DYNO'd my 3 I'm shocked.
 

Well i went to my local shop that i goto and shoot the shit from time to time. Also they are a authorized cobb tuner and seller so i also go there to get my cobb stuff and will be going there and getting my access port the day it comes out and will be dynoing it again with the different tunes. Well i walk in and the owner jj asked if i wanted to dyno my car to get some base line numbers before we start messing with the access port i said sure. this is the first speed 3 to be dyno'd in their shop so everyone was asking me since i work for mazda what i thought i'd be putting down and then everyone started taking bets. First pull was a 3rd pull and put down 255 Wheel horse power and 290 ft. of torque. I was shocked. All in all we did ten pulls switching between 3rd and 4th gear pulls. best run of the day was 260 wheel horse power and 305 wheel torque 4th gear pull on stock boost. only mods i have done are a cobb SRI turbos x's test pipe and turbo xs BOV and a trz motor mount. and now a modified intercooler cover. Here's the suprise of the day. We got 12-15 wheel horse power and equal torque from just removing the intercooler cover. So i modified my cover now so it lets the intercooler work better but still use the factory hood. I'll have all my dyno charts as soon as jj e-mails me them. The dyno used was a old school dynojet 240 somthing i don't remember the numbers but the program used is still old school DOS based not windows based so there's no minipulating the numbers and the dyno doesn't read high like some others do. We actually got 290 Wheel power and 315 torque but that was a fifth gear pull and the line was so shakey we didn't count it and tossed it out we just wanted to do a fifth gear run to see whats going on.

With the two performance based mods i have and little money spent i'm sooo happy and can't wait to do some more mods and specially see what the access port will do. I'll post my charts/graphs ASAP for any non believers.
also We are going to be working on a factory boost solenoid fix using a different solenoid that will help hold boost better. I was spiking 20-21 PSi hitting 15-16Psi dropping to 11-10 PSI towards redline and when almost to rev limiter it was dropping bad to 6 PSI. So a aftermarket boost controller would probally help hold boost better. I have a after market BOV so i don't think it was leaking. But we want to try using the stock controller specally with the access port so we going to try a different solenoid and see if it works. If i could have held alittle more boost better maybe would have gotten alittle better numbers. I have a video of my car on the dyno also i'm going to try and post. All and all i'm very happy and impressed with my numbers

Good news jay. Im sure everyone will ask you what your intercooler mod entails.

i think he just removed the mesh part

I figured as much.. or removed the cover completely and placed rubber on the outter edge of the IC

its not that shocking the stock ms3 is somewher around 230hp u have test pipe 10hp, intake 15-20hp, upgraded bpv 5- 10 or more hp...

RICER MATH ROCKS!!!!

everyone knows bypass valves are worth at least 50hp!

..a good bpv is good for at lest 5-10 hp whats with the 50hp sarcasm??

thats not ricer math.. those are acuurate if not conservative figures..

If your stocker is leaking.

Just playing...... :nana:

And that IS Ricer Math.... :smashfreakB:

holding more boost = more power.. you guys are last month...no last year..lol

I agree, the hp numbers aren't suprising, you only picked up 30whp from intake/test pipe. I would think you might make a little more. People pick up 20-22whp from just an intake. That about what I figured I was putting down with very similar mods.

Well i was just suprised caused i had seen what they do stock and with just a SRI and a free test pipe i'm very happy. The i/c cover mod is basicly cutting all the mesh crap out and opening up everything but still leave the bolt holes and tab in raer and side panel so the stock hood works and doesn't melt like what happens when people totally remove it. I'll take pictures and post it on here for all to see. I have some good news though. We are looking into a new boost control valve that will work with stock or flashed ecus using the stock boost control solenoid. We clearly heard and saw the stock valve trying to work so we're going to try something that on paper should work great if so it will come out as a production piece to help control the boost and stop if from going everywhere. Stock BOV leaks like crazy everyone knows so we did a leak down and found no leaks and i'm looking right as my BOV on dyno runs and didn't see it open at all so we're figuring the stock solenoid just doesn't have the muscle to do what we want it to. I lost 4 horse power when we closed the hood and put a ram fan in the grill mainly i'm guessin cause we didn't let it cool alot and my SRI didn't like the hot air.

After market boost controllers are great but i'm not trying to buy one specially when the access port is suppose help this. But all in all i'm happy. Also news for anyone is i'm lookin into buying another cover from my work and using it as a mold for a modded carbon fiber engine cover for those that don't want to cut their stockers and something that looks alittle nice. I've messed with carbon fiber in the past so it should be any more difficult then making a carbon fiber head liner or gauge pods.

I leave for new jersey for work and training tonight but i'll be back on thursday.

Your dyno numbers sound right it line with mine.

With the Cobb SF intake and a better breathing ETS alum. TMIC (full stock exhaust) my Speed3 did 270 whp and 300 wtq on a newer model Dynojet.

Pretty sure I understand what you did to the stock IC housing but I still want to see pictures.

Its amazing that simply removing the mesh around the housing would provide a gain.

yes ive done this the lasy 2 weekends while cruising around i removed the intercoolr cover and threw it in the back it does let alot more around the intercooler!! but ..also those wires are exposed so i do it on the weekend while cruising it does seem quicker it also makes my rfl bov louder too..:)

if you take it all the way off, it most likely does not perform as well. he's talking about cutting the mesh out of the center but leaving the trim around the outside in order to seal with the ducting.

I still want to see a full bolt on dyno, without a boost controller. I still don't think it has ever happened. By full bolt ons i mean intercooler, turbo back exhaust, pg intake manifold, cold air intake, just breathing stuff. Im almost positive it would be at least 300whp and probably 340torque. Wouldn't even have to touch the boost and you could probably trap 111ish. Maybe I should do it, lol, get a manifold and a downpipe, I am sure I could run a 13.2ish at 109mph or so with test pipe, manifold, cai, and downpipe. I would think that would be good for 290whp or so, seems reasonable to pick up 30whp from the manifold, as it is supposed to make 33whp itself, and a downpipe, with claims of about peak 40whp on PG. Might even be over 300whp, what do you guys think. That may be the best mod to route and not have to worry too much about fuel.

it does make a diff take it off and look at the air ducts it get alot more air with it off, and my butt dyno tells the story for sure!! def feels faster with out that black "blanket" over it..

#1. I am guessing that you mean pg EXHAUST manifold, since I don't think there is an aftermarket intake manifold on their site.
#2. this is the route I am going. not Turbo back exhaust, but manifold, downpipe and midpipe... I am thinking I'll be in the 12s with just basic bolt ons... might be overzealous, but I already ran a 13.5 with my current setup... I think the exhaust work should be good for a half a second.

I have the ETS 3.5 on already. I did look at it, and run it without the shroud. if you believe the butt dyno, I have some ocean front property for you...

oh yeah forgot you got the 3.5!! I will to soon!! it could be in my head but it is definatly makes my rfl EXTRA loud.. now it reeeally scares people in neighborhoods or just walking down the street..lol

I was driving home the other day and an mr2 was following me. loudest blow off valve I have ever heard. sounded like he was running 100psi.

he prob had the turboxs rfl like I do, they claim its the loudest BOV on the planet. I beleive them..lol I love it definatly holds boost better than stock too.

I wish my valve was quieter, although it is fun to mess with wrx's and stuff.

Ill have to get Hookedonspeed to post her charts cause she mad 250hp stock. All the pulls were 3rd gear and you can see the heat getting to the stock inter cooler as power falls after the first pull.

Yeah I didn't mean intake manifold, my bad, I mean the TURBO manifold, dyno proven gains of 32whp and 34wtq. I agree with you, i think bolt ons make this a 12 second car, I was just being conservative for argument sake.

Honestly, I don't know why people are so anxious to run boost controllers on this car when it makes minimal difference in power (I think I read somewhere than someone only saw 18whp with a 3 psi bump) and boost controllers have led to a lot of engine failures on this car. If you can run 12's with bolt ons, thats pretty awesome.

Intercooler=$500-600
Turbo manifold=$450
Test pipe=$150
Downpipe=$300
Intake=$250
___________________
Total- $1,750.

And for that, you are making almost the same amount of power as people on this board running bigger turbos. You are as fast as a stage 3 srt4 w/o toys, making the same amount of power for $1,200 less.

I ultimately see this as the route for modding that people will take. Then throw the AP on there, and make even more power, big turbo power for $2,350, and you would have to buy these parts for the big turbo to run correctly anyways. Then throw the big wheel turbo from PTP and the fuel pump, I foresee 11's for $3500 or so, kick just about anyones ass out there on the street and be making reliable power. And if you stay stock turbo I don't even think you would need a fuel pump, but if you added one then you could throw on a boost controller and make big power too for cheap.

This would be my route for modding, intake, manifold, downpipe, test pipe, intercooler.

Then once I got bored with that power (which I probably wouldn't) I would go big wheel stock turbo and fuel pump. Run 11's and be done with it. And run that speed for cheaper than you could do it in an srt4, wrx, or even an sti. Evo's are a different story though. Cams/exhaust/reflash/meth and you are in the 11's for under two grand. But still, you would only be spending 1500more for a car that costs 6k less. I think we need to start taking more advantage of this cars awesome potential with simple bolt ons before we start going big turbo and boost controller and all these other routes that can potentially grenade this fragile engine.

Jay had asked me to post these pics of the ic cover for you all to see. If you want more pics let me know and I will ask him to sened me more.

One more pic for ya. He mentioned that you will need to cut around the rear tab that attatches to the rear of the IC or it wont go back on right.

digijedi,

One thing you have to keep in mind...when you start pilling on those bolt-on's, you're going to be effecting the A/F levels. I know you caution against boost controllers because they tend to lead to overzealousness (especially the electronic ones), but you can run into the same type of program with too many bolt-on's with no tuning!

Always make sure to have some sort of monitoring system for watching the car when you are modifying! A lot of people miss this crucial step! I'm not saying you are, I'm just throwing that out there as part of the bolt-on package :).

agreed.


on a turbo engine, monitoring certain aspects of how the engine is running is pretty important. piling up mods that make for more efficient delivery of air while not worrying about fuel can cause big problems.

This mod allows air to flow around the IC instead of through it. I am not one to argue with results, but this does not make much sense to me.
-enganear

keeping in mind that adding bolt ons and raising boost is the same thing. i/ic/tbe/manifold nad ure holding 17-18 psi with no problem.

I'm not doubting your claim, but I have the intake and intercooler and I haven't seen 1psi more boost than stock... maybe it's just me?

cobb sri/3.5 ets/catted tbe/fuel pump and my car was spiking 19 holding 17. Right now witht he cs fmic my car holds 16-17

jedi.. this is the second thread where youve said that bolt ons with a big wheel turbo is gonna get us into the 11's.... easy as you put it.

Hell no man.... there might be a few guys that could do it with my car on slicks as it stands right now... but there aint anyway it would be easy. And furthermore, youve stated that the boltons with a big wheel stocker turbo "should get us 400". That aint gonna happen either.

these big wheel stockers when they first started coming out were supposed to be 20-30 whp gains... then I started hearing more like 50... now what? More? Jesus.

actually, this is the first thread he said it in, if you want to get technical.



also, my car has been spiking to 19 and holding 16 since day one.

my car was lucky to hold 14 stock..usually 13ish

that's weird. leaky valve perhaps? it seems to have been more of a problem on the 2007s than the 2008s

driver has a 2008 and he reported the same exact things i did. I even started a thread on 247 months back asking every1 to really report their boost reading not just go by what ever1 was saying, and no1 was really holding anything over 14 stock

Even if you are at 350whp, you should be able to get an 11.9, but I am just going based off the srt4. I think PTP mentioned that srt4 neons put down 390whp or so with his big wheel turbos and our cars make more power with bolt ons than neons and have more power stock. So it was just an assumption.

I know you like to validate your turbo in a lot of threads, and you do it in more threads than I have talked about bolt ons in. Fact is, I think your turbo didn't make as much power as most of us thought it would and I am 99.9% sure that big wheel turbos will make at least as much power as yours with the proper bolt ons.

No offense to you, but I was expecting 400whp from your setup, especially with the cost of it. Just be happy with your set up though, you don't need to always defend it, you have the most badass ms3 on any forums right now, and the fastest if you ever get out to the track. I would love to switch cars with you and/or have the budget you have. I just think for us more modest income people the big wheel makes more sense and will make just as much power as your setup. But your a trailblazer, I love your car.


And to the previous posters, I definately agree that you have to monitor a/f even with bolt ons, but I think it is possible that if you have the service bulletin performed that the car will not run too lean as I think I remember reading someone was .5 richer than before after the service bulletin regarding the cdfp was performed. I think that .5 would keep you withing a reasonable a/f ratio, but still, it should definately be monitored.

Anyways, it is an interesting discussion to have.

Hey Palerider, wouldn't you know, I just happened to be right and this thread was just posted up. This isn't even the biggest wheel John is going to be using. Check out the thread, he said it could be good for 370whp, and 350whp is completely reasonable.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...-pictures.html

Like I said, I think 11's will be easy with the big wheel. Of course you would need slicks because of all the power, but can you imagine the 3rd and 4th gear pulls, this is getting fun guys!

oh, I didn't realize his was an 08. that's weird. mine was fine. of course, I had a gauge on it in less than 200 miles and the forge on it in less than 1000... I didn't give it much of a chance to wear out.

lol. My side hurts...