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 Old 11-03-2014, 10:18 AM   #881
 
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177/125/109/155. Tested today. No leak down. There's still absolutely no trace of smoke when accelerating hard and the car still pulls pretty good.
When the oil consumption started suddenly in May/June I said that if I have to open up the engine even only for replacing some valve seals, I will rebuild it completely. This is going to be a costly word keeping.
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 Old 11-03-2014, 10:26 AM   #882
 
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I posted a while back. Two of my cylinders were around 180. 3 was at 155 and 4 was slightly higher. Additionally, 3 leaked over 30% on leakdown. Engine ran ok but smoked real bad. It appears that the smoke was caused by the cylinder and the turbo. I've built the motor and get very little smoke, however, the turbo smokes here and there just not as bad as before. Also, I can smell burning oil out of the exhaust. I've pulled the turbo yesterday and it did in fact leak. I am replacing the CHRA with a rotomaster part and will report results. I haven't seen anyone use that CHRA yet.

However, when I've pulled the old motor apart the rings looked fine. I think I could have probably gotten a little more out of it.
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 Old 11-03-2014, 10:34 AM   #883
 
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2008.5 with 72K miles
I think the only mod is an ebay test pipe from the previous owner

150
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 Old 11-06-2014, 08:29 AM   #884
 
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2010 MS3
54k miles
Running beaner for about 4k miles, always @rfinkle2; tuned.

190 across the board. Dry.



Sent while granny shiftin' and not double clutching like I should
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 Old 11-06-2014, 09:01 AM   #885
 
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Originally Posted by HawkeyeGeoff View Post
2010 MS3
54k miles
Running beaner for about 4k miles, always @rfinkle2; tuned.

190 across the board. Dry.



Sent while granny shiftin' and not double clutching like I should

What kind of power are you making these days? Any E85 or meth?
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 Old 11-06-2014, 09:27 AM   #886
 
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tried to do a comp test, tester from vatozone was shit and broken. regardless pulled the plugs and they look healthy at least. 81k miles, gtx2867r went in at 50k.
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 Old 11-06-2014, 11:03 AM   #887
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
177/125/109/155. Tested today. No leak down. There's still absolutely no trace of smoke when accelerating hard and the car still pulls pretty good.
When the oil consumption started suddenly in May/June I said that if I have to open up the engine even only for replacing some valve seals, I will rebuild it completely. This is going to be a costly word keeping.
This is how my spark plugs were looking like. All the same, no signs of oil fooling, just the electrode a bit melted and the gap to about 0.8mm instead of 0.65mm (.65mm=0.026").


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 Old 11-06-2014, 11:09 AM   #888
 
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Originally Posted by BackRoads View Post
What kind of power are you making these days? Any E85 or meth?
About 340 on pump, 370 or so on a 4 gallon mix.

I am still planning on doing meth once the spring comes!


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 Old 11-06-2014, 11:22 AM   #889
 
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Originally Posted by HawkeyeGeoff View Post
About 340 on pump, 370 or so on a 4 gallon mix.

I am still planning on doing meth once the spring comes!


Sent while granny shiftin' and not double clutching like I should

Sweet! You're about 10whp ahead of me on both counts. Interested to hear how your meth project turns out.
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 Old 11-06-2014, 07:27 PM   #890
 
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Originally Posted by BackRoads View Post
Sweet! You're about 10whp ahead of me on both counts. Interested to hear how your meth project turns out.
Ha! All relative man

And I will for sure. @maisonvi; and myself are going to try a meth throttle body spacer and see how it turns out...it's just such an easy option.
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 Old 11-06-2014, 07:32 PM   #891
 
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Originally Posted by HawkeyeGeoff View Post
Ha! All relative man



And I will for sure. @maisonvi; and myself are going to try a meth throttle body spacer and see how it turns out...it's just such an easy option.

My next mod is my clutch. I guess 154,000 miles was all the abuse she could take. Still trying to finalize my tune with Lex, but the clutch can't handle WOT in 4th anymore.
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 Old 11-06-2014, 07:33 PM   #892
 
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Originally Posted by BackRoads View Post
My next mod is my clutch. I guess 154,000 miles was all the abuse she could take. Still trying to finalize my tune with Lex, but the clutch can't handle WOT in 4th anymore.
Oh man that's a hell of a life for a clutch on a high performance car!

GL man, make sure to post up how it all goes!
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 Old 11-06-2014, 07:34 PM   #893
 
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Originally Posted by HawkeyeGeoff View Post
Oh man that's a hell of a life for a clutch on a high performance car!



GL man, make sure to post up how it all goes!

Fer sher!!
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 Old 11-07-2014, 10:29 AM   #894
 
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I did a compression test at the dealership yesterday as I had other things to do,

results all accross the board was 205.

He suspects the engine needs a good cleaning but it's in good shape.

2010 with 74 000 miles
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 Old 11-07-2014, 10:31 AM   #895
 
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Originally Posted by JayBeeL View Post
I did a compression test at the dealership yesterday as I had other things to do,

results all accross the board was 205.

He suspects the engine needs a good cleaning but it's in good shape.

2010 with 74 000 miles

That's way too high. You need to take that car out and drive it hard RIGHT NOW! It's like blood pressure - your car needs more exertion!
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 Old 11-07-2014, 05:23 PM   #896
 
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Just tested 180's across the board. 100k on the clock. Self tuned since about 50k. 3071 has only been on for about 2k.
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 Old 11-14-2014, 02:04 PM   #897
 
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Did a quick compression test last night after I noticed the clamp on my turbo inlet had lost the tightening nut. The turbo had some dirt on one of the corners from a big air leak .

Luckily no damage done to the turbo or the motor, compression still sitting at a perfect 180 across the board @53600 miles.
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 Old 11-16-2014, 02:48 PM   #898
 
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My compression was 180-180-180-zero.

138,XXX on motor. stage 1 93 ots for 20K. Burnt valve.
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 Old 11-16-2014, 08:50 PM   #899
jbr makes fall-a-parts.
 
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That's a good one.
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 Old 11-17-2014, 02:33 AM   #900
 
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what caused it?
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 Old 11-17-2014, 07:03 AM   #901
 
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too much boost and too low timing.
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 Old 12-07-2014, 08:54 AM   #902
 
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back in may, after I hydrolocked, I got these numbers with HF gauge
160/165/140/160 dry
175/170/150/165 wet

wood dowel and sharp pencil showed no badly bent rod
no vibes in clutch
been driven relatively easy for 3K since then

I have some fresh plugs on the way, I plan to use my caliper to get more exact with the rod check, and redo comp test and do the leakdown thing.

might be I popped ringlands?
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 Old 12-07-2014, 09:39 AM   #903
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Do a leak down.
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 Old 12-07-2014, 10:32 AM   #904
 
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Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
Do a leak down.
buying the HF tester today
dry, and warm for the test?
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 Old 12-07-2014, 11:46 AM   #905
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Dry for sure.
I would give it about 20 minutes after shut down.
I usually let it sit for ten, and then start tearing it down.
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 Old 12-07-2014, 01:08 PM   #906
 
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done,

well done friday, after the plugs show up
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 Old 04-27-2015, 11:21 AM   #907
 
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Had a bit of time this weekend so I did some boost leak testing and a compression test. Car has 57300 and was completely cold.

1-180
2-180
3-179
4-179
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 Old 04-30-2015, 03:10 PM   #908
 
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i did a comp test in utah (roughly 4500ft asl) at 90,000 miles

every cylinder was 162. ill take it
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 Old 05-08-2015, 08:24 PM   #909
 
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Two months ago I did a compression test with a autozone gauge... I got 165 in all 4 Cylinders, 14K on a new engine, Needless to say I was dissapointed, but hey at least numbers were consistent, so finally today i got a brand new gauge and decided to try this again... really happy with the new results, Numbers are DRY on a somewhat warm engine, didn't do a wet test
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 Old 05-16-2015, 08:41 PM   #910
 
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So I did mine after I experience a cylinder 2 misfire. Did compression test and it said fuck off. 150,30,150,150 tested warm .
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 Old 06-09-2015, 05:30 AM   #911
 
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Did the test on Sunday. Been wanting to do it for future references. Have almost 90k miles on the slow thing. Did the test about 10 minutes after I parked, drove around for about 20 minutes before. I want to believe the numbers but not sure, I might get another tester and see what it reads. Should I maybe consider a cold test? Only got to page 13, going to read rest later.


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 Old 06-09-2015, 06:10 AM   #912
 
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Originally Posted by FreshAsWoodie View Post
Did the test on Sunday. Been wanting to do it for future references. Have almost 90k miles on the slow thing. Did the test about 10 minutes after I parked, drove around for about 20 minutes before. I want to believe the numbers but not sure, I might get another tester and see what it reads. Should I maybe consider a cold test? Only got to page 13, going to read rest later.


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 Old 06-09-2015, 06:41 AM   #913
 
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Yeah I hope so haha. Kind of a dead thread too. But I still wanted to post my info.


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 Old 06-09-2015, 08:44 AM   #914
 
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Originally Posted by FreshAsWoodie View Post
Yeah I hope so haha. Kind of a dead thread too. But I still wanted to post my info.


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this thread is never dead. it just slowly accumulates info
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 Old 06-09-2015, 12:58 PM   #915
 
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Default MY 30PSI CYLINDER 2

Well I've gotten the block and head back from the machine shop now I'm just waiting on my bearings to come in the mail then i'll begin the assembly process. I never got around to showing the problem with cylinder 2 but the picture below will explain all.
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 Old 06-10-2015, 11:59 PM   #916
 
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Yeah... same cylinders (2, 3 or both), same spot (the end towards the exhaust valves).
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 Old 06-11-2015, 03:14 AM   #917
 
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cyl one 195
cyl two 198
cyl three 195
cyl four 200

Test was last month at 96,000 mi. Used Craftsman tester. This was prior to installing FMIC and going from stage 2 to stage 3 cobb OTS map. See sig for other mods. Live in Florida. Drive it like I stole it almost every day, but always take it easy on warm up and cool down. Change oil every 5K mi, always synthetic, 5w-40 Rotella T as of late.

I was absolutely thrilled! Especially since I'd like to get at least another 100K mi and/or five more glorious years out of this wonderful car.
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 Old 06-11-2015, 03:17 AM   #918
 
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If you wanna keep that compression the way it is, I suggest you get a real tune.
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 Old 06-11-2015, 04:26 AM   #919
 
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Originally Posted by Hammology View Post
If you wanna keep that compression the way it is, I suggest you get a real tune.
That is the next thing I plan on doing. Don't want to take any chances. Plan on going with Stratified @Lex;. Def won't do any track days or anything too crazy until then. Been trying to keep the revs below ~5K in the mean time.

Edit: Just wonder if I should clean the intake valves before getting a tune? Perhaps @Lex; can chime in? 100K miles, and never cleaned the valves. Already have an air compressor, just would need the walnut media and the blaster tool.
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Last edited by GregScuba; 06-11-2015 at 04:42 AM.
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 Old 06-11-2015, 07:54 AM   #920
 
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Originally Posted by GregScuba View Post
That is the next thing I plan on doing. Don't want to take any chances. Plan on going with Stratified @Lex;. Def won't do any track days or anything too crazy until then. Been trying to keep the revs below ~5K in the mean time.

Edit: Just wonder if I should clean the intake valves before getting a tune? Perhaps @Lex; can chime in? 100K miles, and never cleaned the valves. Already have an air compressor, just would need the walnut media and the blaster tool.
if you are able to do it then you should. mine at 50k were pretty horrible
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