Originally Posted by alphasaur (Post 1969383)

180 180 150 180

cranked 3rd alot with hopes and dreams.

Originally Posted by alphasaur (Post 1969430)

Yessir.

Originally Posted by himurax13 (Post 1969590)

What is your oil consumption?

Originally Posted by Dano (Post 1969574)

sorry to hear man..although not definitely a ringland at this point. I would check piston height next.

Queen - Another One Bites The Dust - YouTube

Originally Posted by alphasaur (Post 1969596)

Don't have any clutch pedal vibes if you're alluding to a bent rod. Will do a height check though.

Originally Posted by Dano (Post 1969606)

yeah it looks eerily like my compression results and mine ended up being a ringland. No idea what a slightly bent rod would look like as far as compression results go nor if it would cause vibes.

But you can drive indefinitely on a cracked ringland but NOT with a bent rod...IMO at least, so it's good to rule the rod out.

Originally Posted by alphasaur (Post 1969617)

to measure for a bent rod could I just insert a metal rod into each cylinder and mark off where it exits the valve cover? Then see if the corresponding cylinders match? Or is this not accurate enough to diagnose a bent rod? Makes sense in my head but I don't have experience working on cars other than the speed :dunce:

Originally Posted by himurax13 (Post 1969840)

Well if the bent rod is ruled out, what does one do? My leakdown test was inconclusive and my compression test was 160 accross the board. I ruled out a bent rod by neasuring with a long piece of paintball macroline.

I figure might as well start VTA the crankcase and start prepping for rebuild or stocking out and trading in. :rolleyes:

Sent via smokey turbo.

Originally Posted by alphasaur (Post 1969844)

afaik, you're looking for differences. I'd be happy with 160 across the board.

Originally Posted by himurax13 (Post 1969928)

VTA the crancase still allowed me to make decent power and mileage but I could fill up my SSP can in a few minutes.

After I stocked out, the excessive blowby caused a misfire in cylinder #4 (from bent, burned valve) and the engine went to shit in a few weeks.

Sent via smokey turbo.

Originally Posted by sidekick (Post 1970023)

A bent or burned valve isn't going it cause blow by. What did the bent valve have to do with anything? You would just lose most of the compression in that cylinder.

Originally Posted by himurax13 (Post 1970149)

The burnt valves just caused lots of smoking and oil consumption (45 psi). I suspect multiple broken ringlands causes the blowby, haha.

Sent via smokey turbo.

Originally Posted by Tokay444 (Post 1970322)

Did you put any anti seize on those plugs prior to instal?

Originally Posted by sidekick (Post 1971019)

Yes, on all of them. Why? There is a little antiseize on them in the pictures, but most of that is definitely oil.

Originally Posted by himurax13 (Post 1971041)

Yeah, that is definately not a good sign ...

Originally Posted by sidekick (Post 1971056)

Yeah, it seems that whatever is happening was probably caused by me as the old plugs I pulled had little to no signs of oil contamination. I'm wondering if the PO(s) ran low octane gas most of its life and ended up damaging a ringland. Then I came along and cranked up the boost and timing and it finally gave. Not really sure at this point though. I guess I should start selling the aftermarkets parts I have accumulated to fund a rebuild. :ugh:

Originally Posted by himurax13 (Post 1971060)

Personally I would run a vented OCC and then start saving up for the rebuild. I was able to run for almost 6 months like that and I had ridiculous amounts of oil going into the catch can. I would avoid selling all of your aftermarket parts since it is a pain to collect in the first place.

Originally Posted by sidekick (Post 1971062)

I already have a JBR OCC sitting in my room, so maybe I'll install that sooner rather than later. I can probably go for quite a while on a cracked ringland, but I'd rather build before it blows up.

Originally Posted by Tokay444 (Post 1971146)

I would just sell it and get a brz. They're at 640whp already.

Stock block.

Originally Posted by Tokay444 (Post 1971351)

Yup

Originally Posted by sidekick (Post 1970278)

Ahh, I see. I didn't realize you had a bent valve and cracked ringlands. Sorry.

Originally Posted by himurax13 (Post 1972297)

Actually I am just speculating cause Mazda recalled my motor but I haven't heard if anyone blowing through as much oil as I did. I wouldn't be surprised if my #4 had a hole in it.

I ditched my HF tester cause the guage stopped at 75. I bought a nice craftsman setup that had a customer review rating of 5 stars.

Anywhoo I tested a 08 with 110k+ miles running 21 lbs boost on a stage 1 map with K04 and 91 octane from passenger to driver side:

170, 170, 160, 170.

Installed a beaner last weekend.

Tested a 12 with less than 10k miles running a slightly modified Stage map on a K04 at around 17 lbs if boost from passenger to driver side:

168, 168, 164, 80 (87 Wet)

I told him to stock out. I am not sure how he should document this to get warranty coverage.

Sent via smokey turbo.

Originally Posted by sidekick (Post 1972999)

Well was the compression test on his car just to check over-all health of the engine or did you suspect there was a problem? Just have him tell them it feels like it is down on power and request a compression test. Lol.

Originally Posted by himurax13 (Post 1973027)

Well with all of the fail I have noticed lately, I find any excuse to whip out the compression tester. ;)

Originally Posted by SLOWHATCH (Post 2025519)

I'll be trying mine again soon. Anyone have any tricks to keep that damn adapter piece on the tester and not get it stuck every time in every cylinder? I spent hours doing my test due to this and that shit had me ready to burn my car to the ground. :feedback:

Originally Posted by SLOWHATCH (Post 2025519)

I'll be trying mine again soon. Anyone have any tricks to keep that damn adapter piece on the tester and not get it stuck every time in every cylinder? I spent hours doing my test due to this and that shit had me ready to burn my car to the ground. :feedback:

Originally Posted by Tokay444 (Post 2025545)

Just crank it tighter onto the the tester, tighter than into the plug well.

Originally Posted by skiptowncat (Post 2027163)

Done on a cold engine
110-100-75-100
What the fuck!!!

Originally Posted by Lex (Post 2027236)

Did you push the throttle to the floor, how many times did you crank, was the tester good?

Originally Posted by skiptowncat (Post 2027359)

I don't know wether the throttle was pressed. I'm going bnr soon so ill get the valves cleaned at the same time. I just hope it lasts till then.

Originally Posted by Tokay444 (Post 2027437)

Replace lost compression with more boost.

Originally Posted by himurax13 (Post 2027412)

Performing a proper compression test(and leakdown if the test results are bad) is far more important than getting a Beaner or cleaning your valves. If your engine needs a rebuild, then there is no point in doing those things.

The Beaner will put more stress a dying motor and will force a rebuild much sooner.

Originally Posted by skiptowncat (Post 2027163)

Done on a cold engine
110-100-75-100
What the fuck!!!

Originally Posted by timjs (Post 2027905)

Try a different gauge, I doubt that's anywhere close to actual.

edit:If the engine runs!

Originally Posted by Lex (Post 2027236)

Did you push the throttle to the floor, how many times did you crank, was the tester good?

Originally Posted by Metal409 (Post 887325)

Went ahead and tested my car again today. 2009 Speed3, 42,600miles, more than half of that was stage 1, car is stage 2 now. Was roughly 80degrees out when I tested, 570~ ASL.

1: 185
2: 185
3: 185
4: 185

Only did 6 cranks to get these readings, 7 on cylinder 1.

Originally Posted by scubasteve711 (Post 2063502)

Well, fighting a pretty irritating KR issue at the moment which is why this was done... At this point, I've pulled a ton of timing and it has brought KR down, but not totally eliminated it... Next step I think is going to be to determine if this is real KR or not... Car has run more timing in the past without any issue at all.

Originally Posted by Lex (Post 2063510)

Put some E85 in the tank or methyl hydrate to see if it is fuel related.

Originally Posted by theurgy (Post 2063512)

Hate to say it, but have you checked your intake valves?
I trust that you're datalogging these knock events.

Originally Posted by sidekick (Post 1968752)

My compression test numbers before buying the car:
190 - 165 - 150 - 175

I have noticed that since I started running 18PSI, it seems like I've been losing/burning more oil. Every fill up (about 1 week/200-250 miles), I lose about 1/4 of a quart of oil. I assume that is PCV related, since it only started happening after turning up the boost, but an OCC should put an end to that, if that's the case.

Clearly there is something up with cylinder #3 , but I have not done a leak down test. The car seems to run fine overall, maybe a slightly rough idle, but it also has not had the valves cleaned yet and needs a new VVT actuator/timing chain. It makes pretty good power, but @cld12pk2go; pointed out that I seem to be making lower numbers than he would expect. However, I'm also right on par with my old speed3 with the same mods in terms of crank horsepower, so I'm not too sure what to think.

Honestly, if anything, I expect it to be a cracked ringland. The oil loss and low compression point right at that. I will do a leakdown test sometime soon and try to figure it out. The best part? The dealership tech who did the test stated "the engine is in very good health" on the work order. It's pretty much outside of Mazda's specs even if you don't count the highest cylinder. It has received a healthy amount of beating over the last 3 months, so I may do a compression test next time I pull the TMIC, just to see if it has changed.

Originally Posted by BackRoads (Post 2065317)

Ok, had the techs do a comp test this morning - I am now at 165k.

155
150
155
145

I plan to put in the step-colder plugs soon, and will probably see if I can get a gauge and do my own leak-down test as well. The gauge is not very expensive, is it?

Originally Posted by Dano (Post 2064534)

+1 on the oil in the TIP. if you go the extra mile and pull it you may see oil pooling in the compressor inlet like I did but that was with a busted ringland and your numbers don't seem to point to something that severe.

Originally Posted by sidekick (Post 2065777)

Last time I pulled the TIP there was some oil entering it via the valve cover vent, but not much and it didn't seem to be pooled up in there. There is a pool of oil in the TB coupler though and my turbo inlet does not have wet oil on it, but the compressor blades are black, which I'm assuming is from oil.

Is it possible I could be consuming this much oil via the turbocharger seals and my stock cats are not allowing me to see the smoke? I suppose it even could smoke, but I've never seen it. I suppose it could also be related in some way to the PCV valve itself. I'm just not sure how I can pin point the source of the oil consumption.

I spoke to a mechanic I know and he said he had a very similar issue with an N/A 2.3, but everything was in good mechanical condition and even replacing the PCV didn't help, but Mazda didn't offer any guidance because it fell within the "acceptable" range of 1 QT per 1K miles.
@Lex;

Originally Posted by btstarcher (Post 2069166)

Isn't it usually the head gasket if the middle two cylinders are both low?

Originally Posted by cld12pk2go (Post 1969608)

I cranked over the engine about 10-11 revolutions...

Compression check results:

Driver side to Passenger side (I forget the numerical order)

182-176-174-177

4.5% delta between max/min. I can live with that at ~500whp.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j6...psde7696a8.jpg

I love these motors...

Originally Posted by ABolewski (Post 2093575)

Yes after a good long drive (100+ miles) pulled into the drive way and went to work.
I'll post up some pictures later. I have no idea how my engine still runs. So much fucking oil it's insane. I'm going to try to get another tester on it, but the one I bought was a $50 one that was supposed to be decent. Not a cheap autozone one.

Originally Posted by Lex (Post 2093595)

Make sure you crank it until the needled stops rising.

Originally Posted by ABolewski (Post 2093734)

I did, both using the starter and then cranking it manually.

And there is oil in the intake too. My engine is toast. I just can't believe it's that low and not zzb'd, I'm just staying entirely out of boost until I can store it.

Originally Posted by ABolewski (Post 2093861)

I guess it's possible to stock out, but I'd need a stock intake manifold and gasket, a cbe, and I think a EGR tube (not sure where it is).
The problem is I do not have the time to do that before I deploy.
Maybe I'll put a little more thought into it and see if stocking out is a possibility.

First, is it even possible givin I've done all of my own oil changes, and it'll still be an obviously highly modded car?

And yes, my engine was perfectly gone until Dantes tuned me.

Originally Posted by himurax13 (Post 2093962)

As long as you have the receipts for the oil and filters you will be fine. How long will you be deployed for?
@lilred; still has his oem Catback.

I decided to do a compression test with 3300 miles on the new engine.

190
188
190
186

Sent via blown passenger side speakers.

Originally Posted by ABolewski (Post 2094151)

Definitely don't have any of that shit. Hahah
And I deploy from August '13 to March '14.

The thing is I literally have no time for that at all. I have like 6 days off for the next two months before I deploy. I don't want to even think how it would be possible for me to do that.

Thanks for your help though man.