DCR Engine build FTW !!!!

[flyrevs2]

OK y'all know my engine blew. (if not see this link) Darrell Cox Racing has my car now and they are going to re-build my motor and do some magic on it. This thread is to update the status of the build and also get advice from others who are more experienced in this area than myself. My goals are super reliable forged DD with 330WHP or so (more would be cool but I'm not sure if my budget will allow it). No autoexe, no drag racing, just a go fast DD.

New Parts:
Wiseco Pistons and Pauter Rods
DCR Exhaust manifold
Cobb Catted Down Pipe

Turbo:
GT2871 or Garrett t3/t4 or DCR re-worked - Looking for advise on this !

Clutch:
Spec Stage 3 plus -

Used Block (thanks Randy).

I hope you guys will give me some good advice on the clutch / turbo. Thanks!

[mazda.speed3]

Sorry to hear you blew. Looks like your going places now..

[Target:STi]

if youre building it, go with something bigger than a 2871

[JumpingJackson]

I wouldnt use Arias pistons either.. Get Wiseco or CP pistons, and move to a T3 flanged turbo. (the Mazdaspeed flange really restrictive)

Id get like a T3/vband GT3076r or a Bullseye/Borg Warner .55 A/R S256

[subparpunk03]

I've heard nothing but good things about the ACT Organic clutch. Several people have the 6 puck sprung and say its not bad at all either.

Don't skimp on the turbo... if one of your goals is reliability, MAKE SURE it is water cooled.

[flyrevs2]

Originally Posted by Target:STi if youre building it, go with something bigger than a 2871

well bigger is ok, but I really don't want a lot of turbo lag

Jackson - what's the issue with the Arias pistons ? On the Vband Garrett, how much lag? And is that an external wastegate ?

[JumpingJackson]

I dont think the lag would be too bad if you have a good T3 manifiold (see DCR's manifold , possibly Steedspeeds new revised design manifold) Go look at ATP's webside for different housing options. IF your worried about spool get a smaller AR:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=GRT

Id get the .63 A/R Vband GT turbine housing

If im not mistaken the wiseco pistons have alot more features built into them off the shelf than arias. you really should speak to your engine builder about this.

(moly coated skirts, the best piston rings, lots of other stuff)

[mazdaj]

just curious, what is your budget for this build? or rather, what will dcr charge you for their work?

[flyrevs2]

Originally Posted by mazdaj just curious, what is your budget for this build? or rather, what will dcr charge you for their work?

Well it's premature to talk about what DCR will charge because all the details are not worked out yet. However I can say that his price to re-build the motor is very reasonable. Since all the options (head work, machining, manifold, etc. are not know yet the price is yet to be determined. THere are a lot of assumtions but until the motor comes out of the car and DCR has examined it it I won't know. Best bet at this point is to talk to Palerider as he is the liaison with DCR. My budget started at "think $3k to $4k" and now it's $6k to $7k. The number has increased as I have added performance parts (forged rods & pistons, exhaust manifold, clutch & pressure plate, downpipe, BT etc.) If it gets much over that my wife will be puttin a serious hurt on me.

[taf0422]

I second that...


...and I got beat to the punch

[dcphantom]

Originally Posted by flyrevs2 Well it's premature to talk about what DCR will charge because all the details are not worked out yet. However I can say that his price to re-build the motor is very reasonable. Since all the options (head work, machining, manifold, etc. are not know yet the price is yet to be determined. THere are a lot of assumtions but until the motor comes out of the car and DCR has examined it it I won't know. Best bet at this point is to talk to Palerider as he is the liaison with DCR. My budget started at "think $3k to $4k" and now it's $6k to $7k. The number has increased as I have added performance parts (forged rods & pistons, exhaust manifold, clutch & pressure plate, downpipe, BT etc.) If it gets much over that my wife will be puttin a serious hurt on me.

I'll bet it goes over that budget. Cars will do that to you

[djuosnteisn]

Originally Posted by flyrevs2 ...My budget started at "think $3k to $4k" and now it's $6k to $7k....If it gets much over that my wife will be puttin a serious hurt on me.

Is that your wifey in your avatar?

[Laloosh]

if your getting a manifold that accepts t3/t4 get a real turbo...get a garret turbo DIRECTLY from garret. 3076 would be my choice at your goal level.

[aaronc7]

50 trim ball bearing!

[flyrevs2]

Originally Posted by Laloosh if your getting a manifold that accepts t3/t4 get a real turbo...get a garret turbo DIRECTLY from garret. 3076 would be my choice at your goal level.

Why not the GT3071 ? (T3 flange and 2.75 inlet). The 3076 has a 4" inlet and that opens up a whole new can of worms for me. Remember I'm not building a drag machine so I think the 2.75 would work out for my application. Thoughts ?

[SSinstaller]

Originally Posted by flyrevs2 Why not the GT3071 ? (T3 flange and 2.75 inlet). The 3076 has a 4" inlet and that opens up a whole new can of worms for me. Remember I'm not building a drag machine so I think the 2.75 would work out for my application. Thoughts ?

Stick with the larger compressor housing unless space is tight. The 4" inlet will flow better..

[SneakyP86]

I myself got a Turbonetics 50 trim T3/T4 hybrid,watercooled with the ceramic bearings 63 A/R and a 57# wheel. If you go with a different turbo dont half ass it make sure you go with the water cooling and ball bearings not journal. I would rather have a little lag in the lower RPM's and the boost hold longer in the higher RPMS myself. I mean if your going wot what good does it do you if the turbo kicks in say around 2K if your revs arent dropping down below 4k during your shifts which might be at the upper limits of a quicker spooling turbo......at least thats my thinking anyways........but I've been know to be wrong afterall I've been divorced twice.........LMAO

[Laloosh]

Originally Posted by flyrevs2 Why not the GT3071 ? (T3 flange and 2.75 inlet). The 3076 has a 4" inlet and that opens up a whole new can of worms for me. Remember I'm not building a drag machine so I think the 2.75 would work out for my application. Thoughts ?

why does a 4 inch inlet open up a whole can of worms. Just get a 4 inch inlet and run the stock sized intake. Thats about all it changes. The reason i suggest the 76 is cause it spools a lil later and will be able to carry out power up top, where it matters. Its your car, keep in mind though i had a gt35r on my ms3 and the spool up wasnt that bad, however it make its peak power till 6700 rpms. when your on it, racing around, tracking it here and there, no1 give a shit about downlow tq, its all about top end.

[martyxattack]

i agree with t3 flanges. or go all vband. that shit would be awesome. i hope to see this as the standard in the near future.

[spiker98]

Good luck keeping it under 10K!

[flyrevs2]

Originally Posted by djuosnteisn Is that your wifey in your avatar?

No but it could be soon !

[davesxx01]

Looks like you'll have a possible future wife to be proud of!

Keep us in the loop on your DCR build also!

[subparpunk03]

While we're all offering up opinions... Why not a 3082
Garrett GT3082R GT3040R DBB Turbocharger Turbo .82 A/R T3 In 3" V-Band Exhaust Housing

Thats what I would have run if i didn't get a sick deal on a 3071. As it stands I'm planning to swap the garbage ATP hotside for something T3 and V-band.... with a 1.06 A/R. It'll flow and it'll spool... not like a 35r and not like a 3082, but it'll do enough for me.

[SSinstaller]

Originally Posted by subparpunk03 While we're all offering up opinions... Why not a 3082 Garrett GT3082R GT3040R DBB Turbocharger Turbo .82 A/R T3 In 3" V-Band Exhaust Housing Thats what I would have run if i didn't get a sick deal on a 3071. As it stands I'm planning to swap the garbage ATP hotside for something T3 and V-band.... with a 1.06 A/R. It'll flow and it'll spool... not like a 35r and not like a 3082, but it'll do enough for me.

Everything I've read says that CHRA is poorly sized, and it's just as slow to spool as the gt35, but without the extra compressor flow...

[subparpunk03]

Originally Posted by SSinstaller Everything I've read says that CHRA is poorly sized, and it's just as slow to spool as the gt35, but without the extra compressor flow...

Really? I haven't found much about it, except I know Blouch makes one too. I'd be curious to take a peek at any reviews you've found. Guess its a good thing I went ahead and grabbed a 3071?

[samsel450r]

i vote for the gt3082R.

[mz32quick]

Do they still have your car?

[RC08MS3]

everything iv'e read about the 3082 says if your gonna get it, just get the 35 because itl have the same spool time but the 35 will make more power

[DCLXVI]

3071 will meet your DD needs, and wont put a 550hp claim over a 300hp car, like the 76 and 35r will. the 28 isnt meant for these cars built, it holds up fine with just bolt ons. built and with a 3071 you should have no problem staying safe at 325whp and with the ability for safe improvement. a 3076 would be my choice, because it spools only 500rpm later than the 71, which i consider that 500rpm is the big blow up range for these engines. boost and power later on, and less fear of popping driving around getting groceries. also, why dont you look into DCR building up your low end, so when you're driving with the regular old mzr out of boost, you're still making more power than before. all the mods for these cars so far seem to take away from the low end, and put all the power to the top end. which is good for FWD and its traction, but my 6 would appreciate the wheel spin down low