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| MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline Discussion of engine, tranny and drivelines. |
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![]() | | #201 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I've seen pics of intake valves of other direct injected cars, like the Audi 2.0 FSI at 15k miles and if our car is anything as bad as it, I fear what mine look like now at 27k miles because those were horrendous! I have a feeling this is where my power loss is at, but I don't know... I'm just guessing as I've pretty much given up on figuring out where my power has gone now.
__________________ 09 Speed 3 GT |
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Here, have a look at these pictures. I'm going to assume you still have the stock top-mounted intercooler. You can't really see the IM because the intercooler & its plastic shroud sit on top of it: ![]() Here, the intercooler has been removed, and you can see the actual IM itself. Note four runners, one for each cylinder. ![]() You've actually worked on it before, when you installed your OCC kit. You also shoot seafoam through it everytime you perform a seafoaming.
__________________ ![]() 2008 GT MS3 - 307 WHP/338 WTQ ATP GTX2867R - HTP 3" Intake - Cobb FMIC pipes + Treadstone TR8L - Cobb Catted Turboback - Cobb XLE BPV - Denso ITV22 plugs - Corksport Injector Seals - KMD HPFP - Cobb AP - CP-E RMM - Southbend Stage 3 Enduro Clutch/Flywheel - Bilstein B8s + Swift Springs - SPC Rear Camber Arms - Hotchkis RSB - MD OCC Kit - Enkei RPF1 - Bridgestone Potenza S-04 235/40/18 1995 Miata Dunlop Direzza Star Specs 185/60/14 - Koyo 37mm radiator - NAPA blank rotors - StopTech Street Performance pads - 949 Racing XIDA CS Coilovers - IL Motorsports suspension bushings - Racing Beat FSB - 949 Endlinks | |
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![]() | | #203 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Cool thanks. How does one look into them to see if there are oil tracks there? Is it a difficult job? I can get down to that level pretty easy as I take the TMIC and SRI and TIP off a lot and the battery box out all the time.
__________________ 09 Speed 3 GT |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score shpankey, if your compression is good, and if you maintain the car as well as you say, then i am not really sure that the intake valves are your problem. i follow a similar route, maybe less rigorous, and i don't have power loss. i've pulled my plugs a few times and they look OK, about the same every time. i do seafoam thru the intake system once every other oil change or so. my questions would be related to fuel and air - - is your fuel pump working properly? - do you have any boost leaks? - is your MAF calibrated for the intake you have (if any)? if you've been driving modified w/ a stock pump for a long time, your pump might be hosed, and that could cause a power loss. a boost leak would sap power as well, although you'd prolly hear it. get a log of your car and post it up. we can go from there.
__________________ 01.5 S4 6MT Stage 3 02 S6 6MT swap 93 S4 project [sold - 90 Miata - summer/project car, turbo w/ goodies, DIYPNP, springs/struts, etc.] [sold - 08 MS3 GT - intake/downpipe/tuning/fuel pump/TMIC/springs/struts/etc.] |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I've been running the KMD Ver 2 pump for almost a year now. I don't have a logging tool, just a code reader that can do live readings. According to it, at WOT I'm 1750+ to 2000 psi with the average being between 1790 to 1850. It never goes below 1700 at any time at WOT and idle is close to 500 psi. So I've kind of ruled the fp out. Though I will admit the power loss did come around the time I installed it and a few other mods (step colder denso's, TIP, OCC). I've since taken everything off the car except the HPFP as my stock clip is broke and since I see such good pressure I think it's probably ok.
__________________ 09 Speed 3 GT |
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__________________ 01.5 S4 6MT Stage 3 02 S6 6MT swap 93 S4 project [sold - 90 Miata - summer/project car, turbo w/ goodies, DIYPNP, springs/struts, etc.] [sold - 08 MS3 GT - intake/downpipe/tuning/fuel pump/TMIC/springs/struts/etc.] |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score No. I don't really know how to do that tho.
__________________ 09 Speed 3 GT |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score you've really gotta check your AFR and boost pressure.
__________________ 01.5 S4 6MT Stage 3 02 S6 6MT swap 93 S4 project [sold - 90 Miata - summer/project car, turbo w/ goodies, DIYPNP, springs/struts, etc.] [sold - 08 MS3 GT - intake/downpipe/tuning/fuel pump/TMIC/springs/struts/etc.] |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm going to take it to a local shop to take the intake off and clean the intake valves next month some time. If that doesn't fix it I'll go from there. The way I figure it, I'm at almost 30k miles and they need cleaning no matter what, judging by pics I've seen of intake valves of many other direct injected cars. So it's something worth doing either way. I'm pretty sure this is the main reason for the power loss, and for a fact, at least SOME of it. So regardless of where the real problem may lie, this needs done anyhow.
__________________ 09 Speed 3 GT |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I was between 200-205 on all 4. Though it wouldn't be a bad idea to check after running my 2100 PSI test. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score From left to right: Cold: 180, 170, 170, 175 Hot- drove it like i stole it till ECT 190c- 175,170,165,165 25000 miles, MSCAI, CS midpipe, PP 5/40 for most of the cars life. Oh yeah and a recently drained of all oil run home from the store. Piston tops looked a bit crusty, nothing a few ccs of Seafoam sitting on them for 15 mins didnt help. Recently Seafoamed thru the intake tracts that produced miles of thick grey smoke. Next step leakdown test..............
__________________ Stock as hell and hating it! u can Haz foley! |
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__________________ Stock as hell and hating it! u can Haz foley! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 GT 73,xxx Miles 1- 172 2- 170 3- 169 4- 165 Very happy with the results had the car for a year and loving every day
__________________ 07 Speed 3 COBB AP / Sure Aeros SRI / HTP TIP / PG Pipes/Godspeed Type C Core / Autotech Internals / PTP Injector Seals / CNT Catless TBE / Sure TIG / CP-e 75A RMM / SU PMM & TMM / JBR SSP / JBR Heavy Shift Knob / KSport Kontrol Pro CO / JBR RSB / HTP Battery Tray / Prosport Boost Gauge Permed CORN Fed 25% - SOLD[COLOR="Blue"][CENTER]2012 Speed 3 - Sold |
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26k on the ODO Drivers side 190 190 185 190 Passengers side Mods: SRI/TIP/FMIC/HPFP/TP/CBE/DJ Tune first test was only with SRI/TIP/Akuma Tune guess its wearing in better.....or DJ has some black magic in his tunes | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Lol Great #'s for sure though.
__________________ 500awhp 440awtq uncorrected ![]() EFR8374 ms6, no meth, 50/50 e85, and IDCs in the 90's @ 500+ awhp, with room to grow... fifth port winning. Count down to head lift.... 3.... 2.... 30r ms3 dd on deck, has fuel... needs top mount turbo lovin' next... Check out the hair Salon: www.permtuning.com |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Arrr, I bought an Ebay 10mm lighted USB inspection camera just so I could take a look down the plug holes myself. That's how dedicated to DISI I am.... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yep...looks a little like this, as viewed through the spark plug hole...
__________________ ![]() 2008 GT MS3 - 307 WHP/338 WTQ ATP GTX2867R - HTP 3" Intake - Cobb FMIC pipes + Treadstone TR8L - Cobb Catted Turboback - Cobb XLE BPV - Denso ITV22 plugs - Corksport Injector Seals - KMD HPFP - Cobb AP - CP-E RMM - Southbend Stage 3 Enduro Clutch/Flywheel - Bilstein B8s + Swift Springs - SPC Rear Camber Arms - Hotchkis RSB - MD OCC Kit - Enkei RPF1 - Bridgestone Potenza S-04 235/40/18 1995 Miata Dunlop Direzza Star Specs 185/60/14 - Koyo 37mm radiator - NAPA blank rotors - StopTech Street Performance pads - 949 Racing XIDA CS Coilovers - IL Motorsports suspension bushings - Racing Beat FSB - 949 Endlinks |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Compression will differ slightly based on oil used, atmospheric pressure etc ... test on a warm sunny day (high pressure) for best results. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I've had to clean my piston tops twice (long story lol). Best thing you can do to stop crud from forming on your pistons/valves is to run an OCC and block off the EGR valve. Those with a newer valve cover with the different baffle might have less oil picked up on the breather tube. Just the nature of a direct injection engine. On a side note, once you see/think you have lower compression, a leak down test is your best friend. I have yet to do one but wish I had earlier before I took the engine apart lol. In my case, looks like it is going to be the injector seals that are toast (see Change those seals yo).
__________________ '06 MS6 Sport 130,000km Cobb TIP, CP-E TMIC, AEM oversied CAI, CP-E Safe seals, BSD, AP Garaged: custom race Magnaflow catbck |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Okay, here's my turn. Did the test yesterday when changing the spark plugs. Ambient was about 77. Elevation approx 511 ASL. The car runs fine, the vacuum at idle is 21ish. 35k miles on the clock. 183 176 176 183 Confused about the difference between two central cylinders and the other two.. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Normal to see accelerated wear on the inner cylinders of any in line engine. Typically, they run hotter than the outer 2. I'd be concerned if the 3s were way down on 2 adjacent cylinders, indicating a hg leak. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Went ahead and tested my car again today. 2009 Speed3, 42,600miles, more than half of that was stage 1, car is stage 2 now. Was roughly 80degrees out when I tested, 570~ ASL. 1: 185 2: 185 3: 185 4: 185 Only did 6 cranks to get these readings, 7 on cylinder 1. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I had my inj seals replaced with the safeseals and asked for a before and after compression check. I asked them to do the check on a warm engine but they did the b/f with a cold one anyway... b/f replacement of seals (cold engine) in psi 1: 160 2: 130 3: 130 4: 160 after replacement of seals (warm engine) in psi 1: 160 2: 130 3: 115 4: 160 Compression results are pretty bad I guess. Cylinder 3 is obiously out of spec, what a surprise. I'm at 103k miles most of which have been with an upgraded TMIC, BPF and catback. Never used anything else then premium 98ron fuel. Dealer overfilled the oil a couple of times but as I check the level regularly I noticed and had them drain it the next day. I had some crazy knock counts when my timing chain tensioner gave up but other than that all has been fine. Last couple of months I started noticing 2 - 4° KR past 4k rpm when getting on the gas especially after a 4 - 5 gear change. Based on the info on the forum I suspected that the seals had gone bad. Well the good news is WOT KR is back to less than one degree which is were it has always been so my seals were probably somewhat toasted and the safeseals are taking better care of the injectors now. When I got the car I thought getting 125 - 150k miles out of this car would be no problem but now I don't know if it's going to hold that long. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score just hit 50k and i have 180 in all cylinders i guess im good for another few miles until my shit explodes |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
I would get this redone and get a leakdown test done as well to see what is leaking compression. Are you burning any oil? | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I didn't attend the testing, it was all done by a local ford /mazda dealer. They're good people but kinda old school. I would expect the test to be better after replacement of the seals not b/c of the seals but b/c the engine was hot compared to the 'cold' before test (so I guess they took it for a drive after replacing the seals). The 115 psi kinda freaked me out but the car does run 'normal'. Only anomaly is the WOT knock in higher gears which got slightly better after the seal replacement. I have to add oil regulary but no more than one to two liter between dealer visits (every 10k). I think most of the oil consumption is related to crankcase ventilation. I have an oil trail from the valvecover vent to the intake and TIP and the flange on the cold side of the IC is an oily mess. I had the dealer clean the entire intake side b/c it needed to be disassembled for the seal swap. They told me it was very oily and the valves were basically carbon turds. They didn't dare to clean the valves though. So I went back two days ago and had them run a "sea foam" kind of product which helped recover some smoothness of the engine. I asked for another compression test but they didn't have the time. It would probably be best to try and get a second opinion on that compression test or man up and try it myself. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score On the motor i'm currently building, the machinist mentioned that he wanted to clean up the valves and valve seats... because they were pretty pitted. Kinda makes sense to me, judging from how much carbon build up they see with DI. Yet i don't recall anyone having bad leakage past the valves, etc. MPS, i wonder if your test would be any different if you sea foamed the car.
__________________ 500awhp 440awtq uncorrected ![]() EFR8374 ms6, no meth, 50/50 e85, and IDCs in the 90's @ 500+ awhp, with room to grow... fifth port winning. Count down to head lift.... 3.... 2.... 30r ms3 dd on deck, has fuel... needs top mount turbo lovin' next... Check out the hair Salon: www.permtuning.com |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well the dealer ran some sort of a seafoam product through the car a couple of days after I had the seals changed but they didn't have time to do another compression test. I'm going to look into doing a compression test myself when I come back from holidays to see what I come up with. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I will never get an compression test. Ignorance is bliss. Plus I've recorded my favorite saying so when passengers ask me, "what's that noise?" I put the recording on loop "its suppose to sound like that"
__________________ [07:25 PM] Pu Manchu: the second rule is "don't tell anyone" [07:25 PM] Pu Manchu: the first rule of tranny fucking is "don't do it" |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I have noticed on more "tired" engines that there is a lot of oil in the valvecover to intake line and down the intake. Oil there is a sign of blowby - in other words there is quite a bit of gas getting past the rings which lines up with the lower compression. Any serious shop would do a leakdown test at this point. |
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![]() | | #232 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So, I ran a test yesterday. 67k miles, 104 degrees outside, let idle up to 180 degrees coolant temp. Then did the test. 86,89,85,89. Im not sure why they're are so low, as to if it was a bad gauge, poor tester (me), or what. I just changed the oil the day before the so the oil was brand new. My car runs fine, but that shit is low, at least its consistent.
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if those were really your numbers your car would run like shit - most likely w/ coolant temp thru the roof or bellowing smoke out the exhaust
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The gauge was the oem brand rental from autozone. Looked normal to uss. Think it went up to like two hundred on psi side. Never saw anything above 89 when doing it. No smoke and car still beasts on peopleople so i have a feeling it had to be the gauge
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__________________ ![]() ![]() Inb4 85% silicone core. It's better than aluminum. What's you buddy's ex wife trap? I <3 SP63, but that port job though... "The coolant must be evaporating." Bye Felicia "Exclusivity" - CP-enis Demodded. The Seals |
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__________________ ![]() ![]() Inb4 85% silicone core. It's better than aluminum. What's you buddy's ex wife trap? I <3 SP63, but that port job though... "The coolant must be evaporating." Bye Felicia "Exclusivity" - CP-enis Demodded. The Seals |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score 08.5 MS3 47k km 1 (driver side): 195 2: 190 3: 195 4: 195 Cranked about 16 times until needle stopped climbing. Engine was warm to the touch but not hot.
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