<--- got screwed
 

So i decided on a ms3 09 pearl white with 25xxx miles for about 16xxx.. pretty much clean through and through no scratches, dents, anything.. only way you could tell it was used is from the mileage. Well i bought the car on the 17th of november. drove for 2 days then my clutch pedal decided to stick to the ground so i pumped it a few times and then it was all normal so i didnt think anything of it just a bubble in the line. Well 2 miles from home i was stoped at a light and my car decided not to go into 1st-6th gear would not go into first but grind 2-6th so i put it in neutral and pushed it to a empty lot. had the car towed and called the dealership the next day and told me it was going to cost 250$ to drop the tranny to see if the clutch pretty much "shattered" is what they are thinking what happened but wont know anything until the tech gets back monday. they said they are estimating 1400$ in fees:wtf: if it is not covered by warranty.. o and i bought the car from a nissan Dealership.

morale of the story is i bo ught a car thursday it broke a day and a half later and wondering if there is anything i can do to the nissan dealership for selling me a f***ed up car. if what is wrong with my car isnt covered under warranty....

Any ideas??
Thanks, Dustin

in massachusetts its called in the lemon law .....idk if they have that around there

The previous owner must have beat the shit out of it. Good luck with that broham.

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yeah bro... you SHOULDNT BE CHARGED SHITTTTTTTTTT 2 days later your clutch is fucked it aint you.

I got my car from a honda dealer with 16k in it but lucky me nothing has gone wrong.
i have no warranty anymore so whatever I do is my own prob now but this shit is nissans prob fuckin faggots.

also, my clutch pedal has gotten stuck on the floor 3 times and only recently.

first time was whenI raced a bolted challenger from a dig and launched at 6000 rpms...when I shifted to 2nd the clutch was stuck but i kept flooring it...3rd gear it popped out

now only if I rev past 7000 the pedal can kinda get stuck but thats if I been beating on my car for a while then take it a step further.

our clutchs are kinda weak and are not meant to rev past 7k and when you do it over heats the pressure plate and forks get stuck...

That initial 250 Diag fee is just your approval to do the work. If its covered under warranty, you pay nothing. If its not covered, someone has to pay the tech for the labor.

Take it back to the nissan dealer that sold you the car. They should have some sort of policy. especially since its only been two days.

lemon law should be a fed law...not state. so you shouldnt have to pay a thing...maybe a throw-out bearing issue. regardless you should have like 30 days after taking it home to get shit fixed for free

I feel like you have a good chance of getting the situation rectified at no cost. I mean, two days? There is no way you, the new owner of the vehicle, could completely fry a clutch within that time unless you were in some lot somewhere revving the hell out of the engine endlessly and riding the clutch (letting it grind, slip, whatever). Even at that point, you'd probably blow your motor as well.

You don't really have a choice but to agree. Let the car get fixed and deal with the money part later with a lawyer if needed.

If you signed a contract stating you bought the sled "As-Is" you'll have to eat the repair cost.

go back to where u bought it and raise hell....go there every day....talk to every manager until u get it taken care of

ya im going to raise hell and i didnt get a "as-is" it was under warranty.. but they might tell me that it was fine when they drove it and that somehow i broke the car in a day and a half and ima be like :bryce: pay me my money!! haha no but seriously the second i told them that a part of the down payment was going to go to the car if i do have to pay to get it fixed they were all over helping me then.. douches.. i hate dealerships

keep us posted. i dont think lemon law comes into effect unless its 3 times for the same issue. i could be wrong about that.

thats cool that the dealer is looking out for you on this.

He is only "looking out" cuz i told him if i have to pay 1400$ its coming out of what i owe him for the car

ah. i see. read this and you'll feel pretty good about your outcome. and seeing you were at the track when it happened, i'd say your real fortunate.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ses-fix-63806/

Well i hope everything goes well, I read that post and i was like sh!t I didnt even think to clearn out my wheelwells for tire.. lol i hope i dont have any, it only makes me nervous for 1 reason when i was at the track my wife said "Babe, what's that? O its just a peice of tire" ... :damnit:

push the clutch and see if the line has a bubble. it has happened a few times the line tears inside and just needs to be changed. just throwing it out there hoping it helps.

Skeet skeet skeet....

The MS3 has a steel hard line that runs to the slave cylinder... There isn't a soft (rubber) line to tear....

OP, check your slave cylinder and make sure there's no leaking fluid and that the plastic "guide"/"washer" the piston moves through isn't broken...

Let's all bow our heads and pray for my car to be covered under warranty.. they are taking the transmission down as we speak

Good luck dude. And if your dealer covers this, looks like I may be driving to your dealer for any work that should be warrentied

ya well i hope they do, ive heard great things from this and higly reccomended from tons of people but i guess we will see!:headbang:

Update:

So I just got off the phone with the Mazda dealership after they pulled the transmission apart. The clutch was in about 6 different peices. pretty much exploded. and I guess the mazda warranty only coveres 1 year/12000 miles so warranty is not going to cover it. The nissan dealership i took it took pretty much said they are not going to pay for it cuz "once it rolls off the curb its yours" and i still owe them 500$ for part of my downpayment i was going to pay them later..

The cost to repair the clutch is going to be roughly 1187$ when i just put down a good 3 grand down on this car that broke 1 1/2 days fucken later.. I dont have a car im in the military needing to commute to work daily which i have a loaner car for just until the 24th..

so no car pretty much broke from the 3 grand down payment, still owe the dealership 500 i was going to pay later//might have to pay almost 1200$ outa pocket for a clutch that went out a day and a half after i bought the fucken car// and to top it off.. i havea big move coming up because im moving my wife back to texas while i go in korea..

Morale of story im fucked and o ya im fucked.. if anyone has any ideas please help :angryfire:

Raise hell. The Nissan dealership, unless you had an As Is agreement (which you didn't) can't deny it just because you drove it off the lot. Try and get something from Mazda that says it was the result of months of bad driving or something and take it back to Nissan. See if you can find the previous owner, if they had any issues that Nissan didn't divulge to you, you can take it back to Nissan and say that they kept essential information from you regarding the vehicle's condition.

Don't give up. Keep going in and raising hell and talk to each and every manager you can, talk to them, their boss, their boss' boss and anyone and you'll get some result out of it.

1 and 1/2 days later is nissans prob not yours.

good luck dude i feel for ya, dont let that fail ruin the fun of the car for ya in the future.

send me back a few 18 yr old korean girls please?

i can get you about 300 girls:arms: for 1$ an hour

Dood they can't do that....

Let me know when your ready for a tune.

Your tune is ON ME...aka free

Hope is all works out.

dude fucking get a lawyer. yeah you'll still ahve to pay shit but if you sue the bitches for selling you a broke ass car it'll still come out to be cheaper than paying for the repairs. and report them to the Better Business Bureau (aka BBB) cause thats bullshit the Nissan dealership should be either paying for the repairs or repairing it themselves for free.

Yeah Lemon Laws don't cover used cars.. So you're screwed and you're going to have to end up paying for it. I have had this happen to me TWICE ALREADY.. which is why I refuse to buy used cars now and I don't care how stupid looking new cars get, I will only buy new cars now..

I suggest doing what everyone here says and get a lawyer, I should have done so but I was young and didn't have the money. I bought a 3000GT... less than 24 hours later the clutch was completely gone and giving it gas in any gear the car wouldn't move.. Bought a WRX and it threw a rod in a week.

if it really is just a clutch, don't pay the dealer. if you can't do it yourself, find a reliable independent mechanic. they'll do it for (i'm guessing) about $200. maybe more since it's FWD, i don't know. but all you do is buy the part and give it to 'em. they do the work. it's a beautiful thing.

just make sure you find a RELIABLE mechanic.

ya fuck the dealer for not covering the transmission, OH WAIT you took it to the track and were obviously pounding the piss out of it.. GOTTA PAY 2 PLAY..

sucks that it happened 2 days after getting the car though.. The dealer SHOULD still eat the cost.. I bought mine pre-owned from a FORD dealer and they had to cover everything for 90 days and if they couldnt do the work they had to send it to mazda. Did you atleast grab an extended warranty?

oh and I could see them not covering the clutch as it is a wear part.. that would be like them covering tires lol.

Just doesnt sound right...bring the car back...you dont want it..lol because i believe in mass if something goes wrong in the first few days/ a month you can bring it back... leave a note saying your problem now lol

what about 30 day buyer remorse.

Shift at 6K and check out BadFish6's 6k launch in the NATOR GA Dragon Run thread.... 3rd page i think.... kaboooommmm

link me thread please

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ain-run-63427/

you really could have used the search on that one

Maybe someone can explain this to me, since I have clearly missed something, but...

Isn't the car covered by a bumper to bumper 3 year/36k mile warranty? How would Mazda not be responsible for the repair of a transmission problem, unless the original factory warranty was voided for whatever reason?

because MNA is the suck and will try to get out of paying for warranty work any way they can

I would keep fighting it if you have the time to. If it looks like you're going to end up footing the bill in the end though, get an aftermarket clutch; preferably:

ACT Street Clutch

They're unfortunately on nation wide back order from ACT till mid-late December. That unit is the best bang for your buck IMO. If you can't wait, a SPEC Stage 1 would prob be the next best choice. Doesn't include the flywheel or pilot bearing though which the ACT kit does.

Exactly..........I was waiting for someone to say this. I swear every vehicle manufactuar has the 3 year/36k bumper to bumper...and your car has 25k..so you we be still under that protection. They would have to prove that either one of your aftermarket mods caused a prab, or driver neg. Other than that, you dont pay shit...I dont give a fuck what assclown tries to say, the dime is not on you, and you need to make sure that nothing comes out of your pocket in this matter.

Well I've been through the whole fiasco with both compaines so here it is guys

1. Yes it is 3/36000 but the cluth is a wear and tear item so its 1/12000 miles

2.lemon law has to be a existing prob that has to of happened 4 times

3.once u buy a used vehicle its on u with anything that's not under warranty unless u can prove they knew about it and just didn't tell u when they knew about it.

4. All in all u just have to hope that the dealer is a good one and helps u if not pay it all knowing how long uve had the car

5. I just talked to the managers boss' boss and pretty much told him what happened and he was like well we will pay for it all and I was like "like ALL of it?" Then he was like "well unless u want to help pay.." and I was like yeaaaaaa... I'm good..

Morale of story: the dealer ended up hooking me up and paying for it all.. now I get to get a test pipe and a hks exhaust wooooo:icon16:

well, i hope you use your manners and say "thank you."

fml roy your the man thanks for looking out:):biggthumpup: i iz a newb

good to hear.. glad its getting fixed at dealers cost..

Awesome news bro!

my "thanks you" you mean i pulled the cock out and was like wapachhhh *thats my sound when i hit something* :joke:hah ya i def did say thanks

That's fucking amazing! Glad to hear it. Way to have good luck with buying a used car..

Hell ya I guess I've had enough bad luck it was time for some good luck.. so now I'm tryong to figure out what I should get mod wise for about 800$ since I sold my amp/subwoofer and tv to raise money to pay for this clutch they fixed for free haha..

SRI and Cobb AP and... RMM if that fits the budget. Seriously though, you'll be very very happy with just an SRI and Cobb AP for a long time with no issues.. When you go stage 2 is when things start getting a little more complicated, but it's not too bad.

SRI = $120
Cobb AP = $600
RMM = $99

Slightly over the budget.. but I think you'll make do. Haha.

I have a cai and rmm lol what's a cobb ap??

AP = access port. it's a tuning device. you can get 'em used for <$475. that way you can try to tune you car, fuck it up, blow a rod out the block, and take it to the dealer and say "i can haz warranty engine?"

Ah, well.. perfect haha. Cobb Accessport. From my experience, the stage 1 maps Cobb provides works super well with not much modification 'cept for a MAF calibration after you get it. After I got it, I was good for almost a year before modding more haha. Holds 17-18PSI all the way till redline lol.

Well shoot, if you've already got the cai, get a test pipe and the ap.

Thats exactly what I was thinking, only thing with the ap is im not very savy with all that tuning shit so my luck ill fucken blow my car up in a day n a half.. haha, just like i did my clutch in the first post.. lol:wtf:

Eh, don't be a panzee. I didn't know a single thing about tuning when I got my AP.. I didn't even know what people were talking about when they spoke of "calibrating my maf", but the AP is very easy to use.. and the maps cobb gives you are pretty conservative so you shouldn't blow.. it's when you don't know what you're doing and you try and tune your shit and then blow.

+1

OTS (off the shelf) maps are plenty enough for you until you start reading up and learning more about how to use the tuning software yourself to make changes...

good to hear its going to work out for you. i sure hope i can find a dealer in the Charlotte area that is worth a damn

Reminds me of when my homie's Magnum R/T with extended warranty dropped a valve after being parked a week (he was out). Dealer was not going to do shit (came up with some lame excuse) until I walked in with Magnuson-Moss printed out. The conversation went like this:

Dealer: Uhh what's in the manila envelope? Lawsuite papers? ::giggle::
Me: No, Magnuson-Moss act, in print.
Dealer: Uhhhh what's that?
Me: It's what going to win that lawsuite if you don't fix the car.


Yeah the car was fixed, for free - new engine and all.

What's a lawsuite?
A motel for shysters?

congrats on getting it payed for. definitely bogus that you even had to go through all of that to get it done.

nice im glad the dealership paid for the new clutch! Im about to buy used myself, a little more hesitant now. :15: