EGR Delete
 

Does anybody know where I can get a egr delete or what I need to buy to make one? I can't find any answers.

An egr delete is included in the intake cooler kit that PT-performance sells.
PT-Performance.com

Is there anyway to get it without having to purchase something else?

i bought an angle grinder... cutoff wheel and some little sheets of metal at home depot and made my own

Ya make your own. It was too easy.

I made the first one and still make them for members
I lost count but have made near 100 of them since 2007
PM me if you want one
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p..._/IMG_2227.jpg

don't forget the 1/2" NPT plug for the manifold side of the EGR piping when you remove it...

indeed, whoosh, do you have a plug for what mdogg is talking about?

nothing special. here you go.

Summit SUM-G1488B - Summit® Plugs – SummitRacing.com

does the egr delete throw cel's? i would think so, but had to ask.

It may but lke whoosh told me. The egr delete benefits far out weigh a cel

as of yesterday
I include the 1/2" npt plug with the EGR block off plates

3 kits shipping today :censored:

edit:
5 kits
word travels fast

what are the benefits exactly?

Usually cooler temps with most vehicles, not sure on anything directly related to the 2.3 though - Main question as stated above, any CEL's :)

Whoosh wrote a thread a thread awhile ago all about it. It prevents exhaust from going back into your intake manifold. There were some pics of sludge coming right out of the hole into the intake manifold. You can throw a cel but not Sure if all do

i bet i could read 100 a threads a threads

is that some kind of stoner circular logic?

spnkr wrote "a thread a thread" and i made a joke about reddit...here is the original joke - watcher comments on Got six weeks? Try the hundred push ups training program

their is a lot of information but nothing about CEL's...


DOES THE EGR REMOVAL THROW A CEL?????

most applications will see a P0401 (insufficient flow/EGR) CEL
which is expected since you are blocking the flow through the valve itself

at the moment, there is no ECU "trick" available to curb the CEL

the benefits of blocking off the soot that contaminates you intake mani and intake valves far outweighs the PITA CEL on the dash
plus you can reverse this mod and you can clear the CEL with any scan gauge available

Ok so there is an insufficent flow, but does having the CEL cause the car to run poorly?

look at my sig
my car ran great

there wasn't a day that went by that my car had less than 3-4 different CEL's
didn't affect anything

Sorry dude haha. typin on my phone

your car was using what for tuning? My car is using a cobb AP... from my experience, whenever my STI threw a CEL it sent the car into "Limp Mode" which pulled timing and limited boost to 8ish psi

If you car was tuned off of a piggy back then its going to override the effects of the CEL but for those of us that are tuned on cobb AP reflashes then we may experience the same limp mode symptoms...

any info from cobb AP guys?

thx for the info though whoosh... i agree... on a car without fuel to clean the top of the valves, the EGR is just going to cause grief down the road and rob power....

No it won't go into limp mode. It's just an exhaust thing. I had a bad cat cel and it was just annoying to see but didn't affect the car

good info... let me ask this...

The EGR system on our cars is controlled where and by what? I havent had a chance to look under my hood at the system, but im wondering if someone can create an EGR simulator for us

i read that egr is supposed to help with engine temps along with pollution control. so my guess is that when you egr delete temps are a bit higher which can lead to detonation.

nvm

it helps with engine temps by warming it up faster. It has nothing to do with keeping it cooler. When you start a cold engine, the ecu is dumping tons of fuel in to compensate for the cold fuel that doesnt evaporate right away. This helps emissions by burning fuel completely on cold start-ups. at a certain temp it stops recirculating.

im pretty sure this is true

gotta love 1-stop shopping! :banana:

Phillyb is a redditor? blows my mind

no actually. i'm not. i'm a memer...and that meme was fucking hilarious. that's the only reason i know wtf

Can I get a kit?

egr injects inhert gas into the combustion chamber, what does that inhert gas do...well since theres no o2 in it just burnt spent non usuable o2, it displaces the air coming in the combustion chamber giving your "more fuel" thus "cooling" the spent gases this does help with NOX thats the only reason the EGR is on cars, is for NOX, IMO i think this car has too much for emissions i don't believe its that dirty honestly as it has cam timing as well (another big kicker for NOX) which is why most cars don't have EGR's anymore in the import world (jap at least)

Yes this does help, yes it throws a CEL, no it won't hurt the reliability of the car, i have had mine plugged for quite some time, and like whoosh i have upwards of 4 codes on any given day.

The way the EGR detects flow is it looks for a drop on the in the EGR temp sensor, when its moving obviously temp changes thus feeding a different voltage back to the ECM.

With ATR i believe you can remove the ECM looking for this by deleting the logic from what i'm told, but the MIL will still be illuminated but if you pull the code nothing will be there.

Hope this answers a lot of your questions, feel free to PM me if you want more.

EDIT:

EGR really does nothing for warming the car up, just to lower NOX as i said before, as most of you probably do you start your car and let it idle for a little bit and warm up, well how would the EGR help that when niether recirc system purges @ idle being EGR and EVAP if they do you have an issue.....just thought i would throw that out there.

i spoke with cobb tuning and they said that the access tuner race software can delete the EGR code and get rid of that pesky check engine light forever

this has been said many times already
but thanks for the 10th confirmation

the CEL caused by the EGR delete kit can be cleared, deleted by ATR, or left alone / end result being - car runs the same, CEL affects nothing but a light

How about a link, location in ATR w/ instructions so we can do this?

No need to be a smartass, I searched a bunch of threads and none of them contained this info, hence why i had to do the research and am now posting it up.

Had the 10 other threads come up then I wouldnt of posted it.

Since this thread keeps getting bumped, hopefully it will help someone kind of new to the MZR platform like myself.
________________________

Mike,

here you go... if you bought an AP you can use it... here's the link so they can email it to you...
CobbTuning.com - AccessTUNER Race - BETA Release

call me lame but does anyone have pics of an install?

aaron did a write up on the egr. dane...
DANE, you wanna do a write up?
i just got the muther fucking bad ass whooooooooooooosh egr delete...btw, thanks whoosh, ninja is mad legit. came with fucking instructions too..gtfoutta here...
let's do it dane

go damn i fail at searching...
swear i tried.
yes phailly. lets.

ya i saw that one on the 6 club...
i was wondering if possibly you had one of where the 1/2 plug goes?
im sure ill be able to find it i just havent really looked yet.

You got directions with yours? Lucky! Mine was wrapped 6 times like a christmas present. FUckin tape lol

there were typed instructions...yeah...
maybe ron noticed who was dealing with and didn't give me any benefits of the doubt. lol, thanks whoosh.

dane, here's a pic from aaron's thread on where the 1/2 plug goes

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u...4485Medium.jpg

I was bored and made instructions the other day lol
all kits come with them now

the plug on the IM side should be temp
the right way to do it is hack off that entire EGR leg / tap and plug the hole or weld it shut (I have done both to members intakes)

whoosh can you pm me with a price please

BUt if you need to pass inspection like I do, welding up the hole is not such a good idea.

inspection?
emissions?

I see Whoosh is still the man. Nothing like helping the community out still. Been rockin mine for over a year now.

For you guys that have emissions and don't want to chop up the intake, another option is just replace the bolts in the EGR valve with a little bit longer ones and slip the block off in between the EGR valve and pipe. I ran mine that way until I swapped to the Whoosh IM.

your lame

you're***

You can turn it off in ATR

Do you have a pic of this? The welded version. I am interested in doing this.

Not really. Unless it was recently fixed, there is an issue in ATR where you can delete the code, but the CEL still comes on with no attached code. Last I heard it wasn't fixed yet.

Whoosh.

Please PM me with price.

tks,

here is a quick pic of Deadman's intake
the EGR leg is hacked and welded shut

best way IMO

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...eadmanIM-1.jpg

peace out

I got mines from whoosh! Thanks abunch whoosh!!!:icon16:

Pa does require an emmisions inspection so if you have a CEL you fail. however if you drive less than 5k miles your exempt and the light dosent matter. This isnt for all of PA just the more heavily populated areas pittsburgh, johnstown, harrisburg/lebanon, philly/delaware. you get the idea. cant really vouch for other states i only do inspectons in PA

Va inspection if the light is on it dosn't mean you fail, if its a trans code or something of that nature not effecting the SRT's then it dosn't matter, however if it effects the SRT's and the driveability of the car yes you fail. and sometimes it will fail if the light isn't on :O on a nissan the knock sensor dosn't click the MIL but a code is stored, so you fail. this only being 96 and up OBDII cars, OBDI cars are a totally different story.

It dosn't matter in Va how many miles you drive a year if you live in a county that requires emissions it must be done, a waiver can be placed into effect every two years, if your car is diagnosed and repaired by a emissions repair specialist (thats either a 2 month class or the opt out is your L1 cert from ASE) and those repairs must be documented w/ the virginia DEQ they are all researched and legit reciepts have to be submitted as well totalling i think 659 dollars for parts and labor, most repairs are under that but if you have a vehicle with multiple issues that its fix 2 or 3 things thats quite easy to do and waivers arn't given out very often and all of them are gone over and inspected, i have been a Va emissions inspector and repair specialist for 6 years now and i have yet to give out a waiver.

I spoke with cobb and they said they can delete the code in ATR... you may want to call them with the P code and ask them again just to be sure

That's what I said. It can delete the code, but the problem is people are getting CEL's still with no code now. Something isn't quite right and last I heard it wasn't fixed yet.

ahhh ... thanks for the info.

I had my intake ported by PT-Performance, and had them do an EGR delete and VCTS delete. But, at the time, I didn't understand the cel ramifications. And John of PT Performance gave me bad info. He said to just delete to code with my Dashhawk in the parking lot of the inspection station. Bad idea, the ECU reports "not ready" on the entire emissions system. Sucks! And since mine is welded, I'm screwed as far as reversing it to get it inspected.

I've thought of an idea that *might* work, but, its really iffy. I took it to the inspectionstation per John's idea, and it failed. But, they've done everything but the emissions and would just need to retest it. So, *maybe*, I could clear the code, drive 100-200 miles and never turn off the engine, go to the inpection place, and give it to them with the engine running. If they manage to accept it that way and never shut off the engine, that might do it.

if you gots yourself one of those ap's the new software alows you to disable the code """fo lyfe""

You'll have the code back for sure in 100-200 miles of driving. Mine comes on daily in 50 miles of driving. ATR can't fix it either right now, but the latest flash from Cobb took care of P0241. Cobb can fix the problem in flashes, but so far no one is successful in ATR. There is hope still. We just need it sooner.

Well, my experience in my drive to Louisiana, it seems it does take an engine cycle. Not two like John claimed. But one. I drove 150 miles, no CEL. Turned off engine, turned on engine, CEL came on. I did this both to and from Lousiana, so, it seems repeateable.

I can clear mine and drive 10 miles to work and it comes back on while driving. Sometimes I can go two days with no CEL. Not repeatable for me at all.

Okay. It is possible that I just got two similar results in a row that will be different the next time.

I'm thinking about routing the EGR to the exhaust.

That won't clear the alarm either. The alarm happens because the MAP sensor is supposed to see a change in manifold pressure when the EGR valve opens. It doesn't read a change and the ECM triggers the alarm. It's a truly heilnous CEL. Sorry man. I can't believe Cobb addressed the O2 sensor error, but not the EGR.

SHIT!

call/ e mail cobb and start to bother them about fixing a flash for the egr..I have an egr delte "kit" at home but dont wanna put it on till i get an inspection first...

I have a question please... If the oem egr system closes off once the car hits a certain temperature whats the real point of even doing the egr delete mod when the car actually deletes it automatically once the car warms up?????????????????? we dont even drive our cars hard until they r warmed up so i cant see the point. plus doesnt having the egr during a cold start help the engine run smooth and warm up faster????? am i missing something???? please advise!!! Thank you

tread lightly son or u might get groaned....:spammage:

im so confused.... i thought i asked some pretty reasonable questions,, whats up with that remark??? im only asking because i do not know and was hoping someone would be nice enough to answer my questions, anyone please....

Your questions have all been answered in several threads and in this one as well. That's why he gave you the warning. I was getting ready to click the groan myself and he gave you the warning so you got lucky.

Let me ask you two questions:
1. Is there any point in time ever that you want hot, full of smoot, exhaust gasses being routed into your intake manifold?
2. Have you seen the pics of how our intake manifolds look even after low miles thanks to the EGR and PCV system?

will this cure everyone's engine light problems when they delete the egr???? check this out, what if you leave the oem egr valve connected to the intake manifold without blocking it, and then rather than the other end of the egr system connecting to the exhaust, why not disconnect it from the exhaust so that it can only circulate fresh air back into our engine!!! this way the ecu will still think its working properly when the manifold pressure changes when the egr valve is open!!! what do you think of this idea????? BTW you would have to block the hole left over in the exhaust side rather than the inatake mani side and then just install a small breather filter on the line going to the EGR so it can only suck up filtered fresh air. will this work???

LOL

why don't you try it and let us know what happens =)

WTF is with the attitude of everyone on this website? I just joined the other day and have been harassed non stop! ive been building fast turbo cars for 16 years and im a master mechanic, i can tell that most of your are new to the "going fast game" and that u just listen to each others bullshit and make fun of people trying to find answers, when in fact most of you haven't got a clue with this shit. I will try this new reverse EGR delete idea i thought of and if it works i wont tell any of u ass holes because im not like u, geeeewizzz IM OUT!!!

I think you may be confused with the PCV valve... EGR connects to the intake manifold via a small steel pipe. The reason for deleting the EGR is because its a one-way street dumping sooty exhaust from the head -> into the Intake Manifold. The EGR delete essentially blocks those gasses from flowing back into the intake manifold, if you don't put a block off plate and remove the pipe you basically have an open hole in your head that will channel that exhaust into your engine bay... I guess if you were hardcore you could connect something from the head and pipe it into the exhaust which would prevent any low flow issues but I don't know how the ECU would take that.

I dont think your using enough question marks???????? And for "master mechanic" you dont know shit. If by "circulate fresh air back into our engine!!!" you mean create a giant vacuum/boost leak by all means go right ahead

the egr closes when you hit boost dumb ass! so no boost leak. at warm up, idle, and engine decell it will open, and that's fucking vacuum!!! so if the exhaust side of the egr valve was open with just a breather, it would only allow clean cool air in when your decelerating or at idle. BTW dont talk shit to anyone if your an idiot that thinks he knows it all because u read forums all day long, go get some real experience, get your hands dirty and actually learn how a fucking motor works!!!!!!! :fuckyou:

Who said it does that? Doesn't do that at all, as far as I know.

sorry for the confusing question , i was strictly talking about if you start your car cold and let it sit and warm up without driving it does the egr close after the car reaches a certain temp?, thats a better version of the question i was asking earlier.

No, it does not.

HMMMMM... if the egr does not close when your intake manifold has boost in it wouldn't that be a huge boost leak?, you would be adding 17-20psi into your exhaust system, thats why im pretty sure that on turbo charged cars the ecu tells the egr to close during boost and then opens again during deceleration, idle and stuff. Am i right or is there something im not aware of? please inform and thanks for all your responses

I got a better idea, let's just delete the shortblock and let the head recir fresh air, that way we'll keep all the carbon out of the exhaust. We can put a breather on the A/C to filter that air and add an oil catch can to the spark plug wires to prevent power surges. Just make sure you use the baffled kind or the those pesky surges will slip right past.

Now that will make some serious powa........lol

did i miss something or is there a reason everyone is busting this guys balls everytime he posts something? I know why everyone does it to TXspeed but i guess i missed the reasoning behind this assault. He seems pretty knowledgable to me about these types of things maybe we should try listening since our pcv and egr systems are so fucked and new ideas on how to fix stuff have to come from somewhere dont they?

LOL:wizard:

You asked about temp, if the EGR closed after it got to a certain temp. No, it doesn't Now you are asking a totally different question, does it close at boost. I think it does. But if your RPM is below the spooling RPM, then you are running in vacuum.

So thats perfect then, if the egr must close during boost to obviously prevent a boost leak, then my idea will work just fine. i will try hooking up my bad ass gynesyss scan tool to my car and watch the activity of the egr valve while in boost to prove whether or not my idea of adding a fresh air breather to the exhaust side of the factory egr system and then just blocking off the exhaust opening will work or not. This way whenever the egr opens only fresh air will enter our engines and we wont have to worry about throwing any codes, like the traditional way people have just been blocking off the egr system on the IM side of the egr causing egr flow codes and manifold pressure codes because the maps detects that the pressure doesn't change when the egr system is just blocked off like the way people have been deleting the egr system. Im pretty sure my way will work just like the factory egr system but slightly modified to add clean fresh air to the intake when the egr opens, plus this modification will be even easier to do! i will run my egr test later tonight and post the results.

I would like to know your results. The first time i saw you mention it I thought you had a good idea. Please dont leave us in the dark if you get the time to do this. Dont forget to plug your exhaust side:scratchchin:

Success!!! its official!! i data streamed and recorded the egr valve and this is what i found. the egr valve is completely variable and computer controled, meaning its not just open or closed, sometimes its only 25% open or 80% ect..., The EGR valve is completely variable depending on the engine load, vacuum, boost ect..... when i data logged the egr it was fully closed at idle ( of course or it would be a vacuum leak) the egr valve only opens during normal driving conditions, cruising at low vacuum, part throttle, deceleration ect, sometimes alot and sometime partially, but as soon as you start to get into boost it instantly closes off, (preventing boost leak) and will open up allittle between shifts and then instantly closes again when you hit the next gear!! So from the data i found out tonight about our factory EGR system it would be stupid to just block it off!! (maybe on an old car you could get away with this) but the ms3's egr system is very smart, this is why people who block off there egrs are having problems with engine lights and warm up's ect... because the ecu is expecting the pressure change when the valve opens and can also throw codes for egr low flow.

So its official i think the best way to modify our egr system is not by blocking or bypassing them but rather leave it alone and allow it to work like factory, the only difference is that u have got to modify the exhaust end of the oem egr valve and just completely remove it from the exhaust, block off the left over hole in the exhaust and then just add a simple breather filter to the pipe that u disconnected from the exhaust, make sure and bend it over or cut the pipe further away from the exhaust so that heat from the exhaust wont melt your breather filter. this modification will allow your computer to think that everything is still working properly with the egr system and will only allow fresh, clean uncontaminated air back inside your engine!!!!and trust me thats a good thing because the egr valve is open around 90% of driving, think how much cleaner your intake air charge will be whooo hoooo:439:

Any proof of this? Like logs or something?

i will try and print the info off my scan tool, its very interesting, i can datastream and record any aspect of the car. give me some time to figure it out

that seems to sound like a good idea...and pretty easy...


if it works then I will try and sell my egr delete "kit" to some doosh:popworm:

Ok here is solid proof of how our egr valves react under different driving conditions and especially under boost. i didnt have a male/male usb cord so i couldn't post the actual data from my scanner but i was able to take a picture and tried to label what was going the best i could, dont laugh LOL

http://i29.tinypic.com/2m2j9q8.jpg


as you can clearly see in this 6 second recording of my egr activity, under idle it fully closes and only when driving normal with no boost does it fluctuate and also between hard gear shifting it will crack open between shifts for split second. with this info its now safe to assume that my new clean air egr modification should work flawless and increase performance!! i will be doing this modification tomorrow hopefully i will try and do a simple write up with some pics too. also whenever i can find the right usb cord and can record and data stream, manifold pressure, egr position, rpms and intake temps before and after the mod to actually see if the fresh air is cooling the intake charge down some as compared to piping hot exhaust fumes. i will keep u informed :dance:

I'll bet you anything you can match that you won't be doing what you say

there is no EGR exhaust tube
the EGR valve is mounted directly to the drivers side of the cylinder head
there is a small cast path in the #4 exhaust port of the head that directs exhaust flow through your cylinder head which then passes through the EGR valve which flows to your intake manifold via the hard metal tube. The path in runner #4 is sealed by the large flat part of the exhaust manifold
the only way to stop the flow prior to the actual EGR valve is to remove the head and weld the path shut which is the ultimate way to go but blocking off the valve has the same end result minus removing the head and welding it

trying to run a breather prior to the EGR valve would equal a full time exhaust leak dip stick
again, unless you weld the path shut

deleting the EGR, deleting the VCTS, deleting vacuum lines, deleting solenoids here and there have never resulted in ANY issues regarding normal start up, idle, or any engine operation other than some may result in a CEL which I'd rather see vs the gunk the EGR dumps into the dirty DISI



looks like it's back to the drawing board

lol