I own the mounts... I go by jb's next week to look them over :)

I'm sure his mounts, if required, will include loctite :)

Update:

Went to the dealership today. On the advice from a few people on this forum, I went to Bob Moore Mazda in OKC. The service manager is a very cool guy. I told him what happened...and the verdict from the dealership is...good news and bad news

THE BAD NEWS

Mazda no longer produces or supports (or whatever) the CV boot that is messed up. The dealership has no choice but to order an entire new axle.

THE GOOD NEWS

It looks like they are going to cover it 100% under the powertrain warranty.

I was very upfront with the service manager about the mods, didn't try to hide anything from him. Hell I even left my AP in the car when I turned over the keys. He straight up said that he didn't care that there were aftermarket mounts on the car. He seems to be very mod-friendly ;)

So it looks like this fail situation is turning around!! :phillyb:

If only all dealers were like that. Glad to hear it's turning around for you finally, Cataphract.

And I just noticed the name of the emoticon that you used...nice...

The dealer is a rarity, but very coo. The fact you were upfront is very important, and i what probably helped the most. Hope it gets fixed soon.

Titties!

Glad I could help man ;) Told you they're an awesome dealership indeed :) Anyone else in the OKC area don't mess with Reynolds. Bob Moore is the only dealership you need to deal with. And ask for Yan......Glad to hear everything worked out for you Cataphract_40

Awesome news!

Make sure Bob Moore Mazda is added to the "Awesome" list of Mazda dealerships (if not already there).

LOL at the phillyb smilie = :phillyb:

I could barely get my dealer to warranty a stock mount under powertrain! So you did good.

Wow that's awesome! I wouldn't even blame the dealer if they didn't cover the damage. But they obviously want to keep customers! Awesome dealer!

There's an awesome dealership list?

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...me-list-28692/

That is awesome!!! I hope you brought some doughnuts for the techs and service managers lol. I always bring doughnuts whenever I go to the dealer. Helps with alot of things.

I'm going to bring them a freakin case of doughnuts!!!

Sorry to see this Dan, this situation sucks. At least it's getting fixed without minimal issues.

When are people going to figure out that two-piece mounts in this car do not fair well with the amount of movement and vibration? All the red loctite in the world isn't going to fix that defect.:smashfreakB:

There is nothing wrong with the stock tranny and engine mount in this car (Cough one-piece) other than the bushings being way too soft and too big just to calm down the engine harshness and vibration. Why try to reinvent the wheel with this design?

For the record I have the TRZ combo (I felt the best design was the most simple and I'm not a CPE hater (I have the Nano intake and it kicks ass)

im going to drive my car all the way to OK just to get it serviced now

Sorry to hear the part failed.
but, thanks for posting I just checked mine and two of the allen bolts were sitting on the top of the transmission and two were missing from the back side of the mount. Ended up finding to bolts that fit and made a make shift thin steel plate to sit below cp-e's plate to prevent the other allen bolts from backing out. Sent Cp-e an e-mail to see if they can get this thing made as a one piece mount vice the current setup.

did you use loctite?

IF PROPERLY DESIGNED, a bolted connection will generally be just as strong, if not much stronger, than a welded connection for plates that size. Any simulation using cosmos or ansys will show that easily. I'm assuming that is what cp-e did as I don't think they are morons. Remember a welded connection is only as good as the quality of the weld. It's hard to fuck up drilling a hole for bolted connections especially if its using a CNC mill (also cheaper than welding).

No one here can say the design is "shit" without showing proof of their own model simulation. My argument is IF it is designed properly. It wasn't a design fail in this case it was a loctite fail. That's the ONLY conclusion we can come to without further analysis.

FUCK.

There was no loctite in my instructions...

Taking this bitch apart and adding loctite when I do my RMM.

um....yeaaaahhh. Might be a good read to go through the last fee pages. CPE emailed purchasers last week, too, a gentle note, that includes a mention of using red loctite.

Yeah, I bought mine from a secondary vendor so CPE has no idea that I have mine.

P.S. Fuck CPE pricing, got mine from therpmstore.com

Yeah, I thought that would be a problem. FWIW, they also posted it in their section, but not as a red flag.

All resellers of the CPE Mount should be warning their customers now, too. Sadly, I am not sure if some even come onto this forum and see this this specific thread, and can then pull the data to do it. What a mess.

I was finally able to get the car worked on today.

1x GG46-25-600C replaced, no charge, covered 100% under powertrain warranty.:smokin:

Cool! Glad you got it fixed. Hopefully CPE can send you the new mount, new plate, loctite, too.

Yup, got that in the mail yesterday. Red loctite I have...I've had that shit for years...if that stuff had been in the instructions I wouldn't be in this (fixed) mess :approve:

Awesome!!
Sucks that you had to go through that, but glad everything worked out in the end.

Forget loctite. Throw away the Allen head bolts, buy grade 10.8 hex head bolts, drill them out for lockwire, and lockwire the bastards.

My question is: is there a reason that the plate and bushing mount can't be pre-assembled by CP-e? Why does the customer have to assemble these?

Good to hear everything worked out!


Tapawhat?

I was waiting to buy one until I saw the thing and it was obvious that those little fasteners were all that was holding up your motor. Fuck that, especially since the user has to assemble them. Two possible options would have been for the manufacturer to pre-assemble, or for precise directions to be included. Purchasers got neither.

I hate to be a dick (not really) but I'm going to quote myself from 6 months ago.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...94/#post656824

From experience...check your LCA bolts on the driver side and make sure they are tight. After my mount failed I began getting a clunking noise in the front when starting/stopping and going over bumps. It steadily got worse and I thought it was something related with the axle until I got a good look at the car. Only sound I get now is the forward/reverse click. I'm not sure if the bolt coming loose was related to the mount fail, but I never had this problem until that fateful night.

which ones now?

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ct_40/flca.jpg

it's the farthest bolt on the left with 130.0 - 150.0 torque settings

I just loctited mine this weekend. I used blue loctite since it was all I had. Turns out that the bolts on my mount were still pretty tight, but I felt alot better after gluing those bitches up. I'm kind of surprised too, since my rear mount is still fucked and the cpe mount wasn't loose after over a month of driving on only 2 mounts basically.

Another one bites then dust... :(

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ml

Wow...

Oh joy. Looking at those pictures brings back some fond memories of driving 10+ miles home with a broken mount & engine resting on the half-shaft...