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Cv axle exploded 1 Attachment(s) Just wondering if there is a good write up to replace the drivers side cv axel? I just realized mine is clicking and the grease exploded all over inside the wheel well. Attachment 84282 How safe is it to drive on this for a few more days? I won't be able to get a replacement until next week. What's the worst that could happen if something bad were to happen? Im looking to get mine rebuilt by a local axle shop to retain the oem strength. Is there an alternate source for a quality replacement for a big turbo speed 3? Thanks Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2 |
I looked on you tube when I did mine. It was a bitch because of that lil damn pin going into the tranny... |
its best to buy a used one thats still good and if you want for satisfaction replace the boot on it if you want. |
It looks like its just the boot |
Should be alright , just take it easy on it and avoid cutting your wheels sharply and delivering a lot of power. I'd wonder about the quality of parts the rebuild shop is using. If anything other than Oem, make sure it has a lifetime warranty if possible. Quote:
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does it click/pop when going straight or just when turning. |
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Good call on the youtube video. What size is the big nut that holds the driveshaft in the hub. Looks like 33-35mm? Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2 |
Clicking while going straight is bad news. Otherwise you should be fine for a bit. |
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The place I'll be taking my driveshaft to is Phoenix Rack and Axle. I've been going to them for a long time. The have built custom drive shafts for my Jeeps and they have also done gearing and axle work on my Jeeps as well. They should be able to rebuild this driveshaft hopefully at a decent price. I'll try to pull it tomorrow morning and drop it off to hopefully get it back on Saturday. Again does anyone know the size of the axle nut? |
almost positive that the axle nut is 32mm |
I just went to my garage to double check and yes its a 32.. |
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Bt finally kill it? Gl on getting it out |
I just replaced mine not too long ago my driver side was torn pretty bad as well. Its much easier to just source an OEM CV axle. I bought one off ebay for like $150 shipped and just popped it on. I have my old one that is actually still in perfect shape sitting here just needs a new boot and I've been to lazy to just by one. Let me know if your interested. |
I would do this^. Same thing happened to me last year, and I ended up buying a new boot (P/N GG46-22-640) from the dealer (there are no aftermarket boots that fit) for $70, and paying my mechanic to replace it. It looked like a pain to replace the boot on my own. I got lucky, and the CV joint appears to still work over a year later. If I had to do it again, I would just get a new axle. They're relatively cheap. |
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Right, so, apparently, the inside of the OEM boot is "keyed" so that generic aftermarket boots that lack the keying (all of them) don't seal well. I hadn't understood this until I actually bought an aftermarket CV boot from Napa that was also supposed to be a fit for the MS3 and it didn't fit at all. I had to return it. Replacing the CV boot seemed so simple in theory, but in the end I didn't save any money, wasted a lot of time, and ended up with a CV joint that I couldn't be sure was going to last. Seriously, next time I would replace the half-axle. |
Same situation with a different car. Damn torch getting a few bolts loose + a few days later/parts. Go with Gale/SleeperHatch on this one. Easier solution in the end. |
The job is a pita! There is a wire circlip at the splined end that engages into the tranny. To get it out a good amount of force is needed (a good whack with a lump hammer). Getting it in is also fun, and torque that axle nut down good! |
When I did mine a few months ago, I replaced it with a one from ebay MAC or something like that. Marked as new. Looked pretty nice when I got it. I have a lift so taking it off wasnt that bad. We also just yanked on the axel until it popped out of joint inside the boot then cut the boot off. Removed the end part of the axle. That way it was easy to make sure it was perfectly straight when we pulled it out and no extra weight to have to worry about. I had a pry bar on the top and my brother had one on the bottom. We put pressure on both ends and pop. Came right out on the first try. Good luck but it seems as tho youre having a shop do it so they should be fine |
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I'd source a friend or dad and do this. Thats how we replaced my dad's mazda6 v6 and my sister civic and a few other cars. I'd replace both CV's if it was me. Mine started clicking when i get off the clutch too quick so I suspect I'll be up to that plate soon. At the same time replace any bushings (swaybar) with OEM or some popular aftermarket like SURE. |
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Thanks for the info! Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2 |
Quick question, I have the axle nut removed and the bolt/nut for the lower ball joint removed. How do I get this driveshaft out? Do I just pound on it with a BFH until it pops out of the wheel hub? Then use a pry bar to remove it from the transmission? Also how much fluid will I lose out of the transmission? Thanks for your replies! |
So I've removed more stuff and this is where I'm at. How do not get the shaft out of the hub? Don't turn it a certain way and pound it out? http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/08/yqeny7eb.jpg Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2 |
Put the nut on the axle loose on hit it with a large hammer |
Thatt will give you some play doing that.. what I did was get under the car and try to pry it out a little with a crow bar. Be careful of the gasket. Then you have to turn and yank that bitch.. don't be nice. That's is why if you take it off the big nut you pull from the tire end.. |
Before you hit it, do yourself a favor and bolt the lca back up and upon reinstall slap some all purpose grease on the splines of the axle going into the hub. You'll give me a handjob if you ever have to take it back off. |
Yep just put the nut back on the end until sort of flush and whack it a few times. It will start to back out of the hub. |
Just pull the boot off and replace it that way you don't have to fight getting it out Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2 |
ok i got it out of the hub, just kept wacking it with the BFH. Now the next part is getting it out of the transmission. Any special tricks or wedge points to get it out? All thats left is the boot and the spline going into the transmission. The Axle pulled right out of the boot as nothing was holding it in place. Now I need to pull the boot and spline. If I use a pry bar I would probably have to use two so it pulls STRAIGHT OUT of the transmission? Any tips or tricks on this part is appreciated. I'm ready to get this out and put the new one in place so I can drive my car again. |
Just replace the boot now if the one in there is still good otherwise you need some fast hard yanks on it and make sure your pulling straight out Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2 |
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Attachment 84331 Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2 |
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UPDATE: I found a super easy solution to removing the axle out of the transmission. DO NOT USE A PRY BAR!! I used a $10 pickel fork and lodged it between the axle and transmission and one pop with the BFH it flew right off. I spent several hours pulling and pushing and smacking several sized pry bars and it just would not budge plus it was hard to get a good grip point on the axle. The fork has 2 points which spread the force evenly and allowed the axle spline to pull straight out instead of being pinched each direction that the pry bar was causing. So for anyone needing to remove their axle, please spend $10 on a ball joint remover or pickel fork and hit it once with the BFH and walla!! |
Going to try this today! |
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4 years later this thread has revived. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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