the heat.

Item 2 is what happens when your line is too short haha, i basically just zip tied it onto the hood prop and again to the shroud and fed it to the inside.

Item 3 shows how i have the "sprayer" mounted, it is on the top side of that horizontal flap, angled up so that the water mists onto the top of the shroud and then (in theory) disperses evenly over the intercooler. Testing this system with the hood up is a bit screwy because obviously the water doesn't behave the same as if it were down, but its hard to see when the hood is shut.

What i have done to "test" this, is sit in my driveway for 5-10 minutes replicating the situation at a light, spray the system a few seconds before i take off, drive maybe 50 yards, pull over and touch the intercooler and its cool, or at the very least only warm to the touch.
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 Old 07-19-2012, 12:48 PM   #46
 
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I'm still learning here but the chiller is to fight heat soak right?

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 Old 07-19-2012, 03:11 PM   #47
 
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That was my initial thought
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 Old 07-19-2012, 03:26 PM   #48
 
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I don't see why you don't just do the co2 since you are obviously convinced it is a good investment. No matter what forum you go to there is always someone asking advice when they are already dead set that its the best path.
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 Old 07-19-2012, 03:32 PM   #49
 
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I just might. Not dead set. But I probably won't "kiss n tell" either way.
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 Old 07-19-2012, 05:00 PM   #50
 
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Originally Posted by pzr2874 View Post
I just might. Not dead set. But I probably won't "kiss n tell" either way.
So, if you stick to your guns and waste the money on Co2 you're not gonna stand up for decision in the face of groans and flaming? May as well just lock this thread now.
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 Old 07-19-2012, 05:15 PM   #51
 
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
If it makes you feel better, i sit in traffic on my way to work, with my ETS and all i've done is run a separate line off my windshield washers and run it up into the shroud. Its a thick line that i've poked several tiny holes in, so taking off from a light i've been at for a while, run the windshield washers for 2-4 seconds and your heatsoak is gone. There, i just saved you $394.
I kinda like that too. I have acutally been thinking about doing something very similar lately. Just a quick burst of liquid to help cool down the IC. Hmmm....
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 Old 07-19-2012, 05:20 PM   #52
 
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Originally Posted by pzr2874 View Post
I just might. Not dead set. But I probably won't "kiss n tell" either way.
Can we permaban this ass clown for faggotry yet?!
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 Old 07-19-2012, 05:24 PM   #53
 
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I picked up some #9950BB Jet Sprayers (3 pack with 90/180/360 degree nozzles) at Home
Depot for like $3. On my Gen1, I'm using one 180 nozzle centered at the front of the duct
and it seems to pretty well cover the entire IC.

Don't have any data yet, still in the install stage.
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 Old 07-19-2012, 05:35 PM   #54
 
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Permaban... hahaha... It'll never happen. Queer.

All I started out asking was one thing... You fuckers grilled me....

I can take whatever is thrown... but don't expect it to be thrown back. Not a follower.


It is what it is... You get no results.
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 Old 07-20-2012, 02:21 AM   #55
 
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Originally Posted by pzr2874 View Post
Permaban... hahaha... It'll never happen. Queer.

All I started out asking was one thing... You fuckers grilled me....

I can take whatever is thrown... but don't expect it to be thrown back. Not a follower.


It is what it is... You get no results.


So what you're really trying to say is. You dont take constructive criticism, and you're not a team player?
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 Old 07-20-2012, 04:16 AM   #56
 
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Not when I get beatdown. A "question" is how the thread was started. Plain and simple.

Don't get me wrong, I wasn't asking for permission. I have results, just not on this platform.
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 Old 07-20-2012, 09:33 AM   #57
 
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Originally Posted by pzr2874 View Post
Not when I get beatdown. A "question" is how the thread was started. Plain and simple.

Don't get me wrong, I wasn't asking for permission. I have results, just not on this platform.
Good luck being slow and spending a bunch of money doing it. You'll be the coolest individual sitting all alone.
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 Old 08-19-2014, 01:57 PM   #58
 
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so for the DIY sprayer was anyone able to get any results for the BAT's? The genpu ECU starts to pull timing at 150-160oF BAT's - Seems like a super cheap idea that might help prolong heat soak, especially on the staging lanes at the track. I'm personally go go with the big bag-o-ice on my TMIC. Until I can afford an aftermarket TMIC
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 Old 08-19-2014, 02:10 PM   #59
 
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Originally Posted by thomas_cory2000 View Post
so for the DIY sprayer was anyone able to get any results for the BAT's? The genpu ECU starts to pull timing at 150-160oF BAT's - Seems like a super cheap idea that might help prolong heat soak, especially on the staging lanes at the track. I'm personally go go with the big bag-o-ice on my TMIC. Until I can afford an aftermarket TMIC
your intake manifold is far more likely to heatsoak than your intercooler, and since that's where BAT's are measured, thats where you need to be concerned. I have tuned countless people who send me logs from the track, wondering why their pull was so slow, but their BAT's are 150+ and ECTs are 200+ even with a FMIC and everything. Thermal gaskets and an ice bag or something are your best bet. The gen 2 hood scoop does an excellent job of cooling a TMIC. I even got a guy im tuning thats on a 3071 at 28 psi on an ETS top mount.
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 Old 08-19-2014, 02:17 PM   #60
 
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
your intake manifold is far more likely to heatsoak than your intercooler, and since that's where BAT's are measured, thats where you need to be concerned. I have tuned countless people who send me logs from the track, wondering why their pull was so slow, but their BAT's are 150+ and ECTs are 200+ even with a FMIC and everything. Thermal gaskets and an ice bag or something are your best bet. The gen 2 hood scoop does an excellent job of cooling a TMIC. I even got a guy im tuning thats on a 3071 at 28 psi on an ETS top mount.
Gotcha, but yeah that's my issue. BAT's are like 150 at the track, I have a 14x14 canopy I'm going to use to keep at least the engine portion out of the sun, and I'll get a cooler w a few bags of ice and put one on the tmic in bet runs.

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 Old 08-19-2014, 02:26 PM   #61
 
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Best bet is honestly some sort of methanol sprayer. I've seen logs where BATs literally do not change, or still continute to climb (marginally) even with small shots of meth (3-5 gph) because the IM / boost air is just THAT hot. The ice may stop it from getting hotter, but you'll have a hard time actually keeping it cold i imagine. Best of luck though.
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 Old 08-19-2014, 03:10 PM   #62
 
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Originally Posted by thomas_cory2000 View Post
Gotcha, but yeah that's my issue. BAT's are like 150 at the track, I have a 14x14 canopy I'm going to use to keep at least the engine portion out of the sun, and I'll get a cooler w a few bags of ice and put one on the tmic in bet runs.

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You're better off running dry ice on the IM and/or the TMIC for drags as it doesn't leave residue/drips.

I still have yet to follow through on this.

BUT

As I had an issue with torque issues on AWD..... just watch it.
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 Old 08-19-2014, 05:06 PM   #63
 
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Hmm, what if you welded on a bracket to hold dry ice against your intake manifold, that should help keep it cool. Quick some one do it!
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 Old 08-20-2014, 09:37 AM   #64
 
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Coil a nitrous purge line around your intake, and aim the actual purge at the IM. Blast chill the intake and intake manifold at the same time, BAM.
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 Old 08-20-2014, 09:47 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by pzr2874 View Post
I just might. Not dead set. But I probably won't "kiss n tell" either way.
i went through hell and installed the CO2 on my FMIC and the bottle only lasted 2 races before it emptied it goes very very fast and will be very expensive you wont even make it through a sinlge day driving on a bottle and I actually think it slowed me down by sucking into engine, if you release that gas under the hood it has nowhere to go.

and all you people wanting to spray with windshield washing fluid are gonna be fucked when you start mis firing because the water got into spark plug coils and your dead on side of road running on 3 or less cylinders

the only true answer is Meth for lower temps
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 Old 08-20-2014, 10:04 AM   #66
 
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Originally Posted by Nitr0EngiE View Post

and all you people wanting to spray with windshield washing fluid are gonna be fucked when you start mis firing because the water got into spark plug coils and your dead on side of road running on 3 or less cylinders

the only true answer is Meth for lower temps
You do realize the car comes from the factory with a giant fucking hood scoop correct? Everything in the engine bay is weather proof.
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 Old 08-20-2014, 10:09 AM   #67
 
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I only wanted to run it for "on demand" kinda driving but I know it goes quickly. The way I did it on my WRX is that I sprayued the IC with water for a couple seconds and then sprayed the cO2 for 10-15 seconds. Worked well just haven't been able to find a way to tune for it.... such is life.
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 Old 08-20-2014, 10:41 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
You do realize the car comes from the factory with a giant fucking hood scoop correct? Everything in the engine bay is weather proof.
just because it has a hoodscoop does not mean its designed to take on water and allow water into the valley of coil packs, and no its not weather proof..... might be weather resistant but you are not immune to water getting to spark plugs .... there are various splash shield on the car to help reduce water from getting it where it dont belong but the stupid way you worded that makes it sound like you can drive through a puddle and be ok.
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 Old 08-20-2014, 10:45 AM   #69
 
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Originally Posted by pzr2874 View Post
115K on it now.. .and maintained like a motherfucker...



I just don't want to run into any e85 issues as this is my DD.

AND it's not EZ to get here. Yeah, 10 miles from my house but WAY out of the way on the daily commute... BTW...I always appreciate your input. The Co2 on my last car netted in the area of 25-30 AWP on an AWD dyno.... so you're looking at 40-45awhp on this car ON DEMAND... I don't need it all the time but when it's needed I can smack the bitch....
I have 140k on original turbo/clutch/etc... Genpu. Ran E30 for almost 80k miles. Only reason I'm not now is because of stx class rules for autocross.

Used to drive a half hour out of my way to stock up on e85. Sometimes had to run a tank without any e85, just stay out of the loud pedal.
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 Old 08-20-2014, 11:26 AM   #70
 
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Originally Posted by Nitr0EngiE View Post
just because it has a hoodscoop does not mean its designed to take on water and allow water into the valley of coil packs, and no its not weather proof..... might be weather resistant but you are not immune to water getting to spark plugs .... there are various splash shield on the car to help reduce water from getting it where it dont belong but the stupid way you worded that makes it sound like you can drive through a puddle and be ok.
OK "weather resistant." All I'm saying is there are plenty of Gen 2's running around with FMICs that have a giant hole leading all matter of air / rain / whatever right onto the coil packs and most(?) Seem to be just fine.
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