I had the 3rd cylinder at 125, rest around 155-160 with very loud grinding VVT, (the second VVT to be replaced) yet the chain wasn't ticking at all. 169000mi, mostly all highway miles. Other than that nothing ever went wrong with the car since I bought it in 07. Turbo is still good. Did timing chain, VVT and rings.

Finally got my MS6 put back together. Used mostly factory new parts. Cold compression on the refreshed motor was 150 across the board prior to the first start. After 700 miles it is now 170 across the board at operating temp.

what did you do?

I had two cracked ringlands. I posted my compression results earlier in the thread. Ended up installing new rings, headbolts, headgasket, set of used genone pistons, and Toyota injector seals.

Hm, how much miles did you have? Did you do any honing at all?

Did the ringlands scratch the walls at all?

Have 85k, about 17k on the 3071. Did a hone with fine stones only. There was a very light visual scratch on one of the cylinder walls but I couldn't feel it. After the hone it was gone.

Well did mine today... 110,000 MS6

From driver side to passenger.

172
159
163
170

:disappointed:

it's not even that bad :)

seems about right for 110,000 miles

Yeah you're golden. I'm at 184000 with pressures around 150. Still life left in it. Going through a quart about every 4000 miles , but she runs smooth.

Thanks for the confidence guys. I know the numbers are ok, it's just getting over the fact that she is getting old and stuff needs to be fixed. I'm noticing that the car Is louder when idling. Had the vvt timing chain replace 10k Ago

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

Photos For Grins.

There are some brand new killah builds with less compression than that.

really? Then I dont feel so bad about my results. I guess I could call my "matrix built" hah

Update for my car. Last results were on September 27th, 2013 @56,000 miles. Fully bolted, e85, and meth...188, 183, 183, 190.

Test done today with the addition of a gtx3076 and cpe manifold tuned to 416whp @ 22psi and 71,600 miles...205, 205, 195, 205. Needless to say, even if the gauge reads a bit high my compression is absolutely on point because of my tuner @ms3blackmica;

78K Compression Check
 

Finally did a compression test on my 09 Speed3. It had 45K when I bought it, 78K now.

190 187 190 190

Also the Autolite XP plugs looked GREAT after 28K! So good, I put die electric grease on boots, and re-installed them. No oil in intercooler.

I have been worried after all the stories here, but decided I needed to know! Happy I checked!

Runs solid, and uses zero oil in-between changes.

How much did that run you and did you do a rebuild? I have 2 low compression cylinders and I want to know if I need to go rebuild rout or new engine rout

sent while granny shifting and not double clutching like I should.

About $375 but I got the pistons for free

@Familyguy427; think I can get away with this being that my rings are bad?

sent while granny shifting and not double clutching like I should.

Had time to test this morning after changing my motor mount.

Car was only driven for 5 minutes before the test so it wasn't completely warm. I'm about to roll past 50,000 miles. This is also my first compression test after my etune with @Lex; that was about 2000-3000 miles ago. Since then I've been enjoying the WOT life.

1 - 175
2 - 175
3 - 175
4 - 173

Good stuff.

So you wanna cheap out by throwing in 2 pistons with rings? If you have to pull the motor apart, you might as well rebuild it properly.

Just did mine last Friday.

2011 Pu with 90k kms (~56k miles). Mods: fully bolted k04 (minus DP). Stratified tune by @Lex; - 91 octane (no E85 in my part of Canuckstan).

Dry:
cyl 1 @ 180
cyl 2 @ 185
cyl 3 @ 187
cyl 4 @ 190

Wet:
cyl 1 @ 195
cyl 2 @ 195
cyl 3 @ 192
cyl 4 @ 200

I've been getting some clutch vibes for the past few months. It happens as all other threads about this subject already explained (only whenever you press the clutch about an inch down). I only get the "vibes" while on throttle.. As soon as I release the throttle, vibes cease immediately.

I therefore decided to also to a piston height test using a depth gauge.

Cyl 1 @ 45.43mm and Cyl 4 @ 45.55mm (TDC)
Cyl 2 @ 45.59mm and Cyl 3 @ 45.49mm (TDC)

Now, I had measured with a steel rod first and all rods measured equally (1-4 and 2-3). When I measured with the depth gauge, as you can see, some little difference. But, I did notice that the .xxmm tenth of mm would not seem to ever stay the same as the gauge is very very sensitive.

Would you think my vibrating clutch on throttle be rod related with these numbers???

1:190
2: 190
3: 168
4: 186

- sigh

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This

i may be a fucking idiot, but which side is number 1 again? passenger or driver?

passenger cyl 1 is closest to the crank pulley

Passenger side is 1

Yea you're right. I will be doing the motor the right way once I can come across some funds. and do more research. it's just crazy to wrap my head around with so much info haha.

sent while Netflixing...

Well at the very least you should rehone the cylinder walls or the rings will not seat properly. Pulling the motor or tearing it apart on the car will cost a lot of money laborwise as it is.

Yea I have to agree with you. it's one off those things you can't cheap out on but wish you could [emoji14]

sent while Netflixing...

Thats how I feel. I'm not really interested in breaking any records but im bummed my car can't push more than 280hp even on ethanol. 400hp safe would make me happy. Got lots of research and saving to do.

Its the one cylinder that always has good compression ;)

I feel you man. I would like to hit 350 without worry since Its a dd

sent while Netflixing...

Finally did a compression test on my car.

115,400 miles, tested it while warm.

1- 180
2- 180
3- 185
4- 185

Rechecked a second time just to be sure. Only difference was 1 came up with 175. Pretty stoked right now.

You are golden! Happy trails!

What I get for being cocky?

57k miles, no additional track time.

190-188-185-168

.................

Very similar to my numbers just swap 3 and 4.

Rot rogh raggy. I have some extremely lightly used PU pistons if you want them. 3k miles at most lol

Youd need rings.

On 2nd thought, for the heat of track use id go forged. I still believe the PU pistons would have been just fine in my motor for DD usage.

@Dano; those PU pistons are just as fragile as the gen1 pistons. They do not like heat and power. Every summer we see more and more ring land failures. And they far trump the amount of rod failures we used to see

Any other symptoms? Leak down next? It does look like ring lands but would be good to confirm.

no other symptoms, though it might have just occurred. The car leaned out after I fixed that exhaust leak, I stopped the first pull at 4.5k but I was at 23psi and 13afr.

I don't have a leak down tester, maybe I will pick one up soon.

I can send you my OTC tester if you want, PM me.

Roger that. I was just thinking with aftermarket heat management like a fan controller, you might be able to stretch the useful HP range they can survive. Its a crap shoot for sure and not worth the gamble when rebuilding.

I'm really not sure if one pull could do that.

I've forgot to warm up the engine and it was too late because I had everything out so I ended up testing on cold engine.

80k/stock k04 some smoke after long idle.

1. 180
2. 180
3. 156
4. 165

Retested 3 & 4 wet and both were right on 180....FML:disappointed:

I will redo again tomorrow on warm engine.

180 on a cold engine seems high.

Up your idle to 900 and say goodbye to that smoke

Did compression today again on a warm engine....numbers were exactly the same as cold.

1. 180
2. 180
3. 156
4. 165

Wet test brought the lower numbers to 180, however, I've discovered low coolant and a little milk on my oil cap. Last summer I had water pump and coolant replaced. I don't think it could be a headgasket since oil dramatically improved those bad cylinders.

Thoughts?

I posted this in local section and just figured I would share in case anyone is wondering.

Performed a leak down test today.
Cylinder/gauge1/gauge2/%between gauges

1. 90psi/88psi/2% leaking
2. 90psi/86psi/4% leaking
3. 90psi/46psi/ SHIT LOAD(abt 46%) LEAKING coming out of the PCV/Oil fill hole
4. 90psi/79psi/12% leaking

My cylinder 3 is fucked. Most likely going forged.

I made light of it in your other thread, but that sucks. Sorry to hear.

900 miles after rebuild with SP63 10.5:1 pistons the compression is 195 in all 4 cylinders.

Did a compression test today just to make sure everything is gonna be fine when I install my BNR S3. 84k kms on the motor.

1. 180
2. 180
3. 180
4. 180

Looks like I'm good to go.

Just tested today again with a working gauge (previous HF gauges all read 120 across the board)

Fully bolted (minus Ex/Int Mani) on BNRs3v1 for the last 20k miles...going forged next year

Left to right 168, 165, 170, 173 with 118k Miles.

Looking at everybody's number, I don't feel so bad now.
At 120k I got:

1-170
2-181
3-175
4-170

@35700
1k on BT
1- 189
2- 185
3- 180
4- 186

100K miles, cold wet test

210
200
195
205

I'm thinking compression gauge is a piece of shit (vatozone) but the consistency is what matters anyway.

Cold wet test as in engine cold and you added oil? Do a hot test with no oil to get a real idea of compression.

Shouldn't the heat increase my compression reading? Correct me if I'm wrong.

1: 150
2: 150
3: 145
4: 145

Yay.

Just got my otc comp tester in the mail. 32k tuned since 9k
201
199
199
197

175 70 175 175... 24800 Miles in FL

Car has been at he dealership for 2 weeks with a blown Cylinder #2 trying to get a replacement engine under warranty =(

Metal expands with heat. Under normal operating conditions, the engine is hot and piston rings only seal properly once the engine is warmed up. Doing a compression test right after driving will give you the best picture of what your compression looks like under normal operation. You add oil to low compression cylinders AFTER doing the test to see if the leakage is at the piston ring or elsewhere in the cylinder.

Yeah that's my understanding of it and I figured that if it seals while cold, it should also while hot.

I will redo the test next time I'm working on the car.

that sounds high for stock engine

Yep but before that i had 196 with a matco tester so it is what it is.
I do comp tests every few months.

You didn't do it cold.
You did it cold and wet. Big difference.

Tested this morning to check if everything was okay after cleaning my intake valves 2 weeks ago. Car was completely warm. Each cylinder was cranked 7 times.

1 - 180
2 - 180
3 - 180
4 - 180

Most consistent numbers I've ever had. :cheers:

Bump'd

I started getting some nasty KR (over 5) on my tune which I have been running for about a year now. 3" intake, catted dp, cbe, fuel pump, forge v1, occ, had autolite step colder, switched to itv22, problem started, switched back to autolite, still persists. The car is a 2012, had about 25k when the issue arose.

I threw my maf cal onto stage 2 ots and no more knock at wot (which I'm doing significantly less of since this all started), but when I tested comp, this is what I got...

195
170 (wet was 175)
195
190

What is interesting to me is that the plug on cylinder 2 was MUCH lighter than the other 3. So for some reason that cylinder is running low comp but also much hotter than the rest.

Fwiw the engine, pedals, steering wheel all vibrate somewhat harshly at any given rpm/load/speed. I checked piston height with a 3/8" extension, and cylinders 2 and 3 are identical.

So at this point I'm speculating that it could be a valve issue, or injector seals, possibly both. But I'm still trying to wrap my mind around what could be causing a lean condition in #2 (no CEL however) All were gapped at .026, and rechecked when I tested, still .026

I don't think that difference could cause knock.

Maybe an injector issue? causing too lean conditon and knock in cylinder.

I threw a half pint of seafoam in a 3/4 full tank this morning, it seems to be running a bit smoother but I'll see how it goes as I burn through this tank. Seems that the low comp could be a symptom of the knock, which itself is caused by a fuel issue

Doing my first test, 130 dry test on the nose across the board, tested at a temp of 165. 2008.5 45k miles, no CEL's, no smoke, not eating oil /and runs smooth. Bad gauge?

Did you do a wet test?

If there all exactly 130, I would bet the gauge is toast.

I did not. It's a brand new gauge, I think my engine was a little cold so I'm going to warm it up some more and do the dry test over along with a wet. All my WOT logs look good too hm.

Now that I think about it, the packaging of the tester was kind of sliced up near the extension and gauge, I'm going to go borrow one from Autozone tomorrow.

Did mine again today - dry test at 192,500 original miles on the engine: 155-150-150-160. There's life in her yet! Did a leak down test on 4, and got just a little coming through exhaust, nothing past the rings. Overall, pretty happy about it, as we are about to add E85 to my tune on the BNRS3.

New OEM motor, 900 miles, warm (sat for ~30 mins after turned off).

176 - 176 -176 -176

This pleases me.

Very impressive.

Tested mine a few weeks ago

180 150 180 180

Rebuild in progress, cracked ringland on cyl 2.

Scoped the cylinder in question, this is what it looked like.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...ecdb575a9b.jpg

It looks like a hot spot on the piston? Or maybe some anti seize got in there from when I did the comp test, hard to tell and being the first time I've looked inside a motor I don't have much of a baseline

So I posted a while back that the brand new Innova (3614) gauge I used gave me a reading of 130psi across all cylinders. Ordered the Innova gauge with the solid rubber hose (3612) and just got 185 190 190 190. Beware if you buy that gauge.

177/125/109/155. Tested today. No leak down. There's still absolutely no trace of smoke when accelerating hard and the car still pulls pretty good.
When the oil consumption started suddenly in May/June I said that if I have to open up the engine even only for replacing some valve seals, I will rebuild it completely. This is going to be a costly word keeping.

I posted a while back. Two of my cylinders were around 180. 3 was at 155 and 4 was slightly higher. Additionally, 3 leaked over 30% on leakdown. Engine ran ok but smoked real bad. It appears that the smoke was caused by the cylinder and the turbo. I've built the motor and get very little smoke, however, the turbo smokes here and there just not as bad as before. Also, I can smell burning oil out of the exhaust. I've pulled the turbo yesterday and it did in fact leak. I am replacing the CHRA with a rotomaster part and will report results. I haven't seen anyone use that CHRA yet.

However, when I've pulled the old motor apart the rings looked fine. I think I could have probably gotten a little more out of it.

2008.5 with 72K miles
I think the only mod is an ebay test pipe from the previous owner

150
155
152
148

2010 MS3
54k miles
Running beaner for about 4k miles, always @rfinkle2; tuned.

190 across the board. Dry.



Sent while granny shiftin' and not double clutching like I should

What kind of power are you making these days? Any E85 or meth?

tried to do a comp test, tester from vatozone was shit and broken. regardless pulled the plugs and they look healthy at least. 81k miles, gtx2867r went in at 50k.

This is how my spark plugs were looking like. All the same, no signs of oil fooling, just the electrode a bit melted and the gap to about 0.8mm instead of 0.65mm (.65mm=0.026").


http://s28.postimg.org/qer20camx/IMAG1916.jpghttp://s28.postimg.org/vtzs1b26x/IMAG1917.jpghttp://s28.postimg.org/6f5uiadi1/IMAG1920.jpg

About 340 on pump, 370 or so on a 4 gallon mix.

I am still planning on doing meth once the spring comes!


Sent while granny shiftin' and not double clutching like I should

Sweet! You're about 10whp ahead of me on both counts. Interested to hear how your meth project turns out.

Ha! All relative man :)

And I will for sure. @maisonvi; and myself are going to try a meth throttle body spacer and see how it turns out...it's just such an easy option.

My next mod is my clutch. I guess 154,000 miles was all the abuse she could take. Still trying to finalize my tune with Lex, but the clutch can't handle WOT in 4th anymore.

Oh man that's a hell of a life for a clutch on a high performance car!

GL man, make sure to post up how it all goes!

Fer sher!!

I did a compression test at the dealership yesterday as I had other things to do,

results all accross the board was 205.

He suspects the engine needs a good cleaning but it's in good shape.

2010 with 74 000 miles

That's way too high. You need to take that car out and drive it hard RIGHT NOW! It's like blood pressure - your car needs more exertion!

Just tested 180's across the board. 100k on the clock. Self tuned since about 50k. 3071 has only been on for about 2k.

Did a quick compression test last night after I noticed the clamp on my turbo inlet had lost the tightening nut. The turbo had some dirt on one of the corners from a big air leak :(.

Luckily no damage done to the turbo or the motor, compression still sitting at a perfect 180 across the board @53600 miles.

My compression was 180-180-180-zero.

138,XXX on motor. stage 1 93 ots for 20K. Burnt valve.

That's a good one.

what caused it?