Driver311 vs. Intake manifold
 

So while I have my dnp manifold off getting ceramic coated I decided to tackle some mods to my intake manifold. Wasnt quite sure what I was gonna do exactly but figured once it was off I could come up with a game plan. Man I was not pumped about how hard this thing was to get off. REally not fun at all, but after an hour I had it off.

So my car has roughly 4k on my new motor. Pretty much brand new still, but to my suprise there was alot of oil in the manifold and on my valves. Fuck!!! I have an egr delete to but apparently I need a catch can also. I guess Ill add that this go around. Should only be a few days before back on the car. This is all part of my plan to hit my goal of 400whp with a atp3071r, hopefully on pump 20-22psi. I know alot of you guys will say its not possible but I seem to have a nack of proving people wrong, LOL. I dont think this goal is a far stretch and I guess "we will see". Im not gonna dyno at 14 dynoes to prove my point either lol.

Here are a few pics to start. Ill post more soon.

Looks clean to me... you gotta realise that it will never be 100% clean.

NO inside there was a puddle 1/8th inch think. Ill post pics of valves also. They are bad already. I might just do meth for this reason.

Methanol you dipshit.. keeps the engine clean.. its your only hope.. catch can is bullocks.

So here is what I did. I pulled the flaps and bar out. I cut the bar right at the inlet side so that it could still plug the hole so no welding was needed. I removed the last runners hump and mildly ported out all ports to match gasket. Some runners needed more work than others. I also took out a good amount of material where the tb is to match it all up nice. Ill post pics later tonite. I think its gonna definately give me some gains. Just taking bar and plates out would be noticable im sure.

Im on it boss. LOL

me thinks 400whp on 20-22 is doable.

i made 398 on a dynojet at 19psi...

i wish there was an easy way for us to route the pcv to the exhaust venturi style. but there is no cheap solution for us it seems

Here are some updated pics of the work I did tonight. Let me know what you think. The only thing I didnt take a pic of is the port where the black box goes on top. I tapped it for another boost source. That way i can use it for a bc source and the other for my bov.

time to bolt this sonofabitch up and go turn in some 11s already !!!!!!!!

so what is the black box on the top of the mani ?

and did you leave the linkage in the one end, to keep from getting the code? or are you welding up the holes?

black box is vac control for the vtcs - if you eliminate the vtcs you don't need it

Yes I cut the rod and left the sensor plugged in. On the box i just removed it and put the sensor under the intake mani plugged in still. Im sure itll be just fine. With all that crap removed and light porting I think its gonna work pretty slick. If I got 10whp Id be really pumped. We will see.

oh but you will get more i have gotten 20 on a couple of the ported ones i have done. Also i would make the in between the runners a little thinner..

Heres some pics of the new port I tapped into the intake manifold and how it looks with the black box gone. so much better.

unless you needed a vacuum source you could have blocked off the top of mani and got rid of the box all together..

I needed it.

have you got it running yet? how does it act in cold weather? i heard they run shitty in the cold, i don't see what diff it would make though.

i want to do this, but don't want a cel, id have to disable the cel light to ceep it from bugging me lol.

I feel the same thats why I left it plugged in and hope it wont come on. If so Ill just turn it off.

i have the fix for that !!!

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...l/IMG_1983.jpg

i have to find the part number for the relay but with this you can take the diaphram and the black box off and run with out any codes ever!! the relay is behind the black and grey harnesses to the right...

About the cold weather, what happens is when the car is warming up and the ECT is under 140 the car will run sorta choppy i believe because it is running pretty rich. But once it gets warmed up the car is fine.

DEI 8616 Mini Relay

ATR can disable VCTS / EGR /cat converter delete check engine lights now.

Can be had for under 20 bucks!!!

DEI 8616 Mini Relay 20/10-amp mini relay assembly at Crutchfield.com If anyone wants i can post the color codes for you installation..

2008 time machine

LOL, yea. that info was posted by SSinstaller a looong long time ago. Not sure why i remembered the part number though, lol.

Drove it tonite for the first time. Car runs great. I think it runs better if anything. Hard to say but it does run great. Ill be posting logs soon. I took some before I did the work also.

any loss in boost? should be about 2 psi!!! Just installed my ported intake back on my car last week and i have to re-do my fuel trims because of it!!!

Yes a little loss in boost. Pretty much was running 19.5psi before and now its running 17.5-18psi. Making the same gs though. So it looks like its making more power for sure. I was seeing 320-330gs before and now its 330-340gs. Im excited to see what it does on the dyno.

[QUOTE=socks;653216]LOL, yea. that info was posted by SSinstaller a looong long time ago. Not sure why i remembered the part number though, lol.[

ya could you post the work around or link thanks!

i looked and couldn't find it, im going to work mine over sooner than later

did you the PnP the same way as driver did it OR did you cut open the IM and did the complete manifold?

Nice work there Anthony!!!

the restrictions you removed with the VTCS is why boost is lower, yes?

so you are getting more airflow at lower PR = Win

my concern would be if the flow is better balanced than OEM which is my biggest beef with the OEM setup.

should have taped that bitch for meth while you had it off LOL. 1-2-3-4 2gph nozzles [X4] port injected WMI FTW.

Did the same as driver.. here are a couple of pics of one of the mani i did..
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b.../p3dyno013.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b.../p3dyno016.jpg
last runner that had the hump in it..
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...to/p3039-1.jpg

What might be the differences in gain from this port job compared to a full one when you open up the IM?

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...take-hp-61778/

With 2 psi less we made 5 hp more with no tuning. with tuning we made a shit ton more torque at about 3500. i will find the chart and post it when i get it..

Hum

I don't want a shit ton more TQ @3.5k. LOL


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dont be a bitch send me your mani. LOL Your tuning with atr anyhow so tune the midrange how ever you want, but lets get that topend dialed!!

did you weld all the holes between the runners,from the shaft? or just leave them open?

since we are sharing.....

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/w...__/RTflash.jpg
SRT sexy
http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/w...dturbo3004.jpg
http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/w...bracket012.jpg
http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/w...edmani2011.jpg
http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/w...bracket003.jpg
mazdaspeed
EGT leg cut, all exterior stands removed, flapper mount cut, everything is filled with epoxy and sanded smooth, all fittings replaced with nickel coated fittings, I have welded all the holes shut for a few guys but most have opted for the epoxy (cheaper)
and obviously the pnp work in the throat/TB mount area and runners
http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/w...icemani004.jpg
http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/w...icemani005.jpg
http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/w...icemani001.jpg

hahah

I'll think about it...

first you want me to buy your turbo and now you want to polish my knob..ur... I mean intake.