I had the 3rd cylinder at 125, rest around 155-160 with very loud grinding VVT, (the second VVT to be replaced) yet the chain wasn't ticking at all. 169000mi, mostly all highway miles. Other than that nothing ever went wrong with the car since I bought it in 07. Turbo is still good. Did timing chain, VVT and rings.

Finally got my MS6 put back together. Used mostly factory new parts. Cold compression on the refreshed motor was 150 across the board prior to the first start. After 700 miles it is now 170 across the board at operating temp.

what did you do?

I had two cracked ringlands. I posted my compression results earlier in the thread. Ended up installing new rings, headbolts, headgasket, set of used genone pistons, and Toyota injector seals.

Hm, how much miles did you have? Did you do any honing at all?

Did the ringlands scratch the walls at all?

Have 85k, about 17k on the 3071. Did a hone with fine stones only. There was a very light visual scratch on one of the cylinder walls but I couldn't feel it. After the hone it was gone.

Well did mine today... 110,000 MS6

From driver side to passenger.

172
159
163
170

:disappointed:

it's not even that bad :)

seems about right for 110,000 miles

Yeah you're golden. I'm at 184000 with pressures around 150. Still life left in it. Going through a quart about every 4000 miles , but she runs smooth.

Thanks for the confidence guys. I know the numbers are ok, it's just getting over the fact that she is getting old and stuff needs to be fixed. I'm noticing that the car Is louder when idling. Had the vvt timing chain replace 10k Ago

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Photos For Grins.

There are some brand new killah builds with less compression than that.

really? Then I dont feel so bad about my results. I guess I could call my "matrix built" hah

Update for my car. Last results were on September 27th, 2013 @56,000 miles. Fully bolted, e85, and meth...188, 183, 183, 190.

Test done today with the addition of a gtx3076 and cpe manifold tuned to 416whp @ 22psi and 71,600 miles...205, 205, 195, 205. Needless to say, even if the gauge reads a bit high my compression is absolutely on point because of my tuner @ms3blackmica;

78K Compression Check
 

Finally did a compression test on my 09 Speed3. It had 45K when I bought it, 78K now.

190 187 190 190

Also the Autolite XP plugs looked GREAT after 28K! So good, I put die electric grease on boots, and re-installed them. No oil in intercooler.

I have been worried after all the stories here, but decided I needed to know! Happy I checked!

Runs solid, and uses zero oil in-between changes.

How much did that run you and did you do a rebuild? I have 2 low compression cylinders and I want to know if I need to go rebuild rout or new engine rout

sent while granny shifting and not double clutching like I should.

About $375 but I got the pistons for free

@Familyguy427; think I can get away with this being that my rings are bad?

sent while granny shifting and not double clutching like I should.

Had time to test this morning after changing my motor mount.

Car was only driven for 5 minutes before the test so it wasn't completely warm. I'm about to roll past 50,000 miles. This is also my first compression test after my etune with @Lex; that was about 2000-3000 miles ago. Since then I've been enjoying the WOT life.

1 - 175
2 - 175
3 - 175
4 - 173

Good stuff.

So you wanna cheap out by throwing in 2 pistons with rings? If you have to pull the motor apart, you might as well rebuild it properly.

Just did mine last Friday.

2011 Pu with 90k kms (~56k miles). Mods: fully bolted k04 (minus DP). Stratified tune by @Lex; - 91 octane (no E85 in my part of Canuckstan).

Dry:
cyl 1 @ 180
cyl 2 @ 185
cyl 3 @ 187
cyl 4 @ 190

Wet:
cyl 1 @ 195
cyl 2 @ 195
cyl 3 @ 192
cyl 4 @ 200

I've been getting some clutch vibes for the past few months. It happens as all other threads about this subject already explained (only whenever you press the clutch about an inch down). I only get the "vibes" while on throttle.. As soon as I release the throttle, vibes cease immediately.

I therefore decided to also to a piston height test using a depth gauge.

Cyl 1 @ 45.43mm and Cyl 4 @ 45.55mm (TDC)
Cyl 2 @ 45.59mm and Cyl 3 @ 45.49mm (TDC)

Now, I had measured with a steel rod first and all rods measured equally (1-4 and 2-3). When I measured with the depth gauge, as you can see, some little difference. But, I did notice that the .xxmm tenth of mm would not seem to ever stay the same as the gauge is very very sensitive.

Would you think my vibrating clutch on throttle be rod related with these numbers???

1:190
2: 190
3: 168
4: 186

- sigh

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This

i may be a fucking idiot, but which side is number 1 again? passenger or driver?

passenger cyl 1 is closest to the crank pulley

Passenger side is 1

Yea you're right. I will be doing the motor the right way once I can come across some funds. and do more research. it's just crazy to wrap my head around with so much info haha.

sent while Netflixing...

Well at the very least you should rehone the cylinder walls or the rings will not seat properly. Pulling the motor or tearing it apart on the car will cost a lot of money laborwise as it is.

Yea I have to agree with you. it's one off those things you can't cheap out on but wish you could [emoji14]

sent while Netflixing...

Thats how I feel. I'm not really interested in breaking any records but im bummed my car can't push more than 280hp even on ethanol. 400hp safe would make me happy. Got lots of research and saving to do.

Its the one cylinder that always has good compression ;)

I feel you man. I would like to hit 350 without worry since Its a dd

sent while Netflixing...

Finally did a compression test on my car.

115,400 miles, tested it while warm.

1- 180
2- 180
3- 185
4- 185

Rechecked a second time just to be sure. Only difference was 1 came up with 175. Pretty stoked right now.

You are golden! Happy trails!

What I get for being cocky?

57k miles, no additional track time.

190-188-185-168

.................

Very similar to my numbers just swap 3 and 4.

Rot rogh raggy. I have some extremely lightly used PU pistons if you want them. 3k miles at most lol

Youd need rings.

On 2nd thought, for the heat of track use id go forged. I still believe the PU pistons would have been just fine in my motor for DD usage.

@Dano; those PU pistons are just as fragile as the gen1 pistons. They do not like heat and power. Every summer we see more and more ring land failures. And they far trump the amount of rod failures we used to see

Any other symptoms? Leak down next? It does look like ring lands but would be good to confirm.