Fucking boom... *Edits on first post*
 

So yea...the boom got me now. Pretty upset right now cuz it was the partial throttle shit too. Was in 2nd doin normal acceleration. Shifted a little above 4,000, went into 3rd and got on the throttle bit for normal acceleration then it popped and everything started shaking. Lost alot of power...pulled off to the side of the road and saw a oil trail behind me. Popped the hood and there was not much oil, except on the passenger side firewall. CEL was misfire in cylinder 1. Havnt got to look to much at the engine but I'm guessing cylinder 1 is wat blew.

So I'm wondering what some of the more budget friend options are. Im not looking to go fully built with a big turbo...just getting the car running again. I was thinking replacing the entire engine since Im pretty sure there is a hole in the block.

Im gonna start calling around to mazda and other car shops to see if I can get rough quotes...but I was wondering what you all have done/suggest.

***UPDATE***

Found the hole behind cylinder 1. seems to be about 1 inch wide...and 4 inches tall. Ill try to get pictures in a bit

What were your mods?

I'm pretty certain he doesn't want to disclose that tidbit of info at the moment..

Sorry to hear AF, that sux ass. I've got to get out before this shit happens to me. GL with everything.

I mean...idealy Id like something with stronger internals...because due to my situation I cant just sell the car after I have it working again. So Im gonna have to keep this car for a good couple years. And Im thinkin the other way to guard against this happening is strong internals.

hole in block means your in for a 6 k roller coaster if your gonna forge it.. Sorry this had to happen to you.

hopefully my motor blows before my warranty is up, im getting that bitch replaced then throwing in forged internals in it if i decide to keep the car...sorry for your loss OP

i hope this didnt happen with the downpipe i sold you =[

Maybe it was the drunk tune?

Maybe it was this

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...06/index2.html

Ya, if Mazda's watching this thread they've got a good idea of why it popped...

Sorry for your loss

mazda dont go searching forums before they warranty

I am thinking colder plugs and not having a oil catch can might be links between blowing engines. Where u running colder plugs and did you have a catch can ?

I have IVT22s...no catch can.

I had the baffle tray in though.

And no I didnt have the downpipe in yet...I planned on doing that this coming weekend lol.

And I dont think leaning out the AFR at WOT would make my motor pop at partial throttle. Maybe lol. Regardless...shit sucks. Its kinda sweet cuz its like fast and the furious shit...but still sucks lol

except the screen would read dangerz to the block!!!!!

Damn sorry to hear dude. Hopefully everything pans out for you.

temps are dropping, these threads will pop up weekly through the oct/nov/december months. Same shit, different year

hope i dont get the dreaded CEL soon...........................change engine light lol


and another one bites the dust....

Can you please explain why ? Serious question too.

And btw, I still think the stock tune is the safest way.

So you leaned it to mid 12s where you actually felt you were losing power ... did you monitor KR ... and then it seemed to blow thereafter. Is this too much of a coincidence or is there something missing from the story?

How many miles on the car?

SLS was also running leaner and recently blew.

Not that I'm drawing conclusions.

Are you going to tear it down and see what went wrong?

sorry bro i picke dup a cx 7 motors for 2gs,full motor and i payed 1200 to get it swaped.and i just got intake and catback,Hope everything work s out for u i been there

I had it leaned as far as 12.4...and I saw NO KR with meth. I put it back to 12.2 AFR and still didnt see any KR. I really don't think that had anything to do with it.

40k miles

I'm definatly going to look around. I had a buddy come out and we found the hole in the block...behind cylinder 1. He said he didnt feel any rod inside.

Funniest part was the splash guard was gone...

that means the rod probably shot out the block and blew off the splash guard lol (try to find some humor in the situation)

Can you remember anything odd about your car in the last day or so? Anything happen or anything seem out of place? Smoke? Did you drive it especially hard doing the meth testing?

When you blew, was the car cold or hot soaked? Had it just been sitting or after a long cruise? When it blew were you on flat ground or going uphill or downhill?

Good luck in finding a replacement motor.

Sorry for your loss man :(

I changed oil today and roatated tires. But i checked my oil levels 20 minutes after I first drove it after the change...and oil was fine. no leaks.

Car was warm...15 minutes worth of driving. A little uphill...no smoke...nothing out of ordinary.

Im a spirited driver...I like to zoom around here and there...but I barely ever got knock. There might be that freak 1.0-2.0 rarely. But other then that...I just had the "normal" PT knock of .3 and .7.

damn bro i am sorry to hear this and hope you get back on your feet and get to zoom zooming again.:phillyb:

Originally Posted by Laloosh
temps are dropping, these threads will pop up weekly through the oct/nov/december months. Same shit, different year

Wanna know my theory - when the weather is colder you start getting liquid in your oil catch can ... stuff I saw last winter and never had a drop all summer long until I noticed a little last night after temps have been cooling down.

There's something about the cooler weather that causes that shit to condense in your intake manifold and if you don't catch it, it can pool in the intake mani under the right circumstances (like long drives??) and then it all ends up in 1 of your cylinders and hydro-locks your motor.

Like has been said, severe knock damages the piston heads - a rod bends from either too much down force placed on it at the wrong time (like too much advanced timing) or from trying to compress a liquid that can't be compressed.

yeah theres been hardly anything in my catch cans this summer. winter months.. i will fill up a dixie cup

I throw the silicone de-humidifiers from my viagra containers in the occ.

sorry to hear!

I agree with the cold(er) weather boosting...with the cooler weather, the car's running great, but at what cost?

Ah don't break out with a scare what Loosh mentioned happens to alot of cars. Hell back in my cobalt days 4 guys plus me blew their motors in one night when the temps drops 40 degrees between the late after noon and midnight. Its a known fact our ECUs don't react well/quickly to changes in weather once modded out of stock spec. Hence why I preach now that at a minimum you should be getting retuned atleast 3 times of year if your tune is about making power. Granted I'm the no tune champ but a the weather changed I was always adjusting my boost at a minimum for the change in weather. Shit watch the "I haz strange cut" threads start poping up again shortly for all those guys with intakes and boost controllers or just intakes and top mounts.

You can use oil water separator. Or an AC de-humidifier. In case you don't have silicone bags because you don't need viagra like I do.

hmmmm...... i can agree with the cold weather thing. temps are dropping here and my car is acting a little "strange" now?

My plan was to go back to stock for winter driving anyways ... maybe I'll do it sooner then later :(

Well, when air temp drops, timing increases, to lean the car out. The computer does this to compensate for pig rich conditions. Unfortunately, if you dont dial down timing and boost, you will blow. Common in the boosted ford world, as probably every other platform as well.

Catch can isnt going to save this engine, neither will a BSD.

My theory is simple. Long term detonation deteriorates the rods, that low boost, low load, part throttle, is enough for the rod to let go. That little bit of lean condition at the o/c loop transition is enough to launch that rod. Being proactive and controlling knock from the get go, will save your ass, long term. Look at some of the threads here with pictures of bent rods, caught before the engine let go. A large percentage of these bent rods came from weeks of high knock levels. The after thought, was to put meth on the car to stop it, but the damage was already done.

All week I've been planning on changing to my winter map this weekend. Many of the 103 maps had Cobbs fuel cut fix and I haven't determined exactly how they defeated FC. My plan is to run a map with lower load targets and slightly richer across the board for fall and winter. This is something I've known I would have to do since ATR came out because of last winters rash of blow ups and FC problems. I'm fairly confident that if I continue to run with my current high load targets the motor won't make it through the winter. I don't want fuel cut any more. It definately doesn't feel like something that is good for the car. I think that maybe this is also when the quicker CL/OL transition table edits may be very useful.

makes sense Hal, I'm glad I have always been persistent about avoiding knock and monitoring it constantly... though I dont want to say this and then blow lol!

WHOA WHOA, what is the connection of colder plugs and going boom????


"I am thinking colder plugs and not having a oil catch can might be links between blowing engines. Where u running colder plugs and did you have a catch can ?"

Isn't the whole point of having a load based ecu to make it more consistant all year around? Even with the colder air, I would think it should adjust boost (lower it) to hit the same load target.

so if i just left the ecu and boost stock but just had either a sri or cai plus a catback exhaust ( planning on using only mazda accessories if i can for the new ms3) would i be ok during the winter or should i take those parts of.