does cam gear need to be aligned?
 

okay... here's the story... just got done building the engine. fired her up.
she was running beautiful.... took it for a test run....
after 15 min of driving mil light came on. P0012
checked for code and camshaft position sensor was reading over retarding.
so took off cps and cleaned off the assembly lube and other stuff that got on it. and did oil change ( one hour of driving and idling approx 30 miles )
took it for another spin.... ( two hour drive ) car runs smooth but the mil light keeps popping up... (drove approx 250 miles total)
did oil change, removed vc and rear plug. set it to tdc and the camshaft alignment tool just slipped right in so the timing didn't go off.
removed the ocv valve and tested according to service manual and cleaned
reinstalled everything took it for another spin.... same result mil light came on.
so here's my question...
the manual tells you to just use the sst tool for tdc and for the camshaft. but i noticed there's a mark on the crankshaft gear, exhaust camshaft gear, and on the intake vvt gear. so here's the question where is it suppose to line up to?
according to the manual you stick the tools in set it up and torque the camshaft gear, install front timing cover, install crank pulley and torque then do two full engine cycles check timing and then reassemble.
the manual does not mention markings. the crank gear and exhaust gear i don't think might not be too big of a deal with alignment but for the intake i have a feeling that it does need to be aligned. does anyone know where it should be aligned? is mazda expecting everyone to use common sense coz if it is how come they didn't leave a mark on the cam caps or on the block or somewhere to line it up to?
thinking maybe it's the way the gears are sitting that's making it throw the codes up. if not i did everything according to the manual except change out the pcm.

Subbing for results.

Might just be a bad cam position sensor.

@06Speed6 @djuosnteisn @SSinstaller @SilverDemon

If the car is timed properly, and the gap on the crankshaft sensor is set correctly, than it might just be a bad sensor or a pinched wire.

It sounds like you have been over all the bases, camshaft plate, crankshaft TDC pin, and the crank pulley pin all line up with the specified tooth (I can't remember for sure which tooth) on the crank pulley, you should be golden. After the 2nd time the light came on did you remove the CPS to see if it had any contamination on it?

Oh, yeah, shot in the dark here, but did you have the valve cover powder coated? If you did, was the machined surface for the CPS taped off, so the distance from the pulse wheel to the sensor didn't change?

Edit: I know if the oil control valve does not have the proper oil flow it will not shift the VVT and will cause that mil to pop on. I am not sure how someone would test oil flow to the valve itself though.

According to the manual crank sensor is suppose to be on counting counter clockwise twenty tooth from the open gap. Put it on dead center and when I was checking timing I just double checked that too and did not move. Thinking about taking it apart again and try aligning those marks on the exhaust and crank gear to something and the intake Vvt gear I guess I'll have to find a way on how it needs to be aligned.
Maybe the oil supply holes aren't aligned from the gear to the cams that could make it throw off reading?
Isn't the theory for the Vvt to work the ocv open or closes sending oil through cam and cam going into Vvt gear? So if the lines aren't aligned properly could prevent from advancing like it should coz not enough volume or pressure? Just a thought

If it isnt throwing the code at idle, something with the advance isnt right. There is no cam advance at or near idle.

If it was a crank/cam position sensor fault or misalignment then it should throw the code regardless of rpm.

EDIT: I dont have a VVT in front of me, but the VVT's position on the intake cam absolutely has to be marked prior to disassembly and it absolutely has to be reinstalled in that same position. There are 2 or 3 oil holes in the cam that need to line up with the oil holes in the VVT. If the position wasnt marked, you can probably remove the VVT and mark the center of one of the holes and then mark the center of the matching hole on the cam.

thanks.... i guess that's going to be my weekend project.... will post on how it goes...and if my hands aren't too dirty i'll take some shots...

Could this cause the engine to not start? im having a similar issue with mine right now.

No it should still start.

Its easy enough to test if its a vvt alignment issue. Just set the vvt table to all 0's, and go drive.. If you dont get the mil you know the vvt is the issue. If you still get the mil, try replacing the cam sensor..

could setting them all to 0 cause any issues? I am getting the same code as well.

It'll feel like a dog at low/mid throttle, but if the base timing is set properly it cant cause any problems.

so to make it 0 do i just unplug the ocv? or are you saying to go into the maps and dial it all to 0? and if it's that's the case couldn't a tuner be able to tune the vvt so the codes won't throw? i'm really getting tired of tearing this car down and back testing... i've torn this thing down i think more than six times now... and i'm getting so sick of it i'm planning on making a tool where i could reach into the intake cam bolt without havin to remove the front cover...

hey there
i read one of your posts about vvt actuator
did u know anay way to solve the problem how to get intake cam and actuator alignment.?
am dying to know the way chanded the actuator 2 times and noise still there
need your help my car "06 mazda 6 2.3 l 4

You better be a troll.

My previous vehicle had a similar problem, would throw a code after a drive, none during warm up/idle; it came down to how hot the engine/ambient temperature was and it was a cam position sensor, this kept happening until the crank position sensor failed and the motor would not start (it could operate with either sensor down but not with both... go figure) replaced them and it all went away, it might be a position sensor that is marginal until it gets warm...

worst fear that i have to change my VVT actuator:worried:.... again

am worry about the noise my car makes
when i start up engine (hard starting) there is no noise after it warms up noise come like it turns to diesel engine
beside there is rough idle weak acceleration
i changed my vvt gear

there is noise after it warms up *

I dont think this is 100% true just because I am currently building my engine and putting in new cams and no where in the assembly notes does it state this. It basically tells you to hand tighten your cam gears until you time the engine and after you time it you tighten to the correct tq value.

I would think mazda would be smart enough to put that in the assembly notes. I could be wrong though. If I am wrong then good thing I read this. lol

Corksports Cam install directions dont mention anything about it either.

http://support.corksport.com/instruc...-6-501-WEB.pdf

I just want to get it right thats why I ask or bring it up.

VVT most certainly does not need to be installed a certain way the holes line up with a slot which ends up connecting them.

wish it's true
i'll tell you whats happening and thanx for advice :)

OP it sounds like your timed wrong or your crank sensor isn't lined up. Another possibility is oil flow issues. If that's the case it's time for a block.

When you check timing do you have a bunch of slack in the chain?

I leave my sprockets loose when I put the chain on, then torque sprockets and make sure chain is tight, pull tensioner pin. That way it's always done right. You can be off a tooth if the sprockets are positioned to the point where the chain is difficult to put on. The chain should never ever be hard to to put on.

i did all steps as u say tension was good all things seems good except cams timing i guess it kinda retarded than crank timing ,
my check light codes are: P0012 intake camshaft timing over retarded-bank1
i'll re-timing my cams still am afraid the diesel engine sound occurs after engine worms up
if sound related ti oil flowing issues ...? ( i removed cylinder head cover and checked OCV flter and cleaned it nothing change ) + VVT notches are aligned

Vvt can still be bad when the notches are aligned and the plug is still intact. Ask me how I know.

If you are 110% sure everything is good than it has to be something else.

Are you tuned?

Also pull your valve cover and snap a pic. I had a cx7 that ran between extended oil changes (7-10k) and it murdered that car. P0012 also. The noise you may be hearing is sludge build up too.

P0012 also indicates the following...

-ocv malfunction
-low engine oil pressure
-spool valve in ocv stuck in retard position
-vvt sticking
-the following oil runners are clogged
(1)-between oil pressure switch and ocv
(2)-between ocv and vvt
(3)-inside vvt
-loose timing chain/improper timing due to slippage (I hope you replaced all 3 shims)
-PCM failure (doubt it.)

Good luck, I'm thinking you need a engine. The timing chains on this vehicle are NOT a maint item. They breakdown/stretch due to oil starvation and abuse.

Plenty of cx7's and speeds that come in with the original chain/vvt.

Oil changes full syn every 3k.

i replaced vvt actuator before 3 days
as i know vvt noise occurs when you start engine
mine happens when the engine warms up and never stop
i changed oil and nothing change
am tuning it right now
if there is oil flow issue how can i know it or solve it..?

Also to add... Mazda added that SSP policy to the disi motors because the failure rate was so high due to neglect from the customer they did not want to lose business.

About half to 3/4 of disi owners do not know how to take care of these cars properly.

That's the problem.. There isn't a way to diagnose oil galleys unless you find a machine shop to do it.

Why are you replacing the vvt/chain to begin with.

Also, did you replace the chain?

my serious problem in my country there is no mazda dealer or professional mazda machine shop not even spare parts

oil level on machine head is good i guess but do you recommended using engine flush for opning closed ports " if they are closed " ..?

i replaced my vvt actuator because there was noise when starting up engine , i checked notches ,turn counterclockwise they neva aligned so i have to replace it
i didn't replace chain

PS. car starting up after i chabged vvt didn't go well first time due chain jumped 'tension wasn't enogh ' 6 valves broke changed the and head gasket and checked clearance it's all good set timing righ and tension was good engine start but noise after warms up came there 'never stop'

Replace the chain. It's hitting the valve cover. The car can be timed right, but if the chain is stretched it will throw a p0012 because the extra slack in the chain will throw off timing after it's set.


Edit: Sorry OP. I didn't realize I was jacking your thread. I thought this guy was the OP. Fack.

ocv in full retard position and works
engine oil level is good "oil check didn't come on "
i'll check inside vvt tomorrow and snap a pic
donno how can i thank you any way i'll post the pic and wish i can find solution without changing eengine
thanks again for your precious advice i'll check every thing you said and let you know

Man yall dug up my post from the archives lol, yeah we know now that it doesn't need to be aligned.