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MazdaSpeed 3 - Engine, Transmission & Driveline Discussion of engine, tranny and drivelines.


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 Old 08-26-2008, 06:23 PM   #1
 
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Default Head Porting Potential

Here are some pics of stock MS3 head ports. I a not a head porting guru by any means but the ports look promising for flow improvement. Notice the 2 different size intake ports. Even though the intake valves are the same size the ports are significantly different. I can only assume they do this to create a swirling effect (in the combustion chamber) from the different port velocities. The smaller intake port has a alot of restriction just under the valve area. The exhaust ports look much smoother but there is still room for improvement. The thing that puzzles me is why they decide to keep the intake ports seperate all the way back inside the intake manifold. Doe anyone have insight on this? Does anyone have good pics of the intake manifold ports?
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 Old 08-26-2008, 06:29 PM   #2
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The head has a lot of meat to work with. I personally would go with oversized ferrera valves and a 3 angle on the head with bronze valve guides. It would be nice if there was a larger market to develop cams which would take advantage of the flow. I wouldnt say you would gain a huge a amount of power doing the porting alone, but it will def show gains. I would also port patch the intake as well.
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 Old 08-27-2008, 06:25 AM   #3
 
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ahh brings me back memories of my mustang gained like x2 hp with ported heads intakes and cam
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 Old 08-27-2008, 07:25 AM   #4
 
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Thats an interesting head. I've never seen a head with a notch in between the 2 exhaust valves. not sure what the purpose of that is. Lots of sharp edges in there as well, which a lot of people speculate is where pre-ignition starts. Most of them are going to be directly in the injector spray, so maybe they get cooled enough by the incoming fuel to not present an issue. Looks like the factory has already done some work to deshroud the spark plug. Id be curious to see the spray pattern of the injector and exactly how it's timed in relation to the intake lobes of the cam. Not sure how much room there is in there for oversized intake valves.

I'd love to hear some thoughts on what DI heads like vs traditional heads.

It looks like the injector sits in the water jacket. I know there was a thread talking about cooling the fuel as a possible source of power. looks like any thoughts of that are probably moot. Not sure how much heat transfer there is though, so maybe not. Just something to think about.

If you took that divider out between the intake ports, you'd have a huge port and lower velocity. I guess thats a trade off with the stock turbo, but if you're doing major headwork, you aren't running the factory snail. Hard to say. Id guess some heads are going to have to be ruined in the name of science to find the sweet spot.
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 Old 10-26-2008, 11:55 PM   #5
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I remember someone saying that Cosworth actually lost power doing a head porting job. But I don't how that statement would be true.
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 Old 10-27-2008, 04:25 AM   #6
 
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Default

I've already look into this and have talked to a couple people who have look into this. Their are minimul gains to be had from porting the head. for what it cost its not worth it.
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 Old 10-27-2008, 06:46 AM   #7
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for those non-n00bs is this a pretty clean head for the miles on it? or does it show alot of our PCV problems?

P.S. what ARE the miles on it and did u have a CC?
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 Old 10-27-2008, 01:17 PM   #8
 
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It has 5000 miles. I did clean it up before the pictures were taken. The intake valves had alot of buildup for only 5K. The amount of buildup I saw looked similar to non DI engines with over 40K. Please define CC.
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 Old 10-27-2008, 01:24 PM   #9
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catch can
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 Old 10-27-2008, 02:13 PM   #10
 
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I picked this head up from ebay. I dont know what he was running.
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 Old 11-24-2008, 10:04 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by ms3guy22 View Post
I've already look into this and have talked to a couple people who have look into this. Their are minimul gains to be had from porting the head. for what it cost its not worth it.
What about larger vavles and raduis cut the seats? I guess if your going to do a head you might as well do it properly???

I have not posted nor will I till I have flow and numbers to show you guys. I don't think I would be doing an upgrad to just port and polish. Makes me wonder what would happen if you were to take the quench and open it up a bit, something like a true hemi chamber? Just more for you to think about.
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 Old 11-25-2008, 08:40 AM   #12
 
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Corpus Speed6 has done ALOT of research into this. He's building a head to acomodate his cams, and has ALOT of info. Intake valves are as large as can fit, and are made of SS. Exhaust valves can only go 1mm larger, and are the weakest part of the valve train. They can only handle a little over 20psi, where-as the intake valves are pretty much good to go. He's adjusting the lift a tad, reusing the intake valves, changing the exhaust valves, and changing all the springs and stems IIRC. Oh, and the PNP. I think he's just a week or so away from having it ready to install.
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 Old 11-25-2008, 01:04 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by ATE BALLER View Post
Corpus Speed6 has done ALOT of research into this. He's building a head to acomodate his cams, and has ALOT of info. Intake valves are as large as can fit, and are made of SS. Exhaust valves can only go 1mm larger, and are the weakest part of the valve train. They can only handle a little over 20psi, where-as the intake valves are pretty much good to go. He's adjusting the lift a tad, reusing the intake valves, changing the exhaust valves, and changing all the springs and stems IIRC. Oh, and the PNP. I think he's just a week or so away from having it ready to install.
I am keeping the oem intake valves, although I have in my possession 2 aftermarket intake valves, and the part numbers for both. The only difference is that the after market ones are back cut differently and the stems are under cut so they should flow slightly better, I just dont think the extra flow is worth ~$400. There is no weight savings.

I am also keeping the factory springs, locks, and retainers, they are good to 8500rpm+ and *should* be able to handle the increased lift I am going to be running. I will not know they actual answer to that question until I have it assembled and I can get a coil bind number.

I am in the process of replacing the factory 6mm exhaust guides with 5.5mm guides since the new valves have 5.5mm stems. Once this is done and I have confirmed that the guides and new valves fit and work, then I can purchase a full set and start the port, bowl, and seat work since the new guides will not be aligned exactly the same as the factory ones.

Once all that is done and it is assembled I can check the installed height of the top of the stem and order lifter buckets, which might end up being custom, but hopefully oem.

Once I get those in I can do the final assembley and final measurements and then finally install it.

I might be done by the end of january. Maybe.

The cams are finished and in my hands just waiting for all this to be finished. I have had them for about two months now.
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 Old 11-25-2008, 05:27 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by ATE BALLER View Post
Corpus Speed6 has done ALOT of research into this. He's building a head to acomodate his cams, and has ALOT of info. Intake valves are as large as can fit, and are made of SS. Exhaust valves can only go 1mm larger, and are the weakest part of the valve train. They can only handle a little over 20psi, where-as the intake valves are pretty much good to go. He's adjusting the lift a tad, reusing the intake valves, changing the exhaust valves, and changing all the springs and stems IIRC. Oh, and the PNP. I think he's just a week or so away from having it ready to install.
Any work done to the quench area? Maybe some work in getting those sharp edges cut down to keep the hot spots at bay?
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 Old 11-25-2008, 05:29 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
I am keeping the oem intake valves, although I have in my possession 2 aftermarket intake valves, and the part numbers for both. The only difference is that the after market ones are back cut differently and the stems are under cut so they should flow slightly better, I just dont think the extra flow is worth ~$400. There is no weight savings.

I am also keeping the factory springs, locks, and retainers, they are good to 8500rpm+ and *should* be able to handle the increased lift I am going to be running. I will not know they actual answer to that question until I have it assembled and I can get a coil bind number.

I am in the process of replacing the factory 6mm exhaust guides with 5.5mm guides since the new valves have 5.5mm stems. Once this is done and I have confirmed that the guides and new valves fit and work, then I can purchase a full set and start the port, bowl, and seat work since the new guides will not be aligned exactly the same as the factory ones.

Once all that is done and it is assembled I can check the installed height of the top of the stem and order lifter buckets, which might end up being custom, but hopefully oem.

Once I get those in I can do the final assembley and final measurements and then finally install it.

I might be done by the end of january. Maybe.

The cams are finished and in my hands just waiting for all this to be finished. I have had them for about two months now.
, lucky you on the cams.
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