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| MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline Discussion of engine, tranny and drivelines. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Is there something I'm doing wrong?(other than moar power/longer prybar).
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| Engineered Tuning ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada
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A prybar is nice but you need to impact it to get the snap ring off. I have used several methods in the past: 1. Popped out the other axle and gone through the centre of the differential with a punch and a hammer. Not sure if there is enough clearance in the MS3 LSD to do this. 2. Attach a chain around the CV where it goes into the tranny and yanked on it. Don't pull the car off the jack stands. 3. Hammered a really solid pry bar. You need a big pry bar that doesn't deflect much and a BFH. 4. Used a wedge you can hammer between the tranny and the CV. You can even try a large ball joint remover. 5. If you are going to pry some more, maybe get a buddy to also pry at 180 degrees from where you're prying so you're not wedging the little snapring between the splines in there. Also spin the axle to try a different spot to pry on just in case the snapring is wedged. Replace the seals on the tranny if you mangle them doing this and remember impacting it somehow is the most effective.
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what makes this axle difficult to take off versus other cars? When I worked at a dealer techs could swap out axles in no time at all. In fact, most customers saved money long term going with an aftermarket axle replacement versus paying the time for a boot kit replacement on a high mileage axle.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Lex , I appreciate the advice very much. For the 1st idea, I put pics on post 6. That's what you meant, right? I thought about sticking something inside, but I wasn't too sure of what's in there/i'd break anything. I've just about had it with this thing by just trying to pry it. Lol, now I'm stuck reading everything you say with your voice and when I look over, I see a cat doing pushups. It gets me everytime Though mOBSCENE did offer his assistance, maybe i'll let him mangle with it before trying your way. Lol, just kidding, I wouldn't torture him like that.
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I see. So it isnt like youre trying to do the job without a specific tool, its just the design?
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Alright so I took a few pics(damn cellphone with night flash) to show you guys what's through the passenger's axle. It seems like i'd need something with a point to it, I'm guessing the black bar separates the two or something? I honestly have no idea what's going on in there.
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Yeah the tools that Hyundai would send us were sometimes not reorderable.
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Pull the trans with the axle. Had to do that on my 3, rather than risk destroying an axle. Those things really suck to get out.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So does this mean I'm finished messing with it or do I have to remove the hub/other pieces? Grizzly bear with me, i'm slow in da head
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By snapring I meant c-clip - DOH! phate might have a point since you're pulling the entire thing out - pull it out with the axle. If it doesn't fit nicely you can take inner CV joint apart. Just mark both sides so that you can put them together the same way and this will cost you replacing the boot. If you look through the passenger side and can see and get to the other side axle you can see about using a punch. Otherwise, don't ruin the diff
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You can either get the axle out of the knuckle, or leave the knuckle and pull everything lol. The axles usually aren't too terrible to get out of the hub (easier than out of the trans). There's not enough room to get a bar or punch through from the other side.
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Awe, alright, I'll see if i can pull it how it is first...lol less work
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I actually just bought some tools for this. I have had plenty of cars that I lost a lot of religion/blood removing axles. The tools I just got are really like oversized ball joint forks like Lex said. It's a wide fork with nice thick/wide flanges so you can get a solid bite. They have worked great for me. Got em from Matco for like 45$. I'd figure that's what the Mazda sst is, or at least that's what they had when I worked for em.
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I'll just use a big crowbar or something, gonna drop the motor from underneath and deal with the axle later. Gonna start ordering parts and get this bitch put back together. The real fun is about to start
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ive never had a problem removing an axle like this on any car.and i also have a 5ft prybar when things are tough get the biggest pry bar you can get, try jerking the pry bar instead of apply steady pressure. a neat little trick ive found works a lot also is pry on the axle with a good effort. take a good size hammer and tap the metal housing of the inner cv while applying pressure. this should jar the axle enough to get it to pop past the c clip on the inside
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Driver side fucked my couch. I tried a BFH with a crow bar. Ended up pulling the trans out with the driver side axle in place. Popped right out with the same damn tools. Had to pull the trans anyways for a clutch and flywheel replacement.
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Any news - is it out?
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damn i didn't have such an issue on a friends speed when we pulled his. i had him on the outside tugging on the axle while i was underneath with a pray bar trying to pop the axle it. Just prying on it didn't work me so I would have him tug while i pryed with a hammering motion (i.e. kept putting pressure and releasing fast) and the axle popped right out. Just luck? lol his car has been fine after the install as well |
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When I replaced mine I had to hit it repeatedly with a sledge.
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I am guessing your main issue is that you're not pulling with the axle striaght. With the arm disconnected and the knuckle and arm just hanging on it the axle is going to be fighting an angle and the splines will bind slightly. not only that but the c-clip needs to line up evenly on all sides or it wont want to compress into its groove.
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Lol, jesus this thread has progressed. Alright, so today I managed to pull the motor from the car, underneath. After much thought, I may not need to remove the axle if i'm going to install it from the bottom. But progress has been made, starting the tear down. Just a very, very slow process
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so wait, you were able to get the axle outta the hub? that's my big problem. DS axle won't budge outta the hub.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score yea, just unscrew the nut(you need a new one anyways) a few threads so it sticks out. Then just hit that shit with a mallet.....oyea and a "fuck you" attitude
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That, or use a pulley puller, or something similar. I'm going to try a new method tomorrow that might save some headache.
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| yeah, I hit with 3 different mallets. I only succeeded in flattening the end of the axle. So much so that I had to angle grind it down to get the axle nut back over it when I gave up, lol.
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I recently had to remove the ds axle on a members car at my shop. used a hub puller and a big hammer and an air hammer. only thing that worked was the air hammer and alot of force from the mallet. had to replace the axle because the tip was so mushroomed. as for the trans side, big hammer and a long prybar did the trick. never had this much trouble with any axle.
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So i was reading this as i was about to pull mine off for replacement. I have changed many freightliner and international axles but this was my first fwd axle.. So small hihi. I also noticed the inner retainer clip fairly strong compaired to what i was told. Here is what i did. What i did is 1. Make sure your wheels are chocked !!! 2. Remove all skid plastic to allow room to swing. 3. "If replacement" remove axle from cup, leaving only the cup. 4. Remove boot to expose the lip around the 3 edges of cup 5. Place "Vise-grip" on the lip then rotate until you can swing on the visegrips 6. I used a 3 lbs hammer. On my back and head under axle cut feet away from car. 7. Place a rag in the opening between the jaws at equal lenth. VERY VERY important. Make sure to have a straight pull on the cup dont pull down or up in the center only. 8. Once your in position and your sure all the slack is taken from you pulling like a madman hulk like figure, SWING THAT BADBOY HARD !!!!! On the tip of the vise grip and off it comes first shot. I like to specify when i explain something. I really hope this helps someone ! After all i'm canadian hey !!!! |
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I just removed my drivers side axle today and here is a tip on getting it out. Head to sears or wherever and buy a ball joint pickel fork. I stuck this up there and struck it one time with a hammer and it popped it right off. Much better then a pry bar which flexes, this is solid steel and very thick and wont flex. This made my life easy and did zero damage to the seal or the axle when removing it. Just my 2 cents for anyone else trying to pull their driver side axle. K Tool International BALL JOINT SEPARATOR PICKLE FORK - Tools - Mechanics & Auto Tools - Automotive Specialty Tools
__________________ Eric Schlaht - Arizona Phoenix Photographer http://www.esimaging.net - http://www.facebook.com/esimaging ![]() 2007 MS3 Sport, gtx3071r, 3" HTP TIP, 3" Treadstone MAF, 3 Bar MAP, Grimmspeed ECBS, CP-E FMIC, CP-E DP, CP-E SAFE Seals, CP-E RMM, SU PMM, TRZ TMM, PTP FP Internals, DCR VVT, JBrone Shift Plate, SU Shifter Bushings, HKS SSQV, ITV22, DO Stage 2 Meth, Evo X Wheels, 245/40-18 Nitto NT05, Koni Sports + H&R Springs **411whp/409lb-ft via Mustang Dyno as of 2/25/13** |
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