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 Old 11-22-2011, 05:26 PM   #41
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Touchè
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500awhp 440awtq uncorrected

EFR8374 ms6, no meth, 50/50 e85, and IDCs in the 90's @ 500+ awhp, with room to grow... fifth port winning.
Count down to head lift.... 3.... 2....

30r ms3 dd on deck, has fuel... needs top mount turbo lovin' next...

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 Old 11-22-2011, 05:34 PM   #42
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I know you see what I'm saying.
It's the tensioners job to take up any slack, but if it can't, it would be the same for pinned and non pinned cams. It's not like our non pinned ones are floating/self adjusting.
Stretching a chain just plain sucks for all involved.
I need to get the dcr and do mine.
I really don't want to though.
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 Old 11-22-2011, 06:18 PM   #43
 
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the ARP crank bolt is not ttyl, you can reuse and retorque the shit out of it, and wtf the ms3 has 2 separate sprockets, reg mzr has a one piece dual sprocket....yeah most definitely shitty engineering
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 Old 11-22-2011, 06:21 PM   #44
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But with the arp bolt you follow the same TTY procedure?
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 Old 11-22-2011, 06:31 PM   #45
 
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Yes you follow the same torque proceedures as stated in the factory manual, but do not be alarmed when you can not get the full 90 degrees beyond the inital ftlbs, the arp crank bolt is a stout mother fucker compare to the oem ttyl crank fastener, the most I was able to get was 40 degrees

Guess what....remember when I said cosworth stopped making keyed sprockets, well I guess they started making them again although they are charging twice as much as they used to, just bought one, I'll use it on my second engine I' am building.

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 Old 11-22-2011, 07:38 PM   #46
 
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The amount of force required for the ARP bolt to reach that 90 should only be done with a flywheel lock and the engine on the ground not a stand. otherwise do as tobasco did and do the 40 degrees. IT is a very stout bolt and can and will break the SST pin or an engine stand if you try and force it to the full 90degrees without the above mentioned procedure.


For those doing the keyway I just torque mine down to 155ft/lbs and call it a day. Had a nice talk with a ARP tech about this and with a keyed crankshaft there is no need for all that torque anymore. I haven't had a problem with it yet and have retorqued it atleast 6 times sense the initial use.


Disclaimer: anything done outside of the mazda OEM service manual with non standard factory equipment is done at your own risk.
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 Old 11-23-2011, 03:56 AM   #47
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Hahaha.
That goes for YOU big turbo DJ.
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 Old 11-23-2011, 09:41 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
Hahaha.
That goes for YOU big turbo DJ.
Lol, what?

Maybe i missed something.




I failed at measuring the I.D. of the sprocket. Ended up working late, and then had to run home to fab a dump tube for a 20g mr2. I won't have time to swing by my mom's house (where the sprockets are) tonight either, but i have a spare motor in my garage at my house.... so i'll pull the crank pulley and measure the crank shaft.
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500awhp 440awtq uncorrected

EFR8374 ms6, no meth, 50/50 e85, and IDCs in the 90's @ 500+ awhp, with room to grow... fifth port winning.
Count down to head lift.... 3.... 2....

30r ms3 dd on deck, has fuel... needs top mount turbo lovin' next...

Check out the hair Salon:
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 Old 11-23-2011, 10:17 AM   #49
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You missed the disclaimer right before my post apparently.
Doing things outside the manual(like big turbo) are done at own risk
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 Old 11-23-2011, 10:20 AM   #50
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Lol, i kinda thought that was it.
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500awhp 440awtq uncorrected

EFR8374 ms6, no meth, 50/50 e85, and IDCs in the 90's @ 500+ awhp, with room to grow... fifth port winning.
Count down to head lift.... 3.... 2....

30r ms3 dd on deck, has fuel... needs top mount turbo lovin' next...

Check out the hair Salon:
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 Old 11-23-2011, 02:00 PM   #51
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Im about to goto the storage unit to ship some parts, i have a pully and crank that I can measure. You guys just need the id and od?
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P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG


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 Old 11-23-2011, 02:13 PM   #52
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Yup, I.D. of the crank sprockets. Might not hurt to get a tooth count too i guess... but i sincerely doubt that would be any different.

Just take a pic with your phone and the micrometers
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500awhp 440awtq uncorrected

EFR8374 ms6, no meth, 50/50 e85, and IDCs in the 90's @ 500+ awhp, with room to grow... fifth port winning.
Count down to head lift.... 3.... 2....

30r ms3 dd on deck, has fuel... needs top mount turbo lovin' next...

Check out the hair Salon:
www.permtuning.com
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 Old 11-23-2011, 02:17 PM   #53
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You got it.
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P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG


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 Old 11-23-2011, 05:22 PM   #54
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Here ya go
Attached Images
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2006 Mazdaspeed 6

P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG


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 Old 11-23-2011, 05:44 PM   #55
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Any reason why I couldn't use a gen2 short block on a gen1? This thing with the key on the crank pulley is the only difference I've seen so far.

A new gen2 short block for $2160 is really not so bad. And it's $300 LESS than a gen1. shuuu. wtf.
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 Old 11-23-2011, 05:55 PM   #56
 
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MS3 DISI engine regardless of gen 1 or 2 are the exact same I' am like almost 100% sure of this, now the mzr engines- gen2 are what was changed radically, keyed forge crankshaft, rotating assembly is still cheap ass cast crap, the stroke was increased to go from 2.3 to 2.5 displacement, so different crank throw (longer) and longer rods.

I do not think you disi guys would have anything to gain from taking ms3 gen2 engine parts cause they are the same, the chasis platform represent the difference between gen 1 and 2 for your cars

Side note I think it is fucking horseshit that import mags do buyers guides and rate the ms3 head and shoulder above all else in the fwd catergory ie dsport in particular yet they turn their noses up at them, sick and fucking tired of reading about feature honda eg and dg's.
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 Old 11-23-2011, 07:16 PM   #57
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MSF takes way too long to show attached pics when i click em... i just measured the diameter on the block in my garage, with ghetto ass measuring tape... and it was right at one inch.

Is that what your dial shows marcus?


Originally Posted by Tabasco69 View Post
Side note I think it is fucking horseshit that import mags do buyers guides and rate the ms3 head and shoulder above all else in the fwd catergory ie dsport in particular yet they turn their noses up at them, sick and fucking tired of reading about feature honda eg and dg's.
Hahaha, yeah, i thought that article was funny two. Huge spread on the ms3.
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 Old 11-23-2011, 09:02 PM   #58
 
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wish i read this thread before i blew up my valves but awesome disscussion

awesome knowledge to add to the bank
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 Old 11-23-2011, 11:24 PM   #59
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ID is 1.044"
OD is 1.046"
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 Old 11-24-2011, 03:54 AM   #60
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2 thou clearance?
Seems like a lot.
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 Old 11-24-2011, 08:16 AM   #61
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Its about what I expected, after torquing that bolt down I dont think it makes a difference.
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 Old 11-28-2011, 02:37 PM   #62
 
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Originally Posted by Tabasco69 View Post
Yes you follow the same torque proceedures as stated in the factory manual, but do not be alarmed when you can not get the full 90 degrees beyond the inital ftlbs, the arp crank bolt is a stout mother fucker compare to the oem ttyl crank fastener, the most I was able to get was 40 degrees

Guess what....remember when I said cosworth stopped making keyed sprockets, well I guess they started making them again although they are charging twice as much as they used to, just bought one, I'll use it on my second engine I' am building.
Do you have a part # for the ARP replacement bolt for the speed3?
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 Old 11-28-2011, 10:00 PM   #63
 
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I would call ARP directly and ask them .....but I 'm pretty sure it would be the same as the mzr...meh still call to verify part no.251-2501

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AR...2501/?rtype=10
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 Old 11-28-2011, 10:09 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by pinkcheese View Post
Yes when you get a chance please take a ID measurement of that sprocket for me.
@pinkcheese

Can you confirm Marcus's measurements are either the same or different than the duratec?
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 Old 11-29-2011, 06:00 AM   #65
 
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Ok maybe we could make a New post about this idea ..
Some guys on here have had the timming slip or bolt come loose.
I would like to know what you guys did wrong .
As in ..
Was the tourque enought
Did u do the 1/4 turn
New bolt
new washers
I would like to know wear you went wrong .
Maybe a stickey for referance on not what to do .
Just a idea ..
I think It may be time for my VVT/ chain/ tentioner to be done and I an scared as hell !
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 Old 11-29-2011, 06:42 AM   #66

 
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It is quite interesting that I missed this thread, and this past weekend came to the conclusion while helping tune @oldognewtriks car. The conclusion (without seeing this thread) was that the crank pulley slipped and lost timing with the crank
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 Old 11-29-2011, 07:50 AM   #67
 
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We will know Saturday socks. I am buying a new bolt and possibly installing the stck crank pulley instead of the aftermarket one.
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 Old 11-29-2011, 08:29 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by jracer View Post
Ok maybe we could make a New post about this idea ..
Some guys on here have had the timming slip or bolt come loose.
I would like to know what you guys did wrong .
As in ..
Was the tourque enought
Did u do the 1/4 turn
New bolt
new washers
I would like to know wear you went wrong .
Maybe a stickey for referance on not what to do .
Just a idea ..
I think It may be time for my VVT/ chain/ tentioner to be done and I an scared as hell !
Most issues arise from re-using the stock crank bolt, and / or not replacing the friction washers that go between the crank sprockets.... as well as not torquing properly.

As long as you do it right, you shouldn't have issues imo.
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 Old 11-29-2011, 08:42 AM   #69
 
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thanks DJ..
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 Old 11-29-2011, 11:48 AM   #70
 
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Sorry been a little MIA lately

Duratec measurements off a spare 2.3L sprocket I have/

I.D. 1.047"
O.D. 1.484"

taken with a digital micrometer.
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 Old 11-29-2011, 12:04 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
ID is 1.044"
OD is 1.046"
Originally Posted by pinkcheese View Post
Sorry been a little MIA lately

Duratec measurements off a spare 2.3L sprocket I have/

I.D. 1.047"
O.D. 1.484"

taken with a digital micrometer.
O.D's are off quite a bit.... how is that possible? Or was it supposed to be 1.048, pink?
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 Old 11-29-2011, 12:51 PM   #72
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There is no way thats right, the crank i measured off of had some surface rust on the snout so it nay be a couple thousandths off.
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 Old 11-29-2011, 01:43 PM   #73
 
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These are sprocket dimensions. I do not have a spare crank to measure.
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 Old 11-29-2011, 01:53 PM   #74
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Ohhh you measured the outside part of the sprocket not the crank. Mine was 1.455 but I dont think that is a critical measurement.
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 Old 11-29-2011, 02:07 PM   #75
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At this point... i guess it's safe to say the keyed products from cosworth would indeed work on the DISI MZR's.... eh?
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 Old 11-29-2011, 07:07 PM   #76
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If they have the same amount of teeth, pitch and pressure angle.
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 Old 11-29-2011, 07:50 PM   #77
 
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The Cosworth is a 19 teeth sprocket and a 38 teeth cam gear with a 8 MM chain.
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 Old 11-30-2011, 08:27 AM   #78
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Originally Posted by pinkcheese View Post
The Cosworth is a 19 teeth sprocket and a 38 teeth cam gear with a 8 MM chain.
I have to run to my mum's house in a bit, and that's where i have a tore down motor. I'll bring my calipers with me, and snap a few pics.
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 Old 11-30-2011, 12:18 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by pinkcheese View Post
The Cosworth is a 19 teeth sprocket and a 38 teeth cam gear with a 8 MM chain.
Looks like we have a 40 tooth cam gear:




And 0.162" (4.12mm) cam gear width:




0.19" (4.83mm) inner chain gap:




0.451" (11.46mm) outter chain (including a pin, i was rushed and just grabbed some quick measurements):






And for giggles, here's my crank sprocket I.D., 1.048" (26.63mm), and it's a 20 tooth sprocket (i think this could possibly be the oil chain sprocket, so i'll double check next time i'm over there... again i was rushed):




And since the DISI crank sprockets are 2 piece, where the duratec are 1 piece, here's our spacing, 0.601" (15.26mm):




Overall combined crank sprockets depth, 0.9315" (23.66mm), eye balled, but accurate enough IMO (also, no friction washers between sprockets for the hair splitters out there):

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 Old 11-30-2011, 07:21 PM   #80
 
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the basic dimension are close but look at the teeth, looks to be a different profile, pitch and depth.
cos=cosworth part fyi
the disi cam chain teeth, assuming that I'am talking about the right ones seems to be of a lesser width, 4.83@ this one is cos: 4.93@
oil pump tooth width is cos: 2.74
overall sprocket depth is cos: .933mm versus .9315/but you didn't include the washer/spacer, so I would assume the 2 to be of the same depth

inside diameter cos: 1.043 disi: 1.048

Last edited by Tabasco69; 11-30-2011 at 07:36 PM.
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