It was built.

It was beast, and it was $5200 built.
Not 2600 because I'm and idiot. And it was months ago.

$2600 Canuc Dorra > $5200 American Durrah.

Moar info on this high pressure valve flush unicorn magic pixie dust job?

What's the official name of it? I.e. if I call my dealership, what do I refer them to?

It's called the disi valve flush. If they say "wut?", it means they don't have the machine.

hahah I was going to say there was some smuck trying to sell an OE longblock on here for 2600. now that waaay too much for a used disi but I would buy a dozen built motors if they were 2600 :)


I am convinced the cold air kills brain cells....my brother moved to Grand Rapids about 15 years ago and I swear he gets dumber each year...he used to be fairly smart...i dunno...

is that a new dance move?

tokay, is that a real thing? Im planning on doing a valve clean in the spring. I have one of those inspection cameras on a long flexible head. wonder if it would come in handy

@Tokay444

bg makes a two step valve flush for direct injection motors that some vw dealerships use. probably just a seafoam or gm top end cleaner copy but who knows? wish i hadnt just changed my oil or id try it out at work.

Seafoam is drinking water compared to the shit they use in the valve flush.
@breakfasteatre, it's legit.
There's a dealer in richmondhill that does it.
One of two in the gta so far.
It's expensive, but works.
Whole thing takes about 2-3 hours.
Your camera should give you a good before and after image.

How much?

If the whole thing takes 2-3 hours, figure shop rates that's about $200 in labour.
Now parts and such for the cleaning, I'm guessing is another $200.. so if I had to guesstimate a cost, I'm gonna say $300 - $400.
DO NOT QUOTE ME ON THAT.

..

It's around 3-400 bucks.
Lol.

I would like to see what mine look like at 40K miles....20K with spraying meth...

then again to see what would happen to a newly cleaned set of valves and spraying WMI the entire time...I think I will always spray at least H20...on the E35 I don't currently need meth for fuel..right at 85% IDC.

I will def clean mine when I get the JMSD IM and see what's what.

I just did a compression test on my MS6 for the first time.
170
170
170
170

Miles: 117,8XX
Sea Level: 579 ft
Temp outside: 38 degrees

I just tested mine last night
07 MS3 60k miles. right now it has cobb CBE, i think at somepoint it also had an SRI but before i bought it

Driver
180
165
180
180
Passenger

Should i be concerned that cylinder 2 is 15 psi under the rest?

I checked my compression tonight. '08 MS3 with ~49K miles.

From left to right, it was:

128
126
127
129

I need to check it again with a different gauge/tester, as I'm not too confident in the accuracy of the one I used.

Related thread here:

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...-issues-92171/

str8 180 0n all 4

65000 miles

bt 15000 miles

26 psi

The consistency is great. I think the gauge is reading low because the power numbers you're making would not line up with compression that is 30% down.

I just redid mine:

cyl 4 (driver): 190
cyl 3: 188
cyl 2: 190
cyl 1: 190

60,000 km (37k miles)

Also remember to crank enough times - until the gauge stops going up. It can take up to 20 cranks. Remove all spark plugs when doing this so engine cranks easier.

Just did mine a couple weeks ago.

150
150
135
150
My injector seals are blown, We will see if it helps out cylinder 3

Did mine a month ago. 08 ms3 44k.

190 in all 4 and took about 6 cranks to hit that number.

30,000 km

195.190.190.195

I also have oil going into my IM.....

How much? Light oil? That's normal from the valvecover vent.

If you see a whole lot of oil in your intake tract (like in my build thread, first picture), it might be indicative of a problem.

You can have good compression results but a bad leakdown.

My boost tube looked like yours on the cold side of the TMIC

Hmmm.

Any oil consumption?

EDIT: It could also be a bad crankcase PCV.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i just put a new PCV valve and OCC in this weekend.

you're a real man when yours looks like this:

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u...794800x600.jpg

That's more or less what mine looked like right before I got my OCC...

8.5 98,000 miles. Just an intake tip and race pipe. I took the compression test while I was cleaning out the egr valve. Not real happy about the results but it is what it is. I wonder if leaving in the Balance shaft starves the middle cylinders over time.

1-195
2-180
3-185
4-208

Have run rotella 5-40 since about 10,000 miles and change every 3 to 4 thousand and have a spin on conversion. I know the valves must be filthy and plan on doing the self clean soon which I hope will help.

First of all: Awesome thread. Thank-you, thank-you, thank-you.

2007 MS3, GT25 turbo is the only engine mod. 100,000 miles.

Recently had TSB 01-004/10 done (valve cover) because oil was burning like crazy. Lots of oil in the intake tract like Snotrocket (per my mechanic, I'm not as handy as the rest of you). Did a valve/engine flush, replaced plugs (totally fouled) as well.

Added 6 fresh quarts of 5w 40 synthetic.....and 500 miles later 75% of it was gone. Not a drip on the garage floor, and the remaining oil was BLACK.

Unbelievable.

Compression Test Results:

CYL #1 - 180
CYL #2 - 170
CYL #3 - 160
CYL #4 - 180

Leakdown Test Results:

CYL #1 - 18%
CYL #2 - 7%
CYL #3 - 14%
CYL #4 - 18%

Mechanic cited "very little leakage past the valves, air is coming out the valve cover breather pipe by getting past the piston rings and into the crank case."

I'm no mechanic, but to me, that says engine rebuild b/c the rings are fried.

The part that gets me is that the compression / leak test dont seem THAT bad given what else I've seen on the thread....but the dip stick doesn't lie; I think this engine is pooched.

Also, I have no idea if my guy did the compression test warm or cold....and not sure that matters from what the rest of you have said since it's the relative compression that is more relevant.

Thanks again for the awesome thread, if you can share any more wisdom, please do! :You_Rock_Emoticon:

Update.
My compression results have gotten...
...better?!?
I had my wife do the cranking this time so I could watch the gauge.
180-180-175-190.

1-182
2-182
3-182
4-185

2k on built motor. Wiseco pistons.

How often did you change the oil and what oil did you use?

A lot of these low compression numbers coming from the bottom end could very well be the result of fuel washing oil off cylinder walls ... oil thinning ... carbon seized rings. It's a dirty motor.

Bought the car lightly used (2000 miles) and have changed the oil at regular intervals since then. Used 5w 30 until about 80k, then switched to 5w 40, always synthetic.

Anyone have a good motor for sale?

8k kms, waited for car to cool down so i could do the DP

all 4 cylinders around 180 :)

checked my compression 2 weeks ago.

#1 ~185
#2 ~185
#3 ~185
#4 ~190

I'm about to hit 66K on the motor, been running the mods in my sig for ~2 years. I've never seen oil in my TMIC or boost tubes or throttle body. motor likes Rotella T6.

IMHO, i don't think your motor is anywhere near needing to be replaced. Use a catch can, replace the PCV valve, and drive the car :)

Thanks man, I didn't think it was that bad. The oil consumption did slow down dramatically after a little more driving with the new PCV....mechanic did say it could take time for the flush chemicals to do their job.

It starts, drives, sounds fine and has good power.

Did my compression test today out of curiosity. The car is a '11 with about 28500 miles on it.
Cyl 1 - 191
Cyl 2 - 191
Cyl 3 - 190
Cyl 4 - 190
Been running on a modified stage 1 map

Decided to do a compression test yesterday on my 2006 Mazdaspeed 6; I'm currently at 102K. Results are as follow:

Cyl 1-180
Cyl 2-180
Cyl 3-180
Cyl 4-180
Currently on Dizzy 50/50 E-mix tune, and I've been using Rotella T6 for past 40k miles.

Just check my compression today. 61k miles

1: 161
2: 159
3:150
4:160

2007 speed3
I bought the car used with 45K, previous owner had intake, dp, no ap, no fp internals, and ran royal purple.

I bought the car after it was stocked out, got new turbo from Mazda, then I put on intake, ap, tip, fmic, internals, catted dp, rotella t6, 2 occ because there was oil in the intake.

I might do a leakdown on #3 and one of the other "good" cyls for comparison.






Tappin

71500 miles tests 1 & 2 were done about a week before test 3.

test #1
cyl 1: 182
cyl 2: 182
cyl 3: 165
cyl 4: 185

test #2
cyl 1: 190
cyl 2: 185
cyl 3: 172
cyl 4: 190

test #3
1 - 185
2 - 182
3 - 170
4 - 187

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...-seals-114442/

Did a compression test on the 6 for kicks:

1: 165
2: 156
3: 153
4: 180

96k miles and this car came with a BUNCH of aftermarket parts on it, but no fuel pump internals. I'm betting it wasn't ever tuned, either. Good thing I planned on building!

Cranked until the needle stopped rising? Also does it have lots of blowby (oil in the intake)?

Yeah, cranked until she stopped. Did it twice on each cylinder and came up with no more than ~2psi difference each time.

It has a little bit of oil residue in the intake system, but nothing terrible. Piston height checks out, as well. Figured I should check while I had the plugs out. The car runs well, but I'm not going to risk pushing this engine. It's seen a max of ~3psi of boost since I got it. It's been SOOOOO hard to restrain myself!!!

congrats on the new 6 phate!

I need to resume my search for one.

Just did another test 65k km or 40k miles.

Cyl 1: 195
Cyl 2: 195
Cyl 3: 185
Cyl 4: 195

These seems to be a slight increase in compression - perhaps carbon buildup on the rings. Cyl 3 has always been the lowest and continues to be so - been checking compression for the last 20k miles on the motor. Vacuum readings at idle have always been the same.

Hey Lex, do you know of anywhere local that I can get a leakdown test performed?

I did a Compression test yesterday on my MS6
1- 190
2- 190
3- 190
4 - 195

It was like 85 degrees out. Car has 70k miles

Any mechanic shop will do it. It's a pretty basic test and the tester is not too expensive as long as you have an air compressor. I work with a local shop that is pretty good - send me a PM and I get you his info.

I really need to get around to checking mine again... I still haven't confirmed with a second gauge that I'm not running ~130 psi in all cylinders. :shock:

Mine has also gotten. Better.
190-180-180-190.

I did a test about 3 weeks back

I'm sitting at ~169 in cyl. 1-3, cyl. 4 is ~166

I'm satisfied!

There is no way that's possible. Lol

ESP if they are all that even.


Tappin

...hence my sloth with respect to checking it again. ;)

:yup:


Tappin

i have a nasty knock when i accelerate( i dont drive it anymore) but i had it towed to mazda and they dont even open em up to diagnose. they do not perform deep engine work. the tech said it sounded like a spun bearing and compression was; Cyl 1 180 Cyl 2 175 Cyl 3 180 and Cyl 4 was 140 :1zhelp: im taking her to another shop wed. to further inspect. this guy will actually let me help. my vvt is bad also.

That sucks.

Just did a test, my car is still young, 19k
180 across the board.
50/50 mix since 5k, tuned by @phate

190, 185, 155, 190....... how bad is this? I tried reading the whole thread and im losing my train of thought...... ugh im nervous about this... any suggestions?

There is def something wrong in that 3rd cylinder. I would get a leakdown test to confirm but some possibilities, non of which are good are:

bent rod
broken piston ringland

do you get any vibrations when you press the clutch in?

No there is no clutch pedal vibrations, the car runs great, no burning oil, still very strong pulls, i also am still getting great gas mileage as well... i have read in this thread the oil in plug hole test which i plan on doing tuesday... im hoping its a valve problem more than anything else

Get a leakdown test done.

blown injector seal

That was also on the checklist.. im feeling more confident its not a bent rod.. however if its the piston rings its still going to cost me :/... injector seal would be optimal problem lol

Injector seals are my next install.

Late to the compression posting party, but here it is. 70,000 miles on '08 MS3, purchased new in May, 2008. Mods below. Drive it hard. Recently did the intake manifold valve cleaning (about two months ago). Full synthetic 5w-30 since first oil change. Altitude is 200 feet. Ambient temp was 92 degrees.

Did warm engine compression test last night out of curiosity. Forgot to pull the fuse on the injectors, so this is with some fuel being shot into the cylinders.

Facing engine left to right (passenger side to driver side)

#1 - 180
#2 - 180
#3 - 172
#4 - 180

I repeated #3 and got the same number. Have not done a leak down test, but I don't see 8 psi as a reason to be worried. It is something to watch and recheck. Original turbo. Never smoked. Did just have VVT and timing chain service done at dealer right before hitting 70,000. They did it free under warranty, even with my mods and no oil change records! I only flashed ECU back to stock for dealer service. Thought I'd get hit for $1200. I guess there may be some benefit from being 62 years old and not looking like the racer that i really am. lol.

70k...my shit exploded

lol @ zero compression in all cylinders.

~180 across. 81K.

@MSMS3 if you hold the gas to the floor while cranking, the injectors shut off.
Try it on your next startup.

^ Thanks! That is useful info. I intended to pull the fuse and just forgot. Will certainly follow your advice when I check compression again. I want to keep an eye on #3 and make sure it does not drop further in relation to the others.

just picked up my 06 ms6, did a compression check b4 i purchased it, 175 down the board! @phate

Sounds like you got one in good shape!

Did mine last night. Uh oh
(passenger)
175
150
125
175
(driver)

Looks like time to source a new motor!

Did you crank it until the needle stopped rising?

Yep, even checked cylinder #3 twice. Consistent 125

Do a leak down test to find the source of the loss in compression. Its possible you might not need a whole new engine.

I just did mine today. 83k on the motor.

170
160
165
165

I am pretty happy with the results.

Any update on this?

Yep.

http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/x...2CC240057B.jpg
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/x...2CCC6C1D93.jpg

[QUOTE=Jh8909;1698256]Yep.

Brand spankin new from Mazda? I recognize that box lol.

[quote=phate;1698287]Yep. Just tested to see if it works. Its got 3 miles on it. Got it for a steal. You don't wanna know how much lol

[quote=Jh8909;1698334]You're doing well if it was under $3500 or so ;)

New shit runs SOOO well, lol. Have fun with it!

[quote=phate;1698385]Well i got it from a guy that works at mazda down in maryland, traded him an AP and Autotechs for it. So $763 lol :D

LOL, AWESOME!

[quote=Jh8909;1698399]Jealous. :)

Seriously jealous.

that is redic....seriously!

good for ya

Yeah there is no rush to put it in now. I picked up a beater so I'm just gonna try to save up for now and then take it to pablo eventually and let him do his magic.

tested again after about 6k miles on the gt30

got the best results I've ever seen on any car I've owned lol

1 - 184
2 - 182
3 - 183
4 - 184

That is what I am getting on two motors. Yet to test the one in my car. Looks like both motors the intake valves dont close until TDC. Could both be perfectly off 90* of time or whatever it is? First motor is a built engine and should be perfect. 2nd has 60k on it and should be good also. Seems like user error but I didn't think I was that stupid. Tested comp tester with compressor and can get it to go up to 60 or so.

Did someone else have the same problem? I assume that is what you were quoting. Didn't have time to read all 10 pages yet.

Hold on are you doing a compression test or a leakdwn test?

Edit; re read post. The part about the compressor is what confused me.

In that case, have you done a leak down?

Tapa

Nowhere had a leakdown tester so have no way to do one yet. Both engines are on stands, not in car.

One tried with starter attached using a battery and got nothing for compression. I can look down spark plug hole on both and see that the valves stay open as cylinder comes up. This confuses me.

pull the oil fill cap and see if the timing chain is moving when you turn the motor over...if not the crank bolt/washer combo is fubared...turn the motor by hand not with a starter.

Timing chain is moving, valves are moving. Anyone ever check compression when engine is out of car?
I just got 30psi on cylinder 1. :damnit:

I feel like given your situation, a leak down test would really be better.



Tapa

never have...and to get an accurate compression or leakdown test the motor needs to be at operating temp which you cant duplicate with it out of the car. I wouldn't think it would be that low even stone cold. maybe 150 where warmed up it would be 180.

Very cool thread!

Here are my results. I did not pull all the spark plugs (did one at a time). I'll do it again with all plugs removed. Gotta nag my friend to let me get that snap on tester back !

205
200
200
200