Hmmm, that actually might work. While it's parked, just buy oil/filter every two/three months. And would it matter if I'm on coils? I have stock springs and front struts but I don't have rear shocks. What about motor mounts? I feel like no matter what I do, they'll find something to void the warranty.

The last time I stocked someone out, we took off his coils because he was selling. I really hate doing suspension work. I highly doubt they can deny you for having suspension work. I am sure you can find a stock intake mani on the for sale threads.

The mounts have to be swapped. The only thing that can stay is the fuel pump internals.

Sent via blown passenger side speakers.

I'd pull the internals anyways. They may replace the pump for some unknown reason, and then you're out $300+. It only takes 15 minutes to swap internals.

I have a stock fuel pump you can use and I know someone that might buy your intake mani from you and give you his stock one.

@Spoc;

I'd definitely throw stock internals in there, exactly why silvapain said.

Also, this isn't the thread for this, I'll PM you @himurax13;
This might work out better then I thought.

EDIT: @Micha; I'll sext you. Swapping mani's would work perfect, I'd give him my JBR gasket too and use his stock one. I have my on internals still.

All you have to do is get the Stock Catback from @lilred; and you are set. :)

Let me know what you guys think please. I started to smoke about 2 weeks ago since then I've added a JBR OCC with VTA kit (still waiting on Check Valve), a BNOON Bolt, and Rotella 5w-40. The other mods are in my Sig. So after these modifications I'm still smoking so i decided to do a compression test.

08 MS3 60,500 miles 862ft ASL
#1 191
#2 172
#3 171
#4 171

I think if it was 170's across the board I would be ok with these results but with cylinder 1 being so much higher I don't know what to think? I'm hoping the check valve will help maybe my PCV valve is junk which is causing me to smoke. If not then I hope its just the turbo. Do you guys think it might be something else with the compression results above? Thanks for any advice!

How warm was your engine when you did the test and did you crank until the needle stopped?

Engine was up to Temp, I cranked it until i heard about 4 pumps of air.

That's your problem.
Crank till gauge doesn't move.

Shit just got it all back together Thank you i will update after i test it again.

Okay, after re testing the compression it is higher but there is still a 20psi difference in cylinder1 and the rest of them. Other info a couple posts above. Thanks.

#1 192
#2 172
#3 171
#4 171

Thanks for the tip, now what are your thoughts?

The prognosis is not good. It is a 10% difference. A little more and I would be getting ready to take some action.

How does the car behave, aside from smoking turbo syndrome?
You're technically still in specs. I wouldn't worry too much if the engine is running fine.
Sorry if I missed some information somewhere.

The car runs fine other than the smoking, I figured I would run a compression test to make sure the rings were ok. It seems to have good compression just a big variance from 1 and the rest of cylinders. I hope your right bc a turbo is much easier to replace than internals. Thanks

Leak down test should be your next step.

Well i just did my first compression test. Car is a 2011 genpu with 57,000 miles. Basically fully bolted around 20,000 and BT at ~52,000. Results are as follows.

(Passenger Side)
Cylinder 1: 174
Cylinder 2: 183
Cylinder 3: 184
Cylinder 4: 184
(Driver Side)

I was going to test cylinder one again to confirm the slightly lower reading but after the engine cranked a few times I blew the hose on the tester kit apart. It was a rented autozone kit though so w/e. Do you guys think I have anything to worry about at the moment?

5% difference, and the gauge is probably only accurate +/- like 3-5% so I wouldn't worry about it IMO

Nonetheless, I am pretty excited that cylinder 3 isn't being a little bitch.

Those results look great!

did my MS6 and CX7 last night while changing oil in both.
My car has 40k and got 190s on all cylinders
CX-7 has 70k and got
1:180psi
2:180psi
3:150psi
4:180psi

Weird that oil level was perfect in CX-7 but I was down a couple of quarts in mine a week or so ago. I started a job that is a 100mi/day commute so I figured it would be a good time to make sure my car was up to the job.

GUess I need to sell the cx7

How many miles? Warranty? Was engine hot? Did you do a wet test?

Sent via blown passenger side speakers.

TL: DR Which relay do I pull to do the compression test?
Injector or Fuel Pump?

I don't pull anything. I just keep the clutch and gas floored while cranking.

Sent via blown passenger side speakers.

^that

As these guys just stated. I just mash my gas pedal to the floor. That shuts the injectors off, as its a factory "clear flood" mode

Sounds good, I jest remember the last time I did a compression test I had pulled a relay of sorts.
Isn't this similar to the procedure to pressurize the fuel rail?

Yes. I also don't pull fuses for fuel internal installs either.

Sent via blown passenger side speakers.

Well my results should be posted later today.

Results:
1-4 (left to right)

1: 165
2: 170
3: 160
4: 165

As I stated CX7 has 70k so it is out of Mazda warranty. I have a 100k warranty we bought with it when I got it from carmax but doubt they will do anything for me.
Engine was warm, but it is clear cyl 3 is fucked. Wet test as in with fuel on? no pulled INJ relay. Or wet as in spray oil in and see if numbers go up to determine if rings bad? I guess I can do that. I just cleaned intake valves at 60k so I doubt there is a problem with them sealing but who know. Could do a leakdown test but not sure what this will tell me also. Car gets 14mpgs so have been wanting to get something new but owe 11k so its not like I could sell it and buy a new car with the profits. Wife wants a minivan but they dont get great mileage either. But either way I think we should get rid of the CX7 soon...

Sounds like a plan.

Sent via blown passenger side speakers.

cleaning the backs/stems of the valves won't do much for the seats.

So your saying there could just be a piece of gunk on the seat causing it not to seal? I guess adding oil and retesting compression and doing a leakdown will tell me what it is better?

When I cleaned my intake valves on another engine I could not get one of the valves to seal as the B12 would always drain out overnight. However it obviously did get clean after I ran it as it now has 180psi... so it is def possible that its just gunk.

It could be, but keep in mind that valves rotate during normal operation and that helps keep the seat clear of debris like that. It is always possible though.

Alright I did a leak down test and pushed oil out of the dipstick while testing cylinder 2 so it looks like I'm gonna have to build the motor?

Huh?

Sent via blown passenger side speakers.

While performing a leak down test on cylinder 2 oil started coming out of the dip stick tube. I'm pretty sure it did that bc I put my finger over the valve cover vent so the air had no where else to go so it pushed oil out.

Here is my post from a couple of days ago.....

Okay, after re testing the compression it is higher but there is still a 20psi difference in cylinder1 and the rest of them. Other info a couple posts above. Thanks.

#1 192
#2 172
#3 171
#4 171

Thanks for the tip, now what are your thoughts?

Soooooooo dipstick was removed from tube?

Yes to see if I could hear air coming out of it while doing a leak down test.