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 Old 07-06-2014, 07:13 AM   #841

 
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no other symptoms, though it might have just occurred. The car leaned out after I fixed that exhaust leak, I stopped the first pull at 4.5k but I was at 23psi and 13afr.

I don't have a leak down tester, maybe I will pick one up soon.
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 Old 07-06-2014, 01:21 PM   #842
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Originally Posted by Ziggo View Post
no other symptoms, though it might have just occurred. The car leaned out after I fixed that exhaust leak, I stopped the first pull at 4.5k but I was at 23psi and 13afr.

I don't have a leak down tester, maybe I will pick one up soon.
I can send you my OTC tester if you want, PM me.
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 Old 07-06-2014, 01:28 PM   #843
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Originally Posted by atvfreek View Post
@Dano; those PU pistons are just as fragile as the gen1 pistons. They do not like heat and power. Every summer we see more and more ring land failures. And they far trump the amount of rod failures we used to see

Roger that. I was just thinking with aftermarket heat management like a fan controller, you might be able to stretch the useful HP range they can survive. Its a crap shoot for sure and not worth the gamble when rebuilding.
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 Old 07-07-2014, 11:20 AM   #844
 
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I'm really not sure if one pull could do that.
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 Old 07-09-2014, 07:33 PM   #845
 
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I've forgot to warm up the engine and it was too late because I had everything out so I ended up testing on cold engine.

80k/stock k04 some smoke after long idle.

1. 180
2. 180
3. 156
4. 165

Retested 3 & 4 wet and both were right on 180....FML

I will redo again tomorrow on warm engine.
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 Old 07-10-2014, 08:29 AM   #846
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180 on a cold engine seems high.
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 Old 07-10-2014, 08:49 AM   #847
 
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Originally Posted by stockms3 View Post
I've forgot to warm up the engine and it was too late because I had everything out so I ended up testing on cold engine.

80k/stock k04 some smoke after long idle.

1. 180
2. 180
3. 156
4. 165

Retested 3 & 4 wet and both were right on 180....FML

I will redo again tomorrow on warm engine.

Up your idle to 900 and say goodbye to that smoke
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 Old 07-10-2014, 09:57 AM   #848
 
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Did compression today again on a warm engine....numbers were exactly the same as cold.

1. 180
2. 180
3. 156
4. 165

Wet test brought the lower numbers to 180, however, I've discovered low coolant and a little milk on my oil cap. Last summer I had water pump and coolant replaced. I don't think it could be a headgasket since oil dramatically improved those bad cylinders.

Thoughts?
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 Old 07-17-2014, 09:04 PM   #849
 
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I posted this in local section and just figured I would share in case anyone is wondering.

Performed a leak down test today.
Cylinder/gauge1/gauge2/%between gauges

1. 90psi/88psi/2% leaking
2. 90psi/86psi/4% leaking
3. 90psi/46psi/ SHIT LOAD(abt 46%) LEAKING coming out of the PCV/Oil fill hole
4. 90psi/79psi/12% leaking

My cylinder 3 is fucked. Most likely going forged.
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 Old 07-17-2014, 09:14 PM   #850
 
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Originally Posted by stockms3 View Post
I posted this in local section and just figured I would share in case anyone is wondering.

Performed a leak down test today.
Cylinder/gauge1/gauge2/%between gauges

1. 90psi/88psi/2% leaking
2. 90psi/86psi/4% leaking
3. 90psi/46psi/ SHIT LOAD(abt 46%) LEAKING coming out of the PCV/Oil fill hole
4. 90psi/79psi/12% leaking

My cylinder 3 is fucked. Most likely going forged.
I made light of it in your other thread, but that sucks. Sorry to hear.
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 Old 07-18-2014, 03:51 AM   #851
 
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900 miles after rebuild with SP63 10.5:1 pistons the compression is 195 in all 4 cylinders.
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 Old 07-19-2014, 02:15 PM   #852
 
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Did a compression test today just to make sure everything is gonna be fine when I install my BNR S3. 84k kms on the motor.

1. 180
2. 180
3. 180
4. 180

Looks like I'm good to go.
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 Old 07-20-2014, 04:53 PM   #853
 
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Just tested today again with a working gauge (previous HF gauges all read 120 across the board)

Fully bolted (minus Ex/Int Mani) on BNRs3v1 for the last 20k miles...going forged next year

Left to right 168, 165, 170, 173 with 118k Miles.
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 Old 07-20-2014, 06:43 PM   #854
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Looking at everybody's number, I don't feel so bad now.
At 120k I got:

1-170
2-181
3-175
4-170
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 Old 07-20-2014, 08:24 PM   #855
 
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@35700
1k on BT
1- 189
2- 185
3- 180
4- 186
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 Old 07-23-2014, 09:08 AM   #856
 
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100K miles, cold wet test

210
200
195
205

I'm thinking compression gauge is a piece of shit (vatozone) but the consistency is what matters anyway.
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 Old 07-23-2014, 09:34 AM   #857
 
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Originally Posted by Gr8Speed View Post
100K miles, cold wet test

210
200
195
205

I'm thinking compression gauge is a piece of shit (vatozone) but the consistency is what matters anyway.
Cold wet test as in engine cold and you added oil? Do a hot test with no oil to get a real idea of compression.
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 Old 07-23-2014, 10:12 AM   #858
 
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Originally Posted by sidekick View Post
Cold wet test as in engine cold and you added oil? Do a hot test with no oil to get a real idea of compression.
Shouldn't the heat increase my compression reading? Correct me if I'm wrong.
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 Old 07-23-2014, 10:18 AM   #859
 
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1: 150
2: 150
3: 145
4: 145

Yay.
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 Old 07-23-2014, 10:21 AM   #860
 
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Just got my otc comp tester in the mail. 32k tuned since 9k
201
199
199
197
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 Old 07-23-2014, 10:28 AM   #861
 
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175 70 175 175... 24800 Miles in FL

Car has been at he dealership for 2 weeks with a blown Cylinder #2 trying to get a replacement engine under warranty =(
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 Old 07-23-2014, 01:39 PM   #862
 
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Originally Posted by Gr8Speed View Post
Shouldn't the heat increase my compression reading? Correct me if I'm wrong.
Metal expands with heat. Under normal operating conditions, the engine is hot and piston rings only seal properly once the engine is warmed up. Doing a compression test right after driving will give you the best picture of what your compression looks like under normal operation. You add oil to low compression cylinders AFTER doing the test to see if the leakage is at the piston ring or elsewhere in the cylinder.
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 Old 07-23-2014, 01:54 PM   #863
 
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Originally Posted by sidekick View Post
Metal expands with heat. Under normal operating conditions, the engine is hot and piston rings only seal properly once the engine is warmed up. Doing a compression test right after driving will give you the best picture of what your compression looks like under normal operation. You add oil to low compression cylinders AFTER doing the test to see if the leakage is at the piston ring or elsewhere in the cylinder.
Yeah that's my understanding of it and I figured that if it seals while cold, it should also while hot.

I will redo the test next time I'm working on the car.
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 Old 07-23-2014, 02:31 PM   #864
 
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Originally Posted by 5doorsoffury View Post
Just got my otc comp tester in the mail. 32k tuned since 9k
201
199
199
197
that sounds high for stock engine
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 Old 07-23-2014, 02:40 PM   #865
 
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Originally Posted by mrQQ View Post
that sounds high for stock engine
Yep but before that i had 196 with a matco tester so it is what it is.
I do comp tests every few months.
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 Old 07-25-2014, 08:44 PM   #866
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Originally Posted by Gr8Speed View Post
Yeah that's my understanding of it and I figured that if it seals while cold, it should also while hot.

I will redo the test next time I'm working on the car.
You didn't do it cold.
You did it cold and wet. Big difference.
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 Old 08-12-2014, 10:57 AM   #867
 
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Tested this morning to check if everything was okay after cleaning my intake valves 2 weeks ago. Car was completely warm. Each cylinder was cranked 7 times.

1 - 180
2 - 180
3 - 180
4 - 180

Most consistent numbers I've ever had.
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 Old 09-13-2014, 11:31 AM   #868
 
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Bump'd

I started getting some nasty KR (over 5) on my tune which I have been running for about a year now. 3" intake, catted dp, cbe, fuel pump, forge v1, occ, had autolite step colder, switched to itv22, problem started, switched back to autolite, still persists. The car is a 2012, had about 25k when the issue arose.

I threw my maf cal onto stage 2 ots and no more knock at wot (which I'm doing significantly less of since this all started), but when I tested comp, this is what I got...

195
170 (wet was 175)
195
190

What is interesting to me is that the plug on cylinder 2 was MUCH lighter than the other 3. So for some reason that cylinder is running low comp but also much hotter than the rest.

Fwiw the engine, pedals, steering wheel all vibrate somewhat harshly at any given rpm/load/speed. I checked piston height with a 3/8" extension, and cylinders 2 and 3 are identical.

So at this point I'm speculating that it could be a valve issue, or injector seals, possibly both. But I'm still trying to wrap my mind around what could be causing a lean condition in #2 (no CEL however) All were gapped at .026, and rechecked when I tested, still .026

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 Old 09-13-2014, 01:15 PM   #869
 
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I don't think that difference could cause knock.
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 Old 09-13-2014, 01:16 PM   #870
 
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Maybe an injector issue? causing too lean conditon and knock in cylinder.

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 Old 09-14-2014, 10:16 AM   #871
 
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I threw a half pint of seafoam in a 3/4 full tank this morning, it seems to be running a bit smoother but I'll see how it goes as I burn through this tank. Seems that the low comp could be a symptom of the knock, which itself is caused by a fuel issue

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 Old 09-20-2014, 04:59 PM   #872
 
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Doing my first test, 130 dry test on the nose across the board, tested at a temp of 165. 2008.5 45k miles, no CEL's, no smoke, not eating oil /and runs smooth. Bad gauge?
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 Old 09-20-2014, 05:42 PM   #873
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Did you do a wet test?

If there all exactly 130, I would bet the gauge is toast.
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 Old 09-20-2014, 05:46 PM   #874
 
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Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
Did you do a wet test?

If there all exactly 130, I would bet the gauge is toast.
I did not. It's a brand new gauge, I think my engine was a little cold so I'm going to warm it up some more and do the dry test over along with a wet. All my WOT logs look good too hm.

Now that I think about it, the packaging of the tester was kind of sliced up near the extension and gauge, I'm going to go borrow one from Autozone tomorrow.

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 Old 09-20-2014, 07:23 PM   #875
 
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Did mine again today - dry test at 192,500 original miles on the engine: 155-150-150-160. There's life in her yet! Did a leak down test on 4, and got just a little coming through exhaust, nothing past the rings. Overall, pretty happy about it, as we are about to add E85 to my tune on the BNRS3.
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 Old 09-20-2014, 09:53 PM   #876
 
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New OEM motor, 900 miles, warm (sat for ~30 mins after turned off).

176 - 176 -176 -176

This pleases me.
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 Old 09-20-2014, 10:43 PM   #877
 
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Originally Posted by BackRoads View Post
Did mine again today - dry test at 192,500 original miles on the engine: 155-150-150-160. There's life in her yet! Did a leak down test on 4, and got just a little coming through exhaust, nothing past the rings. Overall, pretty happy about it, as we are about to add E85 to my tune on the BNRS3.
Very impressive.
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 Old 09-20-2014, 11:14 PM   #878
 
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Tested mine a few weeks ago

180 150 180 180

Rebuild in progress, cracked ringland on cyl 2.
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 Old 09-21-2014, 01:58 PM   #879
 
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Scoped the cylinder in question, this is what it looked like.



It looks like a hot spot on the piston? Or maybe some anti seize got in there from when I did the comp test, hard to tell and being the first time I've looked inside a motor I don't have much of a baseline
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 Old 10-09-2014, 04:37 PM   #880
 
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So I posted a while back that the brand new Innova (3614) gauge I used gave me a reading of 130psi across all cylinders. Ordered the Innova gauge with the solid rubber hose (3612) and just got 185 190 190 190. Beware if you buy that gauge.
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