Did first oil change@ 370 miles
 

Changed the oil on my new 09 today, had about 370 miles on it. I let it warm up to operating temperature and then sit for about an hour as I got things ready. Oil was still very warm. I let it drain until there was nothing left coming out other than a drip every now and then.

I've seen in a few places that people have various oil consumption issues. So I thought I'd post what I found.

Some things worth mentioning.

1) Oil was a tad over the full line with the factory fill

2) The drained oil had much more gas in than I ever expected.

3) Filled with 5.3 quarts. This put it exactly on full.

I bet that many mazdaspeeds are being overfilled with oil, especially people that take it to the dealer for service(my 08 Mazda3 was overfilled when I took it for dealer service). This can definitely contribute to oil consumption issues.

Just some Friday ramblings, enjoy your weekend.

370 miles damn you didn't even break the car in yet

did you switch to synthetic?

i posted this link a while back when the speed was new..er

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

haven't had one problem since "knock on wood"

Ive been in service more for this shitty BOSE stereo then engine problems and maintenance

My cars build date was 8/29/08. So the oil was pretty old, not to mention people aren't even sure WTF Mazda uses. Switched to full synthetic 5w30 Penzoil Platinum..never been a Penzoil user but figured what the hell.

Thanks for the link. That's kind of how I do. Run it hard and try to vary the RPMs. I've had a couple engines built by 2 different pro engine shops for mustangs and they both said to run them hard. My favorite response from one of the shops was the guy laughing and saying "gun it".

i see why you changed it who knows how many test drives and when that oil was actually put in your car. I have been using royal purple the last two changes and i think im going to try Rotella 5w40 or 5w30 no smoking for me but id rather not smoke, well see its a few thousand away

I've thought about 5w40, but I'm wondering about warranty issues if something goes and they see the wrong weight(for the US anyhow..) oil.

When are you supose to do the first oil change? My car is missing the owners manual. So I don't know but was thinking 1000 miles.

Owners manual, from what I saw flipping through it, only talks about how to drive it the first 600 Miles. Interestingly, it doesn't say anything about changing the oil except for normal service. You'd think if those 600 miles were so important they'd want you to change the oil.

Granted I might have missed something. Either way, anyone who buys a brand new turbo car and drives it 5k miles before it's first change is much less cautious than me.

Do you have a new Mazdaspeed3 that didn't come with a manual? I'd make the dealer get you one.

I disagree with changing your oil that early but it is up to you. They put additives in the oil from the factory that aid int he break in period and have been designed specifically for it. You are not supposed to change oil until 5k, however, it is your car and you can and I hope will take care of it in wahtever way you feel best with. I do agree with running it hard some when it is new to help the piston rings set.

What I will do is wait untill about 4k and change to dyno oil then at about 8k I will switch to synthetic. If you switch to synthetic right away it will take a long time to your engine to loosen all the way up. I would say that you would see change in power and gas millage all the way up to around 20k miles now.

Oil could sit in a new engine for years and be fine. There should not be any contaminants in the engine yet or if there are it would be at a very small level. I tend to buy oil in bulk and will have some on hand for over a year sometimes. Never worry about it at all as there is nothing to mess it up. Older engines sure you need to change the oil if it has been sitting for a while but not new engines that should still be clean.

Now you said there was gas in you oil. That would really concern me. Are you sure it was gas? Maybe it was the additives that Mazda puts in it. I am not sure as I have never seen oil that came out that early but if you still have it you should probably send it in to be analyzed. I would be interested to see what was in the oil anyways and will probably send my first oil in just to see what is different.

Good luck man and I think you will be fine and it probably will not really effect anything over the long run I just have a different opinion, that is all.

switched to synthetic at 10k did conventional oil at 2k and 6k car runs strong now problems

You mentioned the oil was still warm when you did the change. It could still be slightly expanded which is what happens to oil when heated. That would explain the stick showing over the line.

As for the fuel in the oil. It is a well known fact that these engines experience massive fuel dilution. This is the reason so many opt for catch cans.

I disagree with not changing the oil sooner. There's a lot of particulate created during break-in and I don't trust the stock oil filter for the first 5k miles. You can check the BITOG forums for OEM oil fill samples.

There are people who have have UOA on the factory fill. You can find them on bobistheoilguy. I don't think anything has been mentioned about additives from those UOAs. What additives do they put in and where did you hear this?

Oil in a bottle has not been exposed to contaminates yet. I completely agree on bottled oil. I have Mobile 1 in my garage that is at least a year old that will be going in my other vehicle sooner or later(have some Amsoil too). Oil in a 10 month old, 370 mile engine has been explosed, arguably much more per mile than the average engine.

If we are going by the book, Mazda says to change the oil in 4 months or 5k miles, whichever comes first. Theoretically my car was overdo.

I didn't send off a UOA unfortunately. When you do yours, please post it up here for us, also make note to the company that you want to know what has been added to the oil if they can figure it out.

That's my take on it, and thanks for your input. You've peaked my interest now in asking the UOA guys if they find anything.

Most factory fills with have higher moly and assembly lube content, just from the manufacturering process. When I had my S2000, we had found that Honda did in fact use a factory fill with a high moly content, so guys would add a can of Mr Moly if they changed their oil "early".

I'm using Rotella T Syn 5W-40. I'm not concerned about warranty issues because I've got UOA's to back it up, which is much more than the dealer would ever do to try to prove me wrong. You can't beat going to Pep Boys with a $10 off coupon (internet) and buying two 4 qt jugs of the stuff for $30. :)

Did you start the car to allow the oil filter to fill with oil and pressurize? The cartridge oil filter holds about 0.5 qts.

You'll notice if you check the workshop manual, that an oil change without a filter change takes roughly 5.5 qts. An oil change with filter change (allowing the filter to pressurize), takes 6 qts.

Since we aren't using spin-on oil filters, we can't prefill the filter with the half a qt of oil, so you have to start the car to allow the oil filter assembly to fill with oil (thus why there is a moment where the oil pressure light stays on prior to turning off).

I think many owners are checking the oil level prior to allowing the oil filter assembly to fill up...they then assume the car is at a "high" oil level if they put in the mazda recommended levels. Of course its high, the cartridge assembly hasn't been filled with oil yet!

This (imo) is why there is so much debate about how much oil to put in the car whether you have a stock car, a BSD car, a spin-on converstion car.

Ah yeah assembly lube is definitely in a factory fill, that is for first start up reasons and not necessarily for the entire life of the first fill at least from my experiences. That's an interesting note about Honda, guess they were planning for a redundancy if the machine assembly messed up. I've heard at least one Audi car says to not change early.

Excellent idea on the UOAs. I can't help but think they would still try to screw you over, but that's the negative side of me ;)

Checked after 5 minutes idling and then after driving 40 miles. Right on full. Checked cold and hot.

Granted there are variables like level of car during drain etc, but I cannot see anyway these cars can take 6 quarts after a fill. I did let it drain for a very long time since It was my day off and I had nothing better to do. It was nearly bone dry as far as that is concerned.

I'd be willing to bet that the 6 quart fill is on a new dry engine, and the inconsistency is due to some oil being trapped in various parts of the system. That is of course assuming 6 quarts is not just a mistake. Like I said in another thread, this would not be the first car to be off. Contour SVTs and DOHC Cobras of certain years are like that too if I remember right.

I bought an 09 about a month ago and just changed the oil with 2k on the clock. Every motor that I ever built we always changed the oil around 1.5k for proper break-in. 1500 miles on a oil change has carried over from the old flat tappet cam days where it was vary important to break the cam in correctly. So I am not so sure that its super important to change the oil so early if its never specified in the manual. I agree with the link on how to breakin the motor. Thats how I broke in my last turbo motor and it ran fine.

Here's how I determine when my MS3 needs an oil change....

I get a small sample of oil from the car, spread it out on a kitchen plate, then I move the plate around to see how quickly it moves from side to side. Then I run my finger through it against a clean part of the plate and note the clarity. I then set it down and throw a match to it... if it burns slowly, I know I'm good, if it explodes, it means I have fuel dilution and I need to change it....

I'd like to clarify that I didn't make this thread to tell people to change their oil at 370 miles, I was only using that as a reference point for the factory fill in regards to my findings. If someone is happy running the factory fill for a year+, more power to them.

I was more concerned that many people let the dealer change their oil, and the cars could possibly be overfilled. The manual is pretty specific about possible engine damage if oil is overfilled.

There has been concern over these engines having knock, and excess oil making it to the cylinders destroys the effective octane rating.

If people are running around with overfilled crankcases, it could possibly play a role in this issue.

I put 5 3/4's quarts of penzoil platinum 5w30, puts it right at the full line. I had a friend work on my car once and he put exactly 6 quarts, that was way too much, read higher than max on the dipstick and I'll never put 6 quarts in again.

My dealer tells me that he does NOT suggest synthetic in my 09 Speed3.

This coming from guys that use 5-20 when the manual calls for 5-30.

You'll want the extra protection from synthetic.

the person you spoke to at your dealership is an idiot and if i were you i would not take my car there to be serviced

Your dealer (as is usually the case) is wrong.

Will an extra 1/4 quart really cause any problems?

Depends on a lot of factors. In some engines it can promote more oil consumption through the intake track. This lowers effective octane rating of the combustion. Lowered octane rating can cause engine knock which destroys pistons and rods, or if your lucky just lifts the head.

Will it affect the Mazdaspeed3 is the real question. It seems people with OCC have proven these engines love to suck oil into the intake track. The last thing I'd want to do is add to that.

So what is the best way to drain off a small amount of oil?

I recently had my oil changed by the dealership and meant to ask them to just add 5.5 liters, but forgot, so it is showing above the max line.

I'd imagine that the majority of MS3s are probably running a bit overfilled.

Pop the drain bolt off the filter housing and let it drain the oil out of the filter.