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 Old 03-27-2013, 12:20 PM   #521
 
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Originally Posted by himurax13 View Post
Personally I would run a vented OCC and then start saving up for the rebuild. I was able to run for almost 6 months like that and I had ridiculous amounts of oil going into the catch can. I would avoid selling all of your aftermarket parts since it is a pain to collect in the first place.
I already have a JBR OCC sitting in my room, so maybe I'll install that sooner rather than later. I can probably go for quite a while on a cracked ringland, but I'd rather build before it blows up.
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 Old 03-27-2013, 01:10 PM   #522
jbr makes fall-a-parts.
 
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I would just sell it and get a brz. They're at 640whp already.

Stock block.
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 Old 03-27-2013, 01:40 PM   #523
 
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Originally Posted by sidekick View Post
I already have a JBR OCC sitting in my room, so maybe I'll install that sooner rather than later. I can probably go for quite a while on a cracked ringland, but I'd rather build before it blows up.
Just buy this little upgrade before you install it. It will keep oil out of the intake.

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 Old 03-27-2013, 02:47 PM   #524
 
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Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
I would just sell it and get a brz. They're at 640whp already.

Stock block.
Lol on my way to the dealership now.

But seriously did visconti tuning actually make it up that high on stock internals?
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 Old 03-27-2013, 02:53 PM   #525
jbr makes fall-a-parts.
 
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Yup
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 Old 03-27-2013, 03:18 PM   #526
 
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Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
Yup
I find that hilarious that the car that comes stock with about 200HP has stronger internals than their bread and butter WRX/STI that come factory boosted with quite a bit more power... SubaruLOL.
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 Old 03-27-2013, 03:19 PM   #527
jbr makes fall-a-parts.
 
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That's Toyota's influence.
They've been putting 1000hp cranks in 140hp cars for decades.
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 Old 03-28-2013, 03:07 AM   #528
 
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Originally Posted by sidekick View Post
Ahh, I see. I didn't realize you had a bent valve and cracked ringlands. Sorry.
Actually I am just speculating cause Mazda recalled my motor but I haven't heard if anyone blowing through as much oil as I did. I wouldn't be surprised if my #4 had a hole in it.

I ditched my HF tester cause the guage stopped at 75. I bought a nice craftsman setup that had a customer review rating of 5 stars.

Anywhoo I tested a 08 with 110k+ miles running 21 lbs boost on a stage 1 map with K04 and 91 octane from passenger to driver side:

170, 170, 160, 170.

Installed a beaner last weekend.

Tested a 12 with less than 10k miles running a slightly modified Stage map on a K04 at around 17 lbs if boost from passenger to driver side:

168, 168, 164, 80 (87 Wet)

I told him to stock out. I am not sure how he should document this to get warranty coverage.

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 Old 03-28-2013, 11:26 AM   #529
 
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Originally Posted by himurax13 View Post
Actually I am just speculating cause Mazda recalled my motor but I haven't heard if anyone blowing through as much oil as I did. I wouldn't be surprised if my #4 had a hole in it.

I ditched my HF tester cause the guage stopped at 75. I bought a nice craftsman setup that had a customer review rating of 5 stars.

Anywhoo I tested a 08 with 110k+ miles running 21 lbs boost on a stage 1 map with K04 and 91 octane from passenger to driver side:

170, 170, 160, 170.

Installed a beaner last weekend.

Tested a 12 with less than 10k miles running a slightly modified Stage map on a K04 at around 17 lbs if boost from passenger to driver side:

168, 168, 164, 80 (87 Wet)

I told him to stock out. I am not sure how he should document this to get warranty coverage.

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Well was the compression test on his car just to check over-all health of the engine or did you suspect there was a problem? Just have him tell them it feels like it is down on power and request a compression test. Lol.
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 Old 03-28-2013, 11:39 AM   #530
 
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Originally Posted by sidekick View Post
Well was the compression test on his car just to check over-all health of the engine or did you suspect there was a problem? Just have him tell them it feels like it is down on power and request a compression test. Lol.
Well with all of the fail I have noticed lately, I find any excuse to whip out the compression tester.

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 Old 03-28-2013, 11:53 AM   #531
 
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Originally Posted by himurax13 View Post
Well with all of the fail I have noticed lately, I find any excuse to whip out the compression tester.
That's probably for the better. Lol. But, oil consumption and loss of power are probably the main things someone would notice due to low compression in one cylinder.
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 Old 03-30-2013, 03:19 PM   #532
 
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if anyone still looking for results
pass to driver 170,165-170,175,170

mods corksport intake and tip, hks ssq, and an ap stge 1 93 tune
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When are people gonna learn that you don't stir up shit here? You go to a Honda forum for that.
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 Old 04-16-2013, 08:41 AM   #533
 
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just hit 80K miles so I thought I'd do a comp test.

results were ~178 ~177 ~178 ~179

this is exactly 7 cranks for each cylinder, with all the plugs out, foot on the gas pedal. I've put about 11K miles on the 3071 over the course of a year.
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 Old 04-16-2013, 09:46 AM   #534
 
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After 1500 miles on the replacement engine and stock everything, 185, 180, 180, 180.

Sent via stocked out for a while ...
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 Old 04-17-2013, 08:44 AM   #535
 
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I did mine last week. ~85k on it. ~15k of that has been modded.

180-182-178-180
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 Old 04-17-2013, 04:21 PM   #536
 
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last night, 42k kms on my poo

175-175-170-150

a build is already in the works, alot of racing on the weekend..
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 Old 04-22-2013, 11:41 AM   #537
 
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you guys make me jealous
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 Old 04-25-2013, 07:34 AM   #538
 
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Last weekend, 89k.

190-190-190-185

Carbon buildup on tops of pistons??
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 Old 04-25-2013, 01:29 PM   #539
 
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For @SoCal MS3; at approximately 63K on a bone stock 2008 Speed:
185, 180, 185, 185

I think she is ready for Big Turbo.
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 Old 04-25-2013, 01:36 PM   #540
 
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2008 53k tuned for ~2k miles

180-185 across the board
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 Old 04-25-2013, 02:26 PM   #541
 
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I'll be trying mine again soon. Anyone have any tricks to keep that damn adapter piece on the tester and not get it stuck every time in every cylinder? I spent hours doing my test due to this and that shit had me ready to burn my car to the ground.
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 Old 04-25-2013, 02:31 PM   #542
 
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Originally Posted by SLOWHATCH View Post
I'll be trying mine again soon. Anyone have any tricks to keep that damn adapter piece on the tester and not get it stuck every time in every cylinder? I spent hours doing my test due to this and that shit had me ready to burn my car to the ground.
Are you talking about the part that threads onto the sparkplug hole? The threads on the adapter might be shot. You could try a little oil or some anti-seize if you are frisky. It should spin out easily.
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 Old 04-25-2013, 02:32 PM   #543
 
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Originally Posted by SLOWHATCH View Post
I'll be trying mine again soon. Anyone have any tricks to keep that damn adapter piece on the tester and not get it stuck every time in every cylinder? I spent hours doing my test due to this and that shit had me ready to burn my car to the ground.
Tape it on after threading it fully (electrical works), thankfully I thought of that right before testing the 1st cylinder
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 Old 04-25-2013, 02:36 PM   #544
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Just crank it tighter onto the the tester, tighter than into the plug well.
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 Old 04-25-2013, 02:54 PM   #545
 
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Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
Just crank it tighter onto the the tester, tighter than into the plug well.
OK, I must have read that post wrong. Is the adapter coming off the tester itself or is the part that screws into the sparkplug hole getting stuck?

The Craftsman Tester I posted earlier is the tits because the adapter simply screws into the sparkplug holes and then attached to the guage with a quick disconnect. The test itself takes less than the time it takes to smoke one cigarrette.

Now if you have POS Harbor feight one, I used teflon tape and 2 crescent wrenches to make sure the quick disconnect piece is attached properly to the adapter piece that goes into the sparkplug hole.
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 Old 04-25-2013, 04:22 PM   #546
 
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anyone know where to get just the hose/adapter/fitting to the gauge?
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 Old 04-25-2013, 04:25 PM   #547
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Try emailing the manufacturer.
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 Old 04-26-2013, 10:49 AM   #548
 
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Done on a cold engine
110-100-75-100
What the fuck!!!
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 Old 04-26-2013, 10:56 AM   #549
 
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Needs to be done at close to operating temp.
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 Old 04-26-2013, 11:14 AM   #550
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Originally Posted by skiptowncat View Post
Done on a cold engine
110-100-75-100
What the fuck!!!
Did you push the throttle to the floor, how many times did you crank, was the tester good?
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 Old 04-26-2013, 12:00 PM   #551
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
Did you push the throttle to the floor, how many times did you crank, was the tester good?
I don't know wether the throttle was pressed. I'm going bnr soon so ill get the valves cleaned at the same time. I just hope it lasts till then.
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 Old 04-26-2013, 12:23 PM   #552
 
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Originally Posted by skiptowncat View Post
I don't know wether the throttle was pressed. I'm going bnr soon so ill get the valves cleaned at the same time. I just hope it lasts till then.
Performing a proper compression test(and leakdown if the test results are bad) is far more important than getting a Beaner or cleaning your valves. If your engine needs a rebuild, then there is no point in doing those things.

The Beaner will put more stress a dying motor and will force a rebuild much sooner.
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 Old 04-26-2013, 12:33 PM   #553
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Replace lost compression with more boost.
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 Old 04-26-2013, 12:38 PM   #554
 
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Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
Replace lost compression with more boost.
Tried that, didn't last too long, lol.

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 Old 04-26-2013, 01:42 PM   #555
 
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Originally Posted by himurax13 View Post
Performing a proper compression test(and leakdown if the test results are bad) is far more important than getting a Beaner or cleaning your valves. If your engine needs a rebuild, then there is no point in doing those things.

The Beaner will put more stress a dying motor and will force a rebuild much sooner.
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Originally Posted by skiptowncat View Post
Done on a cold engine
110-100-75-100
What the fuck!!!
Try a different gauge, I doubt that's anywhere close to actual.

edit:If the engine runs!

Last edited by timjs; 04-26-2013 at 03:45 PM.
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 Old 04-27-2013, 12:12 AM   #557
 
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Originally Posted by timjs View Post
Try a different gauge, I doubt that's anywhere close to actual.

edit:If the engine runs!
I will certainly be getting it retested ASAP.
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
Did you push the throttle to the floor, how many times did you crank, was the tester good?
Throttle was to the floor. Engine did 10 compression strokes .compression tester was brand new as well and i later did mine and got 170psi right across bar cylinder 3 which was 155psi.also done on a mildly warm engine.

skips car on roadtest actually feels to have uneven power across the cylinders ,having solid mounts help you feel it more.told him to try a seafoam through it along with a fuel treatment ,then after 1k get it retested.this should tell us if its a carbon build it sticking the rings or the valves being poorly seated due to the usual disi intake
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 Old 04-27-2013, 04:30 AM   #559
 
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I'll get a leakdown test as well
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Originally Posted by Metal409 View Post
Went ahead and tested my car again today. 2009 Speed3, 42,600miles, more than half of that was stage 1, car is stage 2 now. Was roughly 80degrees out when I tested, 570~ ASL.

1: 185
2: 185
3: 185
4: 185

Only did 6 cranks to get these readings, 7 on cylinder 1.
Did another test today, same location about 78deg outside and while the car was still hot. Just over 65k miles on the car now and back to stock.. for now. Cranked for about 5 seconds on each:

1: 190
2: 190
3: 188
4: 190
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