![]() |
Eagle Rods Upgrade? So I found these Eagle rods online Eagle Connecting Rods - Mazdaspeed 3/6 and Evo X 4b11t | Modern Automotive Performance Posted Mar 24th 2011 so I don't know if this is a relatively new part. From the looks of it these seems to be a less expensive alternative to Pauter/carillo and can still hold decent power. This post says they are rated to 600whp which is plenty more than we are making right now on this platform and @ $350 a set they are at a good price point. Since we (MSF community) have really only seen bent rods and MAJOR destruction of the engine block this could very well be a less expensive alternative to a FULLY BUILT (read $$) engine. ~ $3000(for a inexpensive build) This might be especially useful for people that do not have power goals above 600whp. This could be a cheap solution to reducing/eliminating the needs for WoT above 3k rule we all seem to go by. What other parts would be needed to install these? Anyone know how good EAGLE is vs K1 (both forged H-Beam tho K1 does not spec a HP) as both have a similar price point. Since the TQ/RPM is not as linear in this turbo car (especially modded) is a TQ rating a better way to rate these things? IE we know that 400TQ @ 1500RPM is BAAAADDD but 400TQ and 5500 RPM maybe not so much. Maybe a linear derating across RPM is needed IE at redline 600HP= 5250/6800RPM=463TQ (maybe?) then ~450TQ across the RPM range is the rating of these suckers? IDK What else would be needed (not labor) to replace only the rods? Have we seen ANY piston failures? I think I read that it is possible to replace the rods with the engine still in the car... anyone done it? Last but not least. Are there any static tests that can be ran on pistons to determine strength for a comparison? Visual AID (graphs) of strength of OEM vs aftermarket rods would be a great benefit and selling tool to those looking at upgraded rods. I just want to go WoT from 1500 RPM and not worry about my engine shitting itself (is this possible?) I know people will say if built build it right (rods/pistons ARP studs etc) but that may be overkill for what I want and we have still only seen ROD failures... for the most part. At least nothing that will DESTROY the block. I will hide behind this for the ensuring calamity.:wall: |
People including myself have been using Eagle Hbeams in aircooled VWs with good success. They are good but not considered as good as Carrillos. Sorry I can't comment on K1's. Goodluck. |
this is good news. we are finally getting more options for building our motors. i'll possibly look into the eagle rods when the time comes. ohh and I have a question, what is the oil shedding thermal dispersant? |
apparently the K1s are rated at 700hp. they are the rods im using and will be looking to be in the 500hp range when finished. the K1 rods are being used by CP-E in all their mazdaspeed motor build programs. even as high as their 2.4L big motor builds, which is what sold me on these rods in the first place. i have yet to hear any bad from K1 rods but they are also still very new. i have heard a lot of good things about eagle rods as well. along as hearing bad things, but as any product i think your bound to find good and bad. |
I plan on using the eagle rods or the K1's Got a really good price on eagle/wiseco piston combo ! |
Eagle was basically the GO TO rod for honda B series motors back when I was building them. FYHN for mitigating flameage. |
What else is needed if you ONLY change out the rods? IE what is the cheapest you can change out the rods on the car minus the rods. |
If you only change the rods, you will need journal bearings. I suggest always changing the bearings when pulling rods. Plastic gauge is also a good idea if you want to be sure. Replacing rods means you will be pulling your head, so you will need a new head gasket as well. |
new head gasket you say? I wold suggest this!.................. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...gaskets-77875/ |
Quote:
|
Quote:
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
if this car is your daily, i would say stay with stock pistons. I have to warm up my car for like 10-15mins to let the pistons expand. Its kind of troublesome when you just want to head out somewhere quick. |
Are there any aftermarket pistons that will not need heating up? Or all they all pretty much prone to this heat up period... it would still be my DD. And so far noone has melted or damaged stock pistons too. |
Quote:
Theres a thread about forging the engine that explains this more. Honestly people are running 3-4xx hp with stock rods and pistons. I imagine that running a aftermarket rod thats better than stock with the stock piston should also get you there and then some. Remember build your engine to your powergoals and your needs. If this is going to be a DD and you know you only want 350hp...then go with the K1/Eagle rods and stock pistons and get a flipping DAMN GOOD TUNE! LOL Tunes for these cars are important, very important. Its why the stock block people can run all that HP and not pop, the tune! |
|
Why don't you just get the block&rods from cp-e? I wanna see how that holds up,I here alot of Bad about them lately and I was looking into getting one of these after I hit the 100k (if that) |
Quote:
|
im new here so dont be to harsh if i ask a lot of questions. for starters im really sketched at the idea of throwing a rod. and i just got my 07 ms3. any idea if having forged rods will do much help?! and how much for the rods and pistons?! |
Quote:
Quote:
|
Quote:
So don't blow your money on something that is unnecessary at this point, ESPECIALLY on stock turbo. And since you're new, I suggest you donate and do a lot of reading of the stickies, research, and searching before asking a lot of random questions. Chances are likely it's already been covered numerous times. |
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:00 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
vB.Sponsors