too much boost and too low timing.

back in may, after I hydrolocked, I got these numbers with HF gauge
160/165/140/160 dry
175/170/150/165 wet

wood dowel and sharp pencil showed no badly bent rod
no vibes in clutch
been driven relatively easy for 3K since then

I have some fresh plugs on the way, I plan to use my caliper to get more exact with the rod check, and redo comp test and do the leakdown thing.

might be I popped ringlands?

Do a leak down.

buying the HF tester today
dry, and warm for the test?

Dry for sure.
I would give it about 20 minutes after shut down.
I usually let it sit for ten, and then start tearing it down.

done,

well done friday, after the plugs show up

Had a bit of time this weekend so I did some boost leak testing and a compression test. Car has 57300 and was completely cold.

1-180
2-180
3-179
4-179

i did a comp test in utah (roughly 4500ft asl) at 90,000 miles

every cylinder was 162. ill take it

Two months ago I did a compression test with a autozone gauge... I got 165 in all 4 Cylinders, 14K on a new engine, Needless to say I was dissapointed, but hey at least numbers were consistent, so finally today i got a brand new gauge and decided to try this again... really happy with the new results, Numbers are DRY on a somewhat warm engine, didn't do a wet test

So I did mine after I experience a cylinder 2 misfire. Did compression test and it said fuck off. 150,30,150,150 tested warm .

Did the test on Sunday. Been wanting to do it for future references. Have almost 90k miles on the slow thing. Did the test about 10 minutes after I parked, drove around for about 20 minutes before. I want to believe the numbers but not sure, I might get another tester and see what it reads. Should I maybe consider a cold test? Only got to page 13, going to read rest later.


Top left: passenger
Top right: passenger middle
Bottom left: driver middle
Bottom right: driver

You're golden.

Yeah I hope so haha. Kind of a dead thread too. But I still wanted to post my info.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

this thread is never dead. it just slowly accumulates info

MY 30PSI CYLINDER 2
 

Well I've gotten the block and head back from the machine shop now I'm just waiting on my bearings to come in the mail then i'll begin the assembly process. I never got around to showing the problem with cylinder 2 but the picture below will explain all. :madfawk:

Yeah... same cylinders (2, 3 or both), same spot (the end towards the exhaust valves).

cyl one 195
cyl two 198
cyl three 195
cyl four 200

Test was last month at 96,000 mi. Used Craftsman tester. This was prior to installing FMIC and going from stage 2 to stage 3 cobb OTS map. See sig for other mods. Live in Florida. Drive it like I stole it almost every day, but always take it easy on warm up and cool down. Change oil every 5K mi, always synthetic, 5w-40 Rotella T as of late.

I was absolutely thrilled! Especially since I'd like to get at least another 100K mi and/or five more glorious years out of this wonderful car.

If you wanna keep that compression the way it is, I suggest you get a real tune.

That is the next thing I plan on doing. Don't want to take any chances. Plan on going with Stratified @Lex;. Def won't do any track days or anything too crazy until then. Been trying to keep the revs below ~5K in the mean time.

Edit: Just wonder if I should clean the intake valves before getting a tune? Perhaps @Lex; can chime in? 100K miles, and never cleaned the valves. Already have an air compressor, just would need the walnut media and the blaster tool.

if you are able to do it then you should. mine at 50k were pretty horrible

your intake valves will be HORRIBLE, just a common issue with any DISI, Mazda, BMW, Audi, VW, etc.

Yes clean them before investing in a tune if feasible. It will run like a new car.

I personally bought Walnut media and a blaster on Amazon, made a plate out of 1x4 MDF using the IM gasket as a template, put two holes in each runner location (one for the blaster another for vacuum) and went to work with each cylinder at TDC. Just like the dealerships clean them.

Interested - about how much did the parts/media cost you, and how much time to do it?

I had this done at 100k miles, with great results. Been thinking of it again as I am at 206k.

let me amazon that for you

media..I got a larger bag but this lil guy would be plenty for a number of valve cleaning jobs.

Amazon.com : Frankford Arsenal 881538 Arsenal Brass Cleaning Walnut Media : Hunting Cleaning And Maintenance Products : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com: Campbell Hausfeld AT1226 Sandblasting Kit: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: Campbell Hausfeld AT1226 Sandblasting Kit: Home Improvement

Thanks - not bad. If A person was pulling the IM anyway, seems smart.

Well this wasn't exactly how I was hoping my first post would play out but here we are. I've been navigating around the forums just taking all the info in since buying the car last Novemberish, investing in an ap shortly after. Six months later I'm here with compression and leak down numbers..

Cyl 1: 175, 11% leakage
Cyl 2: 176, 6% leakage
Cyl 3: 155, 27% leakage past the rings
Cyl 4: 175, 7% leakage

Dont worry, I'll see myself over to the build diaries..

At least you're paying attention. Odds are good you can recoup with minimal expense since you've caught it early, just plan for .020 over with the parts and research reputable machine shops near you.

Do most end up needing to bore? I've been hoping to get away with just honing as I'm looking to stay away from forged pistons with what I'm looking to get out of the car reliability and power wise.

From what I've read it seems sticking with the stock rods is a bad idea though.

At these compression values I'm 100% sure you will not have to bore. However, expect to have cracked ring lands so do not buy just rings, get pistons and eventually (why not?!) rods as well.

Your rods aren't what got you into this situation - it's your ring lands (most likely, possibly a filthy valve not fully closing, didn't read the rest of this thread), and if you want more substantial ring lands, you will want forged pistons as well.

Your best bet if you want to get by on the cheap is a buy a reman from Edge and sell your long block. It's worth (a lot) more to the used market than it would be for the $450 core refund. They have a $50 option for a 3 year unlimited warranty, a no brainer if you go that route.

2013-56k miles

SRI (Stock size), Catless DP, CPe Triton CBE, Autotechs, Freek OTS+, Original Spark Plugs, Roughly 90% of miles highway. T6 for it's lifetime.

Cylinder 1- 180
Cylinder 2- 175
Cylinder 3- 180
Cylinder 4- 175

I started losing oil a few weeks back, seems the K04 is not liking the catless DP. CPe TMIC, JBR 3" Intake, BNR S3, and CPe Manifold are on the way. Gonna let Mr. Hypnotic do a full tune on it.

Cleaned the intake valves since my last compression test, and boy what a difference it made in performance and drivability!

I am currently on the first version of my pro tune with Stratified Automotive Controls, so decided to do another compression test today:

195
198
198
196

Once again, I'm thrilled with the results. All the while I was running the Cobb OTS map I never really saw any KR over 2, and trust me, I watched that shit like a hawk. There was only one exception when I got a bad tank of gas from a mom and pop station while traveling in the mountains, and my KR went up to 5.3, so I just took it easy until the next fill up, and sure enough, it went right back down.

Now that I'm running the first iteration of my stratified map, my KR has been below 0.8 so far. I know the tunes start out fairly conservative initially, but that is still pretty impressive, none the less. Kudos to Stan, @Lex; and everyone else at Stratified!

Within the past month or so I finally got around to upgrading my smoking K04 to a BNR s3. Prior to install we cleaned the intake valves and they were dirty as hell. Did the injector seals and all that jazz. Got it all back together and before I really started tuning I wanted to get a comp test since I have 87k miles on the car. Did the test and my numbers were pretty shit. 170,150,150,170. So I took it in for a Leakdown yesterday. His numbers were 160,150,135,160 with leaks coming from the intake valves. Said I need to have my head machines and reseat the valves. But after talking with some people here it's possible my valves are still dirty where they actually seat since you can only really clean when the valves are down. I'm just trying to figure out what to do exactly... On one hand is to start saving for rods and pistons and machine work. I have people here that will help me build, but the machine process and parts is $ I just don't have at the moment. That damn cylinder 3 is such a pain. Looking into what I can find about porting/machining the stock mani to try to avoid this issue in the future as well as meth. But that aquamist kit is looking pretty infeasible at the moment if I have to sell my first born to build this motor. But I guess the good news was it wasn't showing leak at the ringlands?

Edit: How can one safely clean intake valves while open to clean where they actually seat and from a seal?

Cylinder #3 being lower is quite consistent with what we've seen so far in these engines. The heat either indicates more wear in the rings on #2 and #3 or even leads to ring lands cracking for those two (usually starting with #3 ).

So I'd say, if the car runs good currently leave it as is and don't do any more work to it as you can invite more problems in the game. Save for pistons and rods and have the head cleaned up when you pull the engine for the rebuild.

70k on the clock mine tested out to be 180, 180, 178, 180. Funny enough it's #3 that's misfiring as well. Only problem is I can't remember if the 178 was on 2 or 3. Numbers are dry, didn't test wet.

Might have the valves cleaned at the dealer once I salve up some cash, no time to do it myself.

Now that I've finally got around to tearing the motor down after seeing 27% leakage past cylinder 3, I don't notice anything too dramatic. I was expecting a cracked ringland but it doesn't look to be the case (at least without a closer look).

Is that kind of leakage possible with just bad rings? Being my first go at a rebuild I'm not sure if there's anything I'd be able to see that would be a telltale sign for the bad compression.

Was the car running funny at all? It could just be a worn engine if you don't find anything suspect. Maybe check ring end gap if you feel like it, check if the cylinder is out of round.

Everything was running fine, I wouldn't have even known there was a problem if I didn't do a compression and leakdown test. I did start getting some knock at higher rpms shortly after, though it could be unrelated as I didn't see any knock prior to running the tests. I guess I just figured with the usual cylinder 3 issues I'd see something obvious.

Was it all leaking down through the crank case? Could injector seals have been a cause? Even at 30%, I probably wouldn't rebuild unless there were other problems. Did it burn oil?

Yeah there was a swift breeze coming from the oil cap haha. Injector seals looked fine but I'm replacing them regardless so we shall see. It didn't really burn oil, just needed topped off once between changes. As far as it really needing to be rebuilt I'm not sure, but it needed the timing components, valve cleaning, and downpipe so pulling the head was convenient enough with the extra pistons and rods I have.

Addin' to the madness finally.

Mods are in Sig.

Cyl 1: 180
Cyl 2: 170
Cyl 3: 180
Cyl 4: 185

Ran immediately after getting the vehicle up to temperature. I'm thinking about doing a leakdown.

Did another tonight after an oil change (and another warm up)
Got:
Cyl 1: 182
Cyl 2: 175/178 (2 tries)
Cyl 3: 182
Cyl 4: 185

I did a couple extra cranks on all of these this time. Interesting.

You are golden. How many miles on your engine?

There's about 40-45k on the engine build. 60k on the whole car.

Edit; I want your bumper, in and around my mouth. lol done jacked mine up on the track.

AND Also going to do a leakdown once I get it from @maisonvi; I'll report back.

Whaaaa??

You saying WHAAA to the length of the build or that I want to lick your non-jacked up bumper?

1 month ago:

1: 155 / 10%
2: 155 / 10%
3: 150 / 10%
4: 155 / 10%

Compression numbers are obviously low due to not engaging the gas pedal during startup. :facepalm:

Tested this morning. 60500 miles. Engine was completely cold.

1 - 181
2 - 180
3 - 180
4 - 180

Crazy, I've only driven 3000 miles in the last 5 months.

One update on mine - still getting oil consumption despite strong numbers. We're pretty sure it's worn oil control rings.

Stock motor at 145k miles. I retired it at 161.5k and it had seen 22psi from a 5858 from 124k to the day it was pulled out. (still ran great)http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/...psdbnybyp4.jpg


Built motor at 3k miles
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/...psjpwzrnhv.jpg

Stock motor, simple bolt ons with hpfp internals and Catless dp. 75k currently on motor. Had dp and internals on car for about 5k miles. Did my compression test yesterday while car was still warm. Pulled necessary fuses and all Spark plugs. Held down Clutch and gas while cranking.

1 - 188
2 - 190
3 - 189
4 - 188

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Stock motor and turbo @ 95k. Hpfp internals, gutted cats, Cai and tip,


Dry: (130) (120) (110) (130)
Wet: (150) (150) (140) (140)

Leak down results
Cylinder 1 = 28%
Cylinder 2 = 33%
Cylinder 3 = 36%
Cylinder 4 = 32%

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Damn

Just did mine it april and had
1-180
2-180
3-180
4-180

Car has 77k with all bolt ons and meth

I'm sure the last guy that owned this car raped the shit out of it. It's all good though.... "We will rebuild".

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Is that motor leak or valve leak?

It was leaking into the crank case.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

2010 with 81k mods in sig. Stage 2 since 65k and bnr since 75k. First time testing.
Looks pretty consistent around 190 in every cylinder. Performed the test at operating temp.

Sitting at 46 k drivin hard highway miles. Tuned at 9k on e85.
196,197,200,200

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01...e7097d6a8e.jpg
Did this today.
GTX2871, CPE TMIC, 3.5 intake, UR catless TBE, and EGR Delete. I'm switching to an S4 within the next month.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

With 157K miles

#1 = 180
#2 = 150
#3 = 125
#4 = 180

2010 speed3 stock at 85k km..
Dry
cyl 1 - 170
cyl 2 - 150
cyl 3 - 160
cy 4 - 190

wet
cyl 1 - 185
cyl 2 - 180
cyl 3 - 190
cy 4 - 190

2008 Mazda 3 MPS
The only power mod: Cobb SF + Cobb TIH + AP selftuned

134000km
~180 all across

195600km
PCV valve replaced, EGR cleaned. Manual intake valves cleaning with Wynn's stuff and cylinders/pistons/rings de-coking procedures for 6 hours. Different compression tester.

Compression before/after:
1 - 145 / 188
2 - 159 / 145
3 - 188 / 188
4 - 188 / 188

Leakdown test before/after:
1 - 75% / 7%(!)
2 - 65% / 70%
3 - 15% / 15%
4 - 17% / 14%

2008.5 MS3 GT
102,XXXmiles
No bolt ons (only mods; suspension, rmm.)

Dry: 175/174/174/170
Wet: 179/181/179/180

I was a happy, happy man today. Having the VVT and timing chain serviced, then tuning to head for 200K. Would love to keep this car for the long-haul. Always regretted selling my '03 SVT Focus, and I won't be making that same mistake again particularly since my motor seems solid.

Also, hello. I think this might be my first post.

Welcome - and congrats on having such a happy car!

Just hit 72,000 miles

1 - 180
2 - 180
3 - 180
4 - 180

She just won't quit.

Good! What oil are you using and how often the changes?

Since day one Mobil 1 10w30 with OEM Filters (sometimes Napa Gold). I change every 3,000 miles.

2007 MS6 with 111K miles. Engine up to temp/ dry test.

My fairly new compression tester read:

Cyl 1: 180
Cyl 2: 180
Cyl 3: 180
Cyl 4: 180

Autozone rented shoddy compression tester read:

Cyl 1: 165
Cyl 2: 165
Cyl 3: 165
Cyl 4: 165

What would you believe? The autozone comp gauge or mine? Either way, I'm stoked.

Yours.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Even if you believe both and compute an average, 172PSI across the board is an awesome number for this mileage.

So the usual question: what oil, how often?

Got the car July 2015 at 80K miles from original owner. Older family man that drove it for work and took great care of it. Clearly. I've never launched, drag raced (ok once against a cobra mustang F body and won) or beat on it.

I took it home and put in Rotella T6 5W-30. Changed with same every 3K-4K miles.

Saturday when I did the test I put in Penzoil Platinum Euro 5W-40.

My turbo seals are leaking into the intake and exhaust at the moment. Just bought a 70K mile K04 to replace it with. Can't afford the BNR S4/V2 with supporting mods right now.

2006 MS6 with 96k, 27k fully bolted with an S3. Engine wasn't quite to temp and did a dry test.

Cyl 1: 148
Cyl 2: 148
Cyl 3: 148
Cyl 4: 148

06 MS6 62K on motor. Stock, besides TurboSmart BOV.

170 - 0 -175 - 185

Currently troubleshooting and praying for a burnt valve :censored:

2010, 60k miles, full bolt ones, big turbo and meth. 195-195-195-195

190 across all 4 with all of the mods in my signature. E85 50/50 tuned by RichTune since 7k miles and E85 all I have ever run.

155 for all four, warm + dry. No mods.

138k miles gen1 MS3. Autozone compression tester. Seems a bit low, but I'm wondering if that could be the gauge???

Could be the gauge, altitude (what altitude are you at?) or the compression itself. The consistency is what matters in this case.

182-185-185-182 today.

Oh nice! How many miles on the clock at 26 psi, and is it a stock block?

~50-60k and yes stock block.

That's inspiring :D

Irony time...

It appears that my #3 rod finally decided it had had enough. It appears to have bent on me...

Oh well, I still had thousands of pulls with the stock engine at those power levels...

I've been rocking 1-4: 140-150-110-160 for about 10k miles of moderate-hard use including multiple auto crosses and what can be considered one track day. Car drives fine and doesn't burn a significant amount of oil. I'm just gonna keep going as I have been, if it makes it to another summer I'll rebuild it, if it blows up earlier I'll buy a block.

Wow that is ironic! Thank you for being on the front lines and pushing the limits of the stock block:) Going to build now?

No. Car is for sale (cheap).

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ml#post3146399

It served you very well though.

Got some interesting results on the used 2009 MS3 I just bought. A little backstory first.

So, I have an old compression tester. Probably 15-20 years old, typical gauge plus a flex line with a couple adapters. I've had a misfire on cyl 3 (P0303) the last few days, so I warmed up the car for 10 minutes, then pulled the TMIC, pulled the spark plugs (see photo), and hooked up the battery charger. Started with cylinder #1 , and got 185 PSI. Was pretty happy with that result.

https://i.imgur.com/Mihx5OEl.jpg

I go to remove the tester from cyl #1 , and the hose just spins -- the crimp fitting down near the threaded end is just spinning around. I futz around with it for 30 minutes before cutting the hose, jamming a long screwdriver down it, and getting the threaded fitting loose.

https://i.imgur.com/aqZFb9Hl.jpg

After hitting 3 separate parts stores, I finally find the kit I want, that has a 14mm fixed extension (Bosch FIX 7828). I get back home, still want to finish the compression test, but I'm not really looking forward to reinstalling the TMIC, warming up the car again, and then removing the TMIC for another test. I figure, it's 90+ degrees out, and I have access right now, I might as well try a cold test and see what I get. This is what I got on a somewhat cold engine, using the new Bosch gauge.

Cyl #1 - 200 PSI
Cyl #2 - 200 PSI
Cyl #3 - 195 PSI
Cyl #4 - 195 PSI

Did I mention this car has 173,000 miles? Is this result believable at all? I thought cold results would typically be lower than warm results, no? Or was the fact that the car sat for a couple hours in 90+ degree heat not really enough for it to cool off, and thus it was still a warm test?

How many miles on the spark plugs? Also 173k? :)

Noticed that, did you? :)

Got a new set of NGK Laser Iridium (95369) going in today, hoping that clears up the intermittent miss in cylinder 3.

Incredible comp test result. Those spark plugs! Damn.

New NGK plugs are in, so far no misfires, no codes. Going to take it in for the VVT actuator job tomorrow as the dealer quoted me $900. Feel a bit silly for having put Rotella T6 in it a week ago, but oh well.

2008 ms3 90k no mods (Resonator delete) just bought less than 2 months ago compression results cyl1-114 cyl2-121. cyl3-100 /120 wet cyl4-120 have been starting to smoke at idle after 10 min but no oil consumption that worries 10fl oz each oil change cheap Pittsburgh compression tester was used so maybe it’s off? Any comments to these results? (other than poor maintenance and non productive comments)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Smoke at idle is probably turbo bearing seals - a well-known problem with the stock K04 turbo on our engines. At 90k that turbo, if OEM is probably due for this.

While compression seems a bit low, this may partly be a low reading gauge. Cylinder 3 is usually the lowest, and yours is. If you are not going to mod the engine this may be fine for awhile. It is worrisome. Can you rent/borrow another gauge? Did you get wet numbers on all four? Did cylinder 1 come up?

You might want to have a cylinder compression leak down test done.

You, sir are a slime ball. The quote from ten years ago said “cam cover”, not camera cover. Camshaft. WTF did you alter it?

Darth has no been here in years.

Mods, check this guy’s other posts. All misdirection spam.