Dashawk and EGT's
 

I've tried searching for this and am coming up blank. I know that it won't 'accurately' read the EGT's as there isn't a probe in the manifold.

What is the closest sensor that the Dashawk will read? Cat B1S1? and for those of you that have a seperate EGT gauge how many degrees is the dashawk off from the actuall readings you are getting?

I just want to be able to keep and eye on things, and well .. it's fcukn cold here so I won't be installing any new gauges until spring.

+1

maybe one of the guys who has an actual EGT probe can give us some sort of corrolation between actual EGT and what the temp reout for this is (I'm guessings it for the 1st or 2nd o2?)

thats what I'm hoping for ...I can't find anything for O2 sensors etc in the DH, all I could find was the CAT B1S1, which I assume is the 1st catalytic converter.

Just for reference ... I'm getting between 900-1100 deg F on normal driving, staying in a vaccuum just 'normal' driving. When getting on it good it's risen to 1400 deg F and slowly comes backdown with normal driving after.

Same here, would love to know.

I have the same results as the OP and I usually let the car cool a bit when I hit 1500's.

I have an EGT gauge, the sensor is in the exhaust manifold just before the turbo. What questions do you have I'll be glad to help.

whats the temp difference between your EGT and your C1B1 temp PID on your DH?

haltech i know you have an EGT too. any info?

I don't have a Dash Hawk so I'm not sure what your asking.

We want to see how close the cat temp reading from the DH is to actual EGT.

What we need is someone to post who has both a Dash Hawk AND an EGT gauge.

Haltech?

Anyone?

We have installed an EGT gauge but the probe is right after the turbo outlet in the downpipe. There is approx. 110°C difference between EGT and CatTemp at WOT. And also to mention, the CatTemp will read up to 200°C higher at cruise and low load situations.

Here ya go:

DashHawk EGT – Exclusive Online Offer! - MSD Ignition Tech Support Forums

The cat temp per the dashhawk is hardly accurate whatsoever. As said, one has seen a 110F difference, ive seen much higher. Ive also seen the stock bank go 500F hotter the second ive turned the car off and restarted it.

I said °C however... ;)

So I guess the lesson here ... the Dash Hawk is useless for this.... OR is there a direct relation....

EGT = 1000 deg F while the Dash Hawk shows 1200 deg F on Cat B1S1?

Well, not completely useless... I saw around 930°C CatTemp on the stock engine at WOT so I take this as reference and go from there.

I'm guessing you don't want to install the MSD EGT Probe and get accurate results?

Also, why do you care about your EGT's? Are you going to custom tune your engine with the CPE standback? Do you know what EGT's really mean when you look at them? Do you know what affects EGT's and how to tune your engine by your EGT readings?

Or are you just looking for another parameter to graph just for fun?

You are asking... who?

wow bro calm down. maby he knows alot. why would he get an EGT sensor and gauge if all he has to do is subtract/add ~200F to his cat temp reading? it still reads the temp but there should be a direct correlation between the temp from the WBO2 sensor and the actual egt's minus some preset number. thats all hes asking. and no u dont have to be tuning to montor your EGT's. lower EGT's are always better and after the speculation from PTP, EGT's are something myself and other will now want to monitor more closely.

Original poster

Then why do you want to monitor your EGTs? So it looks cool on a graph? Do you know what affects your EGT's? Do you know that your engine can be just as safe running at 1500 degrees as it is at 1200 degrees? Did you know it could actually be safer running at a higher temp? Do you know that your EGT's will read lower as your A/F ratio goes higher than 14.7:1?


Um... no they are not. Throw your car on a dyno and tune for the lowest EGT. I would bet your car either runs like crap, or explodes.

Seriously, unless you are going to use the EGT's as a way of tuning, forget about them. Watch your A/F ratio. It is way more accurate, and does not cause confusion like EGT's can.

You can simplify EGT's to WOT pulls only for purposes of safety/power. I'm not sure what the breaking point is on this motor, but with subies if you are getting close to 1800 degrees you're nearing the bad zone.

The problem is that EGT's are based on MANY different factors, and just because your EGT's may look "normal" doesnt mean that your engine is running properly, or safely. Too lean of a mixture will show up as elevated exhaust temperatures, but too much spark advance will bring the numbers back down again. So, your EGT's would look great, but you destroyed the engine.

So as I mentioned in my original post, use EGT's as a way of helping your tuning. But, if you have no means to adjust any of the parameters that affect EGT's, don't worry about them because there is nothing you can do.

Thats why I say, if you have a CP-e standback, then by all means get a proper EGT gauge as it can aid in tuning.

Wow did this get out of hand, the question was simple, is there are a corelation between what an EGT gauge will read in the manifold to what the temp is at the cat. Whether this is for tuning or watchful eye purposes is irrelevant. Knowing more about the car and what it's doing is NEVER a bad thing.

I WILL be tuning the car with either the standback or Accessport, when software is out(not sure yet which one) and at that time I'll likely get a proper tap and standalone gauge for that, but IF the Dash Hawk WILL DO IT within a reasonable degree of difference that can be predicted... how is that a bad thing.

EGT readings will be much less accurate than actually watching the parameters that affect your EGT's. You will not know what is happening with the engine by watching the EGT's alone. As I mentioned in a previous post, your A/F ratio may hit 14.7:1 causing high EGT's but your timing may be advanced so far that they come back down to a level that you may "read" as being safe. Meanwhile, you are on the side of the road wondering why you threw a rod through the block. Wouldn't you have rather watched your A/F ratio and your ignition timing instead of your EGT's? I know I would.

Now you want to take a reading that really doesn't tell you anything other than your engine warms up and cools down for reasons you cant explain, but you want to monitor it through a secondary means and use some math that may or may not be accurate based on how your particular engine is tuned. How accurate do you think this reading will be, and do you really think this is a good way to monitor your engine?

What I'm trying to say is, watching the EGT's really wont do you any good when you have the ability to watch everything that actually matters. You have that ability with your Dashhawk.

If you feel the need to monitor your EGT's and datalog it, then I suggest buying the $100 EGT probe that MSD makes. At least it will be accurate, but it wont tell you the whole story of what is happening in your engine other than its gets warm and cool.

I for one like to keep an eye on my EGT knowing that 1220.666 °F is the melting point of aluminum.

I DO watch everything else ... so your rant is without consequence to me. I have the Dash Hawk (usually monitoring AFR, KR, STFT and LTFT) as well as Boost, Oil Pressure and Coolant temp(yes some will say this is irrelevant as well) gauges. I wanted another way to watch one more variable (because I understand there are many that cause problems with the engine) thats all.

Simple.

The EGT gauge is used as a warning. You can't argue that seeing a high EGT (close to popping) is good no matter what. Yes, you may also have problems with a low EGT hence the reason you watch other parameters as well like you said.

If monitoring the EGT is your prerogative, I suggest buying the probe that MSD sells for the dashhawk. I gave the link in my first post.

Yes, but the EGT is not what is going to blow the motor. A problem with your A/F ratio, or ignition timing, or bad gas, or any number of other things will blow the motor. The EGT is just a result of these factors.

Right...but its a bit easier to watch an egt temp gauge than it is AFR or timing when you're driving. Like I said, EGT is basically a "something is fucked up" gauge.

You're still not going to get accurate temps having it in the dp. Its needs to be pre-turbo in the manifold...preferably on the runner of the hottest cylinder.

I agree it is easier to look at a simple needle than read a constantly changing digital readout while driving, but can't you set up "alerts" on the dashhawk? I would think a big flashing light would be a better way of knowing something is wrong than looking over to the center console and reading your gauge.

Seriously, I'm not trying to say EGT gauges are stupid. They have their time and place. However, when you have a tool that can monitor everything accurately, and tell you exactly what is happening and what may be going wrong, why would you put your faith in something that is nothing more than a beef thermometer?

The thermometer may tell you your food has reached a certain temperature, but will it tell you the bacteria content in the food? No. The dashhawk does just that.

The highest reading I have gotten is about 1700 deg F at WOT. That is where it peaks on the gauge and will hold that temp at WOT.

Well if you reach a certain temperature you can KILL all the bacteria lol thats just biology. You can set warnings with the dashhawk yes, but not with the AFR or timing as those go up and down too much so a one value warning wouldn't work. Ex. I set the AFR warning for 12.5, well cruising it would go off all the time. Multi stage parameter warnings was supposed to be implemented in the dh until they pulled support.