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 Old 06-11-2015, 08:33 AM   #921
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Originally Posted by GregScuba View Post
That is the next thing I plan on doing. Don't want to take any chances. Plan on going with Stratified @Lex;. Def won't do any track days or anything too crazy until then. Been trying to keep the revs below ~5K in the mean time.

Edit: Just wonder if I should clean the intake valves before getting a tune? Perhaps @Lex; can chime in? 100K miles, and never cleaned the valves. Already have an air compressor, just would need the walnut media and the blaster tool.
your intake valves will be HORRIBLE, just a common issue with any DISI, Mazda, BMW, Audi, VW, etc.

Yes clean them before investing in a tune if feasible. It will run like a new car.

I personally bought Walnut media and a blaster on Amazon, made a plate out of 1x4 MDF using the IM gasket as a template, put two holes in each runner location (one for the blaster another for vacuum) and went to work with each cylinder at TDC. Just like the dealerships clean them.
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 Old 06-11-2015, 08:36 AM   #922
 
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Originally Posted by Dano View Post
your intake valves will be HORRIBLE, just a common issue with any DISI, Mazda, BMW, Audi, VW, etc.



Yes clean them before investing in a tune if feasible. It will run like a new car.



I personally bought Walnut media and a blaster on Amazon, made a plate out of 1x4 MDF using the IM gasket as a template, put two holes in each runner location (one for the blaster another for vacuum) and went to work with each cylinder at TDC. Just like the dealerships clean them.

Interested - about how much did the parts/media cost you, and how much time to do it?

I had this done at 100k miles, with great results. Been thinking of it again as I am at 206k.
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 Old 06-11-2015, 08:47 AM   #923
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let me amazon that for you

media..I got a larger bag but this lil guy would be plenty for a number of valve cleaning jobs.

Amazon.com : Frankford Arsenal 881538 Arsenal Brass Cleaning Walnut Media : Hunting Cleaning And Maintenance Products : Sports & OutdoorsAmazon.com : Frankford Arsenal 881538 Arsenal Brass Cleaning Walnut Media : Hunting Cleaning And Maintenance Products : Sports & Outdoors

blaster

Amazon.com: Campbell Hausfeld AT1226 Sandblasting Kit: Home ImprovementAmazon.com: Campbell Hausfeld AT1226 Sandblasting Kit: Home Improvement



intake removal/install is the most time consuming part maybe 2 hours total. blasting only took about 30 minutes. So +- 2.5 hours.
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 Old 06-11-2015, 08:55 AM   #924
 
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Thanks - not bad. If A person was pulling the IM anyway, seems smart.
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 Old 06-21-2015, 07:40 PM   #925
 
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Well this wasn't exactly how I was hoping my first post would play out but here we are. I've been navigating around the forums just taking all the info in since buying the car last Novemberish, investing in an ap shortly after. Six months later I'm here with compression and leak down numbers..

Cyl 1: 175, 11% leakage
Cyl 2: 176, 6% leakage
Cyl 3: 155, 27% leakage past the rings
Cyl 4: 175, 7% leakage

Dont worry, I'll see myself over to the build diaries..
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 Old 06-21-2015, 10:01 PM   #926
 
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Originally Posted by jpopcorn View Post
Well this wasn't exactly how I was hoping my first post would play out but here we are. I've been navigating around the forums just taking all the info in since buying the car last Novemberish, investing in an ap shortly after. Six months later I'm here with compression and leak down numbers..

Cyl 1: 175, 11% leakage
Cyl 2: 176, 6% leakage
Cyl 3: 155, 27% leakage past the rings
Cyl 4: 175, 7% leakage

Dont worry, I'll see myself over to the build diaries..
At least you're paying attention. Odds are good you can recoup with minimal expense since you've caught it early, just plan for .020 over with the parts and research reputable machine shops near you.
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 Old 06-22-2015, 08:53 AM   #927
 
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Originally Posted by JgamB View Post
At least you're paying attention. Odds are good you can recoup with minimal expense since you've caught it early, just plan for .020 over with the parts and research reputable machine shops near you.
Do most end up needing to bore? I've been hoping to get away with just honing as I'm looking to stay away from forged pistons with what I'm looking to get out of the car reliability and power wise.

From what I've read it seems sticking with the stock rods is a bad idea though.
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 Old 06-22-2015, 10:56 AM   #928
 
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At these compression values I'm 100% sure you will not have to bore. However, expect to have cracked ring lands so do not buy just rings, get pistons and eventually (why not?!) rods as well.
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 Old 06-22-2015, 08:54 PM   #929
 
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Originally Posted by jpopcorn View Post
Do most end up needing to bore? I've been hoping to get away with just honing as I'm looking to stay away from forged pistons with what I'm looking to get out of the car reliability and power wise.

From what I've read it seems sticking with the stock rods is a bad idea though.
Your rods aren't what got you into this situation - it's your ring lands (most likely, possibly a filthy valve not fully closing, didn't read the rest of this thread), and if you want more substantial ring lands, you will want forged pistons as well.

Your best bet if you want to get by on the cheap is a buy a reman from Edge and sell your long block. It's worth (a lot) more to the used market than it would be for the $450 core refund. They have a $50 option for a 3 year unlimited warranty, a no brainer if you go that route.
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 Old 07-05-2015, 04:15 PM   #930
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2013-56k miles

SRI (Stock size), Catless DP, CPe Triton CBE, Autotechs, Freek OTS+, Original Spark Plugs, Roughly 90% of miles highway. T6 for it's lifetime.

Cylinder 1- 180
Cylinder 2- 175
Cylinder 3- 180
Cylinder 4- 175

I started losing oil a few weeks back, seems the K04 is not liking the catless DP. CPe TMIC, JBR 3" Intake, BNR S3, and CPe Manifold are on the way. Gonna let Mr. Hypnotic do a full tune on it.
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 Old 07-17-2015, 06:21 AM   #931
 
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Originally Posted by Hammology View Post
If you wanna keep that compression the way it is, I suggest you get a real tune.
Cleaned the intake valves since my last compression test, and boy what a difference it made in performance and drivability!

I am currently on the first version of my pro tune with Stratified Automotive Controls, so decided to do another compression test today:

195
198
198
196

Once again, I'm thrilled with the results. All the while I was running the Cobb OTS map I never really saw any KR over 2, and trust me, I watched that shit like a hawk. There was only one exception when I got a bad tank of gas from a mom and pop station while traveling in the mountains, and my KR went up to 5.3, so I just took it easy until the next fill up, and sure enough, it went right back down.

Now that I'm running the first iteration of my stratified map, my KR has been below 0.8 so far. I know the tunes start out fairly conservative initially, but that is still pretty impressive, none the less. Kudos to Stan, @Lex; and everyone else at Stratified!
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 Old 07-18-2015, 03:07 AM   #932
 
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Within the past month or so I finally got around to upgrading my smoking K04 to a BNR s3. Prior to install we cleaned the intake valves and they were dirty as hell. Did the injector seals and all that jazz. Got it all back together and before I really started tuning I wanted to get a comp test since I have 87k miles on the car. Did the test and my numbers were pretty shit. 170,150,150,170. So I took it in for a Leakdown yesterday. His numbers were 160,150,135,160 with leaks coming from the intake valves. Said I need to have my head machines and reseat the valves. But after talking with some people here it's possible my valves are still dirty where they actually seat since you can only really clean when the valves are down. I'm just trying to figure out what to do exactly... On one hand is to start saving for rods and pistons and machine work. I have people here that will help me build, but the machine process and parts is $ I just don't have at the moment. That damn cylinder 3 is such a pain. Looking into what I can find about porting/machining the stock mani to try to avoid this issue in the future as well as meth. But that aquamist kit is looking pretty infeasible at the moment if I have to sell my first born to build this motor. But I guess the good news was it wasn't showing leak at the ringlands?

Edit: How can one safely clean intake valves while open to clean where they actually seat and from a seal?
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 Old 07-19-2015, 09:37 AM   #933
 
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Cylinder #3 being lower is quite consistent with what we've seen so far in these engines. The heat either indicates more wear in the rings on #2 and #3 or even leads to ring lands cracking for those two (usually starting with #3 ).

So I'd say, if the car runs good currently leave it as is and don't do any more work to it as you can invite more problems in the game. Save for pistons and rods and have the head cleaned up when you pull the engine for the rebuild.
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 Old 07-19-2015, 10:12 AM   #934
 
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70k on the clock mine tested out to be 180, 180, 178, 180. Funny enough it's #3 that's misfiring as well. Only problem is I can't remember if the 178 was on 2 or 3. Numbers are dry, didn't test wet.

Might have the valves cleaned at the dealer once I salve up some cash, no time to do it myself.
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 Old 07-20-2015, 05:09 AM   #935
 
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Now that I've finally got around to tearing the motor down after seeing 27% leakage past cylinder 3, I don't notice anything too dramatic. I was expecting a cracked ringland but it doesn't look to be the case (at least without a closer look).

Is that kind of leakage possible with just bad rings? Being my first go at a rebuild I'm not sure if there's anything I'd be able to see that would be a telltale sign for the bad compression.
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 Old 07-20-2015, 06:18 AM   #936
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Originally Posted by jpopcorn View Post
Now that I've finally got around to tearing the motor down after seeing 27% leakage past cylinder 3, I don't notice anything too dramatic. I was expecting a cracked ringland but it doesn't look to be the case (at least without a closer look).

Is that kind of leakage possible with just bad rings? Being my first go at a rebuild I'm not sure if there's anything I'd be able to see that would be a telltale sign for the bad compression.
Was the car running funny at all? It could just be a worn engine if you don't find anything suspect. Maybe check ring end gap if you feel like it, check if the cylinder is out of round.
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 Old 07-20-2015, 06:42 AM   #937
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
Was the car running funny at all? It could just be a worn engine if you don't find anything suspect. Maybe check ring end gap if you feel like it, check if the cylinder is out of round.
Everything was running fine, I wouldn't have even known there was a problem if I didn't do a compression and leakdown test. I did start getting some knock at higher rpms shortly after, though it could be unrelated as I didn't see any knock prior to running the tests. I guess I just figured with the usual cylinder 3 issues I'd see something obvious.
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 Old 07-20-2015, 06:51 AM   #938
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Was it all leaking down through the crank case? Could injector seals have been a cause? Even at 30%, I probably wouldn't rebuild unless there were other problems. Did it burn oil?
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 Old 07-20-2015, 08:03 AM   #939
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
Was it all leaking down through the crank case? Could injector seals have been a cause? Even at 30%, I probably wouldn't rebuild unless there were other problems. Did it burn oil?
Yeah there was a swift breeze coming from the oil cap haha. Injector seals looked fine but I'm replacing them regardless so we shall see. It didn't really burn oil, just needed topped off once between changes. As far as it really needing to be rebuilt I'm not sure, but it needed the timing components, valve cleaning, and downpipe so pulling the head was convenient enough with the extra pistons and rods I have.
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 Old 08-31-2015, 05:52 PM   #940
 
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Addin' to the madness finally.

Mods are in Sig.

Cyl 1: 180
Cyl 2: 170
Cyl 3: 180
Cyl 4: 185

Ran immediately after getting the vehicle up to temperature. I'm thinking about doing a leakdown.
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 Old 09-01-2015, 07:15 PM   #941
 
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Did another tonight after an oil change (and another warm up)
Got:
Cyl 1: 182
Cyl 2: 175/178 (2 tries)
Cyl 3: 182
Cyl 4: 185

I did a couple extra cranks on all of these this time. Interesting.
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 Old 09-01-2015, 08:20 PM   #942
 
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You are golden. How many miles on your engine?
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 Old 09-02-2015, 05:31 AM   #943
 
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Originally Posted by BackRoads View Post
You are golden. How many miles on your engine?
There's about 40-45k on the engine build. 60k on the whole car.

Edit; I want your bumper, in and around my mouth. lol done jacked mine up on the track.

AND Also going to do a leakdown once I get it from @maisonvi; I'll report back.
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 Old 09-02-2015, 05:37 AM   #944
 
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Originally Posted by HawkeyeGeoff View Post
There's about 40-45k on the engine build. 60k on the whole car.

Edit; I want your bumper, in and around my mouth. lol done jacked mine up on the track.

Whaaaa??
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 Old 09-02-2015, 05:39 AM   #945
 
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Originally Posted by BackRoads View Post
Whaaaa??
You saying WHAAA to the length of the build or that I want to lick your non-jacked up bumper?
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 Old 09-16-2015, 02:11 PM   #946
 
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1 month ago:

1: 155 / 10%
2: 155 / 10%
3: 150 / 10%
4: 155 / 10%

Compression numbers are obviously low due to not engaging the gas pedal during startup.
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 Old 09-23-2015, 04:41 PM   #947
 
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Tested this morning. 60500 miles. Engine was completely cold.

1 - 181
2 - 180
3 - 180
4 - 180

Crazy, I've only driven 3000 miles in the last 5 months.
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 Old 09-23-2015, 04:43 PM   #948
 
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One update on mine - still getting oil consumption despite strong numbers. We're pretty sure it's worn oil control rings.
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 Old 09-23-2015, 05:35 PM   #949
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Stock motor at 145k miles. I retired it at 161.5k and it had seen 22psi from a 5858 from 124k to the day it was pulled out. (still ran great)


Built motor at 3k miles
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 Old 10-06-2015, 07:57 AM   #950
 
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Stock motor, simple bolt ons with hpfp internals and Catless dp. 75k currently on motor. Had dp and internals on car for about 5k miles. Did my compression test yesterday while car was still warm. Pulled necessary fuses and all Spark plugs. Held down Clutch and gas while cranking.

1 - 188
2 - 190
3 - 189
4 - 188

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 Old 10-06-2015, 11:10 AM   #951
 
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Stock motor and turbo @ 95k. Hpfp internals, gutted cats, Cai and tip,


Dry: (130) (120) (110) (130)
Wet: (150) (150) (140) (140)

Leak down results
Cylinder 1 = 28%
Cylinder 2 = 33%
Cylinder 3 = 36%
Cylinder 4 = 32%

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 Old 10-06-2015, 11:35 AM   #952
 
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Originally Posted by SNOW_QN View Post
Stock motor and turbo @ 95k. Hpfp internals, gutted cats, Cai and tip,


Dry: (130) (120) (110) (130)
Wet: (150) (150) (140) (140)

Leak down results
Cylinder 1 = 28%
Cylinder 2 = 33%
Cylinder 3 = 36%
Cylinder 4 = 32%

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Damn

Just did mine it april and had
1-180
2-180
3-180
4-180

Car has 77k with all bolt ons and meth
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 Old 10-07-2015, 09:32 AM   #953
 
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I'm sure the last guy that owned this car raped the shit out of it. It's all good though.... "We will rebuild".

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 Old 10-09-2015, 02:20 AM   #954
 
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Originally Posted by SNOW_QN View Post
Stock motor and turbo @ 95k. Hpfp internals, gutted cats, Cai and tip,


Dry: (130) (120) (110) (130)
Wet: (150) (150) (140) (140)

Leak down results
Cylinder 1 = 28%
Cylinder 2 = 33%
Cylinder 3 = 36%
Cylinder 4 = 32%

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Is that motor leak or valve leak?
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 Old 10-09-2015, 03:21 AM   #955
 
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It was leaking into the crank case.

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 Old 10-25-2015, 02:48 PM   #956
 
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2010 with 81k mods in sig. Stage 2 since 65k and bnr since 75k. First time testing.
Looks pretty consistent around 190 in every cylinder. Performed the test at operating temp.
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BNR s3, Freek 3.5", Autotech internals, depo racing catless dp, TR6, JBR FMIC piping, 80a rmm, OCC, TIGs, EGR delete and Coolant bypass
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 Old 12-02-2015, 05:28 AM   #957
 
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Sitting at 46 k drivin hard highway miles. Tuned at 9k on e85.
196,197,200,200
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2012 BM
PTE 5858 Vband .82ar // Tial EWG // CPE Mani // 3" Turboback // JBR Under route hot pipe // MD ST mani+spacer with PI // Siemens 60lb Injectors // Splitsecond inj controller // JBR 88 duro RMM/TMM // TWM Full replacement shifter // JBR CC // Autotech FP Internals // SP63 SB/Manley rods SP63 pro pistons // Treadstone FMIC TR824 // FoMoCo Tranny Jizz // South Bend Clutch Stage 3 enduro// GFB Respons // FJ 4" intake // WMI 100% VPM1// Air Lift 1000 in rear
Rfinkle tune in progress

The Brooklyn beater: 2005 1.8 Auto Sentra

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 Old 01-03-2016, 03:48 PM   #958
 
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Did this today.
GTX2871, CPE TMIC, 3.5 intake, UR catless TBE, and EGR Delete. I'm switching to an S4 within the next month.


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 Old 01-08-2016, 08:29 AM   #959
 
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With 157K miles

#1 = 180
#2 = 150
#3 = 125
#4 = 180
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07 Cosmic Blue Speed 3,
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Cobb AP
BEGI SRI
CNT Catted Downpipe
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 Old 01-15-2016, 02:57 PM   #960
 
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2010 speed3 stock at 85k km..
Dry
cyl 1 - 170
cyl 2 - 150
cyl 3 - 160
cy 4 - 190

wet
cyl 1 - 185
cyl 2 - 180
cyl 3 - 190
cy 4 - 190

Last edited by brandon96; 01-15-2016 at 03:14 PM.
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Random MS3 Chat Thread - Page 171 This thread Refback 04-20-2013 04:45 PM
Anyone measure compression on stock motor? - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 / Mazda Atenza Forum Post #12 Pingback 03-12-2010 08:06 AM

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