high ects?
 

ok, i think i've fixed my leaking coolant hose.
finally.
i'll know tomorrow morning. i have a slight, terrible, horrible feeling that it might not be fixed.
when i floor it, the ects rise. sometimes to 220...sometimes higher.
what temps you see when you floor it through two gears or whatever.
please let me know.

Subbing to find the thread easier when I post logs tomorrow.

i appreciate it man

i would assume it would stay about the same as cruising.
maybe im not 100% on this but...
isnt the water pump driven by the crank?
wouldnt the crank be spinning faster, spinning the pump faster?

but you dont want it to spin too fast because then the coolant cant transfer heat enough from the radiator.
thats why its pressurized?
take logs. my guess is that it should NOT go up significantly, if any.

any one who knows and is not just speculating, please school me up on shit i dont know


EDIT: you has blown head gasket yet?

my ECT's stay at 180f or so after a 3rd - 4th pull. Only times my ECT's go higher than 180f is when i'm stuck in traffic, along with my BATs

i've no experience with head gaskets dane, but wouldn't i be blowing white smoke?

philly, with a blown headgasket you would not necessarily be blowing white smoke out, although that is one huge sign. the headgasket could be blown between an oil passage and water jacket causing water to be lost into your oil. if you take a look at your oil cap there should not be condensation or a build up of a thick greyish colored oil on it. also your radiator cap should not look a similar way like there is oil in the water.

went down to the car last night and saw moisture from the same spot it was leaking at.
floored it and ects went up to like 223, then came back down. they only climb when i floored it.
this morning, i checked for moisture before turning the car on...none.
look at the reservoir and there was nothing in it.
i didn't have enough coolant in the car last night to warrant a good test.
i filled it up this morning, made some 3rd gear pulls, and temps appeared normal. didn't go above 190 the entire drive to work this morning.
let's see if this holds up. the biggest test will be when i get the car and drive home from work.
moisture?
leaks?
i fucking hope not.

Infos:

Green bar denotes WOT. I think the reasoning for the temperature dropping again is because the water in the radiator was still cool when it swapped out with the water in the motor.

I hit various levels of boost on my way in to work, and light boosting did not alter my temps much, if at all.

The first WOT pull was third to 5600 RPM and 4th to 6k. The temperatures peak at 190, which is roughly maintained for the rest of the drive (city traffic).

thanks enki

If you had a leak and now your at 220's u may have an air bubble. Or your thermostat is going out. You should be in the 180-190s.

i hope the leak is fixed.
i've thought about thermostat. if i'm still having issues, that'll be the next thing to change.
how does one purge the coolant system to remove air bubbles?
cause that's definitely something i've thought about and has been mentioned to me.

I thought it was purged automagically with that tank. On my car one end of the tank is open to atmosphere.

I truly dunno though.

Lemme clarify... on the cap of my coolant tank, one hose is open to atmosphere.

One method that "might work" is taking the coolant cap off and revving the engine to 2500-3000 rpm for 3-4 minutes looking for air bubbles to come out then doing it again. If you do that 2-3 times in a row it should get any air bubbles out but theres no guarantee. Ive heard of people having to put cars up on ramps to force air bubbles out.

yeah, jake mentioned something similar to me joe. thanks.
dustin, i've never seen that shit before.
on the tank?

remove the cap and jack up the passenger side of the car and run it a few minutes. If that doesnt work i would suspect the thermostat.
Didnt i read a thread before that you use all water and no coolant?

yeah.

Do us a favor philly. Flush your system and refill using Mazda FL22 coolant and see if that does anything.

If it works we'll know that Mazda wasn't lying about super special anti freeze.

Just a thought. You've been fucking around with water and water wetter with no success, so try the mazda shit.

They make an antifreeze that mixes with all types. at least put that in for now

have never used water wetter. i really don't think water vs coolant is the issue.
again, i might have it solved as of right now, just need to go check the car after work.
will report back.
water was low last night, so that could explain the temps.

hey philly b if u want to test ur thermostat just take it off the car and boil water and put the thermostat in the water if it opens up then ur thermostat is ok but if after u take it out of the water and it still has water in it then the thermostat is bad thats how i found out mine was bad and once i put the new thermostat my temps are at about 180 and 190 but before my temps were about 220 and the fan on the car would stay on for a long time after the car was turned off. When you turn ur car off try and listen to the fan and see if it turns off within a min if it doesnt then almost 98% sure your thermostat is bad. But do both test, and if u need one i got mine at autozone for about $25 but i had to get the one for the 07 cause they didnt have the one for the 08 yet.

philly heres the fsm way to bleed the cooling system or purge whatever...

11.
Bleed the air by following the procedures below. At this time, be careful of the coolant temperature to prevent overheating.
Note
• If the accelerator pedal is depressed continuously for a specified time, the engine speed may decrease to the idle speed. This is due to the fuel cut control operation, which prevents overheating, and it does not indicate a malfunction.
(1) Run the engine at 2,500 rpm for 2-3 min, 2 times.
(2)
Run the engine at 3,000 rpm for 5 s, then idle.
(3)
Repeat steps (1), (2) twice.
12.
Stop the engine, and inspect the coolant level after the coolant temperature decreases (water temperature gauge indicates 'C' or less).
13.
Check the coolant level.
• If it is low, refill the coolant into the coolant reserve tank up to the MAX mark on the tank.
14. Inspect for engine coolant leakage. (See 01-12A-4 ENGINE COOLANT LEAKAGE INSPECTION[LF, L3].)

and step 9 says put the cap on for reference....

thanks for that!!!!
both of you

No problem man hope that helps and let me know if that fixes the problem. If you need a visual they have a how to on you tube about how to check the thermostat.

i did a log from 40-160mph and my coolant temp got up to the highest 192

Yup, auto purge. And i'll post up a pic of my tank cap later if you still want me to. But if you go look at yours, i bet it's identical. 2 silicon hoses come off it, and one is vta.

oh fuck dustin...
there are two coming off the reservoir, one looks like it goes toward the radiator...i thought it went to the radiator, but it might vent.
fucking weird.
the other one goes to the block. just replaced that shit yesterday.

It vents lol. I just found out last weekend.

wait...you use 100% water? that boils at the temps you're seeing...

can you be the car of the month when your car is in like 100 pieces?

Just axing?

car pieces of the month.

O I C

he who's car is in the most pieces wins......interesting.

i don't even have half the fucking pieces anymore.
no undertray.
no fender liners.
no weight by the rsb.
no front plastic piece on the bottom...the one that connects the bumper to the undertray...
umm....

damn where in the hell do you live where you can just bust out 160mph? lol

don't listen to brian

THANK FUCKING GOD!!!!!!!!!!
leak is fixed.
wasn't able to go wot though on the drive home, so i'll have to report back on ects.
drive home was great, didn't go above 190. and it's fucking hot out.

so there was still a leak in the tube? where exactly was it still leaking?

the radiator hose that goes from the block to the radiator.
small hole i guess.
leak seems to be fixed.

Im sure DJ will "lose" some of his pieces during his build. The factory puts in way more peices than are needed anyway...LOL

so anyway...
back to high ects.
i floored it a few times this morning on the way to work.
temps stay down while i'm flooring it which is good.
but they jump up when i let off the throttle and climb for a few seconds.
i saw 214 this morning...i'm not too worried about that, but can anyone verify that their ects are or are not doing the same?