delete EGR without CEL
 

Hey guys i have been getting the EGR CEL for like a week now off and on. i have read into how to clean the EGR Valve and the line and i have also read into the EGR delete threads. i have an idea on how to delete EGR and have no chance of throwing a code. hopefully i wont sound like a tard....... do you think that will work

1. cut 2" out of middle of tube going to EGR valve
2. put a 90 degree adapter on the "intake" side and add another 2'' or so of tube and then add a little air filter on.
3 weld up the "exhaust side"

this way the valve will get air and never throw a CEL and i wouldnt be sucking exhaust into the intake.........thoughts.....

Insufficient egr flow will come back. Accessport can make the ecu not log p0401.

I saw this thread title and though it was a "brownie who did not research" thread.

sorry yall dont get to hate on another brownie but why would the EGR flow come back? if anything there would be more flow because its ait from inside the engine bay instead of pulling from the exhaust........

also.....i dont understand why the ferret slide video was posted but it is funny.....

Won't be enough. Try a bottle. Of Techron, I just posted in my egr how to thread.

i am going to clean out the system tomorrow but as a step to never have to deal with the EGR again after that i would ghetto rig/cut/plug/filter. i dont see why it wouldnt work. ive got all the crap that i need to do it just wanted to see if anyone else thought this would work..

take us on your journey and do a how to.

Wouldn't that be letting air into the system as well? And as for the filter, you have evidently not seen your tailpipes lately, your going to be changing that filter probably every oil change from how gunked up it would get. And you will probably end up with the CEL anyways. But hey maybe your onto something.... Let us kno how it turns out g/L

pretty picture...

it wouldnt be filtering the exhaust..... check out the sweet pic.

Um the exahaust comes from the egr valve n out into the manifold. In your picture the gasses would exit the egr and float out the filter thus filtering the gases.

Edit: and if you're pic. is backwards then you would be letting unmetered air directly into your intake manifold.

yea, my picture is backwards....... and the air would be monitored the same as if it were from the exhaust.

The valve opens and closes letting a specific amount of gasses into the pipe n into your manifold. How would air from your engine bay be metered? The manifold would basicly be sucking as much air as it wanted leaning out your afr and doing bad things to your car. And if thats the case then shutting the valve closed on the other end will still be as if it were clogged and trip the CEL.

From everything ive read, the EGR Valve is only used when the motor is cold anyhow.... im never have and never will get in my car when its cold and stomp on it. that seems to be the only "issue" you might have... running a little lean

1) too much fucking work
2) Cobb Accessport and jbr block off plate for $500 total (used ap for less than $500 if ya go VIP).
3) do it an write a how-to like Hungus said.
4) block it off. live with cel.
5) clean egr. Live the dream. Ps, if ya use my how to (ya stole my pic) then go VIP since it helped you out.

http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/sto...products_id=91

please see here...just sayin..

Yes that is correct. But you still basicly have a hole with a filter on it in your manifold letting un registered air into it wether its idleing, cruising, WOT or shut down. Extra air make a lean afr. The manifold side is just a hole with a pipe in it, the valve is in the egr, so how would you stop air from getting in. Thats why in all the egr block off kits it litteraly puts a plug in that hole cuz if not your basicly got a very large vac/boost leak.

i got the stuff for it today and it only cost about 15$ its not that much work. cleaning the EGR seems like it will take 5 times longer than it will to put this setup on. so if it keeps me from never having to clean it again it will save a bunch of time and headaches. on the other hand if it doesnt work, i have a jacked up tube and will need to find some superglue..

i just hate looking at the check engine light and i dont have the funds to get AP right now so block of plate and AP is a negative

yea, i did steal your picture and yes, it did help. i need to donate real bad. im suck a freaking tight wod. maybe itll be a mazdaspeed.org christmas present. :)

It takes all of about an hour and a half. Ive done it twice already its not difficult at all. I think your over thinking things and not thinking other things thru. Regardless good luck and let us kno how it turns out.

alright, will do. ill probably just start another thread if it works/turns out good. stay tuned for failure.

so as i was taking everything apart i realized there are several flaws with this idea.....

bottom line, i need to buy a JBR EGR plate and an AP and call it a day.

good learning experience tho.

3 gallons E85 per tank for a month.
CEL gone.

::edit::

It's winter, so if you're on E70 in your area, run 4 gallons.

Why don't you just cut a piece of metal, put hole in it for the bolts, and put it between the egr and tube....

Oh and just deal with the code.

I tried to tell you...

How did this guy think this would work?
Everything sid3ways said was spot on.
You'll be left with a gaping hole in your manifold.
Ever watched egr duty cycle?
I does it's thing a LOT more than just when it's cold.

@Tokay444

Magic, obv.

I don't see why anyone would take it apart when E85 fixes it though.

Yea I was wrong about it not doing anything when it's cold. Pretty much the only time it's not functioning is during wot from what I've read. My cel isn't always on so it's not that aggravating. It came on a few months back too and went then went away.
It was wierd to me to today when I pulled all the egr crap off and there wasn't even that much carbon build up. Deffinitely didn't seem like enough to cause problems.
I cleaned it anyhow and cycled the Valve and still have the cel. Wtf .
I also ripped off my nipple.
The boost solenoid nipple that is. Nothing some super glue didn't fix.

Did u clean the valve, pipe and the u turn in the block?

Cold weather will re-trigger the egr cel if it has not been fixed.

Do you guys remember the dudes name who had a new gen 2 and put an intake on and broke the nipple on his boost control solenoid...I can't find that post. Anyways my point in saying that was his buddy did the install and broke it and didn't tell him, then his engine blew from over boosting, so get that fixed ASAP.

I remember one of my first posts:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...p-issue-93894/

It's super glued and gorilla glued and then used some flexible glue stuff. Should be good. I'll check it often. I will not pay like 70 for another plastic piece of crap

Yea ..

You better have a boost gauge. Many have gone down that path of glue before. Won't last. I saw one in the fs section not too long ago.

nope, no boost gauge..... f my life

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...st-grrr-65327/

This is the one I was thinking of, then he posted a week later that he blew his engine...he used gorilla glue as well.

I ordered a prosport premium boost gauge with warning light in case of overboost. I also put some plastic adhesive bondo type crap on it today. It's made by the jb weld people. I check it at least once a day until I get my gauge in. I don't see it being a problem but the gauge will give me peace of mind.

It's a good thing I used super glue and gorilla glue and flexible glue junk and plastic jb welded the whole end of the solenoid. It says it withstands high heat. I hope so. It's super close to the turbo