hahahahahahahahahah

Tomas : singlehandedly making wet dreams everywhere.

@Tomas have you torn down yet?

No.
Probably be another month or so before I get to it. I'd say before end of September for sure may be. lol

Ouch! Looks like I'll be attacking mine before then

Towing my car to its final destination tomorrow. I will begin tear-down shortly. Exhaust Manifold+Turbo+DP is already off, and the intake manifold is half off.

I prob wont begin tear-down till I have all the parts. Waiting on K1 Rods from Edge. Should be another week or so. Then i'm also going to be ordering Pistons from @PositiveFabrication

So, Soon i'll be :slomo:

2 weeks

go 11:1 or go home :)

but seriously what comp ratio are you going with?

Cool people do 12:1 ;)

orrly

Just saying stock for now. Im CA so we have shitty gas and im not setup to run meth and such yet. Financially this build couldn't have come at a worse time. I also still dont hve an AP.

11:1 is taken ;)

Bump @chimmike @Tomas

Have either of you started yet? Pics, updates, issues, anything?

@chimmike has been pumping out magic juice for a while now.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...-build-122409/

This is what happens when I'm not on the boards for two weeks...

Great work @chimmike, hope you get that turbo bs figured out soon

subbed

Phoenix : thread tools -> subscribe. It keeps the thread cleaner.

Ok, so I'm thinking to go forged and I was set on Carrillo A-beam (lighter, and still strong enough for what I need) and MS3 gen2 smiley face pistons. Yesterday a friend of mine with a shitty tune (lots of advance, lots of boost, and still on stock K04) blew a piston on a gen2 which made me consider the forged pistons alternatives as well. I'm not decided yet and I will not before I get some facts from people who've been through this.

Also, probably the OEM pistons + rings are at about the same price as the forged Wiseco's (which are the ones I have in mind).

So what other side effects apart from piston slap when cold should I expect with the forged pistons?
Will the engine be noisier as well (all I'm concerned about is the cabin noise)?
The forged pistons can also be used with an OEM piston rings set or only their own?

The weather here is like Georgia during summer and Canada during winter. Is this bad for forged setups like the one I have in mind (carrillo+wiseco) or for the cylinder walls or it doesn't really matter and it's only a problem of extra noise?

Pistons come with their own set of rings, I will say that a set of OEM rings will not fit on anything else but an OEM piston...

There's also issues with running stock pistons on aftermarket rods, not sure of the brands, but some guys have had issues getting the rods to mate up with the OEM pistons at the wrist pins as the eye is thicker than stock.

I would say, you're already rebuilding, do it right the first time and get the whole kit a kaboodle.

Correct..

Not only the size (Diameter) of the ring, but even the thickness of it has to be spot on to the piston makers specifications.

The Take-away point here is...

Use the Rings that are offered by the manufacturer of the Pistons... No Substitute.

You will just run the risk of folding a Ring Over inside the cylinder and then you will be taking the bus.

http://images.zap2it.com/images/movi...furious-21.jpg

@mituc - Hey, Check out @PositiveFabrications' pistons. They're very nice, specially designed for the MS/DISI-MZR. They're Forged Smiley face pistons and they're decently priced!
@Clint@posifab.com

Heres what they look like. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...9/#post1500858
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...9/#post1547531

Unless he's considering a higher concentration of e85 the higher compression pistons aren't the best idea.

Well fellas, I did it. If I did, anyone else can too. Just be thorough in your preparation and research, take your time and do it right.

I get no piston slap when "cold" (but we're talking summertime cold, 70's in the mornings) with the CP pistons. Running 5w30.

The pistons are custom. I'm getting entire stock spec for pistons. Bore, Compression, Etc. Just forged and has fuel relief. So he can have stock compression, even more/less if he so desires.

Thanks for clarifying. It's nice to have another option

We are doing stock compression ratio as well, though I am not sure we will be able to go below stock compression.

I can haz??

If you went from 9.5 to 10 would u need e85 to run that at the same power levels as 9.5 on pump

Sent from galaxy Nexus vis CM10

PM me if your interested.

Who doesn't want more E85?

Everyone should...lol. But I have no idea what corn availability is like across the pond

Sadly not readily available here in Canada either.

Thanks man, that's good to know as from what you're saying may be what I'm looking for even if for now I postponed the rebuild, I decided to wait at least until it will burn a drop of oil at like 2-3 changes.

Well, now that my brain hurts from all that reading... Sorry to rez the old as dirt thread, but what was the consensus on this? I had the idea to drop the oil pan, pop the heads, and just swap rods/rod bearings. I think the OEM pistons will be fien. Has anybody actually done this yet? Provided the block is in good shape, this should be fine?

I'm really only shooting for mid-low 400's and I think upgrading rods would reliably allow me to do this.
@atvfreek; @phate; @MS3-a(sore)ASS-rex; @gingermike;

Don't waste your time to do all that work and keep the stock pistons. Enough evidence around to show ringlands crack too.

If you do it, buy new OEM bearings, and have the bearings and the big end of the rods measured by a machine shop, and I'd have someone help you gap the rings who has experience. Assuming your bores are clean, a simple hone with the craftsman tool should suffice to deglaze. I'd also have a machine shop assembled the pistons on the rods.

Use a plastigauge to measure the tolerances on the rod bearings to the crank and make sure they're in spec. If not, you may need to try different bearings or look into other options.

Use a good OEM headgasket, and use good studs, H11's or L19s. Probably a good idea to have the head decked, it's probably warped and off by a few thousandths....pretty common.

Well shit. There goes that idea of pulling the car in, jacking it up and building the engine in a weekend. Might as well just build a block and swap with how much work that'll be. Thanks man.


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how many miles on your engine?
mine had around 42k when I did the rod piston swap with the block in the car.
it took about 40 hours over 4 days. also not the first engine ive torn into.
if you know what your doing and have at least one good helper you could probably get it done in three days or less.

building one and swapping is the better way to do it though.

Lol 96k. That's the scary part. I'm doing a compression test tomorrow, but the engine seems healthy.


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my bores were clean with 82k on them.

If your engine is fine, then getting a second block and selling your old block should be pretty easy.