aaron did a write up on the egr. dane...
DANE, you wanna do a write up?
i just got the muther fucking bad ass whooooooooooooosh egr delete...btw, thanks whoosh, ninja is mad legit. came with fucking instructions too..gtfoutta here...
let's do it dane

go damn i fail at searching...
swear i tried.
yes phailly. lets.

ya i saw that one on the 6 club...
i was wondering if possibly you had one of where the 1/2 plug goes?
im sure ill be able to find it i just havent really looked yet.

You got directions with yours? Lucky! Mine was wrapped 6 times like a christmas present. FUckin tape lol

there were typed instructions...yeah...
maybe ron noticed who was dealing with and didn't give me any benefits of the doubt. lol, thanks whoosh.

dane, here's a pic from aaron's thread on where the 1/2 plug goes

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u...4485Medium.jpg

I was bored and made instructions the other day lol
all kits come with them now

the plug on the IM side should be temp
the right way to do it is hack off that entire EGR leg / tap and plug the hole or weld it shut (I have done both to members intakes)

whoosh can you pm me with a price please

BUt if you need to pass inspection like I do, welding up the hole is not such a good idea.

inspection?
emissions?

I see Whoosh is still the man. Nothing like helping the community out still. Been rockin mine for over a year now.

For you guys that have emissions and don't want to chop up the intake, another option is just replace the bolts in the EGR valve with a little bit longer ones and slip the block off in between the EGR valve and pipe. I ran mine that way until I swapped to the Whoosh IM.

your lame

you're***

You can turn it off in ATR

Do you have a pic of this? The welded version. I am interested in doing this.

Not really. Unless it was recently fixed, there is an issue in ATR where you can delete the code, but the CEL still comes on with no attached code. Last I heard it wasn't fixed yet.

Whoosh.

Please PM me with price.

tks,

here is a quick pic of Deadman's intake
the EGR leg is hacked and welded shut

best way IMO

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...eadmanIM-1.jpg

peace out

I got mines from whoosh! Thanks abunch whoosh!!!:icon16:

Pa does require an emmisions inspection so if you have a CEL you fail. however if you drive less than 5k miles your exempt and the light dosent matter. This isnt for all of PA just the more heavily populated areas pittsburgh, johnstown, harrisburg/lebanon, philly/delaware. you get the idea. cant really vouch for other states i only do inspectons in PA

Va inspection if the light is on it dosn't mean you fail, if its a trans code or something of that nature not effecting the SRT's then it dosn't matter, however if it effects the SRT's and the driveability of the car yes you fail. and sometimes it will fail if the light isn't on :O on a nissan the knock sensor dosn't click the MIL but a code is stored, so you fail. this only being 96 and up OBDII cars, OBDI cars are a totally different story.

It dosn't matter in Va how many miles you drive a year if you live in a county that requires emissions it must be done, a waiver can be placed into effect every two years, if your car is diagnosed and repaired by a emissions repair specialist (thats either a 2 month class or the opt out is your L1 cert from ASE) and those repairs must be documented w/ the virginia DEQ they are all researched and legit reciepts have to be submitted as well totalling i think 659 dollars for parts and labor, most repairs are under that but if you have a vehicle with multiple issues that its fix 2 or 3 things thats quite easy to do and waivers arn't given out very often and all of them are gone over and inspected, i have been a Va emissions inspector and repair specialist for 6 years now and i have yet to give out a waiver.

I spoke with cobb and they said they can delete the code in ATR... you may want to call them with the P code and ask them again just to be sure

That's what I said. It can delete the code, but the problem is people are getting CEL's still with no code now. Something isn't quite right and last I heard it wasn't fixed yet.

ahhh ... thanks for the info.

I had my intake ported by PT-Performance, and had them do an EGR delete and VCTS delete. But, at the time, I didn't understand the cel ramifications. And John of PT Performance gave me bad info. He said to just delete to code with my Dashhawk in the parking lot of the inspection station. Bad idea, the ECU reports "not ready" on the entire emissions system. Sucks! And since mine is welded, I'm screwed as far as reversing it to get it inspected.

I've thought of an idea that *might* work, but, its really iffy. I took it to the inspectionstation per John's idea, and it failed. But, they've done everything but the emissions and would just need to retest it. So, *maybe*, I could clear the code, drive 100-200 miles and never turn off the engine, go to the inpection place, and give it to them with the engine running. If they manage to accept it that way and never shut off the engine, that might do it.

if you gots yourself one of those ap's the new software alows you to disable the code """fo lyfe""

You'll have the code back for sure in 100-200 miles of driving. Mine comes on daily in 50 miles of driving. ATR can't fix it either right now, but the latest flash from Cobb took care of P0241. Cobb can fix the problem in flashes, but so far no one is successful in ATR. There is hope still. We just need it sooner.

Well, my experience in my drive to Louisiana, it seems it does take an engine cycle. Not two like John claimed. But one. I drove 150 miles, no CEL. Turned off engine, turned on engine, CEL came on. I did this both to and from Lousiana, so, it seems repeateable.

I can clear mine and drive 10 miles to work and it comes back on while driving. Sometimes I can go two days with no CEL. Not repeatable for me at all.

Okay. It is possible that I just got two similar results in a row that will be different the next time.

I'm thinking about routing the EGR to the exhaust.

That won't clear the alarm either. The alarm happens because the MAP sensor is supposed to see a change in manifold pressure when the EGR valve opens. It doesn't read a change and the ECM triggers the alarm. It's a truly heilnous CEL. Sorry man. I can't believe Cobb addressed the O2 sensor error, but not the EGR.

SHIT!

call/ e mail cobb and start to bother them about fixing a flash for the egr..I have an egr delte "kit" at home but dont wanna put it on till i get an inspection first...

I have a question please... If the oem egr system closes off once the car hits a certain temperature whats the real point of even doing the egr delete mod when the car actually deletes it automatically once the car warms up?????????????????? we dont even drive our cars hard until they r warmed up so i cant see the point. plus doesnt having the egr during a cold start help the engine run smooth and warm up faster????? am i missing something???? please advise!!! Thank you

tread lightly son or u might get groaned....:spammage:

im so confused.... i thought i asked some pretty reasonable questions,, whats up with that remark??? im only asking because i do not know and was hoping someone would be nice enough to answer my questions, anyone please....

Your questions have all been answered in several threads and in this one as well. That's why he gave you the warning. I was getting ready to click the groan myself and he gave you the warning so you got lucky.

Let me ask you two questions:
1. Is there any point in time ever that you want hot, full of smoot, exhaust gasses being routed into your intake manifold?
2. Have you seen the pics of how our intake manifolds look even after low miles thanks to the EGR and PCV system?

will this cure everyone's engine light problems when they delete the egr???? check this out, what if you leave the oem egr valve connected to the intake manifold without blocking it, and then rather than the other end of the egr system connecting to the exhaust, why not disconnect it from the exhaust so that it can only circulate fresh air back into our engine!!! this way the ecu will still think its working properly when the manifold pressure changes when the egr valve is open!!! what do you think of this idea????? BTW you would have to block the hole left over in the exhaust side rather than the inatake mani side and then just install a small breather filter on the line going to the EGR so it can only suck up filtered fresh air. will this work???

LOL

why don't you try it and let us know what happens =)