I used Mazda zoom engine carbon cleaner. 1 hour soak, gooped off thick and nasty.

Then what is the point? Other than to pour ten bucks through your intake?

Someone run that through the intake

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lol, easy and DISI are two words that do not mix

To slowly get it out... not dynamite it out. It's a maint thing

I run it through the IM. If that's what you are referring to.

Hence why you don't spray it before the maf, the straw goes behind the maf. Also.... Turbo seals are metal on metal. Nothing that can be harmed by chemicals.
I'm trying to borrow a borescope and see if I can do some before and after pics.

You are smart enough to know that.... But a newb with a cai that just takes off the filter will spray it all over the maf... And really a turbo compleatly seals metal on metal...
Understand that even spraying GALLONS of meth right at the throttle body BARELY cleans already dirty valves... And does a meh/ok job of keeping them clean after... What do u think 16oz of alchohol going to do after a spinning fan, a baffle system and 6ft of pipe.
Dont get me wrong I really hope this does some thing but i aint holding my breath.

no, i meant that i want someone to run the zoom zoom cleaner through the valves since it works best for cleaning. i'm assuming it's combustible.

i'm not going to try it, of course.

after cleaning my fair share of intake valves, i will promise you this stuff isnt go clean any of that carbon built up over thousands of miles of driving. That shit thats fossilized on your valves.

Now ive soaked valves in b12, over night (and b12 aint no pussy shit either) the only thing that will bust that carbon off is some fucking elbow grease.

Then why not run a catch can and not risk destroying your sensors? I seriously doubt pouring this through the intake will even take light deposits off of previously cleaned valves.

Because a catch can won't stop the issue. The issue is there is no fuel touching/cleaning your valves, so some carbon from combustion gets stuck on there

EGR delete is more effective for keeping the rear of the valves clean, imo. vs a catch can.

But together (EGR del and OCC/AOS) with a maint schedule should help more than nothing.

What are these sensors you speak of?

Ok, I just picked up some of this stuff. My car has been getting progressively slower (with shittier MPG to match) as of late with 35k on the odometer. I've got a really dumb question. The instructions state that the fluid is to be sprayed into the intake via an included tube so as to avoid hitting the MAF sensor. 1500-2000rpm is to be maintained during the spraying process. If I'm doing this solo, how do I hold a raised rpm? I can either spray or use the throttle. Doing both is not really an option. To anyone that has done this... will it still work if it is sprayed at idle?

If this doesn't work, I'm going to break down and do an actual valve cleaning with the intake manifold off, but figured this was worth a try first. It looks like just an enhanced version of Seafoam (which I've never done), so it can only help if anything.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_T-arlQhEsB..._in_bottom.jpg you need one of these.

Go to atr and set idle to 2k. Done

OK, managed to get give this stuff a try after finding a way to prop the accelerator pedal with an old snowscraper (ingenuity FTW). The spraying had to be done slowly as the engine stumbled a bit if I sprayed for more than 10 or so seconds at a time. After finishing the spray job, I let the car sit for an hour before taking it out for a spirited drive. Results: nothing. No Seafoam-like smoke, no improvement in throttle response, nothing. I guess there's no way out of doing a real valve cleaning.

So i finally got around to using the stuff. I will say that spraying it through the intake before the turbo is useless/pointless. It wouldn't draw it in well enough at all. It kept pooling and running out of my maf housing. So I decided to give it a try at the intake manifold. I used the port for the recirc/bov and that is the perfect spot for this IMO. I have a brass Tee in that hose for my boost gauge so I just stuck the straw in there and with the idle at 2k rpm let it go for 30 second intervals. I got smoke like I have never seen with seafoam before. I finished up the can and am letting the car sit as we speak. Will report back after driving it.

[IMG]http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...psc3853b1e.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...psf64b0029.jpg[/IMG]

Picks of valves?

Ok, so this non scientific test has my initial stamp of approval. Ideally before and after pics of the valves would be taken. That is for someone else to do.

My impressions upon driving the car after the 1 hour wait time. Car initially felt worse. Drove a few block to a faster road, a little smoke from the tail pipe, but not bad. Chemical smell was present. Drove 10 mins at about 45-55 mph, came back to neighborhood streets for stop and go driving. Car deffinetly has smoother low throttle response but wasnt bad before. I did notice the little hick up the car made at idle every now and then isn't here anymore but a few more days driving will help figure this out.

I have 2,600 miles left till my next oil change. I will make this test more of a long term project now as I will run the cleaner again just before my next oil change(this makes 12,000 miles since I last pulled the manifold to clean the valves) and then I will pull the manifold and take some pictures of how the valves look.

I'm going to flat out say that this product won't replace doing a real valve cleaning if you have lots of miles on your motor. But it may be a good way to keep them clean if used every 3,000 - 6,000 miles. I think that if i pull the manifold after the second cleaning and the valves are gunked to shit then this stuff is a waste.

Will update probably late july when I get to the next oil change interval.

Do your oil change now.

Or at least send off an UOA when you do change it to see if any of this shit is left in the oil. I did a UOA after SF'ing every 1K miles up to 3K and nothing was off other than viscosity ("but this could be from fuel in the oil as well" is what I was told by Blackstone).

@Turbo_Steve how'd that oil change go?
I've got a test can of the GDI IVD stuff in my basement and a few NATOR folks interested in using it.

Ya, so I sort of invalidated this test. Added wmi so the results may or may not be accurate. Have a new dd so I am putting the car away for the winter. I am going to pull the motor in spring for a build. I won't have pics till then. I think the spray is promising because I used some to clean my exhaust tip and it got the baked on oil off fast.

No worries on the pics.
I'll try to convince whoever is doing the GDI spray to do before/after valves pics.

Also, word was that there might already be valve pics with this cleaner, but for the life of me I can't find them. If anyone knows where they might be, please point me in the right direction.

@redneck4Christ; maybe buy a bottle of this when you do your valves. we can compare side by side with direct application to the valves.

Too much to read at this time of night, but sounds like a good idea. I'll get a bottle to have on hand for January. Compare it to Mazda's zoom zoom cleaner? Thx Joe.

I've got nearly 140k on the car and have never cleaned the valves. No way I'd run this thru my running engine before a proper cleaning.
But direct application after pulling the manifold, sure. I'll get this and B-12. I have Mazda's ZoomZoom. What should we use for the 4th cylinder? @

i'll have to look at my valve cleaning thread, but i think b12 was best for me out of b12, pure methanol, and denatured alcohol. i didn't have zoomzoom cleaner. i wouldn't buy anything else, unless you're just wanting to play around and experiment.

I saw this stuff a few months ago but i was skeptical. instead i soaked mine in B-12 and blasted them spotless with walnut shell. first timer @75,000 miles my valves were fucked

I work at Lexus and we are replacing pistons on is250s' (google the lsb) due to carbon buildup on the valves fucking shit up. Which doesn't work btw but still.

Some spray in a can wont do shit. Media blast the valves is the only way to really clean them.

My other concern about this spray is if you happen to blast off a nice big chunk do you really want that falling into your engine?

I don't see anyone saying this is a pancea for DI valve cleaning. Maybe it's a more focused alternative to seafoam or other regularly used intake based cleaners.

Please read the thread.

For sure. I think this product is something to do every oil change or maybe every other oil change from the time a DI engine is new, or after a full on valve cleaning. If it helps prevent the valves from getting super gunked up over time by using it every 3k miles then it could be a worthwhile product. This is still new to the market and time will tell if it is a good product.

I think a good way to tell would be for someone with their IM off to blast anyways - spray this directly on all closed valves, then blow it out with compressed air and take before and after pictures. nobody is gonna pull their IM before doing a lazy spray, we will just all "SUBBED FOR RESULTS OP".
maybe even more scientificy, compressed air it out, wait 20 min, do the next cyl, wait 20, do the next cyl, etc. then maybe do another cylinder with something like b12 or zoom zoom at the same time for comparison

Compressed air might be a reasonable comparison between chemicals. I was thinking 'scrub 5 minutes with a cheap toothbrush'. Compressed air might do better to clean the valves, but more of a mess for the rest of the engine bay.

compressed air would much better replicate the conditions in real product use (and not 200psi 1/16in of an inch from the valve, a much lighter hit). Physical abrasion is cheating and won't really show what the valves will ACTUALLY do from this stuff.

I'd have to say if you are thinking about doing this, you probably should. FWIW though, I wouldn't inject it before the turbo... I would think by the time it made it all the way down to the intercooler, it would just condense and do nothing. With that being said, it should be just fine for the throttle body.

When I use to work at BMW as a technician, we used to do the exact same thing to most of the cars. After 20-25k miles, you would notice a PHYSICAL running difference at idle, and the car would shake, especially with the A/C on. This happened on all of them, but was definitely more prevalent on the V8's (E60, E65, E53 with the N62)

The way we performed it was slightly different. The chemical we used was MOC, and it was, like this stuff, designed specifically for cleaning valves. The nice thing was that we had a pressurized tank with a fuel injector, and used shop pressure on a regulator to atomize the fluid into the air flow right into the intake. Run the car at 2500 RPM with an exhaust hose on it, and it would take 15-20 minutes to get through the bottle of fluid.

After that, put the intake back together and go for a test drive. Initially, as I saw stated by a couple people in here, the car runs like SHIT! After you blow it out, it starts running amazing, and you can feel the difference within the first few minutes of driving the car.

We would put the injector in between 2 of the intake boots somewhere after the MAF, but before the throttle plate. In our situation, I wouldn't do it anywhere in the hot side. With how an intercooler is designed internally, I'd be too concerned about the fluid condensing on the tubes and finding itself flowing into the bottom of the end tanks on the intercooler. Personally I would try to do it before the throttle plate, but unfortunately, unless you have a meth injection set up, it would be kind of hard to perform it like that. Since it is in aerosol form, I do think @Turbo_Steve 's solution would work pretty well.

As I said, I don't have any pictures to prove it, and I know there will be skeptics, but with first hand experience with it in the BMW world, I wouldn't hesitate to try it on my car, and I just may do so here in the next few weeks.

tl;dr: Used to work at BMW as a technician, and we performed induction flush services all the time with a similar fluid and it made a world of difference.

Fuck B12, Mazda unicorn sauce, or any other bullshit chemical.

Walnut blast, is the most effective method, with the least amount of ass pain. Period.

And it is what all the big boys do. Porsche, Audi, BMW ect.

Example:

REVIEW: Cleaning of intake valves with BMW walnut shell blasting tool

Will this fix my cracked ringland?

Lol