Combating KR and Running Faster
 

Well since i dont have a dashhawk or anyhting ot log this car im ONLY going off of what has assisted with my previous vehicle which i had a logger for. These are the main things that helped us with our KR issues and motors popping rods, maybe it can shine a little light here or something.

First off, the exhaust of my previous vehicle (buick regal) was restricted enough that it caused knock at WOT up to about 2.2* Once that was opened up and the bends were removed most of that knock was removed and most members of the community only saw about .8*

what many did to solve that KR issue was (dont bash it it worked) drilled 2 really small holes (i dont remember the size let me get back on that) in the thermostat which allowed small amounts of coolant to always flow through the engine. Here is the reasoning behind this, when you're racing the combustion chambers heat up very quickly. So the coolant around the cylinders and head might reach 250 degrees before the stat even begins to open. This is very bad and can cause high levels of KR in the back half of the 1/4 mile. By drilling the holes in the thermostat you can eliminate this problem because you will always have a small amount of coolant flowing.

Last off (not sure about exact locations for this car so it may not work. We had throttle body spacers. This ensured that the throttle body would stay cool so the charged air would stay cooler and denser so it would help with the AFR and also provide more power with less knock.

this is only my .02 on certain things that i know many of us are trying to combat right now and also provide light (i hope) on the never ending quest for reliable power.

Lol after looking around i just saw that PT performance actually has a gasket that blocks coolant to the TB. Not sure how a gasket would work because it still transfers heat but it seems like it does the trick.

yeah, them hot rod tricks might not work so hot in this car. get a meth kit and 4get about it.

Definatly interesting idea. On my old integra I just through my thermostat away after it froze up. Car would take 30 minutes to warm up it never really over heated but it could if on a long highway drive.

How does that gasket from PTP even work.... doesnt seem like that is going to isolate heat at all.

As I understand it, the gasket material is a material that does not conduct heat very well. As such, it significantly reduces the conductive heat transfer from the head to manifold and thus the manifold is cooler and thus less heating of the intake charge. I believe PTP's kit also includes a bypass for the throttle coolant lines to further reduce heating of the intake charge.

Ah I see, BUT, Its still just a gasket there is no space between anything which can still have heat transfer. Were any tests done relating to that piece? Also on a side note, is anybody doing any intake mani portings?

The material is does not conduct heat well, and it is much thicker than the stock gasket. you still have some heat transfer i'm sure, but significantly less than using the stock gasket.

So KR is normal for a MS3? I just got my Dashhawk in today and tested my car under high load/ partial throttle / WOT conditions, etc and I haven't gotten any KR (knock on wood) Does the KR start happening when you MOD or what?

On my bone stock '08.5 I was getting the light load / cruise KR.

I actually think with the speed's we have it all wrong. If the ecu is adjusting timing based on when it sees knock...we should make the knock sensors more sensitive, so it knocks sooner, preventing infinite timing advancement, and increasing the safety margin for when knock actually occurs.

knock knock