Dirty Valves Were Dirty

[ms3blackmica]

blowtorch?

thats genious!

be back later !

[Ziggo]

Diesels also always have pretty high velocity over the intake valves because they don't have throttles so it's tougher for gunk to settle.

I don't think increasing head temperature will clean them without warping the head but it would probably help keep them clean in the first place. You might be able to make a map that would clean them but it needs to get up to ~900*F to do it. Would need to idle at 3000 to get oil pressure up, run maximum VVT and as retarded timing as you can and keep it running.



Zigatapatalka

[alien_sporez]

Did you do the DIY method (HOW TO: Clean your valves - easy & cheap) or some other method?

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by alien_sporez Did you do the DIY method (HOW TO: Clean your valves - easy & cheap) or some other method?

I did not have a blast gun, so no..

Although i plan to invest in one for next time i clean.

I just used B12 chemtool with my own little process, I mentioned it a few posts back

Originally Posted by Ziggo Diesels also always have pretty high velocity over the intake valves because they don't have throttles so it's tougher for gunk to settle. I don't think increasing head temperature will clean them without warping the head but it would probably help keep them clean in the first place. You might be able to make a map that would clean them but it needs to get up to ~900*F to do it. Would need to idle at 3000 to get oil pressure up, run maximum VVT and as retarded timing as you can and keep it running. Zigatapatalka

the only issue i have with performing such a procedure is the gunk and buildup on the valves going into the combustion chamber.

i'd much rather close the valve mechanically, clean & remove the gunk

[Lex]

Originally Posted by Ziggo Diesels also always have pretty high velocity over the intake valves because they don't have throttles so it's tougher for gunk to settle. I don't think increasing head temperature will clean them without warping the head but it would probably help keep them clean in the first place. You might be able to make a map that would clean them but it needs to get up to ~900*F to do it. Would need to idle at 3000 to get oil pressure up, run maximum VVT and as retarded timing as you can and keep it running. Zigatapatalka

And partially plug the exhaust and watch the exh manifold get cherry

Once you burn the stuff to a crisp it can safely be ingested in the combustion chamber. When it's unburned and hard is when it causes damage.

[Ms3_Miami]

Originally Posted by ms3blackmica Yeah i did the EGR block off around 45k (i think) miles..I now have 59k. If you wanna know what I did in regards to cleaning...I removed the valve cover so i could see the position of the cam lobes to ensure 100% valve closure. Once i knew the valves were certainlly closed, I went ahead and poured some B12 in there. 1. Used a long flat head screwdriver to scrape the gunk off. 2. Shop Vac it up, Spray compressed air (My tank was at 150 psi), pour more B12.. 3. Scrape again (dont forget to clean the stems) 4. Shop Vac it up, Spray compressed air, pour more B12.. 5. Once all the main gunk is off, I used various picks to the scrape and pick off remaining carbon buildup (with B12 in there while picking). The compressed air helps a LOT.

I dont feel comfortable removing the valve cover yet lol Cant I just turn the crankshaft and get them to TDC?? And I'll try to get a compressor from my uncle

@tddvrrn; I was reading in another thread that the metal hairs from the brush can fall while cleaning the valves. Did you encounter this problem??

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by Ms3_Miami I dont feel comfortable removing the valve cover yet lol Cant I just turn the crankshaft and get them to TDC?? And I'll try to get a compressor from my uncle @tddvrrn; I was reading in another thread that the metal hairs from the brush can fall while cleaning the valves. Did you encounter this problem??

Valve cover comes off so easily. Just remove the coil packs, then the VC bolts, and just lift it up. I suppose you would be able to see when the valve closed and seated but I am just picky about the way I do things so i removed it so I could see the position of the cam lobe.

In regards to the brushes, yes the thin wires of metal will come off of the brush when you start scrubbing hard. I tried it on one valve and many wires were falling off. I shop vac'd it up and blasted with compressed air. I really did not like seeing that, so i did away with the brushes.

Plus they really did not do much...This gunk gets hard and needs to be scraped/picked off.

[Ms3_Miami]

Originally Posted by ms3blackmica Valve cover comes off so easily. Just remove the coil packs, then the VC bolts, and just lift it up. I suppose you would be able to see when the valve closed and seated but I am just picky about the way I do things so i removed it so I could see the position of the cam lobe. In regards to the brushes, yes the thin wires of metal will come off of the brush when you start scrubbing hard. I tried it on one valve and many wires were falling off. I shop vac'd it up and blasted with compressed air. I really did not like seeing that, so i did away with the brushes. Plus they really did not do much...This gunk gets hard and needs to be scraped/picked off.

cool thanks for the info. I'll see if the guys want to do a Nator FL valve cleaning day

[tddvrrn]

@Ms3_Miami; i did not have any problems with wires coming off. i used a gun cleaning kit and those brushes were burly as fuck. plus, i vacuumed the shit out of the runners 5,000 times, so i wasn't too worried.

[theurgy]

Yeah I had an engine cleaning kit instead of a gun cleaning kit and it worked great.
In fact I bought this kit:

20 PC Engine Block Cleaning Brush Kit Brass Steel Nylon | eBay

That said, what ms3blackmica says is true.. the brushes only do so much and I had more success using picks and lightly scraping them.

That would break away the larger pieces and I would spray and vacuum them up.. finally once the runner was dry spray some compressed air.

As for cranking the engine to TDC...
I just took all the coils and spark plugs out and cranked the crank bolt until it the valves were visibly seated.
Then I poured a bit of gasoline in the runner and waited to see if anything leaked through.
If it didn't then I knew it was fully seated.. if it did I would crank just a little more.
Once fully seated I would tape up the open valve runners with masking tape and start spraying the Zoom cleaner and let it soak.

[tddvrrn]

yeah, the brushes i used had burly wire shafts, so the were almost like picks as well. plus, i used some coat hanger and various screwdrivers.
those valves were so fucking burly. at first i was worried i might break them. after 10 mins i was like, 'where's the drill?'.

[ms3blackmica]

It would be pretty hard to break the valves just scraping/picking them.

The brushes really did nothing for me...Honestly the best thing they did was help to clean behind the valve stem as i could wrap it around the stem. Other than that, it did pretty much nothing for the caked on gunk.

I just pulled my valve cover off since it only takes 2 minutes and i could see when the valves were closed by position of the cam lobe

[scubasteve711]

Ugh, I really need to do this...

[SC08Speed3]

I have definitely got to MAKE time to do this..I got my car with 55K on it and know have around 83K...I bet mine look horrible!!lol

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by scubasteve711 Ugh, I really need to do this...

do it

Originally Posted by SC08Speed3 I have definitely got to MAKE time to do this..I got my car with 55K on it and know have around 83K...I bet mine look horrible!!lol

i could not imagine

[Stretcher]

Originally Posted by SC08Speed3 I have definitely got to MAKE time to do this..I got my car with 55K on it and know have around 83K...I bet mine look horrible!!lol

mine is just under 190k km and I'm pretty sure it's never been touched...

I'm piecing together the compressor/media blaster to make it happen that's for damn sure!
eric

[SC08Speed3]

Originally Posted by Stretcher mine is just under 190k km and I'm pretty sure it's never been touched... I'm piecing together the compressor/media blaster to make it happen that's for damn sure! eric

Damn.. I'm almost positive mine have never been done either!

I am planning on doing a lot of "preventative" maintenance all at once! This is definitely at the top of the list..I'm also considering doing the EGR delete/OCC at the same time..I'm just undecided on which one i want to go with!

[Stretcher]

It makes sense to install an occ and egr delete if you don't have one already. Why help those valves get dirty right after cleaning them! I'm in a local group-buy for jbr parts where I am ordering the egr delete kit, throttle body/intake manifold thermal insulating gaskets to all do at the same time. A local guy is also pioneering a double occ which I am hoping to jump on
eric

[ms3blackmica]

OCC and EGR delete will help them stay clean for far far longer

[theurgy]

You might as well do some injector seals at the same time.

[kritz]

Originally Posted by atvfreek God damn, those fuckers were dirty. Meth from day1 or bust. Haha

Need to do on the new Pu!

[SC08Speed3]

Yea, I'm definitely sold on the fact that i need an OCC/EGR delete! From what I've read on here, it would be wise for me to do the injector seals while i have the IM off..?? I am planning on going big turbo at some point..

[theurgy]

If you're all going through all that trouble, do an injector seal replacement as well as a PCV Valve Replacement.

[Lex]

Originally Posted by theurgy If you're all going through all that trouble, do an injector seal replacement as well as a PCV Valve Replacement.

I wouldn't personally consider the injector seals a preventative maintenance item.

[theurgy]

What would you consider it Lex?
I'm just curious as to your opinion in this.

[tinboi479]

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355967238.340317.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1355967254.856942.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1355967271.922509.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1355967288.705867.jpg

So I finally have the time to clean them and here they are at 90k

[sidekick]

Originally Posted by tinboi479 Attachment 86075Attachment 86076Attachment 86077Attachment 86078 So I finally have the time to clean them and here they are at 90k

I would expect so much worse after 90K. Do you have after pictures?

[Pseud0logik]

Originally Posted by tinboi479 So I finally have the time to clean them and here they are at 90k

I would have expected worse as well. Mods? OCC or EGR delete?

[tinboi479]

Sorry no after pictures. It was my first time doing it and it was not a smooth process. It took me the whole day to do it I was irritated so I just cleaned it and put everything back on and I forgot to put a sensor back on the manifold which took me forever to figure out why my car wouldn't start. I don't have an OCC or EGR delete but I'm planning on doing it soon. My current mods are SRI, TIH, FMIC, COBB EBC, and upgraded mounts. That's pretty much it for motor mods.

[BAT-man]

Do you guys finish cleaning the valves by having them slightly open so that you can really clean the ridge/edge of the valve that seats against the head? I feel like t would be important to brush the valve rim so that no gunk gets between then valve and the head, to avoid compression loss issues...

[mr.speedy3]

Originally Posted by ms3blackmica B12 chemtool, picks, and some other various tools from the random tools drawer. Flat hades seemed to work best for the inital scraping of the heavy layered gunk. Then shop vaccing and blasting with compressed air. Not as bad as you'd think you just have to be aggressive and go to town on them. I will deff. be investing in a media blaster though for the next time around. Shit I didn't think about that, but it would be very unfair lol Its all 50's from now on here

Invest in meth. Meth will clean your valves, no removal required

[atvfreek]

Originally Posted by mr.speedy3 Invest in meth. Meth will clean your valves, no removal required

Meth is not spraying all the time. And most of the crud is made during cruise. Once it's baked into the valves, meth won't clean them. It does help, but actually getting in there and cleaning them is the only way to make them clean.

[lilred]

Originally Posted by atvfreek Meth is not spraying all the time. And most of the crud is made during cruise. Once it's baked into the valves, meth won't clean them. It does help, but actually getting in there and cleaning them is the only way to make them clean.

Meth sprays at boost...

Solution, boost all the time! Haha

I have often said this as well, while meth may clean/help it is only while the meth is present which honestly is not long at all. @Joe Isuzu; still needed to get in there and clean them the ol fashion way.

tapafuck

[jdmage_mx5]

Originally Posted by BAT-man Do you guys finish cleaning the valves by having them slightly open so that you can really clean the ridge/edge of the valve that seats against the head? I feel like t would be important to brush the valve rim so that no gunk gets between then valve and the head, to avoid compression loss issues...

I would think there is a higher risk of damaging the seal trying to get that thorough with the process.

[glockman25]

What about pouring sea foam on the valve and letting sit for a bit? Anyone try that ? If any leaks down into the cc then into oil pan just do a full oil change after it's said and done?

[pzr2874]

Originally Posted by glockman25 What about pouring sea foam on the valve and letting sit for a bit? Anyone try that ? If any leaks down into the cc then into oil pan just do a full oil change after it's said and done?

B12 is the same thing, just more potent.

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by glockman25 What about pouring sea foam on the valve and letting sit for a bit? Anyone try that ? If any leaks down into the cc then into oil pan just do a full oil change after it's said and done?

I tried that as well.

Neither seemed to work any better than the other.

[theurgy]

Mazda Zoom Cleaner worked well for me.

[squilliam]

thinking about cleaning my valves this Saturday, but i don't have a shop vac or air compressor. i heard you can remove the liquid with a fluid transfer pump from harbor freight, can anyone confirm this?

[mg446]

I Really need to do this, 75k never been done. Can i get everything i need to do it from harbor freight?